IndependentsApr 01, 2025
Bergman Jewelers in Omaha Closing After 137 YearsThe independent jeweler first opened its doors in 1888.
TrendsAug 20, 2014
The History Behind … eye miniatures
In this new monthly feature, National Jeweler editors delve into the when, where and why of antique jewelry. August’s focus is on eye miniatures, which first became popular in the 1770s.
Some eye miniatures also were mourning jewelry, such as this brooch. The black enamel with gray seed pearls symbolize tears, and the clouds painted around the eye symbolize a passage to heaven, which mark this as a mourning piece.
New York--People generally have one of two reactions when they see an eye miniature staring back at them.
“People either love them or think they are just beautiful, or people think they are creepy,” says Cathy Gordon, an antique jewelry collector and a co-author of Miriam Haskell Jewelry. “People will see them and say, ‘That is very strange.’”
Eye miniatures first began appearing in artists’ logbooks in the 1770s and retained their popularity for nearly 100 years.
In this second installment of The History Behind … , National Jeweler explores the when, where and why of eye miniatures with Gordon, who supports her antique jewelry collecting “habit” by working at Google.
What are eye miniatures? Members of the upper class, first in France then in the U.K., commissioned artists to paint portraits of a loved one’s eye only and had them set into brooches, pendants or rings, sometimes surrounded by gemstones.
Eye miniatures also were put onto toothpick cases and patch boxes (when eye miniatures were popular, many members of the upper class carried small decals with them, which sometimes were used to hide smallpox scars), Gordon says.
These pieces also are known as miniature eye portraits or “Lover’s Eye” jewelry, though Gordon notes the latter is a misnomer, as these portraits weren’t always necessarily of one’s lover. They could depict the eye of a family member or someone else close to the wearer.
When were they popular? The earliest eye miniatures recorded in artists’ log books surfaced in the 1770s and their popularity continued until the 1850s, ceasing as photography became more widespread and the public’s fascination with these eye-only paintings began to wane. “It was a fad, to some extent,” Gordon says.
She adds that the eye miniature did enjoy a very brief revival during the Arts and Crafts movement (about 1880 to 1930), as she has a miniature of a man’s eye dated 1903 in her collection.
Why did people wear eye miniatures? Part of the broader category of sentimental jewelry, the wealthy wore eye miniatures to emphasize friendships or alliances, ease the absence of a loved one who was far away and serve as a reminder of those who had died.
Eye miniature mourning pieces are recognizable by engraved and dated inscriptions; the eye surrounded by clouds (signifying a passage into heaven) or by black or white enamel; symbols of mourning
Editors' Picks
Sponsored by
such as a funerary urn; and in some instances, pearls (symbolizing tears).
What materials were used for these pieces? Here’s where eye miniatures pose a problem for collectors today: they typically were painted on either velum or Asian elephant ivory.
Because of federal ban on the commercial trade of elephant ivory, Gordon says it is extremely difficult to import eye miniatures painted on ivory into the United States today, even when there is appropriate certification and engraved dates on the piece proving it is an antique.
(According to the Jewelers Vigilance Committee, pieces that existed in the U.S. prior to the ban, which took effect in April, may be sold across state lines except in New York and New Jersey, which have banned the sale of elephant ivory. Under these state laws, antiques comprised of less than 20 percent elephant ivory can be sold but it requires the proper permit and proof of provenance.)
Pearls were the most commonly used stone for eye miniatures. Garnets and amethysts also were popular, as were coral and turquoise. Diamonds were used but rarely, Gordon says.
How much are eye miniatures worth? Retail prices range from $2,500 for a more simple miniature to $10,000 for pieces that have more sophisticated portraits and/or more gemstones.
How can a retailer add eye miniatures to their antique jewelry offerings? Given the complex laws surrounding ivory and the existence of fakes, Gordon gives advice for retailers that is good to follow across all product categories: find a trusted supplier.
Two Gordon recommends are Lenore Dailey and The Three Graces.
“There are many, many fakes out there,” she cautions.
She says some are portraits that have been generated on very high-quality, modern printers while others were cut out from full-sized portraits and remounted falsely as eye miniatures. One word of advice: if there’s a nose, it’s an indication that it’s probably not a genuine miniature but, rather, was part of a larger portrait at one time.
The History Behind … is a new monthly feature for National Jeweler that aims to educate readers on antique jewelry. The September feature will focus on Georgian-era mourning jewelry.
More on Trends
The Latest
MajorsApr 01, 2025
QVC Group to Cut 900 Jobs in the U.S.The layoffs come amid the TV shopping channel’s efforts to restructure and focus on live shopping through social media.
Events & AwardsApr 01, 2025
U.S. Antique Shows Adds Fall Show in FloridaThe debut event will take place in Miami’s Coconut Grove neighborhood this fall.
Brought to you by
The Heart of the Industry: Giving Bench Jewelers the Recognition They DeserveBench jewelers spend years honing their skills, Jewelers of America’s Certification validates their talents.
Events & AwardsApr 01, 2025
TJS to Host Discussion on Jewelry Industry’s Labor ShortageThe roundtable will take place May 17 ahead of the trade show’s welcome dinner.
Weekly QuizMar 27, 2025
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
CollectionsApr 01, 2025
Monica Rich Kosann Says ‘Good Grief’ in Peanuts Jewelry CollectionThe “Peanuts x Monica Rich Kosann” collection features the comic strip’s classic vocabulary across 10 bracelet designs.
Recorded WebinarsMar 31, 2025
Watch: What Do We Mean When We Say ‘Recycled’ Gold?Three industry experts dive into the complexities of the material often marketed as an “ethical” alternative for metal in jewelry.
Brought to you by
Natural Diamonds Should Mean MoreNatural diamonds mean more than lab-grown, but when every cut is ideal, they all look the same. Customers want more—Facets of Fire delivers.
MajorsMar 31, 2025
Lashbrook Expands Into Luxury Golf Gifts With AcquisitionThe Utah-based company known for making wedding bands has acquired Doubloon Golf.
WatchesMar 31, 2025
Bulgari CEO Jean-Christophe Babin Will Also Head LVMH WatchesThe longtime luxury executive led one of LVMH’s watch brands, TAG Heuer, for 12 years before taking over Bulgari in 2013.
CrimeMar 28, 2025
2 Suspects Arrested in $1.7M Smash-and-Grab Robbery of NY Jewelry StoreAuthorities said the robbers fled with jewelry and 70 Rolex watches, later taking pictures of themselves posing with big stacks of cash.
SourcingMar 28, 2025
19th-Century Jade Book Now Available in EnglishLotus Gemology founder Richard W. Hughes has translated Heinrich Fischer’s 1880 book “Nephrit und Jadeit” from its original German.
CollectionsMar 28, 2025
Piece of the Week: Löf’s ‘The Valentine’ RingThe ring's design features contrasting lines influenced by work from architecture-inspired photographer Nikola Olic.
SurveysMar 27, 2025
Consumer Confidence Falls in March Amid ‘Gloomy’ OutlookThe Conference Board’s index fell as consumers continued to worry about the impact of tariffs, the labor market, and the price of eggs.
AuctionsMar 27, 2025
300-Year-Old Ring Linked to Witch Trial Judge Goes Unsold at Auction However, two medieval jewels surpassed estimates at Noonans Mayfair’s recent jewelry auction in London.
WatchesMar 27, 2025
Austin Butler Joins Breitling as Brand AmbassadorThe Oscar-nominated actor debuted in the campaign for the new “Top Time B31” collection, which introduced Breitling’s Caliber B31.
SourcingMar 27, 2025
Susan Jacques, Gaetano Cavalieri to Headline 2025 ICA Congress The Congress is scheduled to take place May 19-22 in Brasilia, Brazil.
IndependentsMar 26, 2025
Bailey’s Fine Jewelry Acquires Fellow NC Independent JewelerThe family-owned retailer is the new owner of Morrison Smith Jewelers in Charlotte, North Carolina.
WatchesMar 26, 2025
Bulova Celebrates 150th Anniversary With Art Deco WatchesThe “150 Art Deco” collection features a Miss America timepiece and a pocket watch from the brand’s Archive Series.
MajorsMar 26, 2025
QVC Group Appoints New PresidentAlex Wellen, formerly CEO and president of MotorTrend Group, has taken on the role.
Events & AwardsMar 26, 2025
Jewelers of America Announces New Funding Initiative The Impact Initiative is part of the nonprofit association’s new three-year strategic plan.
AuctionsMar 25, 2025
Christie’s To Auction 35-Carat Sapphire, 13-Carat RubyThe ruby and the sapphire, which Christie’s calls a “once-in-a-generation masterpiece,” are part of the upcoming Hong Kong jewelry auction.
CrimeMar 25, 2025
Tiffany & Co. Earrings Swallowed Following Grab-and-Run Theft RecoveredThe two pairs of earrings, snatched from a Tiffany & Co. store in Orlando, Florida, are valued at a combined $769,500.
ColumnistsMar 25, 2025
The Smart Lab: Using Short-Form Videos to Sell More JewelryThe time to start experimenting with video content is now, writes columnist Emmanuel Raheb.
CollectionsMar 24, 2025
Pomellato’s Latest ‘Nudo’ Collections Revamp its Classic DesignFrom striking high jewelry to miniature fine jewelry, the new chapter continues to highlight gemstones featuring its signature 57-facet cut.
MajorsMar 24, 2025
4 Top Executives to Depart Signet Jewelers Amid TurnaroundThe jewelry giant is reducing its senior leadership by 30 percent as part of its new turnaround strategy.
WatchesMar 24, 2025
Sotheby's Now Offers Watch Repair ServicesThe auction house's partnership with online watch servicing platform WatchCheck makes repairs convenient and accessible, it said.
