Editors

11 Insights on Artisanal and Small-Scale Mining

EditorsOct 31, 2018

11 Insights on Artisanal and Small-Scale Mining

Experts involved in mining around the globe discussed challenges and opportunities in the sector at the Chicago Responsible Jewelry Conference.

The mining side of the colored gemstone market is not without its issues and can feel like a major challenge when it comes to conversations around responsible sourcing.

But it’s a vital part of those conversations because it has such a tremendous impact on communities worldwide and plays an important role in the industry.

As Monica Stephenson of iDazzle and Anza Gems so succinctly put it during a panel at the recent Chicago Responsible Jewelry Conference: “Their challenges are our challenges, really. It affects all of us down the supply chain.”

While mining methods can vary from place to place, the challenges are largely the same.

Luckily, there are people in the industry already tackling those challenges head on, and a few of them came together during the conference for a panel on artisanal and small-scale mining.

Stephenson moderated the session. Panelists were: Salma Kundi Ernest, secretary general of the Tanzanian Women’s Mining Association (TaWoMA); Stuart Pool of Nineteen48, Rubyfair, Crown Gems and co-founder of Fair Luxury; Hewan Zewdi, co-founder of Gems of Ethiopia; Cristina Villegas, director of mines to markets at the NGO Pact; and Norbert Massay, Pact program manager.

Here are a few interesting takeaways from the panel, several of which reiterated the challenges and obstacles mentioned in the panel on gemstone cutting.

On establishing a transparent mine-to-market supply chain in Sri Lanka

“From the outset we wanted to make sure that we knew everything about the stones that we were going to be selling. And it became very quickly quite apparent that in order really to be able to say to people, to our customers, hand on heart, ‘we know exactly where the stones come from,’ it was going to be to actually own the whole supply chain.”
-- Stuart Pool

On what it’s like to be a miner in Sri Lanka

“Fortunately in Sri Lanka, we have a very good environment in terms of the mining and the sourcing of gemstones. It’s a very major part of the economy in the country, and it’s something they’ve been doing for centuries. There’s a very well-established framework, a good understanding of the industry, and there’s also a good legal structure. So we don’t face a lot of the issues that are faced in other countries about the marginalization of the mining communities or the illegal nature of mining activity.”
-- Pool

On providing assurances to customers about the origin of their gems

“I

think … that we still operate very much in a trust-based system, so … ultimately they have to trust that their supplier—that’s me—is telling them the true and accurate story about the stones. Having said that, as I said, in Sri Lanka we have, at least, a good legal structure, so I have documentation so I can show people the lease for the land or the license that we have to mine there. I can show people the contracts that we give to our workers … So we do have a certain amount of paper trail. Because the country is so accessible, we also have the benefit that people have come to see us.”
-- Pool

On the challenges inherent in working with local Ethiopian miners

“The problem is mostly they don’t have any knowledge of the value of gemstones.”
-- Hewan Zewdi

On if the government is encouraging the gem trade

“The Ethiopian government and the Ministry of Mining have established actually a very traceable system from mine to market because all the artisanal miners are licensed and they have an association to back them up … And (the government is) more than happy and supportive for us to open small lapidaries to export and to expand this side of mining.”
-- Zewdi

On what they’re doing for their miners

“We … decided to add the miners as part of our company to share profits instead of just buying from them or contracting from them. We decided we need to add them to the mining profit and whatever we’re doing. They deserve it. They work hard. They have a very challenging job. They don’t have transportation. They don’t have water to the area. They don’t have schools. They struggle. They don’t even have a decent ladder to move down the whole to dig up stuff.”
-- Zewdi

On the challenges of mining in Tanzania

“She mentioned four challenges. One of them is they don’t have the equipment to do the work … The second one is knowledge about doing the mining. Actually they keep on asking every time, ‘Is there a machine that they can use to find out where is the pocket?’ Another one is the finances to do the work. For example, food for the people who are mining. Sometimes it’s difficult to get food to feed them. And the fourth one is the markets. It’s very difficult to get to markets. They only get local buyers whom they sell to for a very low price.”
-- Norbert Massay translating for Salma Kundi Ernest

“It’s true that paying for a license is (also) one of the key challenges among women. It costs about $400, which is very difficult for a normal woman who is mining to get $400.”
-- Massay for Kundi Ernest

On the impact of the GIA’s gem guide project

“Before this project began … it was really difficult for them to know the value of the materials they had. They were just selling whatever they thought was OK. After this project, they can identify, they can sort, they know how to wash and add value into the material … They are really now getting more money than when they didn’t have this project. It has added a lot of value into their life using a book and using a tray.”
-- Massay for Kundi Ernest

On the current ban on exporting rough in Tanzania (extended to all rough gems earlier this year in an effort to establishing cutting in country)

“It’s a big challenge. For her and for the communities, it is very difficult to sell now. So even when they know the quality of the rough they have, now they have been selling it at an even lower price compared to even before they knew the value.”
-- Massay for Kundi Ernest

“To fully understand the scope of the problem, you have to understand that Tanzania is not prepared to cut in any way, shape or form the amount of material that is coming out. It’s a grand noble gesture but there is no practicality to it.”
-- Monica Stephenson
Brecken Branstratoris the senior editor, gemstones at National Jeweler, covering sourcing, pricing and other developments in the colored stone sector.
tags:

The Latest

My Next Question, Episode 5: Amanda Gizzi, Michelle Graff, Frank Everett
PodcastsMay 20, 2026
Episode 5: Sotheby’s Frank Everett Puts the Auction Market in Perspective

Everett covers colored stones’ surging popularity, the mellow return of the “Mellon Blue,” and his “The Devil Wears Prada” doppelgänger.

Jewelry scam flyer and police officer handing flyer to elderly man
CrimeMay 20, 2026
NYPD Warns of Jewelry Swap Scams Targeting Seniors

The NYPD is warning elderly New Yorkers to keep their jewelry hidden when walking outside to avoid being a target.

New Adornment & Theory jewelry store in West Town, Chicago
IndependentsMay 20, 2026
Adornment & Theory’s New Store Feels Like Home

Designer Viviana Langhoff has realized her dream of owning a space for her Chicago jewelry store that looks and feels like her brand.

PG-05-SHOT-2-LUCIDA.033 1.png
Brought to you by
All Eyes on Gold Prices. Alternatives to Look For. And What to BEWARE of in Vegas

As gold prices rise, today’s retailers are looking for alternatives at prices that will appeal to wider audiences.

Couture Show Logo
Events & AwardsMay 20, 2026
Here Is Couture’s 2026 Education Lineup

The sessions will run from Friday, May 29, to Sunday, May 31, with one being a live taping of an episode of Couture’s podcast.

Weekly QuizMay 14, 2026
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Morgan P. Richardson
Lab-GrownMay 20, 2026
Savannah Friedkin Jewelry Names New CEO

Former Stephanie Gottlieb Fine Jewelry executive Morgan P. Richardson is joining the lab-grown diamond jewelry brand.

Audemars Piguet x Swatch white Royal Pop watch
WatchesMay 19, 2026
Here’s the AP x Swatch Pocket Watch That Caused Pandemonium

The $400 pocket watch is a blend of Audemars Piguet’s iconic eight-sided Royal Oak and Swatch’s unserious Pop watches from the ‘80s.

1872x1052-NextGem-2026-National-Jeweler-Advertorial.jpg
Brought to you by
How Modern Training Is Becoming a Competitive Advantage for Jewelry Retailers

With the trade and customer trust in mind, GIA® developed NextGem™ – on-demand training designed specifically for retail.

Chris Ploof Modern Electrum Collection Milgrain Rows and Diamonds Ring
CollectionsMay 19, 2026
Chris Ploof’s New Collection Makes an Ancient Medal Modern

With gold prices on the rise, the “Modern Electrum” collection uses an alternative, non-tarnishing metal alloy composed of gold and silver.

Ellen and Michael Fruchtman
IndependentsMay 19, 2026
Ellen and Michael Fruchtman Retire, Sell Marketing Agency

Fruchtman Marketing has new owners, Erin Moyer-Carballea and Manuel Carballea, and will relocate to Miami.

Peter Smith and National Jeweler contributor
ColumnistsMay 19, 2026
Peter Smith: The (Mostly) Immutable Sales Truths

In a column for the 2026 State of the Majors issue, Smith lists 10 time-tested principles about sales that still ring true.

Edahn Golan, Tenoris co-founder and National Jeweler contributor
ColumnistsMay 18, 2026
Edahn Golan: What a K-Shaped Economy Means for Fine Jewelry

In a column for the 2026 State of the Majors issue, Golan spells out how the growing economic divide in the U.S. is reshaping the market.

Foundrae Limitless Expansion of Joy and Hope Collection Campaign Imagery
CollectionsMay 18, 2026
Foundrae’s New Collection Taps Into Joy

The “Limitless Expansion of Joy and Hope” collection evokes summer through colored gemstones and motifs of butterflies and florals.

Inchiquin emerald
CollectionsMay 18, 2026
Hancocks London Acquires Historic ‘Inchiquin’ Emerald

The jewel, circa 1890, is from the late Victorian era and was owned by descendants of the last high king of Ireland.

JCK Industry Fund Logo
Events & AwardsMay 18, 2026
Here Are the 2026 JCK Industry Fund Grant Recipients

This is what the nine recipients plan to do with the funds.

John Wayne Signet Ring
AuctionsMay 15, 2026
American Collector Ponies Up Almost $17K for John Wayne’s Ring

The Western star’s 14-karat gold signet ring sold for six times its low estimate following a bidding war at U.K. auction house Elmwood’s.

MJSA Education Foundation and Jewelers of America
Events & AwardsMay 15, 2026
JA, MJSA To Sponsor Roundtable at TJS

The discussion, "Rebuilding the Jewelry Workforce," will take place on Saturday, May 16, in Troy, Michigan.

Three gold rings set with yellow- and brown-hued diamonds
SourcingMay 15, 2026
State of Diamonds: The Way Forward for Natural Diamonds

The jewelry industry is reassessing its positioning as Gen Z reshapes the retail landscape and lab grown continues to gain market share.

Matching pair of Type IIa, D-color diamonds
AuctionsMay 14, 2026
White Diamonds Lead Sotheby’s Auction, Blue Diamond Does Not Sell

A matching pair of 18.38-carat, D-color diamonds from Botswana’s Jwaneng mine sold for $3.3 million, the top lot of the jewelry auction.

DeBeeers_Bridal_Display_Dune_1872x1052.jpg
Supplier BulletinMay 14, 2026
A Diamond Is Forever Continues Desert Diamonds – Bridal Reinvigorated

Sponsored by A Diamond Is Forever

Faceting Apprentice gem cutting school
SourcingMay 14, 2026
State of Colored Stones: The Spirit of Young American Gemstone Cutters

The next generation of lapidarists are entrepreneurial, engaged online, and see the craft as a means for artistic expression.

Ocean Dream diamond
AuctionsMay 14, 2026
‘Ocean Dream’ Makes Waves at Christie’s, Fetching $17M

It was the second auction appearance for the fancy vivid blue-green diamond, which sold for $7.8 million at Christie’s Geneva 12 years ago.

Stock image of police cars with their lights on
CrimeMay 14, 2026
Second Man Arrested in Florida Pawn Shop Shooting

Members of the U.S. Marshals Task Force took a 22-year-old man into custody. He was charged with tampering with evidence.

Stock image of crime scene with police cars and crime scene tape
CrimeMay 13, 2026
JSA’s 2025 Crime Report Shows ‘Concerning’ Rise in Violence

While the overall number of crimes was down, there were more incidences in which robbers pulled out guns, mace, or rammed cars into stores.

Jack Sutton Jewelers
IndependentsMay 13, 2026
New Orleans Jeweler Closing Canal Place Store

Jack Sutton Fine Jewelry is closing its store inside the downtown shopping center after 40 years in business.

Winston Red Diamond painting by Reena Ahluwalia
SourcingMay 13, 2026
Smithsonian Acquires ‘Winston Red’ Diamond Painting

Reena Ahluwalia’s painting of the rare red diamond is the first contemporary painting to join the National Gem Collection.

Anna Maccieri Rossi Ora Wood Sunrise Cuff, Marie Lichtenberg High Jewelry Bandana, Anna Maccieri Rossi Carpe Diem Pendant
TrendsMay 13, 2026
State of Design: Only the Innovative Will Survive

The price of gold has risen, affecting the number of pieces designers make, the materials they use, and how they position themselves.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy