Editors

What will become of the KP?

EditorsJun 28, 2011

What will become of the KP?

When Brad Brooks-Rubin, the special advisor on conflict diamonds to the U.S. State Department, spoke about how the United States would remain vigilant on monitoring conflict diamonds even if the Kimberley Process (KP) fell apart, I thought he was speaking...

When Brad Brooks-Rubin, the special advisor on conflict diamonds to the U.S. State Department, spoke about how the United States would remain vigilant on monitoring conflict diamonds even if the Kimberley Process (KP) fell apart, I thought he was speaking theoretically.

Looking back on that panel discussion now, I am beginning to think he was speaking prophetically.

Just a couple of weeks removed from the discussion, which was held during the Las Vegas shows, the industry finds itself in a very familiar place. Yet another scheduled KP meeting has ended without being able to come to a consensus on the issue of rough exports from the Marange region of Zimbabwe.

According to sources close to the negotiations, the United States, Canada, Australia, Israel and the Europe Union lined up on one side of the debate. They wouldn’t agree to the Marange deal unless it included some kind of mechanism for supervising exports from an area once (and still perhaps) riddled with human rights abuses and rampant diamond smuggling.

“This was the major stumbling block,” the source said.

On the other side of the debate, Zimbabwe, backed by nations including South Africa, equates constant monitoring of rough exports from Marange with colonialism and wants no part of it. (Interestingly, Russia, along with China and India--two countries consistently mentioned as having a keen interest in the Marange goods--reportedly did not take sides at the intersessional.)

And that’s how the deal ends, at 2 p.m. in the afternoon on Thursday afternoon. Officials from the DRC, which hosted the intersessional as current chair of the KP, came in and said time was up, the meeting was over.

No resolution was reached, again. So where does this leave the industry? It’s not an easy question to answer.

Both Jewelers of America and the World Diamond Council (WDC) have said publicly that goods from Marange shouldn’t be traded as the KP officially remains at an impasse. WDC President Eli Izhakoff stressed in a statement that the meeting didn’t end with “any parties slamming the door on the KP.” Efforts are ongoing (and seemingly never-ending at this point) to arrive at a consensus.

In the meantime, certain parties in the industry seem to be busy making other plans, regardless of whether the KP makes it or not.

Rewinding to the KP panel discussion held in Las Vegas, Brooks-Rubin mentioned the possibility that in the United States, the Dodd-Frank

Wall Street Reform and Consumer Protection Act, which already contains a section addressing “conflict” minerals, could be expanded to address the issue of conflict diamonds.

He also said that “if the KP falls apart” the U.S. government would remain vigilant about conflict diamonds. “Congress won’t simply repeal the Clean Diamond Trade Act and say, ‘That was a nice experiment. Let’s go back to the way things were,’” he said.
Michelle Graffis the editor-in-chief at National Jeweler, directing the publication’s coverage both online and in print.

The Latest

G Shock Coca Cola
WatchesJun 15, 2026
G-Shock, Coca-Cola Partner on Bottle-Inspired Watch

The special-edition piece marks the 140th anniversary of the iconic beverage brand.

Buddha Mama earrings
TrendsJun 15, 2026
Amanda’s Style File: Tiny Charms Are Trending

Here are 13 small charms to inspire your layered looks this summer.

16th century flower cluster hogback diamond ring
AuctionsJun 12, 2026
16th-Century ‘Hogback’ Diamond Ring Going Up for Auction in London

Found by a metal detectorist, the ring likely belonged to a wealthy, possibly royal, owner, said Noonans.

DCA-NJ-article-1872x1052-060826.jpg
Brought to you by
Building the Future of Jewelry Retail: DCA Expands Education, Leadership Development, and Workforce Solutions

DCA is preparing the next generation of professionals by supporting workforce development, leadership growth, and career advancement.

Chouette Designs Margaux Ring
CollectionsJun 12, 2026
Chouette Designs To Launch Collection Celebrating All Types of Love

Our Pride Month Piece of the Week, the “Margaux” ring, is part of the wife-and-wife team’s new “Lovestoned” collection.

Weekly QuizJun 11, 2026
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
CBG logo
Events & AwardsJun 12, 2026
CBG Announces Plans for Phoenix Show

The group has named the keynote speaker and announced a new pavilion for its next event, which is slated for September.

Grandview Klein diamonds
SourcingJun 11, 2026
Grandview Klein, London Jewelers Partner To Cut 63-Carat Rough

The big stone will be fashioned into a 20.26-carat diamond in celebration of the retailer’s 100th anniversary this year.

PG-05-SHOT-2-LUCIDA.033 1.png
Brought to you by
All Eyes on Gold Prices. Alternatives to Look For. And What to BEWARE of in Vegas

As gold prices rise, today’s retailers are looking for alternatives at prices that will appeal to wider audiences.

Marie-Laure Cérède
MajorsJun 11, 2026
Former Cartier Creative Director To Head Chanel’s Jewelry Creation Studio

Marie-Laure Cérède will join Chanel as the new director of its jewelry creation studio, starting in October.

Smiling Rocks booth at JCK Las Vegas 2026
Lab-GrownJun 11, 2026
Smiling Rocks’ ‘Wish Jar’ Generates 100+ Wishes in Las Vegas

At the JCK show, the lab-grown diamond brand teamed up with Jewelers for Children to support Make-A-Wish India.

Ilana McCabe
SourcingJun 11, 2026
Signet Jewelers Exec Joins Diamonds Do Good Board

Ilana McCabe is Signet’s vice president of public relations and brand communications.

Azure blue diamond and 5.04-carat fancy vivid blue diamond
AuctionsJun 10, 2026
31.62-Carat ‘Azure Blue’ Diamond Sells For $8M+ at Christie’s

It was a banner day for blue gemstones, with another blue diamond topping $8 million and a 41-carat sapphire going for $2.3 million.

Saks Fifth Avenue New York City storefront
MajorsJun 10, 2026
Saks Global Receives Bankruptcy Court Approval for Reorganization

The approval means the retailer is on track to exit bankruptcy proceedings this summer.

Jalen Javon Davis and Leslie La Vun Jones II
CrimeJun 10, 2026
2 Suspects Arrested in Texas Jewelry Store Robbery

The men are believed to be part of the group of several masked suspects that robbed Marc Robinson Jewelers in April.

Sylvie Levine wearing engagement ring
CollectionsJun 10, 2026
Sylvie Debuts ‘Elevated’ Bridal Collection Inspired By Designer’s Ring

The bridal-focused brand is also launching its Custom Atelier this summer, a digital custom design tool for its authorized retailers.

Russ Whitehouse
MajorsJun 09, 2026
Wilkerson's Russ Whitehouse Retires

The industry veteran is bringing his 56-year run in the fine jewelry sector to an end.

Pride in the Industry LGBTQ+ Voices in Jewelry panel
Events & AwardsJun 09, 2026
Pride Month Panel to Highlight LGBTQ+ Jewelry Voices

The panel discussion will feature LGBTQ+ leaders across the jewelry, luxury, and creative industries.

Marie Lichtenberg Smash Collection Campaign Imagery
CollectionsJun 09, 2026
Marie Lichtenberg’s New Capsule Collection Is a Smash, Literally

Inspired by a locket that got run over, the “Smash” capsule collection reimagines the shape of Lichtenberg’s signature style.

Katherine Whitacre
MajorsJun 09, 2026
Frederick Goldman Names Director of Sales for Southeast

The company has promoted Katherine Whitacre to the role.

Collage of new Stuller items
MajorsJun 08, 2026
Stuller Expands Selection of Lab-Grown Diamonds, Demi-Fine Jewelry

The jewelry manufacturer has added Taylor Swift-esque diamond shapes, and more silver, gold vermeil, and gold-plated jewelry.

De Beers Group’s Sally Morrison
SourcingJun 08, 2026
Sally Morrison to Depart De Beers This Summer

Morrison has been marketing diamonds on and off since the early 2000s and said she is leaving to “pursue new projects.”

Lauren K Gemma pendant
TrendsJun 08, 2026
Amanda’s Style File: June’s Birthstone Trio

Those born in June can celebrate with pearl, alexandrite, and moonstone jewelry.

Overnight Mountings Ring Builder Platform
TechnologyJun 08, 2026
Overnight Mountings Launches Ring Builder Platform

The platform allows retailers to guide clients through a customizable engagement ring buying experience in a branded interface.

Dunkelberger’s Fine Jewelry
IndependentsJun 05, 2026
Pennsylvania Jewelry Store To Close After 79 Years

Jim Springer, owner of Dunkelberger’s Fine Jewelry, is heading into retirement.

Stock image of a person shopping at the grocery store
SurveysJun 05, 2026
Consumers to Cut Back on Spending Amid Rising Prices, Survey Shows

When conducting its May consumer confidence survey, The Conference Board asked extra questions about consumers’ budgeting strategies.

Rebel Jewelry Tunnel Charm
CollectionsJun 05, 2026
Rebel Jewelry’s Charm Symbolizes Perseverance for Pride Month

The “Tunnel” charm, our Piece of the Week, celebrates Pride Month with its design inspired by hope and the light at the end of the tunnel.

Three gold rings set with yellow- and brown-hued diamonds
SourcingJun 05, 2026
State of Diamonds: The Way Forward for Natural Diamonds

The jewelry industry is reassessing its positioning as Gen Z reshapes the retail landscape and lab grown continues to gain market share.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy