Auctions

Jewels from Modernist Designer Art Smith, Sammy Davis Jr. Head to Auction

AuctionsJul 13, 2021

Jewels from Modernist Designer Art Smith, Sammy Davis Jr. Head to Auction

“California Jewels” will feature six of Smith’s pieces, bought at his Greenwich Village store by a friend and collector.

20210713_AS-1.jpg
This pair of sterling silver earclips, designed by Art Smith (unsigned) circa 1950, is estimated to sell for between $1,000 and $1,500 at Bonhams L.A. next week.
Los Angeles—Bonhams L.A.’s upcoming “California Jewels” auction will feature pieces designed by modernist jeweler Art Smith as well as jewelry that once belonged to one of the greatest performers of the 20th century.

Smith (1917–1982) was known for making jewelry influenced by biomorphism—design meant to evoke nature and living organisms—and Surrealism, creating pieces dynamic in both style and form.

He typically worked in brass and copper and sometimes sterling silver, but rarely worked in gold.

Smith trained at Cooper Union in New York City and sold his jewels at his store in Greenwich Village from 1946 to 1979.

His work was featured in Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar, and museums around the world have also collected Smith’s jewels, including the Boston Museum of Fine Arts, The Newark Museum, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, and the Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum.

The Brooklyn Museum’s 2008 exhibition, “From the Village to Vogue: The Modernist Jewelry of Art Smith,” helped bring interest in the Afro-Cuban artist back to the fore.

Smith is also the namesake for the endowment fund created in 2020 for Black students enrolled in, or looking to enroll in, the Fashion Institute of Technology’s jewelry design program.

See: The Art Smith Pieces Up for Auction

The six Art Smith pieces on the block during the L.A. sale—three of which are unsigned—come from a collector who said her mother became friends with Smith in the late 1940s and bought several pieces at his Greenwich Village store.

“My sister and I grew up hearing stories of Art Smith, who was a larger-than-life character from Greenwich Village. In the late 1940s, my parents lived in New York City and became friends with (him),” she said.

“Mom’s memory of him was that of a tall (to her) openly gay Black man with a shaved head wearing an earring. He made an impression on her, selling his designs from his own shop on Cornelia Street. She explained to us what a rarity this was in the 1940s, and how much courage it took for him to live his life.”

The jewels in the auction are sculptural pieces of art.

There’s a sterling silver and moonstone necklace circa 1950; a sterling silver collar and bangle circa 1950; and a pair of sterling silver ear clips attributed to Smith circa 1950.

There will also be an 18-karat gold and opal bead ring circa 1950 designed by Smith, a sterling silver cuff bracelet circa 1950, and a pair of sterling silver earclips circa 1950.

Bonhams’ upcoming L.A. jewelry auction will also feature jewelry once owned by none other than Sammy Davis Jr.

Born in Harlem to Afro-Cuban vaudeville dancers, Davis spent his life in showbusiness, performing for the first time at the age of 3.

He broke down myriad racial barriers to become a successful comedian, actor, dancer, and singer.

See: Sammy Davis Jr.’s Jewelry 

After starring as the lead in “Mr. Wonderful” on Broadway, Davis became friends with Frank Sinatra, forming the “Rat Pack” with Sinatra, Dean Martin, Joey Bishop, and Peter Lawford, and appearing in movies like the original “Ocean’s 11” (1960) and “Sergeants 3” with them.

The Tony-nominated performer also had a flair for style from the get-go, always seen wearing a suit and donning at least one big gold ring.

In 1967, he was the first Black man to be featured on the cover of GQ, sporting that signature look.

Now, five pieces once in his collection will be up for auction at the Bonhams L.A. sale.

They include an 18-karat bicolor gold, diamond, and enamel monogram ring, and an 18-karat bicolor gold, diamond, and enamel monogram necklace.

The other three of his pieces in the jewelry auction are a Bueche Girod 18-karat gold bracelet watch; a gold and diamond solitaire ring; and an 18-karat gold fancy brown diamond and white diamond ring.

To view all the lots in the July 20 “California Jewels” auction, visit Bonhams.com
Brecken Branstratoris the senior editor, gemstones at National Jeweler, covering sourcing, pricing and other developments in the colored stone sector.

The Latest

Stock image of shipping containers
Policies & IssuesJul 28, 2025
U.S.-EU Come to Agreement on Tariffs

Announced Sunday, the deal will set the tax on goods imported into the United States from the European Union at 15 percent.

Nanis Ipanema Collection Campaign
CollectionsJul 28, 2025
Nanis Brings a New Palette to ‘Ipanema’

A new edition of the Italian brand’s “Ipanema” collection has debuted with gemstones that evoke Brazil’s breathtaking views.

Kevin O’ Leary and George Mayer of The 1916 Company
MajorsJul 28, 2025
The 1916 Company Partners with ‘Shark Tank’ Star’s Watch Insurance Platform

The retailer will refer its customers to WonderCare, founded by venture capitalist and watch collector Kevin O’Leary.

rio-article photo-diamond.jpg
Brought to you by
Taking the Moment Head On: How Rio Grande Champions the Present & Future of Fine Jewelry

As a leading global jewelry supplier, Rio Grande is rapidly expanding and developing new solutions to meet the needs of jewelers worldwide.

Sissy’s new Little Rock store
IndependentsJul 28, 2025
Sissy’s Log Cabin to Open Flagship in Arkansas

The jeweler’s largest store yet is set to open in Little Rock next fall.

Weekly QuizJul 25, 2025
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Jemma Wynne Forme Toggle Necklace
CollectionsJul 25, 2025
Piece of the Week: Jemma Wynne’s ‘Forme’ Necklace

Anne Hathaway was seen wearing the toggle necklace three times while filming scenes for “The Devil Wears Prada 2.”

September Hong Kong jewelry show
Events & AwardsJul 25, 2025
Pre-Registration Open for September Hong Kong Show

Jewellery & Gem World Hong Kong is scheduled for Sept. 15 to 21, and buyer pre-registration will be available until Sept. 7.

an instructor and a student in a bench jewelry classroom
Brought to you by
Investing in the Next Generation of Bench Jewelers

The Seymour & Evelyn Holtzman Bench Scholarship from Jewelers of America returns for a second year.

Bulgari Celestial Mosaic spinel necklace
FinancialsJul 25, 2025
LVMH Sales Slip in H1 Amid ‘Prevailing Uncertainties’

Renovations at Tiffany & Co. stores ate into profits in the company’s watch and jewelry division.

Mark and Candy Udell
Events & AwardsJul 24, 2025
2 Retailers to Receive 2026 Gem Award for Lifetime Achievement

Mark and Candy Udell of London Jewelers will receive the honor at the 24th annual Gem Awards next March.

De Beers marine mining vessel the SS Nujoma
SourcingJul 24, 2025
De Beers Sees Diamond Production Sink 36% in Q2

While struggles continue at the mining and trading end of the pipeline, consumer demand for diamond jewelry is holding steady.

Francesca Villa Fantasia Collection The Crab Pendant, The Mermaid Pendant, Keep Dancing Seahorse Pendant, Keep Dancing Ladybug Pendant, Secret Dreams Pendant, The Puffer Fish Takes Flight Pendant
CollectionsJul 24, 2025
Francesca Villa Adds Dimension to Her Intaglio Characters

The “Fantasia” jewelry collection turns the intaglio animals from her “Close Encounters” collection into 3D characters.

Breitling’s special Eagles Super Bowl watch on gold bracelet
WatchesJul 24, 2025
Breitling Drops Super Bowl Watch Honoring the Philadelphia Eagles

The special Classic Avi Chronograph 42 with an Eagles-green dial is limited to 59 pieces, a nod to the Super Bowl Philadelphia just won.

Stock image of crime scene tape
CrimeJul 23, 2025
JSA Warns of Violent String of Smash-and-Grabs in California

JSA has received reports of mobs swarming jewelry stores, driving cars into the storefront or smashing through the windows.

Silvia Furmanovich Kasmir Collection Carnelian Bracelet and Sketch
CollectionsJul 23, 2025
Silvia Furmanovich’s ‘Kashmir’ Collection Is a Tribute to Northern India

The “Kashmir” collection features centuries-old craft techniques made in collaboration with the region’s master papier-mâché artisans.

Bench jeweler holding a bracelet and a tool
IndependentsJul 23, 2025
Montreal’s Ecksand Eyes Move to SoHo

Creative Director Erica Bianchini shared why the jeweler is looking to expand into the U.S. and how it’s putting Canadian craftsmanship on the map.

LAFD Fire Station 44 and Fire Station 16
IndependentsJul 23, 2025
IJO Raises Nearly $37K for LA Fire Relief

Two Los Angeles Fire Department stations plan to use the donations to upgrade their equipment and tools.

A Vanitas by Hannah Martin and Guy Berryman Sothebys
CollectionsJul 22, 2025
Jewelry With a Rock ‘n’ Roll Aesthetic Heads to Sotheby’s London

Next week, the auction house will kick off a selling exhibition of jewelry by British artist Hannah Martin and Coldplay’s Guy Berryman.

Cover of the book “Flawless: Inside the Largest Diamond Heist in History”
SourcingJul 22, 2025
Antwerp Diamond Heist Documentary Coming to Netflix

“Stolen: Heist of the Century” is based on “Flawless,” the book about the middle-of-the-night theft, and will debut on Netflix in August.

Emmanuel Raheb
ColumnistsJul 22, 2025
The Gifting Gap: How to Market Jewelry Beyond the Holidays

Emmanuel Raheb shares the top five gifting moments outside of major holidays that jewelers should build marketing campaigns around.

NY Now
Events & AwardsJul 22, 2025
NY Now’s Summer Market Returns in August

The wholesale trade show’s Luxury Lifestyle section will showcase established and emerging jewelry designers.

Jeweler setting a diamond into a ring
MajorsJul 21, 2025
Rio Grande Expands Personalization Offerings

As demand for custom jewelry grows, the company is expanding its services to support retailers.

National Associate of Jewelry Appraisers Logo
Events & AwardsJul 21, 2025
NAJA’s 2025 ‘Ace It’ Conference To Go Virtual

The mid-year conference for jewelry and watch appraisers is slated for Aug. 9 to 10 on Zoom.

Jacquie Aiche graduated turquoise beaded necklace
TrendsJul 21, 2025
Amanda’s Style File: Graduated With Honors

Graduated stones make for elevated tennis-style pieces and dramatic statement necklaces.

24th Gem Awards Show Logo
Events & AwardsJul 21, 2025
Gem Awards Now Accepting Nominations for 2026

Nominations in the categories of Jewelry Design, Media Excellence, and Retail Innovation will be accepted through July 30.

Lewis Heyman
MajorsJul 18, 2025
Lewis Heyman on Sourcing Gemstones, Post-Retirement Plans

He retired last month after 28 years traveling the world to source the very best gemstones for his family’s jewelry business, Oscar Heyman.

CCWW Designs Multiple Shell Charm Necklace
TrendsJul 18, 2025
Piece of the Week: CCWW Designs’ Shell Charm Necklace

The charm necklace features six nautical charms of shells and coral that founder Christina Puchi collected on Florida’s beaches.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy