Editors

5 Things to Know About … American Gems

EditorsSep 15, 2017

5 Things to Know About … American Gems

From the rise of Montana sapphires to a new cutting facility in New Jersey, here are some interesting facts about the domestic colored stone market.

20170915_Yogo-header.jpg
Yogo sapphires from Montana (Image courtesy The Gem Gallery)
There’s been a movement toward Americana products and American-made goods over the past few years.

The trend has, not surprisingly, also trickled into demand for colored gems. I’ve been hearing more and more about how consumers are showing interest in the stones that are mined in the United States, including several mentions of it during the Tucson gem shows earlier this year.

Eric Braunwart of Columbia Gem House told me in a recent interview that he believes the increase in demand might have to do with the desire for mine-to-market tracing and knowing where products come from, as well as an increased awareness in American-made products.

Luckily for those looking for gemstones mined domestically, the United States has got a variety of options--agate, beryl, garnet, jasper, opal, sapphire, tourmaline and much more.

If you want to really get into it, like I did for this blog, the U.S. Geological Survey’s National Minerals Information Center is the place to go. You can get lost in all the numbers and data there.

In the meantime, here are some quick hits of information about American gems, including what’s available and the size of the domestic market.

1. Tourmaline started it all. 
According to the USGS, tourmaline was the first gemstone mined in the United States by miners other than prehistoric man or Native Americans. 

Mining of the stone began at Mount Mica, Maine, in 1822, and has continued to the present, with some starts and stops.

A new phase of tourmaline mining began when Gary and Mary Freeman of Coromoto Minerals acquired the property at Mount Mica in 2003. In the first eight years of mining, more than two hundred pockets of the gemstone were discovered, according to the Maine State Museum. 

Tourmaline also was the single largest contributor to the value of gemstones produced by California for a long time, according to USGS. 

Since their discoveries, the tourmaline deposits in Riverside and San Diego counties have not only produced more tourmaline by volume but also produced tourmaline worth a greater value than any other deposit in the Northern Hemisphere, the USGS said. 

It’s believed that, in fact, only the deposits in Brazil have been more productive than those in California, due in large part to the longevity of the individual mines in California, with many of them operating intermittently from the 1890s onward. 

For example, the Himalaya mine was the world’s largest producer of tourmaline from 1898 until 1914. It’s currently owned and mined by Pala International and is still the state’s biggest producer. 

(The USGS used to make available breakdowns of the production of each gemstone in the U.S. by year but stopped posting it online a few years ago. Inquiries regarding this information were not answered by press time). 

A bracelet featuring Montana sapphires from Columbia Gem House
A bracelet featuring Montana sapphires from Columbia Gem House

2. The reign of sapphires carries over.
Mirroring the story in the international colored gemstone sector, sapphires seem to be taking the top spot in the domestic gem market, as interest increases in Montana and the corundum its mines are producing.

Montana sapphires are found in four widely separated areas across the state, with each locality producing material with its own unique characteristics.

The first were extracted from the Missouri River as early as 1865, according to Columbia Gem House’s website, and still are being found along the river. Sapphire also is found in Dry Cottonwood Creek, though production has been sporadic over the past few years.

Yogo sapphires from the Yogo Gulch area are considered some of the finest from the state, though they generally come in smaller sizes.

Yogo sapphires are known for their uniform, well-saturated blue color, relative absence of inclusions and zonation, and high luster and brilliance in both artificial and natural light, the GIA said. They also have the added advantage of not requiring any heat treatment.

News that the Vortex mine recently was acquired and soon would start producing again was met with a lot of excitement.

Rock Creek sapphire, meanwhile, occurs in more than 50 distinct hues, including shades of teal, which the younger consumer has shown interest in, Braunwart said.

As demand for stones from this state increases, supply has trended toward becoming more consistent, he added, as more miners move to make it a regular business, rather than just a hobby.

3. A quarter of the states produce the majority of the gemstones in the country. 
In decreasing order of production value, Idaho, Arizona, Oregon, California, Montana, Arkansas, Maine, Colorado, North Carolina, Nevada, Texas and Utah produced 90 percent of the U.S.’s natural gemstones last year, the USGS said. 

In the U.S., in addition to tourmaline and sapphire, domestic production includes beryl, coral, garnet, jasper, opal, pearl, topaz and turquoise. 

Interestingly, one miner in California who’s been doing it for the past three decades said he has mined some quartz that displays multiple stars. (The Gemological Institute of America wrote about them in an issue of “Gems & Gemology” in 1990.)

Multiple-star quartz mined by David Muster of Muster Gems in California
Multiple-star quartz mined by David Muster of Muster Gems in California

At the Diamond Mountain Mine in Plumas County, David Muster of Muster Gems finds quartz that display six- to 12-rayed stars of various intensities. Additional stars also can be seen at times on the sides of a cabochon. 

They come in a variety of pastel colors, from white to blue to rose and even sometimes a deep orchid.

“You never get the same color twice with these stones,” Muster said. “Whatever you dig up is what you’ve got.”

The star phenomenon doesn’t show up in all gemstones, and the very high-quality, geometrically perfect stars are very rare, Muster said. Alternatively, it can sometimes show as cat’s eye.

His mining site doesn’t produce a lot of material. He estimates that for every ton mined, it produces about a pound of gemstone material.

California also is the only source of its state gemstone, benitoite, a beautiful blue gem found only in San Benito County.

4. Demand might be up, but production is a different issue.
While interest in American gems might be growing, it remains to be seen if supply will be able to keep up, if the numbers from the USGS are any indication.

After a slight decline between 2008 and 2009, from $11.5 million to $9.3 million, the value of U.S. natural gemstone output has gradually increased for a few years-- $10 million in 2010, and then around $11 million in 2011 and $11.3 million in 2012.

Then in 2013, it dropped again to $9.6 million, where it hovered through 2014 before dropping again to $8.5 million in 2015 and remaining flat there in 2016.

5. There’s a small, but growing, movement in domestic commercial cutting.
Americut Gems opened in New Brunswick, N.J., last year to become what it says is the first U.S.-based factory that uses state-of-the art robotic cutting technology to produce precision-cut gemstones.

It really came after the opening of the 3,000-acre Potentate mine in Montana, which produces hundreds of kilos of sapphires a year, according to Arlan Abel, a partner at the company. This mine is Americut’s primary source for rough sapphire.

The freestanding robotic machines used at Americut Gems were designed by Kiwon Jang of KLM Technology and used to commercially produce the “All-American Sapphire” in New Jersey.
The freestanding robotic machines used at Americut Gems were designed by Kiwon Jang of KLM Technology and used to commercially produce the “All-American Sapphire” in New Jersey.

The facility has six models called the “801,” which feature an 8-inch lap (the rotating disc on a cutting machine that helps create the facets), and cuts one stone of more than 5 mm at a time. 

It also has two “1024” models, which feature a 10-inch lap and the ability to cut 24 stones at a time. Abel said it’s ideal for stones in finished sizes of between 3 and 5 mm. 

Additionally, there are two “1440” models with a 14-inch lap that cuts about 80 stones at a time, finishing stones of between 1.5 mm and 2.75 mm. 

Americut’s technology makes it possible to cut in the U.S. and avoid the necessity of shipping the rough stones overseas, Abel said, allowing it to offer the “All-American Sapphire,” which it says is the first time that sapphires have been mined, cut and polished in all sizes in the U.S.

Americut cuts everything from 1.5 mm upward, and is interested primarily in acting as cutter and dealer to the trade, with Abel noting that they are open to entertaining any partnership. 

When it comes to supply for the sapphires from Potentate, Abel said it’s mixed.

Approximately 75 percent of Rock Creek production results in polished gemstones that are smaller than 5 mm and which have a very distinct color. As such, Abel said they are currently in conversation with several designers to create a unique look for this material and help with the sell-through of the smaller sizes. 

With larger sizes, there is not enough material available to satisfy demand.

He added, though, that he thinks Rock Creek sapphires “could be a major product category” for the retailer who wants something different. 
Brecken Branstratoris the senior editor, gemstones at National Jeweler, covering sourcing, pricing and other developments in the colored stone sector.

The Latest

Gold jewelry on a scale
MajorsSep 10, 2025
Stuller to Swap Gold Scrap for Full Credit to Account

As the gold price rises, the manufacturer is offering a 100 percent payout through Sept. 30 for gold clean scrap.

Jacob and Co Loewe headphones
SourcingSep 10, 2025
Tech Meets Style in the New Loewe x Jacob & Co. Headphones

Jacob & Co. partnered with the German technology company on two pairs of headphones, one set with diamonds and the other with sapphires.

Tiffany & Co Favrile Beetle Necklace in Frankenstein
TrendsSep 10, 2025
Tiffany & Co. Archival Jewels Bring Life to ‘Frankenstein’

Guillermo del Toro’s 2025 “Frankenstein” will feature 27 jewels and objects from the storied brand, including pieces from its archives.

reDollar-fine-jewelry-department.jpg
Brought to you by
reDollar.com Is Rolling Out the Next Level Jewelry, Diamond & Watch Consignment Program

With their unmatched services and low fees, reDollar.com is challenging some big names in the online consignment world.

24 Karat Club banquet
MajorsSep 10, 2025
24 Karat Club of New York’s Banquet to Return to Waldorf Astoria

The Waldorf Astoria New York’s grand reopening this past summer means a homecoming for the industry group’s annual event.

Weekly QuizSep 04, 2025
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Anglo American’s Quellaveco copper mine in Peru
SourcingSep 09, 2025
Anglo American to Merge With Canadian Copper Miner

Anglo plans to merge with Teck Resources Ltd. to form Anglo Teck. The deal changes nothing about its plans to offload De Beers.

The Mellon Blue diamond
AuctionsSep 09, 2025
‘The Mellon Blue’ to Return to Auction, This Time at Christie’s

The 9.51-carat fancy vivid blue diamond, which set two world auction records at Sotheby’s in 2014, is estimated to fetch up to $30 million.

japac-btyb.png
Brought to you by
Rallying Call for the Jewelry Industry on Tariffs and Other Key Issues

Jewelers of America is leading the charge to protect the industry amidst rising economic threats.

Dianne Batista Phillips Auctions
AuctionsSep 09, 2025
Phillips Names Dianne Batista Head of Jewels, New York

The industry veteran joins the auction house as it looks to solidify its footprint in the jewelry market.

Anastacia Lauren, Elle Jerge, Logan Nye
MajorsSep 09, 2025
MJSA Education Foundation Announces 2025 Scholarship Winners

The nonprofit awarded four students pursuing a professional career in jewelry making and design with $2,250 each.

Korman jewelry store Austin
IndependentsSep 08, 2025
Take a Look Inside the New Korman Store in Austin

The Texas-based jeweler has also undergone a brand refresh, debuting a new website and logo.

Logos for Manufacturing Jewelers & Suppliers of America and Jewelers of America
MajorsSep 08, 2025
MJSA Is Officially Now Under JA’s Umbrella

The two organizations have finalized and signed the affiliation agreement announced in May.

Sothebys JAR and Suzanne Belperron jewels
AuctionsSep 08, 2025
Sotheby’s To Auction ‘Exceptional’ Collection of JAR, Suzanne Belperron Jewels

The single-owner sale will headline Sotheby's inaugural jewelry auction at the Breuer building, its new global headquarters, this December.

A street in Carlsbad California
Events & AwardsSep 08, 2025
27 Can’t-Miss Converge Sessions, Events

From sunrise yoga to tariffs talks, these are some events to check out at the upcoming inaugural event.

National Jeweler columnist Peter Smith
ColumnistsSep 05, 2025
Peter Smith: A Lasting Lesson From Maurice Tempelsman

Smith recalls a bit of wisdom the industry leader, who died last week, shared at a diamond conference years ago.

Jamie Turner Victoria Labradorite Necklace
CollectionsSep 05, 2025
Piece of the Week: Jamie Turner’s ‘Victoria’ Necklace

The “Victoria” necklace features a labradorite hugged by diamond accents in 18-karat yellow gold.

Stock image of the U.S. Supreme Court
Policies & IssuesSep 05, 2025
Trump Takes Tariffs Case to the Supreme Court

Two lower courts have moved to block the import taxes, which will remain in place as the legal battle continues.

Patrick Mahomes Hublot campaign
WatchesSep 05, 2025
Patrick Mahomes Is the New Hublot Brand Ambassador

The Kansas City Chiefs quarterback shares Hublot’s dedication to pursuing greatness, the Swiss watchmaker said.

gia-edu main image.png
Supplier BulletinSep 04, 2025
A Brilliant Future Is Here

Sponsored by GIA

Lucara pink diamond
SourcingSep 04, 2025
Lucara Unveils Unusual 37-Carat Pink Diamond

The Type IIa stone, recovered from Botswana’s Karowe diamond mine last month, features unique coloration.

Shot from Breitling new NFL campaign
WatchesSep 04, 2025
Breitling Takes Its NFL Game to the Next Level

Breitling is now the NFL’s official timepiece partner, a move that puts the brand in front of the millions of Americans who watch football.

NYC Jewelry, Antique, & Object Show Autumn 2025
Events & AwardsSep 04, 2025
The NYC Jewelry, Antique, & Object Show Returns in November

NYCJAOS is set for Nov. 21-23 in New York City’s Chelsea neighborhood.

Fabergé x Gemfields Malaika Egg
SourcingSep 03, 2025
Gemfields Confirms Completion of Fabergé Sale

U.S.-based investment company SMG Capital LLC is the new owner of the luxury brand.

Claire’s storefront
MajorsSep 03, 2025
These Are the Nearly 300 Claire’s Stores Set to Close

A new court filing details the locations of the stores that will close, as well as the 830 that will remain open.

Stuller’s Tools, Equipment, & Metals and Findings & Metals Catalogs
MajorsSep 03, 2025
Stuller Releases 2 New Catalogs

The new catalogs are “Tools, Equipment, & Metals” and “Findings & Metals.”

Effy Jewelry Multicolor Sapphire Bangle
TrendsSep 03, 2025
Amanda’s Style File: A Perfect Birthstone

Sapphire’s variety of colors make it the perfect birthstone for September.

Woman with hands crossed wearing jewelry
FinancialsSep 02, 2025
Lab-Grown Diamonds, Lower-Priced Fashion Jewelry Drive Signet Jewelers’ Q2 Sales

The retailer has raised its guidance after seeing total sales increase 3 percent in the second quarter, beating expectations.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy