Majors

Elsa Peretti, a One-of-a-Kind in Jewelry Design, Dies at 80

MajorsMar 22, 2021

Elsa Peretti, a One-of-a-Kind in Jewelry Design, Dies at 80

Peretti started off modeling and designing for Halston before joining Tiffany in 1974, where she created modern, timeless jewelry.

20210322_Elsa Peretti hero.jpg
Elsa Peretti was a model, jewelry designer and humanitarian best known for the sleek, timeless designs she created over decades at Tiffany & Co. She died last week at age 80. (Photo courtesy of Tiffany & Co.)
Sant Martí Vell, Spain—Elsa Peretti, the famed jewelry designer whose seamless creations will never go out of style, died Thursday of natural causes in the village near Barcelona, Spain where she lived.

She was 80. 

Born May 1, 1940 in Florence, Italy, Peretti was the daughter of Italian oil magnate Ferdinando Peretti and Maria Luisa Pighini.

She was educated in Rome and Switzerland but left home at 21, something that wasn’t often done in Italy at that time.

In a video from 1990 created to coincide with an FIT exhibition honoring the designer, Peretti reads from a letter she wrote to her father when she left home, telling him she was a “major adult” now and “free.”

She moved to Barcelona and started modeling.

In 1968, she relocated to New York City to further her career and made friends with a Studio 54-going crowd that included designer Giorgio di Sant’Angelo, Andy Warhol and Halston.

Her first collection was shown in 1969 alongside the collection of her friend di Sant’ Angelo but it was Halston who became one of the most important influences in her life, according to the video.

She modeled for the fashion designer and designed the sleek vessels that held Halston’s perfume and cosmetics.

In 1974, Halston introduced her to executives at Tiffany & Co., the start of an exclusive collaboration that spanned her entire career and produced countless best-selling designs that are still popular today.

As Peretti put it in the video: “I did something for fun and became a success.”

In late 2012, following tense negotiations, the jeweler and the designer struck a new deal that extended their partnership until 2033 and netted Peretti a one-time payment of more than $47 million, plus annual royalty payments of at least $450,000.

Tiffany also vowed to continue to promote Peretti’s jewelry, and to give it a set amount of showcase space and display it online.

In the video for the FIT exhibition, the designer talked about the inspirations behind some of her most well-known designs.

A friend from Texas gifted Peretti a rattlesnake tail for good luck, which led to her snake design; a trip to India and a love for tiny antique handbags inspired her range of mesh jewelry; and the 17th century Capuchin church cemetery she visited in childhood with her nanny was the inspiration for her bone cuff.

20210322_Elsa Peretti Bone Cuff.jpg
A medium version of Elsa Peretti’s Bone Cuff in 18-karat yellow gold ($16,000). This particular cuff was designed to be worn on the left wrist. (Photo courtesy of Tiffany & Co.)

The Bone Cuff marked its 50th anniversary last year, and Tiffany celebrated by creating a collection of limited-edition and one-of-a-kind versions of some of Peretti’s most recognizable pieces, her mesh bibs and snake lariats among them. 

The iconic, sculptural design also recently got some modern screen time, donned by actress Gal Gadot in last year’s Wonder Woman sequel, “Wonder Woman 1984.” 

Peretti curated the reissue collection herself. Some of the designs included hadn’t been sold in two decades.

“I’m happy to see designs that are so important to me reinvigorated in this way, made even more modern and relevant,” she said in a statement released for the launch of the collection. 

“This is part of the secret of my things—they are still valid.”


Tiffany released the reissue collection in October 2020.

That same month, Peretti announced via her Instagram that she would take a sabbatical for health reasons.

She directed her followers to the Instagram account for The Nando and Elsa Peretti Foundation.

Launched in 2000 in honor of Peretti’s father, who died in 1977, the foundation contributes to a wide range of projects, with a special focus on education, children’s rights, and women’s rights. 

Peretti won numerous awards over the course of her career, including the Coty American Fashion Critics’ Award for Jewelry (1971), the President’s Fellow Award from the Rhode Island School of Design (1981), and the Spirit of Achievement Award from the Albert Einstein College of Medicine (1982).  

In 1990, she had her first major U.S. exhibition, the FIT show celebrating her 15 years with Tiffany.  

She also received an honorary doctorate from FIT in 2001 and Tiffany established the first endowed professorship at the school in her honor, the Elsa Peretti Professorship in Jewelry Design. 

In the video, Peretti revealed the secret behind creating so many well-received, timeless designs—she took her time, and she focused.

“Think about when you design. It’s as simple as that—think, not the phone ringing, you think about what you do. It’s so simple.” 

Michelle Graffis the editor-in-chief at National Jeweler, directing the publication’s coverage both online and in print.

The Latest

GIA iD100® Technology
Supplier BulletinJul 03, 2025
Protect Your Customers and Your Business

Sponsored by the Gemological Institute of America

Shree Ramkrishna Exports
SourcingJul 03, 2025
SRK Announces Its Natural Diamonds Are Now Carbon-Negative

This past year, the manufacturer said it recorded below-zero emissions per carat of natural diamond.

Yeprem Golden Strada Statement Necklace
CollectionsJul 03, 2025
Piece of the Week: A Firework of Diamonds From Yeprem

The brand’s “Golden Strada” statement necklace features round, marquise, and pear diamonds that sparkle like Fourth of July fireworks.

an instructor and a student in a bench jewelry classroom
Brought to you by
Investing in the Next Generation of Bench Jewelers

The Seymour & Evelyn Holtzman Bench Scholarship from Jewelers of America returns for a second year.

Stock image of police cars with their lights on
CrimeJul 03, 2025
JSA Shares Holiday Weekend Security Tips Amid Spike in Burglaries

JSA’s Scott Guginsky provided a list of nine security measures jewelers should observe while locking up for the long weekend.

Weekly QuizJul 02, 2025
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Exterior and entryway of Boucheron’s Los Angeles Flagship
MajorsJul 02, 2025
Boucheron Looks to LA for First West Coast Flagship

Located on Rodeo Drive, the store’s design was inspired by Hollywood and Los Angeles culture.

Exterior of Marco Bicego Milan Flagship
MajorsJul 02, 2025
Marco Bicego Opens Milan Flagship

The new location continues the brand’s celebration of its 25th anniversary.

Jewelers of America logo with meetup, State of the Majors, giveaway and massages
Brought to you by
Jewelers of America is Headed to Las Vegas for JCK 2025

The countdown is on for the JCK Las Vegas Show and JA is pulling out all the stops.

Chrono24 Time Is Our Thing campaign image
WatchesJul 02, 2025
Chrono24 Revamps Brand, Launches New Campaign

The online watch marketplace’s “Time Is Our Thing” campaign highlights the importance of time.

Bernadette Mack
SourcingJul 02, 2025
Bernadette Mack Joins Gem Legacy as Executive Director

She will oversee strategic planning, fundraising, industry partnerships, and the launch of the Gem Legacy Campus in Tanzania.

Counterfeit Pandora jewelry in bags and boxes
CrimeJul 02, 2025
Pandora, Amazon Partner to Uncover Counterfeit Jewelry Network

Working with Amazon’s Counterfeit Crimes Unit and law enforcement, Pandora helped to shut down a large-scale counterfeit network in China.

Cast Issa Rae
MajorsJul 01, 2025
Cast Closes Business, Plans for Relaunch

The jewelry company has closed its three California brick-and-mortar stores, as well as its online shop, for now.

Eve Goldberg, Matthew Denatale, Willie Lopez, Benjamin Goldberg
Events & AwardsJul 01, 2025
William Goldberg Diamonds, FIT Partner for Apprenticeship Program

The company is providing the opportunity for an FIT student to work alongside master diamond cutter Willie Lopez in its workshop.

Elie Hannoush
IndependentsJul 01, 2025
Elie Hannoush, Founder of Hannoush Jewelers, Dies at 73

He is remembered for his successful entrepreneurship, generosity, and dedication to his family.

Claire’s store
MajorsJul 01, 2025
Claire’s Is Looking for a Buyer, Report Says

The jewelry store chain has reportedly been struggling with costs related to tariffs as well as tough retail competition.

Mindi Mond Spike Earrings
TrendsJul 01, 2025
Amanda’s Style File: Red Hot Rubies

Welcome warm summer days with red hot rubies perfectly chosen as July’s birthstone.

The Story of Everything Campaign, Toadstool Mushroom and Cosmic Egg
CollectionsJun 30, 2025
State Property’s New Jewelry Tells ‘The Story of Everything’

Co-founders Afzal Imram and Lin Ruiyin brought their son’s story of a cosmic egg, toadstool, and railroad to life in their new collection.

Smart Age Solutions CEO Emmanuel Raheb
ColumnistsJun 30, 2025
The Smart Lab: Why Q3 Is the Secret Weapon For Holiday Jewelry Sales

The best time to prepare for the holiday season is right now, according to columnist Emmanuel Raheb.

Morgan Keefe
Events & AwardsJun 30, 2025
AGA Names Recipient of 2025 Gemological Education Scholarship

This year’s winner is Morgan Keefe, who is currently studying at GIA to be a gemologist.

The Jewelry Book
IndependentsJun 30, 2025
Melanie Grant’s New Book Explores 200 Years of Jewelry

“The Jewelry Book” comes out this September.

Gemist
TechnologyJun 27, 2025
Gemist Raises $6M in Funding to Scale Jewelry Tech Platform

The company is focused on modernizing the custom jewelry buying experience with e-commerce tools like product visualization and 3D styling.

Jeff Preolo, David Stout, Levi Higgs, David Benavides
IndependentsJun 27, 2025
David Webb Announces New Hires, Promotions

Following its recent acquisition, the storied brand has updated its leadership team and regional managers.

Blake Graham and Jessica Kohoutek
Events & AwardsJun 27, 2025
AGS, GIA Announce Beatrice Shipley Scholarship Winner

AGS also named the recipient of its “Women in Leadership” scholarship.

Buddha Mama Monstera Ring
CollectionsJun 27, 2025
Piece of the Week: Buddha Mama’s ‘Monstera’ Wrap Ring

The 20-karat yellow gold and diamond wrap ring is modeled after the Monstera plants in the garden of the brand’s Miami villa.

Cashier handing Rocksbox bag to customer
MajorsJun 26, 2025
Why Rocksbox Is Opening Stores As Signet Jewelers Downsizes

Rocksbox President Allison Vigil shared the retailer’s expansion plans, and her thoughts on opening stores in malls.

Penny Ruston
IndependentsJun 26, 2025
Penny Ruston Dies at 80

The creator of the WJA Chicago chapter is remembered as a champion for women in the jewelry industry and a loving grandmother.

Stock image of woman shopping
SurveysJun 26, 2025
After Recovering in May, Consumer Confidence Dips in June

The decline was consistent across age groups and almost all income groups, with tariffs and inflation still top of mind.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy