SourcingOct 02, 2026
De Beers, National Geographic Society Renew Okavango Eternal Partnership The partnership, a pledge to protect Africa’s Okavango River Basin, has been extended for an additional five years.
TrendsJul 22, 2015
The History Behind … Mid-century Modern jewelry
National Jeweler’s latest installment of The History Behind delves into the where, why and how of jewelry crafted in the 1940s and 1950s.
A bracelet by jewelry designer Earl Pardon, one of the most-well known Modernist designers; this piece was included in a recent exhibition of Pardon’s work at the High Museum in Atlanta. (Photo courtesy of the Aaron Faber Gallery)
New York--Mid-century Modernism is marked by clean lines and bold, abstract geometric shapes; think the furniture in Sterling Cooper’s first office on Mad Men.
Right now, the simple shapes of Mid-century Modernism, a movement that peaked in the 1950s, are enjoying a renaissance in home décor and furniture, yet the jewelry of this period hasn’t come back into style with the same force.
That doesn’t mean the designs are lost forever. Jewelry created by artists such as sculptor Alexander Calder still sell for hundreds of thousands at auction, and brands like Georg Jensen continue making pieces with the same clean aesthetic.
Patricia Faber, who has co-owned the Aaron Faber Gallery in New York with her husband since 1974, discussed these designers and more with National Jeweler for the latest installment of The History Behind.
To what time period does Mid-Century Modernism correspond? Although well-known jewelry artisan Margaret De Patta was making jewelry in a Modernist style in the late 1930s, Faber said it really became a movement in the 1940s after the end of World War II.
Prior to this, there was the era of Art Deco design and, following that, the period that came to be known as Retro Modern. Faber said the Retro Modern era was all about over-the-top, heavy designs, many of which were crafted in rose gold because of war-time restrictions on silver and platinum use. Designers turned to copper because its supply was not limited, alloying it with gold and ultimately creating a lot of rose-colored jewelry.
Faber referred to these Retro Modern pieces as “Joan Crawford jewelry” in reference to the movie star known for wearing big, bold jewelry--mostly her own--in films of this era.
What does the transition from the style of Retro Modern to Mid-century Modernism tell us about what was going in society at this time? Like all movements in fashion, including jewelry, “It’s a rejection of the last thing,” Faber observed.
Designers in the United States, as well as those from Scandinavian countries and the silversmiths of Mexico, went for sleeker designs in an effort to distance themselves from the heavy statement pieces popular in the early 1940s.
In the U.S., the fresh designs of Mid-century Modernism also represented a “new freedom,” Faber said.
Prior to World War II, there was the Great Depression, which forced families to stay together, perhaps sometimes longer than they would
Editors' Picks
Sponsored by
have liked. Then the war came, and people watched their loved ones leave not knowing if they’d ever see them again.
When World War II ended, it set people free from these concerns and also marked the beginning of a period of perhaps-unparalleled prosperity in the U.S. “They had money and they had a real freedom to make their own life, (to) not be so beholden to not having money,” Faber says.
There was a new economy, relationships and mobility in America during this time, and a new look in jewelry to go along with it.
Who bought Mid-century Modern jewelry? Like Art Nouveau jewelry, the pieces crafted in this era appealed to a very specific consumer; they were not for everyone.
The designs were strong, as the pieces were created from the point of the view of the designer. “It is not jewelry to fulfill a function. It’s not bridal jewelry or necklaces for Mother’s Day,” Faber said. “It is coming from a design perspective.”
Geometric designs were a key theme in Mid-century Modernism. Most of the jewelry was crafted in silver, partly due to Scandinavian influence (Scandinavian jewelers traditionally have worked in silver) but also the Bauhaus movement, which called on art in all forms to be affordable.
Is there one decade that was considered the peak for Mid-century Modernism? The 1950s are considered the peak for this kind of design in jewelry. Faber said that while Mid-century styles have come back en vogue for furniture and lighting through the years, the jewelry designs of this era have not enjoyed the same resurgence.
How can jewelers add Mid-century Modern jewelry to their inventory? This jewelry can be sourced through basically any of the marketplaces that deal in estate pieces, including antique and estate jewelry shows and auctions.
“I so strongly recommend jewelers who are selling contemporary jewelry combine something old and something new,” Faber said, adding that antique and estate pieces are “incredible conversation starters.”
It’s something Faber and her husband do in their New York gallery, which focuses on the work of studio jewelers. They find that the two categories, old and new, support each other.
“It puts that story visually on display for people walking in: where is (the design inspiration for) today’s jewelry from, why is it interesting.”
More on Trends
The Latest
MajorsOct 02, 2026
Pandora Opens New $150M Manufacturing Facility in VietnamThe new facility, its first outside of Thailand, will boost its manufacturing capacity by 50 percent.
CrimeOct 01, 2026
Police Looking for 4 Suspects in $600K Smash-and-Grab RobberyDubai Jewelers in Springfield, Virginia, was once again the target of an armed robbery.
Brought to you by
Meet Gemology’s Next Generation Microscope: GIA® Gemolite® NXT Professional EditionExperience gemstones with greater precision and comfort than ever before.
SurveysOct 01, 2026
Rolex Ranks Among Most Recommended Brands in US, Survey Says YouGov’s 2026 U.S. Most Recommended Brands report’s out, and a fast-fashion giant is sitting at No. 1 while Rolex is just shy of the top 5.
Weekly QuizOct 01, 2026
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
SourcingOct 01, 2026
Columbia Gem House Opens ‘Cutting Toward Change’ FundraiserProceeds from its jewelry raffle will benefit an organization working in India to combat silicosis, a lung disease affecting stone cutters.
TrendsOct 01, 2026
Amanda’s Style File: October’s Color Range This roundup of birthstone jewelry for October features vibrant tourmalines and opals with personality.
Brought to you by
Your Piece Could Be the One Editors Talk AboutSubmit your pieces for a chance to win in this year's competition.
SourcingSep 30, 2026
Botswana’s President, De Beers CEO Say Diamond Demand Is RecoveringPresident Duma Boko spoke at back-to-back events in the city last week, touting Botswana’s stability and the diamond “bounceback.”
CollectionsSep 30, 2026
Oscar Heyman’s Holiday Book Is ‘A Living Archive’ The catalog showcases 112 new, one-of-a-kind pieces amid highlights from the jeweler’s historic archive.
SourcingSep 30, 2026
Gemfields Posts $98.5M Loss, Writes Down Value of Ruby MineIts Montepuez Ruby Mining operation in Mozambique, which is not yielding enough high-quality rubies, has taken a $125 million hit.
SurveysSep 30, 2026
Consumer Confidence Falls to 12-Year Low in SeptemberThose surveyed were worried about the present and the future, with write-in responses mentioning high oil and gas prices.
Events & AwardsSep 30, 2026
Jewelers of America, JA New York to Host Networking EventThe event will take place on the evening of Oct. 26 in New York City.
IndependentsSep 29, 2026
Christy Bromberg, Longtime Gift Buyer for Underwood Jewelers, Dies at 68She is remembered for her joie de vivre, upbeat personality, genuine interest in other people, and love of the Alabama Crimson Tide.
AuctionsSep 29, 2026
Dionne Warwick’s Jewelry Goes Up for AuctionOnline bidding is open now for Julien’s sale of items owned by the “Walk On By” singer, whose final album comes out this fall.
Events & AwardsSep 29, 2026
Matt Stuller to Receive 2027 Gem Award for Lifetime AchievementThe founder and executive chairman of Stuller Inc. is being honored for his impact on the jewelry industry at the 25th annual Gem Awards.
ColumnistsSep 29, 2026
Your Holiday Marketing Has a Bridal Blind SpotDecember is the most popular month to propose, and jewelers need to keep that in mind when planning their holiday marketing.
AuctionsSep 29, 2026
If You Love Cats, This Jewelry Auction Is for YouCat ladies of the jewelry world, unite. Sandy Lerner’s collection of cat jewelry and other objects is going up for auction Wednesday.
CollectionsSep 28, 2026
De Beers London Drops Water-Inspired High Jewelry Collection“Vibrations” features several firsts for De Beers’ high jewelry, including the use of chalcedony and diamonds sourced from artisanal miners.
CollectionsSep 28, 2026
Jessica McCormack Turns to Classic Motif for New CollectionThe “Bows” collection features three interpretations of the bow motif designed with Georgian and Victorian influences.
Events & AwardsSep 28, 2026
Guy Borenstein, Troy Underwood Among the Professionals Honored at AGS Conclave 2026The American Gem Society recognized industry members, one Guild, and a law enforcement official for their contributions to jewelry.
FinancialsSep 28, 2026
Instappraise, Jewelers Mutual Look to Simplify Jewelry InsuranceThrough a new system integration, customers can now receive instant personal jewelry insurance quotes at the time of appraisal.
WatchesSep 25, 2026
Smaller Rolex Watches Showing Strength on Secondary Market, Data ShowsFive of the 10 fastest-appreciating Rolex models on Bob’s Watches were Datejust 31 or Lady Datejust watches.
MajorsSep 25, 2026
Sherwood Family Buys Back Daniel’s Jewelers from Private EquityThe Sherwood family and AJS Creations CEO Tejas Shah purchased the jewelry chain back from Palladium Equity Partners.
Lab-GrownSep 25, 2026
Brilliant Earth Collabs with Elizabeth Taylor Estate on Jewelry Collection“The Elizabeth Taylor Collection” uses lab-grown diamonds and gemstones in contemporary designs inspired by the icon.
TrendsSep 25, 2026
A Peek at Taylor Swift’s Game-Day DiamondsThe artist wore Dana Rebecca Designs’ marquise diamond-set gold hoops at the Chiefs game last Sunday. Now they’re our Piece of the Week.
CrimeSep 24, 2026
From Conclave: Security Measures Jewelers Should Be TakingJSA and Jewelers Mutual shared advice on spotting suspicious behavior, combatting cell phone jammers, and staying safe at home.
