Sponsored by Tasha R
10 Spectacular TEFAF Jewels
Senior Editor Ashley Davis highlights top antique and contemporary designs from the recently concluded New York show.
The European Fine Art Fair, or TEFAF for short, only features a handful of jewelry designers and galleries among its array of antique and contemporary art and design booths, but the quality of these exhibitors make it a must-visit destination on the American fine jewelry calendar.
Started in 1988, TEFAF happens once annually in Maastricht, Netherlands, but began biannual New York showings in 2016 at the Park Avenue Armory.
It’s the only decent chance for stateside jewelry lovers to interact with brands like the German Hemmerle or the French Reza, who have chosen TEFAF New York as their biannual American entrée.
Below, see some of the most captivating jewels that were on display at the recently concluded fall show, and mark your calendars for TEFAF New York Spring—it’s happening May 8-12, 2020. Taffin is a regular at the spring edition, and that’s reason enough to visit.
My first stop at TEFAF was A La Vieille Russie, a New York-based antique jewelry gallery that began in Russia in 1851 before moving to Paris in 1920 and finally New York in 1941. The company specializes in antique European and American jewelry, and in its earliest days counted Carl Faberge as a client.
A La Vieille Russie had the Tiffany & Co. brooch seen above on view at TEFAF Fall featuring a large carved moonstone in a platinum and diamond mount circa 1900.
ALVR also had several excellent examples of enamel on display, like this gold-mounted pale blue enamel clock with a seed pearl-trimmed dial crafted by Faberge workmaster H. Wigström in approximately 1910.
The commemorative clock was one of many objects created in the years following St. Petersburg’s 1903 bicentenary. It features a sepia painting depicting the city.
Paul Templier designed this diamond and natural pearl convertible pin and pendant set in platinum in 1901.
Boasting between 5 and 6 carats of diamonds, the stones are unusual for the early 20th century, as trillion-cut diamonds aren’t typically seen in the period.
Templier is arguably one of the most important names in antique jewelry design.
Paul Templier was the son of Charles Templier, who founded the family jewelry business in 1849 in Paris. Paul took over in 1885, and his son, Raymond Templier, entered the business in 1919
I was amazed at the lasting quality of the above Renaissance Revival white and black enamel link and pendant necklace set with old-mine cut diamonds and mounted in silver and gold.
The piece can be traced to England, circa 1895.
Speaking of white enamel, I spotted the sweetest gold and white enamel necklace circa 1880 at Monaco antique jewelry dealer Veronique Bamps’ booth.
The candy-like sapphire, topaz, aquamarine and peridot gems lent the piece a saccharine elegance.
Fourth-generation German design house Hemmerle has hosted private client appointments in New York City for years, but TEFAF has introduced the brand to an entirely new group of admirers.
Every piece the family-owned and -operated company creates is one-of-a-kind and produced entirely in-house from start to finish, taking hundreds of hours, or even years, to complete.
The above diamond, iron, silver and white gold earrings were new for TEFAF. The spokes actually move around the diameter of the earring.
Another impressive hero piece was this flexible emerald cuff, which opens sideways courtesy of an inventively engineered hinge.
It’s made of emerald, bronze and white gold.
Upon first glance, this turquoise strand necklace appeared to be one of Hemmerle’s more subdued designs, but, as always, a little context illuminated its particular importance.
The flawless Sleeping Beauty turquoise beads took the Hemmerle family two decades to acquire; the final product is the result of that treasure hunt.
I saved my favorite TEFAF stop for last. Reza’s mezzanine-level space transports visitors to the high jeweler’s Place Vendôme salon in Paris.
The second-generation company had some incredible new, one-of-a-kind treasures for the show.
This deep green, oval-cut 6.93-carat Zambian emerald was set in the house’s signature “Turban” design in white gold with 48 baguette-shaped diamonds totaling 5.85 carats.
While I often gravitate to the French atelier’s exquisite colored gemstones, this particular diamond was my favorite piece from TEFAF Fall.
One of Reza’s newest creations, this J-color VS2 cushion-cut 7.02-carat old mine diamond sits in an inventive “Facette” mount, featuring a mixture of matte and polished rose gold.
The Latest
Three Titanic survivors presented him with the personalized Tiffany & Co. timepiece about a year after the tragedy.
A federal court found that the jewelry store chain violated terms of the settlement reached after it was accused of defrauding customers.
From protecting customer data to safeguarding inventory records, it's crucial to learn how to tackle cybersecurity challenges.
Cynthia Erivo chose Dreams of Hope, an organization dedicated to empowering LGBTQA+ youth, as the charity for this year’s collection.
The new space was designed to evoke a warm, inviting vibe.
Kinney, who spent nearly 30 years at IJO, has been hired to head Abbott Jewelry Systems’ new virtual marketplace.
This fall, sharpen your skills in jewelry grading, quality control and diamond assessment.
The auction house was accused of helping clients avoid paying taxes on millions of dollars’ worth of art purchased from 2010 to 2020.
The four finalists will present their pieces at the 2025 JCK Las Vegas show.
The “Camera Oscura” collection showcases earring designs celebrating female Surrealist artists Claude Cahun and Leonor Fini.
The money will fund the planting of 10,000 trees in critical areas across Oregon, Arizona, Montana, and other regions.
The event centered on advancing jewelry manufacturing technology will return to Detroit in May 2025.
Local reports identified the woman as the wife of the jewelry store owner.
A collection of pieces owned by Ferdinand I, the first king of modern Bulgaria, and his family, blew away estimates in Geneva last week.
The Australian jewelry box brand’s new West Village store will showcase new jewelers each month through its Designer in Residence program.
“Lovechild” was created in partnership with Carolyn Rafaelian’s Metal Alchemist brand.
The group will host several curated events and an exhibition of designer jewelry made with Peruvian gold traceable to the miners’ names.
The collection honors the 50th anniversary of Dolly Parton’s “Love is Like a Butterfly” song, which shares a birth year with Kendra Scott.
This year’s theme asks designers to take inspiration from classic fairy tales.
The latest “Raiz’in” drop showcases a newly designed “Scapular” necklace and donates a portion of the proceeds to Make-A-Wish France.
No. 1 out of 100, the timepiece was created to mark Citizen’s 100th anniversary and will be auctioned off at Sotheby’s next month.
On the latest episode of “My Next Question,” two experts share best practices for store security during the holidays and year-round.
Sotheby’s sold the necklace, which potentially has ties to Marie-Antoinette, for $4.8 million to a woman bidding via phone.
Instead of its usual elaborate display, the store will illuminate its façade and frame the windows to highlight its flagship’s architecture.
The new Grand Seiko boutique is located in Honolulu’s Waikiki neighborhood.
Eleven spots are available for travelers to visit Northern Tanzania and Southern Kenya from July 25 to Aug. 4.