Editors

Notes on a Plenary

EditorsDec 20, 2017

Notes on a Plenary

Our editor-in-chief recaps the recent Kimberley Process meeting and looks at where the process goes from here.

2017_KP-logo.jpg

The biggest decision that came out of the Kimberley Process’s biggest meeting of the year was this: All participants voted to form an Ad Hoc Committee on Review and Reform, which will begin looking at ways to evolve the process next year.

The committee is chaired by India, with Angola as vice chair, and, according to a copy of the administrative decision on its creation, will present its conclusions and any draft decisions at next year’s plenary.

The biggest news was this: Impact, the NGO formerly known as PAC, decided to leave the process, citing a lack of progress on pressing issues--specifically, meaningful reform in a process it says is becoming “irrelevant”--and an increasingly hostile environment for members of the KP’s Civil Society Coalition.

It is the second NGO to exit the process, following the 2011 departure of Global Witness.

Impact’s decision to leave the process did not entirely shock me (and it didn’t shock many who are directly involved with the KP either, I’m told); it has been at least 12 months in the making.

Last year, Impact, along with the other 10 members of the Civil Society Coalition, boycotted the process over their objections to the chairmanship of the United Arab Emirates.

This year, Impact returned but made it clear what they wanted: reform in a reform year. (The KP is set up so that it, in theory, it overhauls itself every five years; the last reform cycle was from 2011 to 2013.)

Impact Executive Director Joanne Lebert told me in a post-plenary interview that they wanted to see the KP change the definition of what constitutes a “conflict” diamond to include diamonds tied to abuses by governments and/or security firms, not just those used by rebel groups to overthrow governments.

There also needs to be a strengthening of the KP’s internal controls, and more timely completion and release of reports from review missions, which are currently delayed by as much as two to three years, she said.

What they got was the formation of “another working group,” she said, meaning the aforementioned Ad Hoc Committee on Review and Reform.

During closing remarks Dec. 14 at the plenary in Brisbane, Lebert told KP members that her organization, in simplest terms, was done with the Kimberley Process, though it will remain engaged on the issues facing diamond-producing countries.

“They’re just making themselves irrelevant,” she said in the interview. “(The KP) keeps saying, ‘we’ve eliminated

conflict diamonds’ when, in fact, their definition is obsolete.”

Lebert and Impact are not alone in their view that the KP needs to change.

Following Martin Rapaport’s controversial proclamation earlier this year that the process had become “bullshit,” JCK published two editorials, one from Brad Brooks-Rubin and one from Ian Smillie, in which the authors called for reform.

And the fact that all KP member nations agreed to at least put together a reform committee tells us that even the process itself has come around to the fact that it’s due for a major overhaul.

But the question is: Will the KP be able to get everybody on the same page when it comes to reform and, if so, how many years will it take?

For those who are not aware, the KP operates under a consensus decision-making model. This dictates that all member countries have to agree to pass anything, which, on the flip side, means it takes only one country’s disapproval to block a proposal.

In his editorial in JCK, Smillie, a former research coordinator who worked on conflict diamond issues with PAC (now Impact) and is now president of the Canadian Association for the Study of International Development, talked about the difficulty of getting reform done under the consensus model, which he described as “unworkable.” He wrote that there will not be any “serious evolution” for the KP until that changes.

Lebert described the model to me as “instrumental in blocking any kind of meaningful reform,” while one individual who is a major player in the diamond industry called it “a recipe for not getting anything done.”

But a couple of other individuals with whom I spoke on this issue pointed out that the KP is not the only international mechanism that works this way.

Robert Owen-Jones, who represented chair nation Australia in the process this year, told me in an email that consensus is the “accepted model” in intergovernmental arrangements, and said he couldn’t imagine another system for the KP given that implementation rests on national legislation.

“Consensus does not mean you have to agree with the result in the final plenary, just not object,” he wrote. “Negotiators often say that the best result is where everyone is equally unhappy.”

James Evans Lombe, who attended the KP as the CEO of the U.S. Jewelry Council and a member of the World Diamond Council (WDC) delegation, also pointed out that the KP is not alone in its consensus approach.

He pointed to the World Trade Organization (WTO), the intergovernmental organization that regulates trade, as another example of a body that functions this way.

“It is a failing, but it is also a strength,” he said of the consensus model. “When something is agreed, no one can backtrack … it just means the KP can only go as fast as the slowest runner.

“Our issue, as an industry, is that consumers are moving far faster than governments. Luckily, most governments are now beginning to realize that.”

After touching base with Owen-Jones and Lombe, I circled back around to Smillie to get his thoughts on their viewpoints.

In addition to his role with the Canadian Association, Smillie is chair of the Diamond Development Initiative and attended the plenary to talk about the issues facing the artisanal mining sector.

He said while he understands the need for consensus on larger issues that involve money or governmental changes, he doesn’t understand why the process needs 100 percent agreement to make changes to improve its basic functions.

The monitoring system, for example, is weak and needs to be made more effective. He also expressed the same frustration that Lebert did over the long delays in submission of reports. Those need to be done in three months rather than two years, he said.

“What they (the KP participants) all should understand and appreciate is all the countries that are members benefit in one way or another from the diamond industry,” Smillie said. “It really is an industry worth protecting, but the Kimberley Process is not doing that. It’s failing.”

A few other notes from the plenary:
* The permanent secretariat, which the UAE tried to take credit for last year, still hasn’t been officially voted through. Yes, there is now consensus that the process needs one, but thorny issues remain, including who will pay for it and where it will be based. I am told that the UAE has said it will fund the permanent secretariat but under the condition that it be headquartered there, while the African nations would like to see it in Africa and the WDC is pushing for a neutral location. In a similar vein, the WDC is totally supportive of a DDI proposal that the KP has a conflict of interest rule.

The reform committee has the resolution of these issues surrounding the permanent secretariat on its to-do list for 2018.

* As agreed upon in Dubai last year, the European Union will take over as chair of the KP in 2018 with India serving as vice chair. (The countries served together as co-vice chairs this year.)

* The KP intersessional is set to take place in Antwerp while the scheduled location for the plenary is Brussels.
Michelle Graffis the editor-in-chief at National Jeweler, directing the publication’s coverage both online and in print.

The Latest

US Supreme Court building
Policies & IssuesFeb 20, 2026
Supreme Court Rules Against Most of President Trump’s Tariffs

In a 6-3 ruling, the court said the president exceeded his authority when imposing sweeping tariffs under IEEPA.

Headshot of National Jeweler columnist Peter Smith
ColumnistsFeb 20, 2026
Peter Smith: Happiness, Cavemen, and Jewelry Sales

Smith encourages salespeople to ask customers questions that elicit the release of oxytocin, the brain’s “feel-good” chemical.

Jewelers Vigilance Committee logo
MajorsFeb 20, 2026
Jewelers Vigilance Committee Names Julie Yoakum Board Chair

JVC also announced the election of five new board members.

MJSA Apprenticeship Guide
Brought to you by
The MJSA Mentor & Apprenticeship Program: Attracting & Training the Next Generation of Bench Jewelers

Launched in 2023, the program will help the passing of knowledge between generations and alleviate the shortage of bench jewelers.

Boucheron Faisceaux Brooch
CollectionsFeb 20, 2026
Boucheron’s ‘Faisceaux’ Brooch Heads to V&A Museum

The brooch, our Piece of the Week, shows the chromatic spectrum through a holographic coating on rock crystal.

Weekly QuizFeb 19, 2026
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Ann Weaver Bailey, also known as “Mama Ann”
IndependentsFeb 19, 2026
Bailey’s Fine Jewelry Co-Founder ‘Mama Ann’ Bailey Dies at 100

Raised in an orphanage, Bailey was 18 when she met her husband, Clyde. They opened their North Carolina jewelry store in 1948.

Material Good Boston Location Interior Rendering
IndependentsFeb 19, 2026
Material Good Opens Third Location

Material Good is celebrating its 10th anniversary as it opens its new store in the Back Bay neighborhood of Boston.

JamAlert 1872x1052.png
Brought to you by
How Jewelers Can Fight Back Against Cell Jammers

Criminals are using cell jammers to disable alarms, but new technology like JamAlert™ can stop them.

Original Miami Beach Antique Show sign
Events & AwardsFeb 19, 2026
The Original Miami Beach Antique Show Returns in March

The show will be held March 26-30 at the Miami Beach Convention Center.

Joanna Carson jewelry auction
AuctionsFeb 18, 2026
Joanna Carson’s Jewels Head to Auction

The estate of the model, philanthropist, and ex-wife of Johnny Carson has signed statement jewels up for sale at John Moran Auctioneers.

My Next Question podcast with Marion Fasel and Natalie Francisco
PodcastsFeb 18, 2026
Episode 2: Jewelry Trends & Does the Red Carpet Matter?

Are arm bands poised to make a comeback? Has red-carpet jewelry become boring? Find out on the second episode of the “My Next Question” podcast.

Select Jewelry Graziella Air
MajorsFeb 18, 2026
Select Jewelry Inks Agreement to Distribute Lightweight Gold Jewelry

It will lead distribution in North America for Graziella Braccialini's new gold pieces, which it said are 50 percent lighter.

Community for Ethical Jewelry Logo
Policies & IssuesFeb 18, 2026
Community for Ethical Jewelry Looks for Executive Director

The organization is seeking a new executive director to lead it into its next phase of strategic growth and industry influence.

DCA colored gemstone course on laptop
Events & AwardsFeb 18, 2026
DCA to Host Gemstone Selling Education Session at IJO Event

The nonprofit will present a live, two-hour introductory course on building confidence when selling colored gemstones.

Cece Jewellery Traveller’s Tale Ring
TrendsFeb 17, 2026
A Bit of Jewelry for the Year of the Horse

Western wear continues to trend in the Year of the Fire Horse and along with it, horse and horseshoe motifs in jewelry.

Anza gems
SourcingFeb 17, 2026
Colored Gemstone Experts Talk Tariffs, Trends in Tucson

Although the market is robust, tariffs and precious metal prices are impacting the industry, Stuart Robertson and Brecken Branstrator said.

Dr. George Rossman
GradingFeb 17, 2026
Dr. George Rossman, Former GIA Governor, Dies at 81

Rossman, who advised GIA for more than 50 years, is remembered for his passion and dedication to the field of gemology.

Nest doorbell camera footage of suspect in Nancy Guthrie abduction
CrimeFeb 13, 2026
JSA Offering $10K Reward in Nancy Guthrie Case

Guthrie, the mother of “Today” show host Savannah Guthrie, was abducted just as the Tucson gem shows were starting.

Butterfield Jewelers going out of business sale ad
IndependentsFeb 13, 2026
97-Year-Old New Mexico Jewelry Store To Close

Butterfield Jewelers in Albuquerque, New Mexico, is preparing to close as members of the Butterfield family head into retirement.

Paul Morelli Rosebud Necklace
CollectionsFeb 13, 2026
A ‘Rosebud’ Necklace for Valentine’s Day

Paul Morelli’s “Rosebud” necklace, our Piece of the Week, uses 18-karat rose, green, and white gold to turn the symbol of love into jewelry.

Jewelers for Children
MajorsFeb 13, 2026
JFC Announces New Beneficiaries

The nonprofit has welcomed four new grantees for 2026.

Saks Fifth Avenue Club personal styling suite in Austin Texas
MajorsFeb 12, 2026
These 8 Saks Fifth Avenue Stores Are Closing

Parent company Saks Global is also closing nearly all Saks Off 5th locations, a Neiman Marcus store, and 14 personal styling suites.

Tudor Heart pendant on display at British Museum
CollectionsFeb 12, 2026
British Museum Raises $5M to Keep Jewel Linked to Henry VIII, Katherine of Aragon

It is believed the 24-karat heart-shaped enameled pendant was made for an event marking the betrothal of Princess Mary in 1518.

AGTA Spectrum, Cutting Edge Buyers Choice winners 2025
SourcingFeb 12, 2026
‘Cotton Candy’ Necklace, 35-Carat Kunzite Win 2025 ‘Buyer’s Choice’ Awards

The AGTA Spectrum and Cutting Edge “Buyer’s Choice” award winners were announced at the Spectrum Awards Gala last week.

Kering Logo
Events & AwardsFeb 12, 2026
Kering Opens Entries for 2026 Sustainability-Focused Award

The “Kering Generation Award x Jewelry” returns for its second year with “Second Chance, First Choice” as its theme.

Halle Berry’s vintage diamond and sapphire engagement ring
TrendsFeb 11, 2026
Halle Berry’s Retro Engagement Ring Is a Sapphire-Set Stunner

Sourced by For Future Reference Vintage, the yellow gold ring has a round center stone surrounded by step-cut sapphires.

Francesca’s storefront
MajorsFeb 11, 2026
Francesca’s Files for Chapter 11 Bankruptcy Again

The clothing and accessories chain announced last month it would be closing all of its stores.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy