This diamond tiara is one of a number of lots added to the “Royal Jewels from the Bourbon-Parma Family” sale scheduled to take place at Sotheby’s Geneva in November. It is estimated to go for $350,000 to $550,000.
Geneva—There are now even more jewels from Marie Antoinette to go around.
In June, Sotheby’s announced that it would hold a jewelry auction this fall featuring pieces with exceptional historical provenance.
“Royal Jewels from the Bourbon-Parma Family” features lots once owned by Queen Marie Antoinette, King Charles X of France, the archdukes of Austria and the dukes of Parma. It will be held in Geneva on Nov. 14.
In September, Sotheby’s unveiled more pieces it was adding to the sale, including a pair of natural pearl and diamond earrings owned by Marie Antoinette and estimated to sell for between $200,000 and $300,000, pictured below.
The six-strand pearl necklace seen below also has a direct link to the iconic queen of France. Its clasp, which is unaltered, was part of her collection and features five large and 18 smaller natural pearls.
In Marie Antoinette’s day, it formed the clasp of a six-row natural pearl bracelet, one of a pair. The necklace was commissioned by later generations of the Bourbon-Parma family and strung with cultured pearls. It could go for between $5,000 and $8,000.
There are also five more diamond jewels to be auctioned come November that are linked to Antoinette, among them a diamond brooch from the late 18th century featuring a yellow diamond.
The double ribbon bow was formerly part of her collection, and it is believed the yellow diamond pendant was added later ($50,000-$80,000).
Also passed down through Marie Antoinette’s descendants is a diamond ring featuring her portrait, made in the late 18th century. It is estimated to sell for between $8,000 and $12,000.
With the recently announced additions from Sotheby’s, the jewelry auction now has a total of 10 pieces once owned by Antoinette.
The sale also now includes jewels that belonged to King Charles X (1757-1836)—the last King of France and last of the Bourbon rulers—his son the Duke of Angoulême, and their descendants.
This includes a diamond tiara, estimated at between $350,000 and $550,000 and seen below, which Sotheby’s said offers insight into how precious objects were disassembled so diamonds and gemstones could be re-used as fashion changed.
The diamonds in the piece came from a badge of the Royal Order of the Holy Spirit, a French order of chivalry founded by King Henri III in 1578; the insignia was originally owned by Charles X, Marie Antoinette’s brother-in-law.
Robert I, Duke of Parma (1848-1907). The tiara was created using the precious stones around 1912 for Archduchess Maria Anna of Austria (1882-1940) by celebrated Vienna jeweler Hübner, who designed it to allow for several different styles; the fleurs de lis on the tiara can be detached and worn separately as brooches.
Meanwhile, the frame of Charles X’s badge of the Royal Order of the Holy Spirit that originally held the diamonds has remained in the family and will also be offered in November.
Another fascinating piece that has been added to the jewelry auction is a jeweled badge of the Order of the Golden Fleece belonging to Louis Antoine of Bourbon, Duke of Angoulême (1775-1844), who married Marie Antoinette’s daughter, his cousin.
The Order of the Golden Fleece has long been considered the most prestigious and exclusive order of chivalry in the world. Sotheby’s said it’s likely that Louis Antoine received the badge following his participation in the Spanish Expedition of 1823.
Beneath a large white diamond, the badge features the traditional French royal symbol, the oriflamme, represented by a central sapphire and surrounded by flames composed of rubies. The fleece of the ram forms the lower part of the jewel, realized in gold and diamonds ($300,000 to $400,000).
Brecken Branstratoris the senior editor, gemstones at National Jeweler, covering sourcing, pricing and other developments in the colored stone sector.
