CollectionsJul 17, 2025
2026 Winter Olympic Medal Design Symbolizes UnityThe medals feature a split-texture design highlighting the Games’ first time being hosted by two cities and the athletes’ journeys.
TrendsJul 22, 2015
The History Behind … Mid-century Modern jewelry
National Jeweler’s latest installment of The History Behind delves into the where, why and how of jewelry crafted in the 1940s and 1950s.
A bracelet by jewelry designer Earl Pardon, one of the most-well known Modernist designers; this piece was included in a recent exhibition of Pardon’s work at the High Museum in Atlanta. (Photo courtesy of the Aaron Faber Gallery)
New York--Mid-century Modernism is marked by clean lines and bold, abstract geometric shapes; think the furniture in Sterling Cooper’s first office on Mad Men.
Right now, the simple shapes of Mid-century Modernism, a movement that peaked in the 1950s, are enjoying a renaissance in home décor and furniture, yet the jewelry of this period hasn’t come back into style with the same force.
That doesn’t mean the designs are lost forever. Jewelry created by artists such as sculptor Alexander Calder still sell for hundreds of thousands at auction, and brands like Georg Jensen continue making pieces with the same clean aesthetic.
Patricia Faber, who has co-owned the Aaron Faber Gallery in New York with her husband since 1974, discussed these designers and more with National Jeweler for the latest installment of The History Behind.
To what time period does Mid-Century Modernism correspond? Although well-known jewelry artisan Margaret De Patta was making jewelry in a Modernist style in the late 1930s, Faber said it really became a movement in the 1940s after the end of World War II.
Prior to this, there was the era of Art Deco design and, following that, the period that came to be known as Retro Modern. Faber said the Retro Modern era was all about over-the-top, heavy designs, many of which were crafted in rose gold because of war-time restrictions on silver and platinum use. Designers turned to copper because its supply was not limited, alloying it with gold and ultimately creating a lot of rose-colored jewelry.
Faber referred to these Retro Modern pieces as “Joan Crawford jewelry” in reference to the movie star known for wearing big, bold jewelry--mostly her own--in films of this era.
What does the transition from the style of Retro Modern to Mid-century Modernism tell us about what was going in society at this time? Like all movements in fashion, including jewelry, “It’s a rejection of the last thing,” Faber observed.
Designers in the United States, as well as those from Scandinavian countries and the silversmiths of Mexico, went for sleeker designs in an effort to distance themselves from the heavy statement pieces popular in the early 1940s.
In the U.S., the fresh designs of Mid-century Modernism also represented a “new freedom,” Faber said.
Prior to World War II, there was the Great Depression, which forced families to stay together, perhaps sometimes longer than they would
have liked. Then the war came, and people watched their loved ones leave not knowing if they’d ever see them again.
When World War II ended, it set people free from these concerns and also marked the beginning of a period of perhaps-unparalleled prosperity in the U.S. “They had money and they had a real freedom to make their own life, (to) not be so beholden to not having money,” Faber says.
There was a new economy, relationships and mobility in America during this time, and a new look in jewelry to go along with it.
Who bought Mid-century Modern jewelry? Like Art Nouveau jewelry, the pieces crafted in this era appealed to a very specific consumer; they were not for everyone.
The designs were strong, as the pieces were created from the point of the view of the designer. “It is not jewelry to fulfill a function. It’s not bridal jewelry or necklaces for Mother’s Day,” Faber said. “It is coming from a design perspective.”
Geometric designs were a key theme in Mid-century Modernism. Most of the jewelry was crafted in silver, partly due to Scandinavian influence (Scandinavian jewelers traditionally have worked in silver) but also the Bauhaus movement, which called on art in all forms to be affordable.
Is there one decade that was considered the peak for Mid-century Modernism? The 1950s are considered the peak for this kind of design in jewelry. Faber said that while Mid-century styles have come back en vogue for furniture and lighting through the years, the jewelry designs of this era have not enjoyed the same resurgence.
How can jewelers add Mid-century Modern jewelry to their inventory? This jewelry can be sourced through basically any of the marketplaces that deal in estate pieces, including antique and estate jewelry shows and auctions.
“I so strongly recommend jewelers who are selling contemporary jewelry combine something old and something new,” Faber said, adding that antique and estate pieces are “incredible conversation starters.”
It’s something Faber and her husband do in their New York gallery, which focuses on the work of studio jewelers. They find that the two categories, old and new, support each other.
“It puts that story visually on display for people walking in: where is (the design inspiration for) today’s jewelry from, why is it interesting.”
More on Trends
The Latest
Supplier BulletinJul 17, 2025
The INSTORE Jewelry Show 2025: Your Holiday Preparations, All Wrapped Up! Sponsored by The INSTORE Jewelry Show 2025
SurveysJul 17, 2025
The Most Recommended Brands in the World, According to YouGovGlobally, travel and transportation brands reigned, while in the U.S., alcoholic beverage companies and a lingerie brand took the top spots.
