Editors

8 Takeaways from a Panel on Gemstone Cutting

EditorsOct 25, 2018

8 Takeaways from a Panel on Gemstone Cutting

Senior Editor Brecken Branstrator shares quotes and insights gleaned from experts during a discussion at the Chicago Responsible Jewelry Conference.

When responsible sourcing conversations arise, quite often they focus on the mining end of the supply chain.

So when I attended the recent Chicago Responsible Jewelry Conference, I was pleased to listen to a panel session on an area that can often be left out of the responsible conversation even though it’s just as important: cutting.

Eric Braunwart of Columbia Gem House moderated and participants were: Brandee Dallow of the Responsible Jewellery Council; American diamond cutter Maarten de Witte; Dharmendra Tank of Indian manufacturer Heeralal Chhaganlal Tank; Patricia Mweene of Inonge Zita Zambian Gemstones, which is helping develop the country’s cutting industry; and Rachel Hill of Americut Gems, which has a cutting facility in New Jersey.

Here are just a few of the many great quotations and insights from the conversation.

On realizing the need to build the lapidary sector in Zambia

“I wanted to make jewelry with gemstones from Zambia because I knew there were gemstones from Zambia. So I’d go to Hatton Gardens (in London) and try to buy some gemstones from Zambia for my jewelry. And when I saw the prices there, I thought something was absolutely wrong. No. Everything was fine. Just looking at those prices, I thought, well, if these stones are coming from Zambia and we have a gem cutting school in Zambia, why are we not getting a bit of these profits?”
-- Patricia Mweene

On the challenges faced by Zambian gemstone cutters

“One of the key challenges has been that most of the cutters in Zambia don’t have access to machinery. If they have a machine, it’s probably an old, old machine. In Africa, generally, when you have a machine, like you have a car and it breaks down, you don’t throw it away. You repair it until you cannot repair it anymore. For some of the cutters, it’s just simple things like laps. They’re cutting stones but they can’t afford to buy laps or spare parts.”
-- Mweene

“There are a lot of challenges, but mainly it’s access to machinery and access to the market so we can sell the gemstones at a fair price and cut out all the middle men because there are way too many middle men in the supply chain, the foreign middle men as well as all the local middle men.”
-- Mweene

On similar challenges seen by cutters in Madagascar

“After the first trip (for a World Bank

project), all these cutters came to me and said, ‘Can you fill your suitcase up with laps and tweezers and diamond powder next time you come in?’ And I said, ‘Why do I have to do that? You’ve got Rio Grande’s catalog sitting right in front of you.’ And they said, ‘Our currency is not convertible. We can’t order it, so we have to go get foreign currency.’ So I said, ‘Go get foreign currency.’ And they said, ‘Well we can’t do that because the minimum amount is $2,000.’ At the time that was 10 years’ average income for anyone in Madagascar.”
-- Eric Braunwart

On obstacles in India

“The biggest problem for our cutting factories recently is a regular supply of material … I know everyone must [wonder] why India is seeing so few cutters coming up in this business. That’s the reason; there’s no stability for them. We have to find a proper supply chain that we can definitely sustain all those cutters if they want to work with us.”
-- Dharmendra Tank

On Americut’s robotic cutting technology and its role in the sector

“We are trying to produce something that is technically very precise. We’ve started implementing a certification, so to speak, by scanning the gemstones and producing a symmetry grade, which is the exact same one that they use for diamonds with the GIA. This has never been heard of and I don’t know if it could be replicated in the future either, but it certainly creates a fingerprint for the gemstone that you know it’s not from overseas.”
-- Rachel Hill

On the need to tell the story

“If you’ve been to the factories, then you know and you’ve seen probably firsthand the passion and the art of cutting. And those are stories that I think we need to add to our repertoire, whether at the retail level or any level of the supply chain, because these people who are cutting these gemstones will literally tell you that the stones speak to them and tell them how they should be cut and what these stones want to be. There’s another great value-added story that we really should add to our repertoire to help the consumer understand just how many people, and how many passionate people, are involved in our process.”
-- Brandee Dallow

“It is about stories, but it’s also about very succinct stories. It’s about stories that consumers themselves can repeat. Just because you can tell them a good story doesn’t mean it’s a story that they can tell their friends. ‘Oh I bought because I heard about this guy, I met this guy, and he does this and I wanted one and that’s why I bought this.’ That is missing in our trade to a large extent. And even more so because we are so heavily involved in technology and trading information so it becomes ‘I have this, this and this—the same as everybody else—and I can sell it to you cheaper.’ If that is the only story we have to tell people, we’re doomed.”
-- Maarten de Witte
Brecken Branstratoris the senior editor, gemstones at National Jeweler, covering sourcing, pricing and other developments in the colored stone sector.

The Latest

National-Jeweler_1872x1502_B copy.png
Supplier BulletinJan 22, 2026
The Rise of Centralized Sourcing in the Colored Gemstone Market

Sponsored by RapNet

Lugano Diamonds Greenwich Connecticut store
MajorsJan 22, 2026
Lugano Diamonds Finds a Buyer

Investment firm Enhanced Retail Funding, a division of Gordon Brothers, was the successful bidder.

A Diamond Is Forever book
SourcingJan 22, 2026
De Beers To Release ‘A Diamond Is Forever’ Book

It explores the history of the iconic tagline and the company’s strategy to redefine the role of diamonds in society.

JamAlert 1872x1052.png
Brought to you by
How Jewelers Can Fight Back Against Cell Jammers

Criminals are using cell jammers to disable alarms, but new technology like JamAlert™ can stop them.

Sindhu Culas
MajorsJan 22, 2026
Swarovski Appoints New North America President

Retail veteran Sindhu Culas has stepped into the role.

Weekly QuizJan 22, 2026
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Taylor Burgess
MajorsJan 22, 2026
Stuller Names New Chief Merchandising, Marketing, Sales Officer

Taylor Burgess, who has been at Stuller since 2013, was promoted to the newly created role.

My Next Question podcast with Sherry Smith and Edahn Golan
PodcastsJan 21, 2026
Episode 1: High Gold Prices, the Diamond Dilemma, & What’s Next

Was 2025 a good year for jewelers? Did lab-grown diamonds outsell natural? Find out on the first episode of the “My Next Question” podcast.

Recipients Collage 2025 - NJ (1872 x 1050 px) (1872 x 1052 px).png
Brought to you by
Impacting Tomorrow Today

How Jewelers of America’s 20 Under 40 are leading to ensure a brighter future for the jewelry industry.

Columbia Gem House celestial shapes
SourcingJan 21, 2026
Tucson Preview 2026: Earthy Tones and Innovative Shapes

Buyers are expected to gravitate toward gemstones that have a little something special, just like last year.

Gavel and books stock image
CrimeJan 21, 2026
4 Men Charged in $1.7M California Smash-and-Grab Jewelry Store Robbery

Plus, JSA’s Scott Guginsky discusses the need for jewelers to take more precautions as the gold price continues to climb.

Felice Korr Morris
IndependentsJan 21, 2026
Delaware Jeweler Felice Morris Dies at 91

Morris’ most cherished role was being a mother and grandmother, her family said.

Bulgari Vimini Collection Campaign
CollectionsJan 21, 2026
Bulgari Weaves New Collection of ‘Vimini’ Creations

“Vimini” is the first chapter of the “Bulgari Eternal” collection that merges archival pieces with modern creations.

The Ritz-Carlton Half Moon Bay California
Events & AwardsJan 21, 2026
Jewelers Mutual’s ‘Conversations’ Retreat Returns to Discuss AI

The third edition will be held in Half Moon Bay, California, in April.

Hiba Husayni, Jules Kim, Johnny Nelson, Dorian Webb, Lorraine West
Events & AwardsJan 20, 2026
These Are the 5 Finalists for the David Yurman Gem Awards Grant

The grant is in its first year and was created to recognize an exceptional fine jewelry designer whose star is on the rise.

Emmanuel Raheb, National Jeweler columnist and CEO of Smart Age Solutions
ColumnistsJan 20, 2026
First-Party Data Is the Most Valuable Asset Jewelers Have in 2026

Data built on trust, not tracking, will be key to success going forward, as the era of “borrowed attention” ends, Emmanuel Raheb writes.

Heath Yarges
MajorsJan 20, 2026
Borsheims Hires New Assistant Facilities Manager

Heath Yarges brings two decades of experience to the role.

Buccellati Opera Tulle ring
FinancialsJan 16, 2026
Richemont’s Jewelry Brands Shine in Q3

Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Buccellati, and Vhernier had another successful holiday season, Richemont reported this week.

Lagos SML High Jewelry Bee Brooch
TrendsJan 16, 2026
Diane Lane's Brooch Buzzes at the 2026 Golden Globes

Our Piece of the Week is Lagos’ “Bee” brooch that was seen on the red carpet for the first time on Sunday.

Gavel
CrimeJan 15, 2026
D.C. Rapper ‘Taliban Glizzy’ Sentenced to 18+ Years for Jewelry Store Robberies

Trevor Jonathan Wright led a crew in a string of armed robberies targeting South Asian-owned jewelry stores on the East Coast.

Jewelers of America 20 Under 40 Program
Events & AwardsJan 15, 2026
Jewelers of Americas’ ‘20 Under 40’ Nominations Now Open

The program recognizes rising professionals in the jewelry industry.

The Venetian Expo Las Vegas
Events & AwardsJan 15, 2026
Registration for JCK Las Vegas 2026 Is Now Open

A new lifestyle section and a watch showcase have been added to this year’s event.

Avocados From Mexico Golden Double Dip Chip
TrendsJan 15, 2026
Don’t Double-Dip With This Golden Chip

Avocados From Mexico is celebrating those who love to double-dip in game day guacamole with a 14-karat yellow gold tortilla chip necklace.

41.82-carat rough blue diamond recovered from the Cullinan Mine
SourcingJan 15, 2026
Nearly 42-Carat Blue Diamond Discovered in South Africa

Petra Diamonds unearthed the 41.82-carat, Type IIb blue diamond at the Cullinan Mine.

Marie Lichtenberg Lasso Locket Bracelets Campaign
CollectionsJan 14, 2026
Marie Lichtenberg Lassos Leather for New Bracelets

The brand is trading its colorful fabric cords for Italian leather in its “Lasso” baby locket bracelets.

“My Next Question: The Podcast” graphic featuring Amanda Gizzi and Michelle Graff
TechnologyJan 14, 2026
“My Next Question” Enters Its Podcast Era

National Jeweler and Jewelers of America’s popular webinar series is evolving in 2026.

Saks New York City holiday lights
MajorsJan 14, 2026
Saks Files for Bankruptcy, Names New CEO

The department store chain owes millions to creditors like David Yurman, Roberto Coin, Kering, and LVMH.

Colman Domingo
CollectionsJan 14, 2026
Boucheron Names Colman Domingo as Brand Ambassador

The award-winning actor’s visionary approach and creativity echo the spirit of Boucheron, the brand said.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy