Independents

Designer’s Diary: My Journey to ‘Sustainable’ Jewelry

IndependentsOct 08, 2019

Designer’s Diary: My Journey to ‘Sustainable’ Jewelry

Vittoria d’Aste-Surcouf provides a CliffsNotes version of the work she did to ensure she was using “sustainable” and “ethically sourced” elements in her pieces.

2019_Vittoria_columnist.jpg
A custom fine jewelry designer, Vittoria d’Aste-Surcouf, has a diverse background in art history, events and public relations, jewelry fabrication, sales and fine jewelry rendering. She can be reached at info@vasbijoux.com.

Most of us today are trying to find ways to design and fabricate our collections with our eyes on responsibility and ethics, yet the amount of information available on these topics can be overwhelming.

In today’s column, I’m going to share the wealth of knowledge I’ve acquired on my own journey toward producing “sustainable” jewelry. I chronicled my findings and created a CliffsNotes version of my journey, a blueprint of sorts, so we can all work in unison towards creating jewelry that not only looks good but “does good” as well.

There to guide me at the beginning of my journey were Jennifer Dawes, of Jennifer Dawes Design, and Toby Pomeroy, of Toby Pomeroy Design Studio, two heavyweights in the field.

Mr. Pomeroy offered an eye-opening account of why his Mercury-Free Mining Challenge is so important for the lives of artisanal gold miners, and Ms. Dawes sagely advised starting with some soul-searching to identify which topics are important to you. This will be your starting point.

“Everybody is going to have their own personal journey on their way to responsibility and ethics within their field,” she said, “but you are going to have different things that resonate with you, what’s important to you.”

For example, is transparency of the journey from mine to market of utmost importance to you, or are you satisfied to stay in the “recycled” realm of gemstones and precious metals?

Power in Numbers
If you read my last column you know I am a great proponent of community. There is power in numbers, and an excellent place to join with fellow like-minded jewelers is Ethical Metalsmiths.

Geared toward designers and small businesses, the group is an amazing place to start as they are an open, encouraging activist community of small to mid-sized jewelry businesses.

You are encouraged to join even if your sole contribution towards sustainability is merely that of interest.

Along with the many perks they offer, Ethical Metalsmiths is getting ready to launch an online index of vetted—through an interview and self-assessment process—natural colored gemstone suppliers and will expand from there to include other types of vendors as well as designers and retailers.

The page is up and can be viewed at EthicalMetalsmiths.org/Suppliers. The names of the first vetted suppliers will be added soon.

Education
I was fortunate to also speak with Jared Holstein of Perpetuum Jewels who, with the help of his colleagues, has

compiled a set of definitions for terms such as “ethical,” “recycled,” “Fairmined” and Fairtrade” called the Jewelry Glossary Project.

This project was launched to increase transparency throughout the jewelry supply chain. It does so by building consensus on the definitions of key terms and creates accountability for those using them.

I was surprised to learn the terms we are familiar with seeing or using are not exactly what they seem. For example, there is a big difference between writing fair trade (two words) and writing Fairtrade (one word). Who knew? I certainly did not.

The definitions are important for you to know because, while you are seeking out vendors, it is important to know who is using these terms properly. Words associated with sustainability can be thrown around loosely; being able to comb through the list to find vendors that are truly committed to the cause is vital.

Also, if you really want to get ambitious and further your knowledge on sustainability in the industry you can attend the Chicago Responsible Jewelry Conference, coming up later this month. There, international leaders bring initiatives, data, ideas, products, plans, as well as opportunities to get involved and to network.
RELATED CONTENT: Here’s What’s on Tap for Chicago Responsibility Conf. 2019
Precious Metals
On my journey to becoming a “sustainable” jewelry designer, I compiled a select list of vendors for metals and gemstones, which I mention in detail below. I would like to add, however, that this list does not represent the only vendors in the jewelry industry working with sustainable materials.

Let’s start by looking at precious metals.

As I mentioned earlier, there is a difference between recycled metal, certified recycled metal and metal that is being mined by artisanal miners.

It is important to know that not all refineries are third-party certified to sell recycled gold. In order to truly be certified, a third-party auditor, like SCS Global Services, must come in and conduct audits of the business over a certain period of time.

Third-Party Certified Recycled Precious Metal Suppliers
Hoover & Strong, Stuller and Umicore are SCS Global Services-certified for certain product lines within their collections. When placing orders for recycled metals, it is very important to clarify that the items you are purchasing are indeed the ones that are SCS compliant.

Hoover & Strong: the product line name is “Harmony.” You can purchase: casting grain, mill products, mountings, findings, and gold, silver, platinum and palladium bullion.

Stuller: the product line name is “Refined Karats.” You can purchase: all precious metal-items that are produced in-house. Not all their findings are produced in-house, so it’s important to clarify this.

Umicore: the product line name is “Butterfly.” You can purchase: gold casting grain, sheet, wire and findings.

If you’ve decided supporting artisanal miners is a priority, then start with the following companies that have obtained third-party certification.

Third-Party Certified Artisanal Precious Metal Suppliers
Hoover & Strong: the product line names are “Harmony Fairmined,” “Harmony Fairtrade” and “Harmony Fair Congo Gold,” and you can purchase casting grain, sheet, wire and tubing.

If you need more information on which artisanal mining source you wish to support, you can read the comparison chart to help you choose which option best fits your needs.

If you need to have your casting outsourced, you can rely on the following companies to apply due diligence in only using recycled gold in their casting process. Both Hoover & Strong and Stuller will cast your pieces in recycled gold, silver, platinum and palladium.

Natural Diamonds and Colored Gemstones
I am going to break this section into two parts: post-consumer recycled natural diamonds and gemstones (think gemstones pulled out of an estate ring) and mine-to-market colored gemstones.

The suppliers that specialize in mine-to-market gemstones actually visit the mines, dealing directly with artisanal miners. They do this to ensure the provenance of the gemstones as well as give back to the artisanal mining community by donating safer mining equipment and ensuring there is clean water, vocational training facilities, better schools for the miners’ children and much more.

Vendors Supplying Post-Consumer Recycled Natural Diamonds and Gemstones
Perpetuum Jewels: The company is SCS Global-certified as a responsible source for 100 percent post-consumer recycled gemstones and operate in full transparency of their inventory’s origins.

Vendors Supplying Mine-to-Market Colored Gemstones
Anza Gems: Founder Monica Stephenson sources her loose gemstones directly from the mines in East Africa, specializing in garnet, tourmaline, sapphire, spinel, aquamarine and others. Currently, 10 percent of sales go back into mining communities where the gems are sourced. This is done primarily through education and other initiatives to improve lives there.

Perpetuum Jewels: Along with their post-consumer recycled diamonds and colored gems, the company also supplies mine-to-market gemstones and have developed wonderful partnerships with mines located in the United States.

Roger Dery Gem Design: Mr. Dery is a gem cutter with decades of experience who travels directly to the mines in East Africa to procure his rough. He has made a long-term commitment to invest in the miners and their families by providing for their basic needs and supporting education and vocational training.

Leave It to the Pros
The above lists were a DIY effort on my part; however, you can always hire Levin Sources to guide you through the process.

For smaller jewelers, Levin offers a hand-holding approach, demystifying the process of becoming a credible ethical jeweler.

This includes anything from creating tailor-made policies, preparing you for certification to comply with Farimined, Fairtrade, the CRAFT Code or the Responsible Jewelry Council standards or developing a customer storytelling strategy.

This helps jewelers develop the knowledge to properly back up and communicate their responsible sourcing practices and values.

In closing, I’d like to extend gratitude to Toby Pomeroy, Jennifer Dawes and Jared Holstein for their knowledge, insights and thoughtful advice on this column.

Any comments are welcome below.

A custom fine jewelry designer, Vittoria d'Aste-Surcouf, has a diverse background in art history, events and public relations, jewelry fabrication, sales and fine jewelry rendering. She currently serves as CEO of her own jewelry company, VAS Bijoux. She also designs part-time for Gleim the Jeweler. She can be reached at info@vasbijoux.com.
Brecken Branstratoris the senior editor, gemstones at National Jeweler, covering sourcing, pricing and other developments in the colored stone sector.

The Latest

Selena Gomez and Benny Blanco Wedding, Jacob & Co. Watch
TrendsOct 03, 2025
Selena Gomez, Benny Blanco Tie the Knot Wearing Diamonds, White Metals

Gomez’s jewelry included Tiffany & Co. drop-style earrings while Blanco stacked diamonds from Jacob & Co. on his wrist.

HRD Antwerp CEO Paul De Wachter
GradingOct 03, 2025
Grading Lab HRD Antwerp Names New CEO

Diamond industry banking veteran Paul De Wachter will take on the role in January 2026.

Taylor Swift Kallati sapphire ring
TrendsOct 03, 2025
Piece of the Week: Kallati’s Pink Sapphire Ring

Taylor Swift flaunts an Elizabeth Taylor-esque gemstone in promo for her new album, “The Life of a Showgirl.”

gia-edu main image.png
Brought to you by
A Brilliant Future Is Here

Online education from GIA experts.

Boucheron Quatre Sand Collection
CollectionsOct 02, 2025
Boucheron Debuts Cuffs Crafted With 3D-Printed Sand

Its “Quantre Sand” capsule was made using a 3D sand printing technique borrowed from the automotive and aeronautics industries.

Weekly QuizOct 02, 2025
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Stock image of crime scene tape
CrimeOct 02, 2025
$1M in Jewelry Stolen in Northern California Smash and Grab

Four individuals have been charged in the “takeover-style” robbery of Heller Jewelers last month, and additional charges are expected.

Neil Lane and Boucheron bow tie brooch
MajorsOct 02, 2025
Neil Lane Jewelry Exhibition Coming to Toledo Museum of Art

“Radiance and Reverie” will showcase more than 150 jewels from Lane’s personal collection by Tiffany & Co., Cartier, and more.

reDollar-fine-jewelry-department.jpg
Brought to you by
reDollar.com Is Rolling Out the Next Level Jewelry, Diamond & Watch Consignment Program

With their unmatched services and low fees, reDollar.com is challenging some big names in the online consignment world.

Just Jules opal necklace
TrendsOct 02, 2025
Amanda’s Style File: October’s Colorful Show

The month’s birthstones, tourmaline and opal, complement the palette of autumn.

Peter Smith National Jeweler columnist
ColumnistsOct 01, 2025
Peter Smith: Why Vendor Success Starts With Self-Reflection

Smith shares the importance of looking at your company with openness and honesty to identify opportunities you may be missing.

Plah Black Swan Earrings
EditorsOct 01, 2025
Playing Favorites: The Best Jewelry From Vicenzaoro

Associate Editor Natalie Francisco visited Italy to spot jewelry trends at the September Vicenzaoro show and share her top finds.

People shopping in a mall
SurveysOct 01, 2025
Consumer Confidence Hits 5-Month Low in September

Respondents were concerned about job availability and rising prices.

Gemfields rough emeralds
SourcingOct 01, 2025
Gemfields’ H1 Revenue Falls 47%

Its latest interim financials revealed a challenging first half due in part to production troubles at its mines.

Pandora executives Alexander Lacik and Berta de Pablos-Barbier
MajorsSep 30, 2025
Pandora CEO to Retire in 2026, Hand Reins to CMO

Alexander Lacik has led Pandora since 2019. Berta de Pablos-Barbier will succeed him, the first woman to head the company.

Gavel near stacks of books
CrimeSep 30, 2025
2 Suspects Charged in $300K Sleight-of-Hand Jewelry Store Scam

Two men allegedly used counterfeit bills to purchase luxury watches and jewelry from a North Carolina jeweler.

Billie Eilish and Finneas O’Connell John Hardy Lovestruck Collection
CollectionsSep 30, 2025
Billie Eilish, Finneas Partner with John Hardy

The “Lovestruck” collection, designed with the Academy and Grammy award-winning siblings, is the brand’s first lab-grown diamond offering.

Kwait White and Yellow Gold Diamond Earrings
TrendsSep 29, 2025
Amanda’s Style File: Ear Focus

Move over neck mess, the ear story is the way to make a layering statement today.

Mark Henry Leandra Medine Cohen
IndependentsSep 29, 2025
Mark Henry Jewelry to Debut in Canada

The New York-based brand is set to launch a limited-time offering for the holiday season at Holt Renfrew in Toronto.

Overnight volume 7 bridal catalog
MajorsSep 29, 2025
Overnight Releases New Bridal Catalog

The “Volume 7” bridal catalog features best-selling engagement rings, trending styles, and a new section highlighting anniversary bands.

Hand holding holiday shopping bags
SurveysSep 26, 2025
Online Shopping, Influencers to Drive Holiday Spending, Mastercard Says

Holiday sales growth is expected to slow as consumers grapple with inflation and tariff-related uncertainty.

Austin Shines Jewelry Award
Events & AwardsSep 26, 2025
Winners of Austin Jewelry Design Contest Announced

Jamie Turner Designs is among the winners of the local “Austin Shines” contest, hosted by Eliza Page, a jewelry store in Austin, Texas.

Kwit Square Signet Pinky Ring in Red and Azure
TrendsSep 26, 2025
Piece of the Week: Kwit Jewelry’s Square Signet Pinky Ring

The red and azure colorway is one of many fun enamel pairings offered, bringing whimsy to the classic style of a monogramed signet ring.

Jewelers of America Fly In
Policies & IssuesSep 25, 2025
JA CEO Provides Tariff Update Following Annual Fly-In

A trade deal with Switzerland seems probable, but reaching an agreement with India remains a challenge, David Bonaparte said.

Entrance to Jwaneng diamond mine in Botswana
SourcingSep 25, 2025
2 African Countries Aim to Take Stake in De Beers

Botswana’s president said his country wants a controlling share, while Angola envisions multiple countries holding minority stakes.

Kira Jewels Growing Rowing Machines
Lab-GrownSep 25, 2025
Kira Jewels Expands Lab-Grown Diamond Production

The manufacturer is adding 1,400 chemical vapor deposition (CVD) reactors to its growing facility in India.

Alex Moss SoHo store
IndependentsSep 25, 2025
Alex Moss’ New Flagship Brings Bold Jewels to SoHo

The jeweler to the stars has worked with Drake, A$AP Rocky, Tyler the Creator, and other celebrities.

Matthew Wilson, Kavin Kulamavalava, and a Elmasolvex VA
WatchesSep 25, 2025
Wilson & Son Jewelers Donates to the Horological Society of New York

The Scarsdale, New York-based jeweler donated a professional-grade watch cleaning machine.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy