The looks ran the gamut from primitive-inspired to super high-end, earthy to bling-y, and everything in between, but a few key trends caught my eye.
Color Story Colored gemstones were a major focus for designers. Some like Carelle and Gigi Ferranti opted for a brilliant pop of color, letting a spectacular opal or sapphire shine against a backdrop of yellow gold, while others like Gumuchian took a more-is-more approach: accenting emeralds with more emeralds, and of course, some white diamonds for contrast.
And you couldn’t miss Buddha Mama’s fire opal pendant. The 20-carat carved fire opal floated in a crystal dome globe, just begging to be admired.
Buddha Mama’s 20-carat fire opal Buddha necklace set in crystal dome globe with diamonds and carnelian
Gumuchian’s one-of-a-kind emerald earrings in 18-karat yellow gold and platinum with black rhodium featuring two pear-shaped, no-oil emeralds weighing a combined 8.26 carats
Carelle’s Soleil 1.12-carat blue sapphire ring in 18-karat yellow gold with diamonds
Gigi Ferranti’s Gianna Locket and mirror compact in 14-karat yellow gold with Ethiopian opal, diamonds and blue sapphire
Major Cuffs Speaking of pops of color, an oval tanzanite cabochon set in a gold cuff by Gurhan was impossible to miss.
Heavy statement cuffs of all types seemed to be on designers’ minds.
When dealing with so much metal, it makes sense to create pieces in sterling silver, like Chasseur Fine Jewelry did, but for the right customer, gold is a breathtaking option, as seen in pieces like Hearts On Fire’s 18-karat yellow gold and diamond cuff.
For the best of both worlds, Elizabeth Garvin Fine Jewelry presented its oxidized sterling silver cuff that was accented with a touch of 18-karat yellow gold as well as sparkling, flush-set diamonds.
Elizabeth Garvin Fine Jewelry’s oxidized sterling silver hinged cuff with 18-karat gold and diamonds
Chasseur Fine Jewelry’s sterling silver Scarab chevron icon cuff
Gurhan’s one-of-a-kind Amulet Hue cuff in 22-karat gold featuring an oval cabochon tanzanite with a 24-karat gold bezel
Hearts On Fire’s 18-karat yellow gold Lorelei Criss Cross cuff with 4.20 carats of diamonds
Organic Energy Nambe had a stunning, textured sterling silver cuff at the preview, as well as a number of other pieces that were indicators of another trend: organic lines.
Many brands and designers who create in silver fit the bill for this type of jewelry, which seems to mirror the lines of the natural world, such as Bastian Inverun, which had a wonderful, spiraling pendant on display.
But gold was also a player. I loved a sculptural gold ring by Ashley Childs, and one of my favorite pieces at the event was Sandy Leong’s open gold collar, which featured a dramatic, asymmetric curving line of diamonds on one side. It was beautiful on display, but even better when modeled by Jewelers of America’s Lauren Kalma.
Sandy Leong’s 18-karat recycled yellow gold Canyon open collar necklace
The 18-karat yellow gold Vega ring by Ashley Childs
Nambe’s sterling silver and rhodium-plated Oceana cuff bracelet
Bastian Inverun’s sterling silver pendant with brushed finish
Fun with Fringe Several designers were playing with the concept of movement, showing dangling earrings that take on a life of their own when worn.
K. Mita and Dilamani had full-on fringe styles that featured dangling chains.
