Editors

10 Spectacular TEFAF Jewels

EditorsNov 15, 2019

10 Spectacular TEFAF Jewels

Senior Editor Ashley Davis highlights top antique and contemporary designs from the recently concluded New York show.

20191115_TEFAF-Reza2.jpg
This cushion-cut old mine diamond ring set in rose gold from French high jeweler Reza was on display at the recently concluded TEFAF Fall show in New York City.

The European Fine Art Fair, or TEFAF for short, only features a handful of jewelry designers and galleries among its array of antique and contemporary art and design booths, but the quality of these exhibitors make it a must-visit destination on the American fine jewelry calendar.

Started in 1988, TEFAF happens once annually in Maastricht, Netherlands, but began biannual New York showings in 2016 at the Park Avenue Armory.

It’s the only decent chance for stateside jewelry lovers to interact with brands like the German Hemmerle or the French Reza, who have chosen TEFAF New York as their biannual American entrée.

Below, see some of the most captivating jewels that were on display at the recently concluded fall show, and mark your calendars for TEFAF New York Spring—it’s happening May 8-12, 2020. Taffin is a regular at the spring edition, and that’s reason enough to visit.


Image courtesy of A La Vieille Russie

My first stop at TEFAF was A La Vieille Russie, a New York-based antique jewelry gallery that began in Russia in 1851 before moving to Paris in 1920 and finally New York in 1941. The company specializes in antique European and American jewelry, and in its earliest days counted Carl Faberge as a client. 

A La Vieille Russie had the Tiffany & Co. brooch seen above on view at TEFAF Fall featuring a large carved moonstone in a platinum and diamond mount circa 1900.


Image courtesy of A La Vieille Russie

ALVR also had several excellent examples of enamel on display, like this gold-mounted pale blue enamel clock with a seed pearl-trimmed dial crafted by Faberge workmaster H. Wigström in approximately 1910.

The commemorative clock was one of many objects created in the years following St. Petersburg’s 1903 bicentenary. It features a sepia painting depicting the city.


Image courtesy of A La Vieille Russie

Paul Templier designed this diamond and natural pearl convertible pin and pendant set in platinum in 1901.

Boasting between 5 and 6 carats of diamonds, the stones are unusual for the early 20th century, as trillion-cut diamonds aren’t typically seen in the period.

Templier is arguably one of the most important names in antique jewelry design.

Paul Templier was the son of Charles Templier, who founded the family jewelry business in 1849 in Paris. Paul took over in 1885, and his son, Raymond Templier, entered the business in 1919

and stayed there until it shuttered upon his retirement in 1965.



I was amazed at the lasting quality of the above Renaissance Revival white and black enamel link and pendant necklace set with old-mine cut diamonds and mounted in silver and gold.

The piece can be traced to England, circa 1895.

Speaking of white enamel, I spotted the sweetest gold and white enamel necklace circa 1880 at Monaco antique jewelry dealer Veronique Bamps booth.

The candy-like sapphire, topaz, aquamarine and peridot gems lent the piece a saccharine elegance.


Image courtesy of Hemmerle

Fourth-generation German design house Hemmerle has hosted private client appointments in New York City for years, but TEFAF has introduced the brand to an entirely new group of admirers.

Every piece the family-owned and -operated company creates is one-of-a-kind and produced entirely in-house from start to finish, taking hundreds of hours, or even years, to complete.

The above diamond, iron, silver and white gold earrings were new for TEFAF. The spokes actually move around the diameter of the earring.


Image courtesy of Hemmerle

Another impressive hero piece was this flexible emerald cuff, which opens sideways courtesy of an inventively engineered hinge.

It’s made of emerald, bronze and white gold.


I snapped this shot of Hemmerle's exquisite Sleeping Beauty turquoise necklace at TEFAF Fall 2019.

Upon first glance, this turquoise strand necklace appeared to be one of Hemmerle’s more subdued designs, but, as always, a little context illuminated its particular importance.

The flawless Sleeping Beauty turquoise beads took the Hemmerle family two decades to acquire; the final product is the result of that treasure hunt.


Image courtesy of Reza

I saved my favorite TEFAF stop for last. Reza’s mezzanine-level space transports visitors to the high jeweler’s Place Vendôme salon in Paris.

The second-generation company had some incredible new, one-of-a-kind treasures for the show.

This deep green, oval-cut 6.93-carat Zambian emerald was set in the house’s signature “Turban” design in white gold with 48 baguette-shaped diamonds totaling 5.85 carats.



Image courtesy of Reza

While I often gravitate to the French atelier’s exquisite colored gemstones, this particular diamond was my favorite piece from TEFAF Fall.

One of Reza’s newest creations, this J-color VS2 cushion-cut 7.02-carat old mine diamond sits in an inventive “Facette” mount, featuring a mixture of matte and polished rose gold.

Ashley Davisis the senior editor, fashion at National Jeweler, covering all things related to design, style and trends.

The Latest

Bea Bongiasca Animali Tarallo Collection Royal Blue Tang Fish “Dory”
CollectionsApr 02, 2025
Bea Bongiasca’s ‘Tarallo’ Collection Expansion Is a Zoo

The pieces in “Animali Tarallo” portray animals from stingrays to elephants through portraits and interpretations of their patterns.

Neiman Marcus Downtown Dallas store
MajorsApr 02, 2025
Neiman Marcus’ Dallas Flagship Will Remain Open, For Now

Parent company Saks Global said the iconic location will be open through the holiday season as it decides what to do with the space.

Natural color diamonds on display at Smithsonian National Museum of History
SourcingApr 02, 2025
Winston’s Collection of Natural Color Diamonds Now on Display in D.C.

Ronald Winston, son of Harry Winston, donated the diamonds to the Smithsonian National Museum of Natural History in Washington, D.C.

bench jeweler 1872x1052.png
Brought to you by
The Heart of the Industry: Giving Bench Jewelers the Recognition They Deserve

Bench jewelers spend years honing their skills, Jewelers of America’s Certification validates their talents.

Jewelers of America logo
Policies & IssuesApr 02, 2025
Jewelers of America to Hold Webinar on Tariffs

The virtual event will take place April 7 at 3 p.m.

Weekly QuizMar 27, 2025
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Punchmark
Events & AwardsApr 02, 2025
Punchmark to Host Client Workshop

The educational event will take place in Charlotte, North Carolina, this May.

Bergman Jewelers family
IndependentsApr 01, 2025
Bergman Jewelers in Omaha Closing After 137 Years

The independent jeweler first opened its doors in 1888.

Facets-of-Fire-Difference-You-Can-See.jpg
Brought to you by
Natural Diamonds Should Mean More

Natural diamonds mean more than lab-grown, but when every cut is ideal, they all look the same. Customers want more—Facets of Fire delivers.

QVC Group Inc. logo
MajorsApr 01, 2025
QVC Group to Cut 900 Jobs in the U.S.

The layoffs come amid the TV shopping channel’s efforts to restructure and focus on live shopping through social media.

Coconut Grove Jewelry & Watch Show
Events & AwardsApr 01, 2025
U.S. Antique Shows Adds Fall Show in Florida

The debut event will take place in Miami’s Coconut Grove neighborhood this fall.

The Jewelry Symposium (TJS)
Events & AwardsApr 01, 2025
TJS to Host Discussion on Jewelry Industry’s Labor Shortage

The roundtable will take place May 17 ahead of the trade show’s welcome dinner.

Peanuts x Monica Rich Kosann Collection Bracelets
CollectionsApr 01, 2025
Monica Rich Kosann Says ‘Good Grief’ in Peanuts Jewelry Collection

The “Peanuts x Monica Rich Kosann” collection features the comic strip’s classic vocabulary across 10 bracelet designs.

Graphic for What Do We Mean When We Say “Recycled” Gold webinar
Recorded WebinarsMar 31, 2025
Watch: What Do We Mean When We Say ‘Recycled’ Gold?

Three industry experts dive into the complexities of the material often marketed as an “ethical” alternative for metal in jewelry.

Mindi Mond Clarity Earrings
TrendsMar 31, 2025
Amanda’s Style File: Dripping in Diamonds

Diamonds are not only one of the most prominent gemstones, but the birthstone for those born in April.

Lashbrook ring
MajorsMar 31, 2025
Lashbrook Expands Into Luxury Golf Gifts With Acquisition

The Utah-based company known for making wedding bands has acquired Doubloon Golf.

Bulgari and LVMH Watches CEO Jean-Christophe Babin
WatchesMar 31, 2025
Bulgari CEO Jean-Christophe Babin Will Also Head LVMH Watches

The longtime luxury executive led one of LVMH’s watch brands, TAG Heuer, for 12 years before taking over Bulgari in 2013.

Surveillance footage of robbery
CrimeMar 28, 2025
2 Suspects Arrested in $1.7M Smash-and-Grab Robbery of NY Jewelry Store

Authorities said the robbers fled with jewelry and 70 Rolex watches, later taking pictures of themselves posing with big stacks of cash.

Nephrite and Jadeite by Heinrich Fischer, Richard W. Hughes
SourcingMar 28, 2025
19th-Century Jade Book Now Available in English

Lotus Gemology founder Richard W. Hughes has translated Heinrich Fischer’s 1880 book “Nephrit und Jadeit” from its original German.

LÖF The Valentine Ring
CollectionsMar 28, 2025
Piece of the Week: Löf’s ‘The Valentine’ Ring

The ring's design features contrasting lines influenced by work from architecture-inspired photographer Nikola Olic.

Eggs on a shelf
SurveysMar 27, 2025
Consumer Confidence Falls in March Amid ‘Gloomy’ Outlook

The Conference Board’s index fell as consumers continued to worry about the impact of tariffs, the labor market, and the price of eggs.

Richard Rainsford memorial ring
AuctionsMar 27, 2025
300-Year-Old Ring Linked to Witch Trial Judge Goes Unsold at Auction

However, two medieval jewels surpassed estimates at Noonans Mayfair’s recent jewelry auction in London.

Austin Butler
WatchesMar 27, 2025
Austin Butler Joins Breitling as Brand Ambassador

The Oscar-nominated actor debuted in the campaign for the new “Top Time B31” collection, which introduced Breitling’s Caliber B31.

ICA Congress Brazil 2025
SourcingMar 27, 2025
Susan Jacques, Gaetano Cavalieri to Headline 2025 ICA Congress

The Congress is scheduled to take place May 19-22 in Brasilia, Brazil.

Bailey’s Fine Jewelry storefront
IndependentsMar 26, 2025
Bailey’s Fine Jewelry Acquires Fellow NC Independent Jeweler

The family-owned retailer is the new owner of Morrison Smith Jewelers in Charlotte, North Carolina.

Bulova 150 Art Deco Miss America Watch, 150 Art Deco Pocket Watch
WatchesMar 26, 2025
Bulova Celebrates 150th Anniversary With Art Deco Watches

The “150 Art Deco” collection features a Miss America timepiece and a pocket watch from the brand’s Archive Series.

Alex Wellen
MajorsMar 26, 2025
QVC Group Appoints New President

Alex Wellen, formerly CEO and president of MotorTrend Group, has taken on the role.

Jewelers of America’s new logo
Events & AwardsMar 26, 2025
Jewelers of America Announces New Funding Initiative

The Impact Initiative is part of the nonprofit association’s new three-year strategic plan.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy