Grading

SSEF Figured Out How Old The ‘Ana Maria Pearl’ Is

GradingMay 14, 2019

SSEF Figured Out How Old The ‘Ana Maria Pearl’ Is

The Swiss gem lab has, for the first time, radiocarbon age-dated a historic natural pearl.

20190514_Ana-Maria-pearl-SSEF.jpg
SSEF age-dated the “Ana Maria Pearl,” set as a detachable drop on this carved emerald and diamond brooch with an Audemars Piguet watch on the reverse, which the lab said is a first for a historic natural pearl.

Basel, Switzerland—The Swiss Gemmological Institute SSEF said it has, for the first time, radiocarbon age-dated a historic natural pearl.

The Swiss lab said it used carbon-14 to determine the approximate formation date for the “Ana Maria Pearl,” which is set to go up for sale at Christie’s May 15 jewelry auction in Geneva.

Once owned by Ana María de Sevilla y Villanueva, XIV Marquise of Camarasa (1828-1861), the pearl is presumed to have been discovered during the Spanish conquest of the Americas in the 16th century.

According to SSEF, data from the radiocarbon analysis puts the formation age for the Ana Maria Pearl between the 16th and mid-17th century, which aligns with its documented historic provenance.

Jean-Marc Lunel, senior jewelry expert at Christie’s Geneva, said the SSEF’s age-dating was “a critical addition to the extensive work” the auction house does to document provenance and origin of exceptional items before sale.

SSEF offers the carbon-14 research and services in partnership with the Ion Beam Physics Laboratory at leading university ETH Zurich.

“We are honored to be able to provide additional scientific evidence to the historic provenance of this important natural pearl,” SSEF Director Michael S. Krzemnicki said. “We are in the process of further developing radiocarbon analysis and other scientific techniques to verify the historic provenance of antique jewelry and iconic natural pearls.”

The natural saltwater “Ana Maria Pearl” is a slightly baroque drop shape, weighs 30.24 carats and is set as a detachable drop on a carved emerald and diamond brooch that has an Audemars Piguet watch from the 1960s on the reverse side.

The piece is expected to sell for between $800,000 and $1.2 million when it hits the auction block Wednesday at Christie’s “Magnificent Jewels” sale.

The jewelry auction also features an emerald and diamond sautoir that can be traced to Catherine the Great of Russia and an aquamarine and diamond Fabergé tiara given by a German royal to his bride in the early 1900s.

Brecken Branstratoris the senior editor, gemstones at National Jeweler, covering sourcing, pricing and other developments in the colored stone sector.

The Latest

Anne Hathaway and Rose Byrne
EditorsMar 16, 2026
2026 Oscars Jewelry: One Necklace After Another

Natalie Francisco rounds up the top Oscars jewels, including Rose Byrne’s Taffin necklace with a more than 20-carat yellow-brown diamond.

Tag Heuer CEO Béatrice Goasglas
WatchesMar 16, 2026
TAG Heuer Has a New CEO

Béatrice Goasglas has been with TAG Heuer since 2018. She is the first woman to head the 166-year-old, LVMH-owned watch brand.

Ben Bridge Jeweler Honolulu boutique
IndependentsMar 16, 2026
Ben Bridge Debuts New Honolulu Boutique

The store features the first in-store build for the jeweler’s in-house “Bella Ponte” bridal brand.

TopImageCrop.jpg
Brought to you by
Is This You? Every Jeweler Has This Problem; We Have the Solution.

Every jeweler faces the same challenge: helping customers protect what they love. Here’s the solution designed for today’s jewelry business.

Bonhams fine jewelry Paris
AuctionsMar 16, 2026
Bonhams Paris To Offer Antique, Signed Jewels

The live fine jewelry auction will take place later this week, showcasing antique pieces, rare gemstones, and signed jewels.

Weekly QuizMar 12, 2026
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Silvia Furmanovich Horse Mane Earrings, Cece Jewellery Underworld Triptych Necklace, Almasika Invictus Flower Brooch
CollectionsMar 13, 2026
A Trio of Jewels from the 3 Gem Award Nominees for Jewelry Design

Our Pieces of the Week honor the 2026 nominees for the Gem Award for Jewelry Design, Silvia Furmanovich, Cece Fein-Hughes, and Catherine Sarr.

Vera Wang
WatchesMar 13, 2026
Citizen, Vera Wang to Launch Watch Collection

The 24-piece watch collection is set to debut in spring 2027.

dca-laptop.jpg
Brought to you by
DCA Enters a New Chapter in Jewelry Education

With refreshed branding, a new website, updated courses, and a pathway for growth, DCA is dedicated to supporting retail staff development.

