CollectionsApr 25, 2025
Sylvie Looks to Water in New Sculptural Bridal Collection“Shell Auranova” is the next generation of the brand’s bridal line, featuring half-bezel engagement rings with bold and fluid designs.
TrendsAug 20, 2014
The History Behind … eye miniatures
In this new monthly feature, National Jeweler editors delve into the when, where and why of antique jewelry. August’s focus is on eye miniatures, which first became popular in the 1770s.
Some eye miniatures also were mourning jewelry, such as this brooch. The black enamel with gray seed pearls symbolize tears, and the clouds painted around the eye symbolize a passage to heaven, which mark this as a mourning piece.
New York--People generally have one of two reactions when they see an eye miniature staring back at them.
“People either love them or think they are just beautiful, or people think they are creepy,” says Cathy Gordon, an antique jewelry collector and a co-author of Miriam Haskell Jewelry. “People will see them and say, ‘That is very strange.’”
Eye miniatures first began appearing in artists’ logbooks in the 1770s and retained their popularity for nearly 100 years.
In this second installment of The History Behind … , National Jeweler explores the when, where and why of eye miniatures with Gordon, who supports her antique jewelry collecting “habit” by working at Google.
What are eye miniatures? Members of the upper class, first in France then in the U.K., commissioned artists to paint portraits of a loved one’s eye only and had them set into brooches, pendants or rings, sometimes surrounded by gemstones.
Eye miniatures also were put onto toothpick cases and patch boxes (when eye miniatures were popular, many members of the upper class carried small decals with them, which sometimes were used to hide smallpox scars), Gordon says.
These pieces also are known as miniature eye portraits or “Lover’s Eye” jewelry, though Gordon notes the latter is a misnomer, as these portraits weren’t always necessarily of one’s lover. They could depict the eye of a family member or someone else close to the wearer.
When were they popular? The earliest eye miniatures recorded in artists’ log books surfaced in the 1770s and their popularity continued until the 1850s, ceasing as photography became more widespread and the public’s fascination with these eye-only paintings began to wane. “It was a fad, to some extent,” Gordon says.
She adds that the eye miniature did enjoy a very brief revival during the Arts and Crafts movement (about 1880 to 1930), as she has a miniature of a man’s eye dated 1903 in her collection.
Why did people wear eye miniatures? Part of the broader category of sentimental jewelry, the wealthy wore eye miniatures to emphasize friendships or alliances, ease the absence of a loved one who was far away and serve as a reminder of those who had died.
Eye miniature mourning pieces are recognizable by engraved and dated inscriptions; the eye surrounded by clouds (signifying a passage into heaven) or by black or white enamel; symbols of mourning
such as a funerary urn; and in some instances, pearls (symbolizing tears).
What materials were used for these pieces? Here’s where eye miniatures pose a problem for collectors today: they typically were painted on either velum or Asian elephant ivory.
Because of federal ban on the commercial trade of elephant ivory, Gordon says it is extremely difficult to import eye miniatures painted on ivory into the United States today, even when there is appropriate certification and engraved dates on the piece proving it is an antique.
(According to the Jewelers Vigilance Committee, pieces that existed in the U.S. prior to the ban, which took effect in April, may be sold across state lines except in New York and New Jersey, which have banned the sale of elephant ivory. Under these state laws, antiques comprised of less than 20 percent elephant ivory can be sold but it requires the proper permit and proof of provenance.)
Pearls were the most commonly used stone for eye miniatures. Garnets and amethysts also were popular, as were coral and turquoise. Diamonds were used but rarely, Gordon says.
How much are eye miniatures worth? Retail prices range from $2,500 for a more simple miniature to $10,000 for pieces that have more sophisticated portraits and/or more gemstones.
How can a retailer add eye miniatures to their antique jewelry offerings? Given the complex laws surrounding ivory and the existence of fakes, Gordon gives advice for retailers that is good to follow across all product categories: find a trusted supplier.
Two Gordon recommends are Lenore Dailey and The Three Graces.
“There are many, many fakes out there,” she cautions.
She says some are portraits that have been generated on very high-quality, modern printers while others were cut out from full-sized portraits and remounted falsely as eye miniatures. One word of advice: if there’s a nose, it’s an indication that it’s probably not a genuine miniature but, rather, was part of a larger portrait at one time.
The History Behind … is a new monthly feature for National Jeweler that aims to educate readers on antique jewelry. The September feature will focus on Georgian-era mourning jewelry.
More on Trends
The Latest
FinancialsApr 25, 2025
Kering’s Jewelry Brands Persevere as Q1 Sales Sink 14%Boucheron and Pomellato performed well in an otherwise bleak quarter for Kering amid struggles at Gucci.
EditorsApr 25, 2025
Piece of the Week: Deborah Meyers Experience’s ‘The Birds’ EarringsDesigner Deborah Meyers created her birds from oxidized sterling silver, rose-cut diamond eyes, and Akoya Keshi pearl feathers.
Brought to you by
Emerging Jewelers Accelerator Program Announces Second Cohort of Aspiring Jewelry Entrepreneurs Six new retail businesses were selected for the 2025 program, which began in January.
SourcingApr 25, 2025
De Beers Sales, Production Fall in Q1 Amid UncertaintyThe company said it expects sightholders to remain “cautious” with their purchasing due to all the unknowns around the U.S. tariffs.
Weekly QuizApr 24, 2025
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Supplier BulletinApr 24, 2025
Protect Your Customers and Your BusinessSponsored by the Gemological Institute of America
EditorsApr 24, 2025
Q&A: Wolf’s CEO Talks U.S. ExpansionSimon Wolf shares why the time was right to open a new office here, what he looks for in a retail partner, and why he loves U.S. consumers.
Brought to you by
Protect Your Customers and Your BusinessThe risk of laboratory-grown diamonds being falsely presented as natural diamonds presents a very significant danger to consumer trust.
IndependentsApr 24, 2025
Longtime Iowa Jeweler Herman Ginsberg Dies at 99 A third-generation jeweler, Ginsberg worked at his family’s store, Ginsberg Jewelers, from 1948 until his retirement in 2019.
FinancialsApr 24, 2025
Charles & Colvard Delisted From Nasdaq Due to NoncomplianceThe company failed to file its quarterly reports in a timely manner.
SourcingApr 24, 2025
Young Diamantaires Transition to NonprofitThe organization also announced its board of directors.
MajorsApr 23, 2025
Bulgari Doubles Size of Jewelry Factory in ItalyLocated in Valenza, the now 355,000-square-foot facility includes a new jewelry school that’s open to the public, Scuola Bulgari.
Events & AwardsApr 23, 2025
PDPaola Creative Director Wins FGI’s ‘Rising Star’ AwardPaola Sasplugas, co-founder of the Barcelona-based jewelry brand, received the Fine Jewelry Award.
AuctionsApr 23, 2025
Rare Custom Rolex Daytona Heads to AuctionA platinum Zenith-powered Daytona commissioned in the late ‘90s will headline Sotheby’s Important Watches sale in Geneva next month.
MajorsApr 23, 2025
David Yurman’s New Campaign Stars Carmelo Anthony, Jaylen BrownThe basketball stars wear men’s jewelry from the “Curb Chain” collection.
MajorsApr 22, 2025
Zales’ Rebrand Takes Playful Approach to Fine JewelryThe Signet Jewelers-owned retailer wants to encourage younger shoppers to wear fine jewelry every day, not just on special occasions.
AuctionsApr 22, 2025
Christie’s to Auction JAR Jewelry CollectionThe 21 pieces, all from a private collector, will be offered at its Magnificent Jewels auction next month.
ColumnistsApr 22, 2025
The PR Adviser: Building Buzz Through Word of MouthLilian Raji answers a question from a reader who is looking to grow her jewelry business but has a limited marketing budget.
GradingApr 22, 2025
Avi Levy Is GCAL By Sarine’s New Chief Growth OfficerGCAL by Sarine created the new role to sharpen the company’s focus on strategic partnerships and scalable expansion.
IndependentsApr 22, 2025
Brinker’s Jewelers Acquires Fellow IndependentThe Indiana jeweler has acquired Scottsdale Fine Jewelers in Scottsdale, Arizona.
Events & AwardsApr 21, 2025
An Exhibition Exploring the History of Cartier Is Now on Display“Cartier: Design, Craft, and Legacy” opened earlier this month at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London.
IndependentsApr 21, 2025
New York Jeweler to Close After 111 YearsVan Cott Jewelers in Vestal, New York, is hosting a going-out-of-business sale.
IndependentsApr 21, 2025
IJO Names New Director of Vendor Relations, Merchandise StrategyIndustry veteran Samantha Larson has held leadership roles at Borsheims, McTeigue & McClelland, Stuller, and Long’s Jewelers.
Events & AwardsApr 21, 2025
Jewelers of Louisiana, Mississippi Jewelers Association to Co-Host ConventionThe two organizations will hold the educational event together this fall in Mississippi.
Events & AwardsApr 18, 2025
Daymond John to Give Keynote at JCK Las VegasThe entrepreneur and “Shark Tank” star will share his top tips for success.
CollectionsApr 18, 2025
Piece of the Week: Dukachi’s ‘Easter Bread’ PendantThe Ukrainian brand’s new pendant is modeled after a traditional paska, a pastry often baked for Easter in Eastern European cultures.
IndependentsApr 18, 2025
Bremer Jewelry to Reveal Renovated StoreThe jeweler has announced a grand reopening for its recently remodeled location in Peoria, Illinois.
