Our Pieces of the Week honor the 2026 nominees for the Gem Award for Jewelry Design, Silvia Furmanovich, Cece Fein-Hughes, and Catherine Sarr.
Hemmerle Auction Smashes Pre-Sale Estimates
All but one lot exceeded predictions, with some selling for more than five times their estimated ranges.

London—The Sotheby’s London Fine Jewels auction last week showed a strong demand for signed pieces from contemporary jewelry masters.
Each of the 12 one-of-a-kind jewels from the largest single-owner Hemmerle collection to be offered at auction sold, with all but one exceeding their pre-sale price ranges and some going for five times those amounts.
The most expensive jewel sold was the above necklace with a blackened silver chain, tsavorite garnet links and an early 19th century jasper cameo pendant, surrounded by emeralds and tsavorites.
It smashed its pre-sale estimates of $18,500 to $24,600, selling for $144,855.
The above pair of pineapple-shaped earrings featuring large gray and orange-brown old-mine-cut diamonds and 19th century cameos—expected to earn between $24,600 and $36,900—earned a cool $88,523.
A diamond and colored diamond pendant necklace and brooch, meanwhile, fetched $80,475, compared with its $51,504 to $77,256 pre-sale estimate, and a pair of tourmaline and green sapphire earrings upended its $9,013 to $11,588 estimate when it garnered $64,380.
The above diamond brooches, which convert to hair clips, garnered $56,333, compared with their $25,752 to $38,628 estimated price range, while the below spinel and pink sapphire earrings sold for an impressive $48,285, compared with their $12,876 to $19,314 pre-sale expectation.
The bidding wars didn’t stop there.
A pair of lava cameo and colored diamonds earrings earned $48,285—compared with their $12,876 to $19,314 estimate—and a campy sapphire and diamond Mickey Mouse brooch sold for $45,066, though it was only expected to fetch between $15,451 and $23,177.
A pair of emerald and tsavorite garnet earrings predicted to earn between $10,301 and $15,451 sold for $45,066, and a pair of tourmaline, sapphire and emerald earrings expected to sell for between $12,876 and $19,314 fetched $41,847.
A pair of colored diamond earrings were the sole Hemmerle lot to fall within their estimated price range ($25,752-$38,628), selling for $32,190.
A separate pair of lava cameo and colored diamond earrings from the pair mentioned above, meanwhile, earned $28,971, though they were predicted to sell for between $12,876 and $19,314.
Hemmerle is a fourth-generation jewelry house based in Munich, Germany. The jeweler makes a biannual stateside visit to TEFAF in New York City.
The Latest

The 24-piece watch collection is set to debut in spring 2027.

Pooler, who has more than 25 years’ experience in jewelry, is now chief operating officer of Modani Jewels, Soham Diamonds, and SNJ Creations.

Every jeweler faces the same challenge: helping customers protect what they love. Here’s the solution designed for today’s jewelry business.

The reopening of the Waldorf Astoria means a homecoming for the industry group’s annual event, which will take place Saturday.


McCormack looked to the 19th century’s “golden age” of astronomy when designing her new celestial-themed collection.

Nelson will be honored as the inaugural grant winner at the Gem Awards gala on Friday.

With refreshed branding, a new website, updated courses, and a pathway for growth, DCA is dedicated to supporting retail staff development.

The new smart design software allows jewelers to configure, price, and confirm a custom engagement ring in real time for in-store customers.

The 10,000-square-foot diamond manufacturing facility officially opened in late February and employs 50 people.

The MJSA Education Foundation’s scholarships support students pursuing jewelry careers.

Skelly shares her plans for reimagining the fine jewelry retailer she re-acquired after it faltered last year.

The collection takes inspiration from the emotional space between people, moments, and experiences.

In 2026, the jewelry retailer is celebrating a milestone only a small percentage of family-owned businesses survive to see.

The group of jewelers held a jewelry raffle in support of the Children’s Hospital of Richmond at VCU.

The jewelry giant released preliminary results for the fourth quarter and full year on Monday, with final results slated to come next week.

The retailer also gave an update on its vendor partnerships.

The award-winning actress is the “epitome of modern allure,” the brand said.

The “Bloom” collection draws from the flower power movement of the 1960s and ‘70s with inlay pendants offered in eight colorways.

The unique piece was one of the custom works offered at the foundation's recent silent art auction, which garnered nearly $15,000 in total.

Bulgari named Gyllenhaal as its brand ambassador for his embodiment of artistic depth, intellectual curiosity, and warmth.

Awards were given to four students, one apprentice, and an emerging jeweler.

Moses, who started at GIA’s Santa Monica lab in 1976, will leave the Gemological Institute of America in May.

Increased competition, falling lab-grown diamond and moissanite prices, and the rising cost of gold took a toll on the moissanite maker.

The earrings, our Piece of the Week, feature pink tourmalines as planets orbiting around an aquamarine center set in 18-karat rose gold.

“The Price of Freedom” campaign video for International Women’s Day confronts the quiet violence of financial control.

Also, a federal judge has ordered that companies that paid tariffs implemented under the IEEPA are entitled to refunds.






















