Supplier BulletinNov 05, 2026
Winning With GCAL 8X®: What’s Working at the CounterSponsored by GCAL by Sarine
TrendsAug 20, 2014
The History Behind … eye miniatures
In this new monthly feature, National Jeweler editors delve into the when, where and why of antique jewelry. August’s focus is on eye miniatures, which first became popular in the 1770s.
Some eye miniatures also were mourning jewelry, such as this brooch. The black enamel with gray seed pearls symbolize tears, and the clouds painted around the eye symbolize a passage to heaven, which mark this as a mourning piece.
New York--People generally have one of two reactions when they see an eye miniature staring back at them.
“People either love them or think they are just beautiful, or people think they are creepy,” says Cathy Gordon, an antique jewelry collector and a co-author of Miriam Haskell Jewelry. “People will see them and say, ‘That is very strange.’”
Eye miniatures first began appearing in artists’ logbooks in the 1770s and retained their popularity for nearly 100 years.
In this second installment of The History Behind … , National Jeweler explores the when, where and why of eye miniatures with Gordon, who supports her antique jewelry collecting “habit” by working at Google.
What are eye miniatures? Members of the upper class, first in France then in the U.K., commissioned artists to paint portraits of a loved one’s eye only and had them set into brooches, pendants or rings, sometimes surrounded by gemstones.
Eye miniatures also were put onto toothpick cases and patch boxes (when eye miniatures were popular, many members of the upper class carried small decals with them, which sometimes were used to hide smallpox scars), Gordon says.
These pieces also are known as miniature eye portraits or “Lover’s Eye” jewelry, though Gordon notes the latter is a misnomer, as these portraits weren’t always necessarily of one’s lover. They could depict the eye of a family member or someone else close to the wearer.
When were they popular? The earliest eye miniatures recorded in artists’ log books surfaced in the 1770s and their popularity continued until the 1850s, ceasing as photography became more widespread and the public’s fascination with these eye-only paintings began to wane. “It was a fad, to some extent,” Gordon says.
She adds that the eye miniature did enjoy a very brief revival during the Arts and Crafts movement (about 1880 to 1930), as she has a miniature of a man’s eye dated 1903 in her collection.
Why did people wear eye miniatures? Part of the broader category of sentimental jewelry, the wealthy wore eye miniatures to emphasize friendships or alliances, ease the absence of a loved one who was far away and serve as a reminder of those who had died.
Eye miniature mourning pieces are recognizable by engraved and dated inscriptions; the eye surrounded by clouds (signifying a passage into heaven) or by black or white enamel; symbols of mourning
Editors' Picks
Sponsored by
such as a funerary urn; and in some instances, pearls (symbolizing tears).
What materials were used for these pieces? Here’s where eye miniatures pose a problem for collectors today: they typically were painted on either velum or Asian elephant ivory.
Because of federal ban on the commercial trade of elephant ivory, Gordon says it is extremely difficult to import eye miniatures painted on ivory into the United States today, even when there is appropriate certification and engraved dates on the piece proving it is an antique.
(According to the Jewelers Vigilance Committee, pieces that existed in the U.S. prior to the ban, which took effect in April, may be sold across state lines except in New York and New Jersey, which have banned the sale of elephant ivory. Under these state laws, antiques comprised of less than 20 percent elephant ivory can be sold but it requires the proper permit and proof of provenance.)
Pearls were the most commonly used stone for eye miniatures. Garnets and amethysts also were popular, as were coral and turquoise. Diamonds were used but rarely, Gordon says.
How much are eye miniatures worth? Retail prices range from $2,500 for a more simple miniature to $10,000 for pieces that have more sophisticated portraits and/or more gemstones.
How can a retailer add eye miniatures to their antique jewelry offerings? Given the complex laws surrounding ivory and the existence of fakes, Gordon gives advice for retailers that is good to follow across all product categories: find a trusted supplier.
Two Gordon recommends are Lenore Dailey and The Three Graces.
“There are many, many fakes out there,” she cautions.
She says some are portraits that have been generated on very high-quality, modern printers while others were cut out from full-sized portraits and remounted falsely as eye miniatures. One word of advice: if there’s a nose, it’s an indication that it’s probably not a genuine miniature but, rather, was part of a larger portrait at one time.
The History Behind … is a new monthly feature for National Jeweler that aims to educate readers on antique jewelry. The September feature will focus on Georgian-era mourning jewelry.
More on Trends
The Latest
SurveysNov 05, 2026
What Retailers Should Know About Holiday Shoppers This YearFrom shrinking budgets to AI elves, here are five takeaways from holiday reports by Bain, Adobe, Mastercard, NRF, and insights from YouGov.
CollectionsNov 05, 2026
Judi Powers, Russell Jones Unleash Joy With New CollaborationThe designers combined their talents for Little Pet Portraits, hand-painted miniatures of our best friends set in a piece of jewelry.
Brought to you by
How Overnight Mountings’ Bridal Builder Makes Custom Engagement Ring Design Easier to SellWith customization becoming more expected in engagement ring shopping, the Bridal Builder makes the process tangible.
FinancialsNov 05, 2026
Brilliant Earth Continued to Resonate With High-Income Shoppers in Q3Its non-bridal fine jewelry remains the star of the show, recently launching new collections inspired by Elizabeth Taylor and Jane Goodall.
Weekly QuizOct 29, 2026
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
MajorsNov 05, 2026
Ariana Grande Stars In Swarovski’s Holiday Campaign“Joy: The Swarovski Musical” features Ariana Grande as the leading lady in scenes inspired by classic musical montages.
GradingNov 05, 2026
GIA to Offer Next-Day Holiday ServicesThe lab will bring back its complimentary next-day service for some reports starting next week.
Brought to you by
A Diamond Is Forever Launches 2026 Holiday Campaign Championing Natural DiamondsA Diamond Is Forever's holiday campaign reimagines natural diamond icons for a new generation celebrating individuality.
CrimeNov 04, 2026
$250K+ in Undeclared Cartier Jewelry Seized at Philadelphia AirportA Pennsylvania woman failed to declare a ring and a bracelet, discarding the boxes and receipts to conceal the purchases, officials said.
FinancialsNov 04, 2026
Pandora’s Q3 Sales Up 7% Amid Focus on DesignNew collections and relevant marketing pushed the company forward, while Pandora’s lab-grown diamond sales continue to lag.
Events & AwardsNov 04, 2026
NYC Jewelry Week 2026 Is the Largest Edition YetThe citywide celebration, slated for Nov. 16-22, is set to host more than 175 events, including live jewelry-making demos.
MajorsNov 04, 2026
Bergdorf Goodman Names New PresidentLanessa Elrod, former president and CEO of Louis Vuitton Americas, has stepped into the role as the retailer celebrates 125 years.
AuctionsNov 03, 2026
Infinity Gauntlet Set With 170+ Carats of Colored Gemstones Up for AuctionA replica of one of the most powerful objects in the Marvel Cinematic Universe, the glove is heading to auction next month in Abu Dhabi.
IndependentsNov 03, 2026
Longtime Jewelry Marketer Arthur Klein Dies at 89Klein, who had his own marketing agency and worked for Gabriel & Co. and Trans American Diamond, is remembered as a kind man.
IndependentsNov 03, 2026
Zadok Jewelers Toasts To 50 Years With Diamond Bracelet GiveawayTo enter the giveaway, locals can purchase a featured beverage from one of eight participating restaurants in Houston and Austin, Texas.
Events & AwardsNov 03, 2026
David Yurman Gem Awards Grant Opens 2027 ApplicationsThe grant recipient will be awarded $50,000 as well as mentoring meetings with executives at David Yurman and other industry executives.
Events & AwardsNov 03, 2026
NAJA, Instappraise Name 2026 Scholarship WinnersThe winners include a non-NAJA member seeking training, a member beginning NAJA courses, and a member becoming a Certified Master Appraiser.
AuctionsNov 02, 2026
197-Carat ‘Romanov Sapphire’ Heads to Sotheby’s GenevaThe rare jewel, which has links to Russia’s Romanov dynasty, is estimated to fetch up to $2 million.
CrimeNov 02, 2026
Customs Seizes More Than 400 Fake Audemars Piguet WatchesIt is one of several seizures of counterfeit jewelry and watches by U.S. Customs and Border Protection officials in Louisville this year.
MajorsNov 02, 2026
Lawrence Bock, Caryl Capeci, Amanda Coleman-Phelps Join JA Board Jewelers of America announced the additions to its board of directors following its annual general meeting, held last week.
CollectionsNov 02, 2026
Olympian Kristi Yamaguchi, Heller Jewelers Expand ‘Always Dream’ CollectionThe jewelry collection supports Yamaguchi’s Always Dream foundation, which provides reading and educational resources to families in need.
Events & AwardsOct 30, 2026
Illuminating Carved Paraiba Pendant, Suite of Moonstones Wow at Spectrum AwardsSpectrum’s “Best of Show” honors went to a 101-carat Paraiba carved to look like Medusa that has a magnet-activated LED light.
MajorsOct 30, 2026
The RealReal Hires Former eBay Exec as New Chief Merchandising OfficerAlexis Hoopes expanded eBay’s “Authenticity Guarantee” program during her tenure.
WatchesOct 29, 2026
Bucherer Opens Rolex Boutique in Washington StateThe Rolex-owned retailer’s new 4,700-square-foot store’s façade honors the Pacific Northwest’s evergreen forests.
MajorsOct 29, 2026
Gesswein Hires Longtime Bench Jeweler, Educator Ann CahoonCahoon was appointed strategic account and educational program manager at Gesswein, which recently joined Continental Buying Group.
MajorsOct 29, 2026
Amanda Seyfried Stars In Tiffany & Co.’s Holiday CampaignTiffany & Co.’s latest ambassador makes her debut in its “Love Is a Gift” holiday campaign.
EditorsOct 28, 2026
These Wicked Jewels Will Cast a Spell on YouFor her annual Halloween story, Senior Editor Lenore Fedow highlights bewitching jewels fit for a witch that go from day to unholy night.