Brought to you by
Investing in the Next Generation of Bench JewelersThe Seymour & Evelyn Holtzman Bench Scholarship from Jewelers of America returns for a second year.
IndependentsJul 17, 2025
Gina Ferranti of GiGi Ferranti Jewelry Dies at 59The Brooklyn-based jewelry designer is remembered as a true artist and a rare talent.
Weekly QuizJul 17, 2025
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
SourcingJul 17, 2025
Rio Tinto Names New CEO, Production Rises at DiavikProduction at the mine in Canada’s Northwest Territories topped 1 million carats in Q2, the third consecutive quarter of growth.
Events & AwardsJul 17, 2025
JA to Hold Learning Workshops This FallA new slate of Learning Workshops will take place in Oklahoma, Mississippi, and Georgia.
Brought to you by
Jewelers of America is Headed to Las Vegas for JCK 2025The countdown is on for the JCK Las Vegas Show and JA is pulling out all the stops.
SurveysJul 16, 2025
Signet Jewelers Falls Lower on NRF’s ‘Top 100’ Retailers ListThe middle class is changing its approach to buying jewelry and affordable luxury goods, the NRF said.
FinancialsJul 16, 2025
Richemont’s Jewelry Sales Up 7% in Q1It marks the third consecutive quarter of growth for Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Buccellati, and Vhernier.
WatchesJul 16, 2025
The Top-Selling Rolex Models of the Last 15 Years, According to Bob’s Watches The reseller’s market trends report, based on its sales data, also shows exactly how much Rolex prices have jumped since 2010.
AuctionsJul 16, 2025
Christie’s To Honor Dinh Van With ExhibitionThe auction house will be hosting a retrospective paying tribute to jeweler Jean Dinh Van and his company’s 60th anniversary.
IndependentsJul 16, 2025
Clyde Duneier Ushers In Fourth GenerationJake Duneier and Danielle Duneier-Goldberg have stepped into the roles of CEO and president, respectively.
CollectionsJul 15, 2025
Boucheron’s New High Jewelry Calls Attention to Nature’s ImpermanenceThe “Impermanence” collection contemplates nature through the Japanese art of Ikebana (flower arranging) and philosophy of wabi-sabi.
MajorsJul 15, 2025
James Avery Expands to 2 More StatesThe Texas-based jewelry retailer has set up shop in Tennessee and Arizona.
Events & AwardsJul 15, 2025
Neiman Marcus Vet Joins Couture as Brand Director Eric Ford will step into the role, bringing with him decades of experience.
MajorsJul 15, 2025
Ben Bridge Jeweler Acquires Olympic ManufacturingIn addition to improved capabilities, the acquisition will allow the jeweler to offer support to other independent jewelers.
CollectionsJul 15, 2025
Guzema Debuts First Colored Gemstone JewelryThe “Celestial Blue” capsule collection campaign features Olympian Kateryna Sadurska.
MajorsJul 14, 2025
Nanis Opens First StoreThe seasonal store, located in Mykonos, Greece, offers exclusive events, personal styling, and curated experiences.
IndependentsJul 14, 2025
It’s the Summer of Love at Long’s JewelersThe New England jeweler is hosting a bridal event for the month of August.
SourcingJul 14, 2025
Ethical Gem Fair Heads to SeattleThe trade-only event will host its debut fair in the Emerald City later this month.
Events & AwardsJul 11, 2025
The Edge’s Annual Conference Returns in SeptemberIts sessions will focus on inventory strategies, staff performance, retention and acquisition, emerging market trends, and more.
CollectionsJul 11, 2025
Piece of the Week: Miseno’s ‘Arco’ EarringsFor its 10th anniversary, Miseno designed the “Arco” earrings based on the Arco Felice, an arch conceptualized in A.D. 95 in Miseno, Italy.
Policies & IssuesJul 11, 2025
James Avery to Donate $1M to Texas Hill Country Relief EffortsThe jewelry company is one of several contributing to relief efforts in the region after the recent floods.
CollectionsJul 10, 2025
Penny Preville Celebrates 5 Decades of Jewelry DesignThe brand is marking its 50th anniversary with a limited-edition bangle, high jewelry suites, new collections, and more.
IndependentsJul 10, 2025
Steven Goldfarb to Retire, Close Alvin Goldfarb JewelerGoldfarb said changes in the industry, coupled with his age and the updates needed to modernize his business, drove his decision.
MajorsJul 10, 2025
LVMH Names New Chairman, CEO of the AmericasLongtime LVMH executive Michael Burke has stepped into the role.
