Editors

10 Spectacular TEFAF Jewels

EditorsNov 15, 2019

10 Spectacular TEFAF Jewels

Senior Editor Ashley Davis highlights top antique and contemporary designs from the recently concluded New York show.

20191115_TEFAF-Reza2.jpg
This cushion-cut old mine diamond ring set in rose gold from French high jeweler Reza was on display at the recently concluded TEFAF Fall show in New York City.

The European Fine Art Fair, or TEFAF for short, only features a handful of jewelry designers and galleries among its array of antique and contemporary art and design booths, but the quality of these exhibitors make it a must-visit destination on the American fine jewelry calendar.

Started in 1988, TEFAF happens once annually in Maastricht, Netherlands, but began biannual New York showings in 2016 at the Park Avenue Armory.

It’s the only decent chance for stateside jewelry lovers to interact with brands like the German Hemmerle or the French Reza, who have chosen TEFAF New York as their biannual American entrée.

Below, see some of the most captivating jewels that were on display at the recently concluded fall show, and mark your calendars for TEFAF New York Spring—it’s happening May 8-12, 2020. Taffin is a regular at the spring edition, and that’s reason enough to visit.


Image courtesy of A La Vieille Russie

My first stop at TEFAF was A La Vieille Russie, a New York-based antique jewelry gallery that began in Russia in 1851 before moving to Paris in 1920 and finally New York in 1941. The company specializes in antique European and American jewelry, and in its earliest days counted Carl Faberge as a client. 

A La Vieille Russie had the Tiffany & Co. brooch seen above on view at TEFAF Fall featuring a large carved moonstone in a platinum and diamond mount circa 1900.


Image courtesy of A La Vieille Russie

ALVR also had several excellent examples of enamel on display, like this gold-mounted pale blue enamel clock with a seed pearl-trimmed dial crafted by Faberge workmaster H. Wigström in approximately 1910.

The commemorative clock was one of many objects created in the years following St. Petersburg’s 1903 bicentenary. It features a sepia painting depicting the city.


Image courtesy of A La Vieille Russie

Paul Templier designed this diamond and natural pearl convertible pin and pendant set in platinum in 1901.

Boasting between 5 and 6 carats of diamonds, the stones are unusual for the early 20th century, as trillion-cut diamonds aren’t typically seen in the period.

Templier is arguably one of the most important names in antique jewelry design.

Paul Templier was the son of Charles Templier, who founded the family jewelry business in 1849 in Paris. Paul took over in 1885, and his son, Raymond Templier, entered the business in 1919

and stayed there until it shuttered upon his retirement in 1965.



I was amazed at the lasting quality of the above Renaissance Revival white and black enamel link and pendant necklace set with old-mine cut diamonds and mounted in silver and gold.

The piece can be traced to England, circa 1895.

Speaking of white enamel, I spotted the sweetest gold and white enamel necklace circa 1880 at Monaco antique jewelry dealer Veronique Bamps booth.

The candy-like sapphire, topaz, aquamarine and peridot gems lent the piece a saccharine elegance.


Image courtesy of Hemmerle

Fourth-generation German design house Hemmerle has hosted private client appointments in New York City for years, but TEFAF has introduced the brand to an entirely new group of admirers.

Every piece the family-owned and -operated company creates is one-of-a-kind and produced entirely in-house from start to finish, taking hundreds of hours, or even years, to complete.

The above diamond, iron, silver and white gold earrings were new for TEFAF. The spokes actually move around the diameter of the earring.


Image courtesy of Hemmerle

Another impressive hero piece was this flexible emerald cuff, which opens sideways courtesy of an inventively engineered hinge.

It’s made of emerald, bronze and white gold.


I snapped this shot of Hemmerle's exquisite Sleeping Beauty turquoise necklace at TEFAF Fall 2019.

Upon first glance, this turquoise strand necklace appeared to be one of Hemmerle’s more subdued designs, but, as always, a little context illuminated its particular importance.

The flawless Sleeping Beauty turquoise beads took the Hemmerle family two decades to acquire; the final product is the result of that treasure hunt.


Image courtesy of Reza

I saved my favorite TEFAF stop for last. Reza’s mezzanine-level space transports visitors to the high jeweler’s Place Vendôme salon in Paris.

The second-generation company had some incredible new, one-of-a-kind treasures for the show.

This deep green, oval-cut 6.93-carat Zambian emerald was set in the house’s signature “Turban” design in white gold with 48 baguette-shaped diamonds totaling 5.85 carats.



Image courtesy of Reza

While I often gravitate to the French atelier’s exquisite colored gemstones, this particular diamond was my favorite piece from TEFAF Fall.

One of Reza’s newest creations, this J-color VS2 cushion-cut 7.02-carat old mine diamond sits in an inventive “Facette” mount, featuring a mixture of matte and polished rose gold.

Ashley Davisis the senior editor, fashion at National Jeweler, covering all things related to design, style and trends.

The Latest

5 main.jpg
Supplier BulletinNov 21, 2024
Tasha R Releases 2025 Labbelle Lab Diamond Jewelry Catalog

Sponsored by Tasha R

18-karat gold Tiffany & Co. pocket watch Captain Arthur Rostron
AuctionsNov 21, 2024
Gold Watch Gifted to Titanic Rescue Ship Captain Sells for $2M

Three Titanic survivors presented him with the personalized Tiffany & Co. timepiece about a year after the tragedy.

Harris Jewelry storefront
MajorsNov 21, 2024
Harris Jewelry Ordered to Reopen Claims Portal for Refund Requests

A federal court found that the jewelry store chain violated terms of the settlement reached after it was accused of defrauding customers.

Jewelers Mutual Group Cybersecurity
Brought to you by
Navigating Cybersecurity: Essential Guidance for Jewelers

From protecting customer data to safeguarding inventory records, it's crucial to learn how to tackle cybersecurity challenges.

Cynthia Erivo wearing Have a Heart x Cynthia Erivo collection
CollectionsNov 21, 2024
Channel Elphaba in Muse’s ‘Have a Heart x Cynthia Erivo’ Collection

Cynthia Erivo chose Dreams of Hope, an organization dedicated to empowering LGBTQA+ youth, as the charity for this year’s collection.

Weekly QuizNov 21, 2024
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Rocksbox San Francisco store
MajorsNov 21, 2024
Rocksbox Opens Pop-Up Store in San Francisco

The new space was designed to evoke a warm, inviting vibe.

Mary Moses Kinney
IndependentsNov 21, 2024
Mary Moses Kinney Is Now Part of The Edge’s Team

Kinney, who spent nearly 30 years at IJO, has been hired to head Abbott Jewelry Systems’ new virtual marketplace.

Article-Top-Image.jpg
Brought to you by
Enhance Your Expertise with IGI’s In-Person Courses in NYC

This fall, sharpen your skills in jewelry grading, quality control and diamond assessment.

Sotheby’s New York building
CrimeNov 20, 2024
Sotheby’s to Pay $6.25M Settlement to NY State for Alleged Tax Fraud

The auction house was accused of helping clients avoid paying taxes on millions of dollars’ worth of art purchased from 2010 to 2020.

Kering logo
Events & AwardsNov 20, 2024
Kering Debuts New Jewelry Award With Sustainability Focus

The four finalists will present their pieces at the 2025 JCK Las Vegas show.

Model wearing pieces from Camera Oscura collection
CollectionsNov 20, 2024
Pamela Love Channels Surrealist Artists in New Collection

The “Camera Oscura” collection showcases earring designs celebrating female Surrealist artists Claude Cahun and Leonor Fini.

Columbia Gem House “Pebbles to Pines” fundraiser
Policies & IssuesNov 20, 2024
Columbia Gem House Raises $10K for Reforestation Efforts

The money will fund the planting of 10,000 trees in critical areas across Oregon, Arizona, Montana, and other regions.

The jewelry symposium 2025
Events & AwardsNov 20, 2024
The Jewelry Symposium Opens Registration, Scholarship Applications

The event centered on advancing jewelry manufacturing technology will return to Detroit in May 2025.

Stock image of police cars with lights on
CrimeNov 19, 2024
Woman Killed in Armed Robbery of Sacramento Jewelry Store

Local reports identified the woman as the wife of the jewelry store owner.

Tsar Ferdinand I Bulgaria colored diamond pin and emerald diamond ring
AuctionsNov 19, 2024
‘A Tsar’s Treasure’ Fetches $2.9M at Sotheby’s Jewelry Sale

A collection of pieces owned by Ferdinand I, the first king of modern Bulgaria, and his family, blew away estimates in Geneva last week.

Trove NYC flagship exterior
MajorsNov 19, 2024
Trove Opens First US Flagship in NYC

The Australian jewelry box brand’s new West Village store will showcase new jewelers each month through its Designer in Residence program.

Snoop Dogg and Carolyn Rafaelian
CollectionsNov 19, 2024
Snoop Dogg’s New Jewelry Collection Is All About Love

“Lovechild” was created in partnership with Carolyn Rafaelian’s Metal Alchemist brand.

Andrea Jose jewelry
Policies & IssuesNov 18, 2024
Reciprocity Jewels Returns to NYC Jewelry Week

The group will host several curated events and an exhibition of designer jewelry made with Peruvian gold traceable to the miners’ names.

Dolly Parton and Kendra Scott
CollectionsNov 18, 2024
Dolly Parton Shines in Collaboration with Kendra Scott

The collection honors the 50th anniversary of Dolly Parton’s “Love is Like a Butterfly” song, which shares a birth year with Kendra Scott.

IGI Expressions
Events & AwardsNov 18, 2024
IGI Jewelry Design Competition Returns

This year’s theme asks designers to take inspiration from classic fairy tales.

Marie Lichtenberg and Raiz’in collection
CollectionsNov 15, 2024
Marie Lichtenberg Battles Counterfeits with New ‘Raiz’in Scapular’ Designs

The latest “Raiz’in” drop showcases a newly designed “Scapular” necklace and donates a portion of the proceeds to Make-A-Wish France.

Citizen 100th Anniversary Limited Edition #1 Pocket Watch
WatchesNov 15, 2024
Piece of the Week: Citizen’s Commemorative Pocket Watch

No. 1 out of 100, the timepiece was created to mark Citizen’s 100th anniversary and will be auctioned off at Sotheby’s next month.

My Next Question store security episode
Recorded WebinarsNov 15, 2024
Watch: 10 Tips to Keep Your Jewelry Store Secure

On the latest episode of “My Next Question,” two experts share best practices for store security during the holidays and year-round.

18th century diamond necklace
AuctionsNov 14, 2024
18th-Century Diamond Necklace Sells for Nearly $5M

Sotheby’s sold the necklace, which potentially has ties to Marie-Antoinette, for $4.8 million to a woman bidding via phone.

Saks Fifth Avenue Holiday Window
MajorsNov 14, 2024
Saks Fifth Avenue Cancels Holiday Light Display

Instead of its usual elaborate display, the store will illuminate its façade and frame the windows to highlight its flagship’s architecture.

Grand Seiko store in Honolulu Hawaii
WatchesNov 14, 2024
Grand Seiko Partners With Ben Bridge on First Hawaii Store

The new Grand Seiko boutique is located in Honolulu’s Waikiki neighborhood.

Travelers on Gem Legacy Adventures Trip
SourcingNov 13, 2024
Gem Legacy Adventures Announces 2025 Trip

Eleven spots are available for travelers to visit Northern Tanzania and Southern Kenya from July 25 to Aug. 4.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy