Editors

11 Insights on Artisanal and Small-Scale Mining

EditorsOct 31, 2018

11 Insights on Artisanal and Small-Scale Mining

Experts involved in mining around the globe discussed challenges and opportunities in the sector at the Chicago Responsible Jewelry Conference.

The mining side of the colored gemstone market is not without its issues and can feel like a major challenge when it comes to conversations around responsible sourcing.

But it’s a vital part of those conversations because it has such a tremendous impact on communities worldwide and plays an important role in the industry.

As Monica Stephenson of iDazzle and Anza Gems so succinctly put it during a panel at the recent Chicago Responsible Jewelry Conference: “Their challenges are our challenges, really. It affects all of us down the supply chain.”

While mining methods can vary from place to place, the challenges are largely the same.

Luckily, there are people in the industry already tackling those challenges head on, and a few of them came together during the conference for a panel on artisanal and small-scale mining.

Stephenson moderated the session. Panelists were: Salma Kundi Ernest, secretary general of the Tanzanian Women’s Mining Association (TaWoMA); Stuart Pool of Nineteen48, Rubyfair, Crown Gems and co-founder of Fair Luxury; Hewan Zewdi, co-founder of Gems of Ethiopia; Cristina Villegas, director of mines to markets at the NGO Pact; and Norbert Massay, Pact program manager.

Here are a few interesting takeaways from the panel, several of which reiterated the challenges and obstacles mentioned in the panel on gemstone cutting.

On establishing a transparent mine-to-market supply chain in Sri Lanka

“From the outset we wanted to make sure that we knew everything about the stones that we were going to be selling. And it became very quickly quite apparent that in order really to be able to say to people, to our customers, hand on heart, ‘we know exactly where the stones come from,’ it was going to be to actually own the whole supply chain.”
-- Stuart Pool

On what it’s like to be a miner in Sri Lanka

“Fortunately in Sri Lanka, we have a very good environment in terms of the mining and the sourcing of gemstones. It’s a very major part of the economy in the country, and it’s something they’ve been doing for centuries. There’s a very well-established framework, a good understanding of the industry, and there’s also a good legal structure. So we don’t face a lot of the issues that are faced in other countries about the marginalization of the mining communities or the illegal nature of mining activity.”
-- Pool

On providing assurances to customers about the origin of their gems

“I

think … that we still operate very much in a trust-based system, so … ultimately they have to trust that their supplier—that’s me—is telling them the true and accurate story about the stones. Having said that, as I said, in Sri Lanka we have, at least, a good legal structure, so I have documentation so I can show people the lease for the land or the license that we have to mine there. I can show people the contracts that we give to our workers … So we do have a certain amount of paper trail. Because the country is so accessible, we also have the benefit that people have come to see us.”
-- Pool

On the challenges inherent in working with local Ethiopian miners

“The problem is mostly they don’t have any knowledge of the value of gemstones.”
-- Hewan Zewdi

On if the government is encouraging the gem trade

“The Ethiopian government and the Ministry of Mining have established actually a very traceable system from mine to market because all the artisanal miners are licensed and they have an association to back them up … And (the government is) more than happy and supportive for us to open small lapidaries to export and to expand this side of mining.”
-- Zewdi

On what they’re doing for their miners

“We … decided to add the miners as part of our company to share profits instead of just buying from them or contracting from them. We decided we need to add them to the mining profit and whatever we’re doing. They deserve it. They work hard. They have a very challenging job. They don’t have transportation. They don’t have water to the area. They don’t have schools. They struggle. They don’t even have a decent ladder to move down the whole to dig up stuff.”
-- Zewdi

On the challenges of mining in Tanzania

“She mentioned four challenges. One of them is they don’t have the equipment to do the work … The second one is knowledge about doing the mining. Actually they keep on asking every time, ‘Is there a machine that they can use to find out where is the pocket?’ Another one is the finances to do the work. For example, food for the people who are mining. Sometimes it’s difficult to get food to feed them. And the fourth one is the markets. It’s very difficult to get to markets. They only get local buyers whom they sell to for a very low price.”
-- Norbert Massay translating for Salma Kundi Ernest

“It’s true that paying for a license is (also) one of the key challenges among women. It costs about $400, which is very difficult for a normal woman who is mining to get $400.”
-- Massay for Kundi Ernest

On the impact of the GIA’s gem guide project

“Before this project began … it was really difficult for them to know the value of the materials they had. They were just selling whatever they thought was OK. After this project, they can identify, they can sort, they know how to wash and add value into the material … They are really now getting more money than when they didn’t have this project. It has added a lot of value into their life using a book and using a tray.”
-- Massay for Kundi Ernest

On the current ban on exporting rough in Tanzania (extended to all rough gems earlier this year in an effort to establishing cutting in country)

“It’s a big challenge. For her and for the communities, it is very difficult to sell now. So even when they know the quality of the rough they have, now they have been selling it at an even lower price compared to even before they knew the value.”
-- Massay for Kundi Ernest

“To fully understand the scope of the problem, you have to understand that Tanzania is not prepared to cut in any way, shape or form the amount of material that is coming out. It’s a grand noble gesture but there is no practicality to it.”
-- Monica Stephenson
Brecken Branstratoris the senior editor, gemstones at National Jeweler, covering sourcing, pricing and other developments in the colored stone sector.
tags:

The Latest

Photos from Day’s Jewelers 2025 Mother’s Day campaign
IndependentsApr 23, 2026
Meet the Real Moms of Day’s Jewelers

The jeweler’s Mother’s Day campaign highlights the women who work there—mothers, grandmothers, women who want to be mothers, and dog moms.

National Jeweler - Supplier Bulletin - April 2026 - JMSS Graphic.jpg
Supplier BulletinApr 23, 2026
JM® Shipping Solution: Smarter Shipping for High-Value Goods

Sponsored by Jewelers Mutual

Woman wearing Charles & Colvard lab grown diamond jewelry
Lab-GrownApr 23, 2026
Charles & Colvard May Sell Assets for $1.5M

The proposed agreement follows the moissanite maker’s Chapter 11 bankruptcy protection filing last month.

Antique Jewelry & Watch Show
Brought to you by
Discover Timeless Treasures: A Showcase of Antique Jewelry & Timepieces in Las Vegas

Gain access to the most exclusive and coveted antique pieces from trusted dealers during Las Vegas Jewelry Week.

John Jacob Astor IV’s Titanic pocket watch and a gold pencil case
AuctionsApr 23, 2026
John Jacob Astor IV’s Titanic Pocket Watch Fetches $1M

The Patek Philippe for Tiffany & Co. timepiece Astor brought aboard the ill-fated ship sold for double its estimate at a Freeman’s auction.

Weekly QuizApr 16, 2026
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Adam Neeley Dali Garden Collection Eyris Ring
CollectionsApr 23, 2026
Adam Neeley’s High Jewelry Collection Steps Into Salvador Dalí’s Garden

The “Dalí’s Garden” collection was inspired by a surreal dream Neeley had after cooking a recipe from Salvador Dalí’s 1973 cookbook.

Natalie Feanny
IndependentsApr 23, 2026
Windsor Jewelers Names New Buying Director

Natalie Feanny has been appointed to the role.

lvajws image 1.jpg
Brought to you by
Las Vegas Antique Jewelry & Watch Show: Showcasing the Most Collectible Merchandise from Across the Globe

Gain access to the most exclusive and coveted antique pieces from trusted dealers during Las Vegas Jewelry Week.

Stock image of a gavel and books
CrimeApr 22, 2026
New Mexico Couple Pleads Guilty to Selling Fake Native American Jewelry

The pair falsely claimed their jewelry was made by Navajo artists, but it was imported from Vietnam.

Roberta Flack: Style, Art, & Music Auction Bulgari Collar
AuctionsApr 22, 2026
Roberta Flack’s Jewelry Is Going Up for Auction

Julien’s Auctions is selling the musician’s fine and fashion jewelry alongside her clothing, gold records, and other memorabilia.

Rachel King and The Tudor Heart book cover
CollectionsApr 22, 2026
British Museum Curator Pens Book on ‘The Tudor Heart’

Rachel King’s book dives into the history of the pendant believed to have belonged to Henry VIII and his first wife, Katherine of Aragon.

Henry Kessler, Vance Kessler, Alex Kessler, and Daniel Kessler of Sy Kessler Sales Inc.
Events & AwardsApr 22, 2026
Here’s What Sy Kessler Has on Tap for Las Vegas

The company will have deals on precious metals testers as well as the latest in lab-grown diamond detection technology and security.

Chanel Coco Game Haute Horlogerie Chessboard
WatchesApr 21, 2026
Coco Chanel Enters the Game with New Watch Collection

Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel is a character in the “Coco Game” collection of watches and the queen in its first haute horlogerie chessboard.

Jewelers of America 20 Under 40 winners collage
IndependentsApr 21, 2026
Meet Jewelers of America’s 2026 ‘20 Under 40’ Class

The annual list honors rising professionals on the retail and supply sides of the jewelry industry.

Fake Fendi bangle
CrimeApr 21, 2026
Customs Nabs 1,500 Pieces of Counterfeit Jewelry Bound for NYC

Seized in Kentucky, the packages include fake Cartier, Tiffany & Co., Chanel, and Fendi jewelry.

Stock image of a judge’s gavel
CrimeApr 20, 2026
Queens Man Convicted in Bludgeoning Death of Pawn Shop Owner

Rodolfo Lopez-Portillo faces 25 years to life in prison after being found guilty in the March 2022 beating death of Arasb Shoughi.

Jewelry Creators: Dynamic Duos and Generational Gems Book Cover
TrendsApr 20, 2026
Beth Bernstein, Sonia Esther Soltani Pen New Jewelry Book

“Jewelry Creators: Dynamic Duos and Generational Gems” highlights the relationships among 22 influential designers, brands, and gem dealers.

Savannah Convention Center
Events & AwardsApr 20, 2026
Atlanta Jewelry Show’s Spring Event Is Hitting the Road

The AJS Spring 2027 show will be held in Savannah, Georgia, with future shows taking place in other Southeast cities.

Mike McMullen and Adrienne Gernand
MajorsApr 20, 2026
Kendra Scott Names New CFO, Chief Business Officer

The jewelry retailer plans to open 20 new stores this year and expand into new product categories.

Oscar Heyman Multi-Colored Tourmaline and Diamond Flower Necklace
TrendsApr 17, 2026
New (Groundbreaking) Floral Jewelry for Spring 2026

Flower motifs are the jewelry trend blooming amongst the new collections that debuted this spring.

QVC Group logo
MajorsApr 17, 2026
QVC Group Files for Chapter 11 Bankruptcy

The retailer reported an 8 percent decline in annual sales as it struggles under the weight of billions of dollars of debt.

Edina Kiss Devil Drop Earrings
CollectionsApr 17, 2026
Edina Kiss’ Earrings Are the Devil on Your Shoulder

The “Devil” drop earrings, our Piece of the Week, are part of designer Edina Kiss’ new namesake jewelry line that she will show at Couture.

Stock image of gold bars
CrimeApr 17, 2026
FBI Issues Warning to Refineries, Retailers Due to High Price of Gold

The alert states that burglary crews are targeting jewelry businesses and details how jewelers and refineries can protect themselves.

Cartier Roadster
WatchesApr 16, 2026
Cartier Brings Back the Roadster

The “watchmaker of shapes” debuted the reworked version of the vintage sports car-inspired timepiece at Watches & Wonders.

Edge Retail Academy Ellen Gardner, Jennifer Motes, Mona Lisa Shaffer, Cindi Haddad Drew
IndependentsApr 16, 2026
Edge Retail Academy Updates Leadership Team

As demand for jewelry retail coaching grows, the company has established a dedicated business coaching leadership team.

Stuller Mountings 2026-2027 Catalog
MajorsApr 16, 2026
Stuller’s Latest Mountings Catalog Is Out Now

The “Mountings 2026-2027” catalog showcases Stuller’s largest and most diverse assortment to date with more than 400 new mounting styles.

Screenshots of Episode 4 of the “My Next Question” podcast
PodcastsApr 15, 2026
Episode 4: The Natural Diamond Dilemma

Sally Morrison and Mark Klein discuss De Beers’ first beacon in 16 years and the mistake the industry made with lab-grown diamonds.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy