EditorsFeb 03, 2025
Best Jewelry Moments From the 2025 Grammy Awards From Lady Gaga’s 1930s Tiffany & Co. necklace to Taylor Swift’s “T,” Michelle Graff recaps the night’s most memorable jewelry looks.
TrendsJul 22, 2015
The History Behind … Mid-century Modern jewelry
National Jeweler’s latest installment of The History Behind delves into the where, why and how of jewelry crafted in the 1940s and 1950s.
A bracelet by jewelry designer Earl Pardon, one of the most-well known Modernist designers; this piece was included in a recent exhibition of Pardon’s work at the High Museum in Atlanta. (Photo courtesy of the Aaron Faber Gallery)
New York--Mid-century Modernism is marked by clean lines and bold, abstract geometric shapes; think the furniture in Sterling Cooper’s first office on Mad Men.
Right now, the simple shapes of Mid-century Modernism, a movement that peaked in the 1950s, are enjoying a renaissance in home décor and furniture, yet the jewelry of this period hasn’t come back into style with the same force.
That doesn’t mean the designs are lost forever. Jewelry created by artists such as sculptor Alexander Calder still sell for hundreds of thousands at auction, and brands like Georg Jensen continue making pieces with the same clean aesthetic.
Patricia Faber, who has co-owned the Aaron Faber Gallery in New York with her husband since 1974, discussed these designers and more with National Jeweler for the latest installment of The History Behind.
To what time period does Mid-Century Modernism correspond? Although well-known jewelry artisan Margaret De Patta was making jewelry in a Modernist style in the late 1930s, Faber said it really became a movement in the 1940s after the end of World War II.
Prior to this, there was the era of Art Deco design and, following that, the period that came to be known as Retro Modern. Faber said the Retro Modern era was all about over-the-top, heavy designs, many of which were crafted in rose gold because of war-time restrictions on silver and platinum use. Designers turned to copper because its supply was not limited, alloying it with gold and ultimately creating a lot of rose-colored jewelry.
Faber referred to these Retro Modern pieces as “Joan Crawford jewelry” in reference to the movie star known for wearing big, bold jewelry--mostly her own--in films of this era.
What does the transition from the style of Retro Modern to Mid-century Modernism tell us about what was going in society at this time? Like all movements in fashion, including jewelry, “It’s a rejection of the last thing,” Faber observed.
Designers in the United States, as well as those from Scandinavian countries and the silversmiths of Mexico, went for sleeker designs in an effort to distance themselves from the heavy statement pieces popular in the early 1940s.
In the U.S., the fresh designs of Mid-century Modernism also represented a “new freedom,” Faber said.
Prior to World War II, there was the Great Depression, which forced families to stay together, perhaps sometimes longer than they would
Editors' Picks
Sponsored by
have liked. Then the war came, and people watched their loved ones leave not knowing if they’d ever see them again.
When World War II ended, it set people free from these concerns and also marked the beginning of a period of perhaps-unparalleled prosperity in the U.S. “They had money and they had a real freedom to make their own life, (to) not be so beholden to not having money,” Faber says.
There was a new economy, relationships and mobility in America during this time, and a new look in jewelry to go along with it.
Who bought Mid-century Modern jewelry? Like Art Nouveau jewelry, the pieces crafted in this era appealed to a very specific consumer; they were not for everyone.
The designs were strong, as the pieces were created from the point of the view of the designer. “It is not jewelry to fulfill a function. It’s not bridal jewelry or necklaces for Mother’s Day,” Faber said. “It is coming from a design perspective.”
Geometric designs were a key theme in Mid-century Modernism. Most of the jewelry was crafted in silver, partly due to Scandinavian influence (Scandinavian jewelers traditionally have worked in silver) but also the Bauhaus movement, which called on art in all forms to be affordable.
Is there one decade that was considered the peak for Mid-century Modernism? The 1950s are considered the peak for this kind of design in jewelry. Faber said that while Mid-century styles have come back en vogue for furniture and lighting through the years, the jewelry designs of this era have not enjoyed the same resurgence.
How can jewelers add Mid-century Modern jewelry to their inventory? This jewelry can be sourced through basically any of the marketplaces that deal in estate pieces, including antique and estate jewelry shows and auctions.
“I so strongly recommend jewelers who are selling contemporary jewelry combine something old and something new,” Faber said, adding that antique and estate pieces are “incredible conversation starters.”
It’s something Faber and her husband do in their New York gallery, which focuses on the work of studio jewelers. They find that the two categories, old and new, support each other.
“It puts that story visually on display for people walking in: where is (the design inspiration for) today’s jewelry from, why is it interesting.”
More on Trends
The Latest
MajorsFeb 03, 2025
Qurate to Close HSN’s Florida HQ Amid RestructuringLayoffs will reportedly start next month as HSN plans to move into QVC’s location in Pennsylvania.
EditorsFeb 03, 2025
Q&A: 5 Jewelry Designers on Shopping the 2025 Tucson Gem ShowsA group of creatives talked to Associate Editor Lauren McLemore about their approach to the annual Tucson gem, mineral, and fossil shows.
Brought to you by
3 Ways to Capitalize on America’s Newfound Love of Colored GemsColored stones are stepping into a jewelry spotlight typically reserved for diamonds—are you ready to sell color?
AuctionsJan 31, 2025
Elizabeth Taylor’s Diamond Bracelet Outshines Estimate at U.K. AuctionThe auction also featured the sale of a Cartier necklace made when Egyptomania was sweeping Great Britain.
Weekly QuizJan 30, 2025
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
CollectionsJan 31, 2025
Piece of the Week: Lalaounis’ Good Luck Charm for 2025The “Blossom Rosette” blooms with love, beauty, and hope for the year ahead.
IndependentsJan 31, 2025
Harvey Rovinsky, Longtime Owner of Bernie Robbins Jewelers, Dies at 77Rovinsky is remembered as a great mentor who made the employees of his stores feel like family.
Brought to you by
3 New Year’s Resolutions for Jewelry Lovers The new year feels like a clean slate, inspiring reflection, hope, and the motivation to become better versions of ourselves.
Events & AwardsJan 31, 2025
Facets of Fire Has a Diamond Challenge for RetailersFor every jeweler who tries their luck, the company will make a donation to Jewelers for Children.
MajorsJan 30, 2025
WJA Chapter Leaders Resign as Fallout From DEI Remarks SnowballsThe boards of at least five chapters have resigned in response to controversial statements the WJA national board president made last month.
Policies & IssuesJan 30, 2025
RJC Executive Director Melanie Grant Is Stepping Down An experienced jewelry writer and curator, Grant led the organization for two years.
CollectionsJan 30, 2025
Pharrell Williams Brings Tahitian Pearls to His New Tiffany & Co. CollectionFive new designs were added, all donning Tahitian cultured pearls and spear-like trident motifs, along with the new “Titan” setting.
Events & AwardsJan 30, 2025
Registration Open for Converge 2025The inaugural event is being co-hosted by the American Gem Society and the Gemological Institute of America.
MajorsJan 30, 2025
24 Karat Club of New York Elects 5 New MembersJewelers of America’s Annie Doresca and AGTA CEO John W. Ford Sr. are among the new members.
CollectionsJan 29, 2025
Boucheron’s High Jewelry Takes the Form of ‘Untamed Nature’The jeweler’s latest high jewelry collection looks into the Boucheron archives to create a “living encyclopedia of high jewelry.”
FinancialsJan 29, 2025
LVMH Watch, Jewelry Sales End the Year DownWatch and jewelry sales slipped 3 percent in 2024, though the luxury conglomerate did see business pick up in the fourth quarter.
MajorsJan 29, 2025
Chanel Names New General Manager of Watches, Fine Jewelry for USOlivier Kessler-Gay will take over the role on March 3.
SurveysJan 29, 2025
Consumer Confidence Slips for Second Consecutive Month It hit a four-month low in January due to concerns about the job market, though consumers remain bullish about the stock market.
Events & AwardsJan 29, 2025
Chris Ploof To Teach Mokume Gane at AJSThe jewelry designer and master metalsmith will present on the ancient Japanese metalworking technique at the Atlanta Jewelry Show in March.
SourcingJan 28, 2025
WFDB Joins Efforts to Promote Natural Diamonds With New CampaignThe “Moments” social media campaign emphasizes the emotional ties between natural diamonds and life’s special milestones.
CollectionsJan 28, 2025
Bliss Lau Celebrates the Intricate Mosaic of Identity in New CollectionThe versatile “As We Are” collection features 14 pieces with interlocking designs allowing for 27 different looks worn around the body.
SourcingJan 28, 2025
Botswana’s First Olympic Gold Medalist Is Now a De Beers Ambassador Letsile Tebogo will help to promote natural diamonds and the good they have done for his country.
Events & AwardsJan 28, 2025
NouvelleBox Show Returns to New York CityThe showcase, in its second year, will feature more than 20 international brands at its curated event from Feb. 2-4.
Recorded WebinarsJan 28, 2025
Watch: Fine Jewelry Market Predictions for 2025 “My Next Question” guests Sherry Smith and Edahn Golan share their 2025 forecasts, from sales and marketing to what retailers should stock.
Events & AwardsJan 28, 2025
Here Is the 2025 AGTA GemFair Tucson Educational LineupThe seminar series covers topics from market trends and colored stone terminology to working with museums and growing an Instagram profile.
MajorsJan 27, 2025
Le Vian Corp. Chairman Larry LeVian, a Man of Faith and Family, Dies at 73 LeVian is remembered for his leadership in the jewelry industry and for being a selfless and compassionate person.
CrimeJan 27, 2025
New Jersey Jeweler Sentenced to 2 1/2 Years for Evading CustomsMonishkumar Kirankumar Doshi Shah pleaded guilty to evading customs on more than $13.5 million of jewelry imported into the U.S.