Andrea Pooler
SourcingMar 13, 2026
Andrea Pooler Joins Third-Generation Diamond Company as COO

Pooler, who has more than 25 years’ experience in jewelry, is now chief operating officer of Modani Jewels, Soham Diamonds, and SNJ Creations.

24 Karat Club banquet
MajorsMar 13, 2026
24 Karat Club of New York’s Banquet to Return to Waldorf Astoria

The reopening of the Waldorf Astoria means a homecoming for the industry group’s annual event, which will take place Saturday.

Zoë Kravitz in Jessica McCormack’s Planetary Necklace
CollectionsMar 12, 2026
Jessica McCormack Sends Gold, Gemstones Into ‘Orbit’

McCormack looked to the 19th century’s “golden age” of astronomy when designing her new celestial-themed collection.

Johnny Nelson Wins David Yurman Gem Award Grant Graphic
Events & AwardsMar 12, 2026
Johnny Nelson Wins David Yurman Gem Awards Grant

Nelson will be honored as the inaugural grant winner at the Gem Awards gala on Friday.

David Berdugo
TechnologyMar 12, 2026
Caratwise Launches, Names Former Signet Exec CEO

The new smart design software allows jewelers to configure, price, and confirm a custom engagement ring in real time for in-store customers.

Woman working at bruting machine, seal at new Grandview Klein factory in South Africa
SourcingMar 12, 2026
Grandview Klein Opens New Factory in South Africa

The 10,000-square-foot diamond manufacturing facility officially opened in late February and employs 50 people.

MJSA Education Foundation logo
Events & AwardsMar 12, 2026
MJSA ‘Future of Jewelry Making’ Scholarship Applications Open

The MJSA Education Foundation’s scholarships support students pursuing jewelry careers.

26.36 carat round brilliant cut
AuctionsMar 11, 2026
‘Spectacular’ 26-Carat Diamond Going Up for Auction in London

The largest white diamond to come to market in the U.K. in more than a decade, the VVS1, I-color stone is expected to top $1 million.

Cast Compass pendant
TechnologyMar 11, 2026
Cast Jewelry’s Rachel Skelly on Coming Back Online Only

Skelly shares her plans for reimagining the fine jewelry retailer she re-acquired after it faltered last year.

Pyrrha The Space Between Campaign
CollectionsMar 11, 2026
Pyrrha Highlights ‘The Space Between’ In New Collection

The collection takes inspiration from the emotional space between people, moments, and experiences.

Charles London, Mayer and Fran Udell, Mark and Candy Udell
IndependentsMar 11, 2026
From the Jazz Age to the Information Age: London Jewelers Turns 100

In 2026, the jewelry retailer is celebrating a milestone only a small percentage of family-owned businesses survive to see.

Virginia jewelers at charity ball
IndependentsMar 11, 2026
Virginia Jewelers Raise Nearly $30K for Children’s Hospital

The group of jewelers held a jewelry raffle in support of the Children’s Hospital of Richmond at VCU.

Stack of gold bangles on denim
FinancialsMar 10, 2026
Signet Jewelers’ Q4 Sales Fall Flat

The jewelry giant released preliminary results for the fourth quarter and full year on Monday, with final results slated to come next week.

Saks Fifth Avenue door sign
MajorsMar 10, 2026
Saks Global to Close 15 More Stores

The retailer also gave an update on its vendor partnerships.

Julianne Moore
TrendsMar 10, 2026
Messika Names Julianne Moore as Ambassador

The award-winning actress is the “epitome of modern allure,” the brand said.

Sorellina Large Bloom Inlay Pendant
CollectionsMar 10, 2026
Gemstones ‘Bloom’ in Sorellina’s New Collection

The “Bloom” collection draws from the flower power movement of the 1960s and ‘70s with inlay pendants offered in eight colorways.

Constellations Over the Sedona
Events & AwardsMar 10, 2026
Diamond-Studded Painting Shines at RJO Foundation Auction

The unique piece was one of the custom works offered at the foundation's recent silent art auction, which garnered nearly $15,000 in total.

Jake Gyllenhaal as Bulgari Brand Ambassador
TrendsMar 09, 2026
Jake Gyllenhaal Is Bulgari’s Latest Ambassador

Bulgari named Gyllenhaal as its brand ambassador for his embodiment of artistic depth, intellectual curiosity, and warmth.

TJS scholarship winners 2026
Events & AwardsMar 09, 2026
TJS Announces 2026 Scholarship Winners

Awards were given to four students, one apprentice, and an emerging jeweler.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy