IndependentsSep 04, 2026
Orloff Jewelers Will Soon Unveil a Bigger, Better LocationThe California jeweler is renovating its store in Fresno, with plans to show off the new space in December.
TrendsFeb 15, 2018
Clearly Trending: Translucent Stones
Rock crystal and moonstone are elevated when paired with gold and diamonds.
Adam Foster 18-karat yellow gold ring with 23 carats of carved quartz hand-painted with crushed mother-of-pearl and white diamonds ($9,990)
New York--From imaginative and avant-garde to boldly primitive, designers are currently shaping their jewelry visions with translucent gemstones like rock crystal and moonstone.
White diamonds retain popularity, in part, because they’re neutral and suit every skin tone, and quartz and moonstone are their less expensive equivalent.
These materials also allow designers to work with larger stones at a more economical price point, though some designers add an abundance of diamonds or colored gemstones to elevate their translucent stone pieces to one-of-a-kind works of art that fetch thousands of dollars.
Karma El Khalil, for example, has created an elaborate choker of elongated hexagon moonstones. Framed by white diamonds and set in 18-karat white gold, which emphasize the cool tones of the moonstone, the piece feels like the epitome of luxury, and its $60,000 price point reflects that.
Likewise, Nigaam, which often favors Art Deco motifs, sources the highest-quality Brazilian crystals to incorporate into its collections. Its rock crystal, emerald and diamond bangle features completely clear, hand-cut crystals, set side by side to form the base of the design, a jewelry engineering feat. It retails for $35,000.
One reason designers favor these translucent materials is because they can be carved and engraved.
Adam Foster, a rising designer to watch, has used the translucence of rock crystal because it is the medium best suited to displaying his intricate carvings, which are executed in the same vein as those of Wallace Chan.
Alice Cicolini 9-karat yellow gold necklace with rainbow moonstone pendant and diamond accents, $1,130
Available at Twist
Available at Twist
Bleecker & Prince’s natural crystal hoop earrings with diamonds set in 14-karat yellow gold bezels, $1,200
Available at BleeckerandPrince.com
Available at BleeckerandPrince.com
David Webb 18-karat white gold, platinum, rock crystal and diamond cuff, price upon request
Available at David Webb
Available at David Webb
Doryn Wallach 18-karat yellow gold cocktail ring with rock crystal, emerald and black diamonds, $6,850
Available at DorynWallach.com
Available at DorynWallach.com
Elie Top Seal ring in 18-karat white gold and silver with diamonds and rock crystal, $8,680
Available at Dover Street Market
Available at Dover Street Market
Elizabeth Gage rock crystal and 18-karat yellow gold necklace, $11,250
Available at Elizabeth-Gage.com
Available at Elizabeth-Gage.com
Judy Geib 18-karat yellow gold, silver and rock crystal earrings, $1,620
Available at TwistOnline.com
Available at TwistOnline.com
Karma El Khalil 18-karat white gold necklace with diamonds and moonstone, $60,000
Available at Roseark.com
Available at Roseark.com
Nigaam bangle in 18-karat white gold with Brazilian rock crystal, emerald and diamonds, $35,000
Available through sales@nigaam.com
Available through sales@nigaam.com
Nikos Koulis 18-karat white gold earrings set with white diamonds in clear enamel, $25,200
Available at Bergdorf Goodman
Available at Bergdorf Goodman
Noor Fares 18-karat yellow gold necklace with moonstone and diamond, $1,789
Available at Matches Fashion
Available at Matches Fashion
Sorellina 18-karat yellow gold earring with rock crystal, black rhodium and white diamonds, $1,450
Available at London Jewelers
Available at London Jewelers
Walters Faith engravable pendant in 18-karat rose gold with rock crystal and diamonds ($3,990 plus $250 for up to four letters) on an 18-karat rose gold chain sold separately ($3,300 for a 16-inch chain)
Available at WaltersFaith.com
Available at WaltersFaith.com
Michelle Fantaci 14-karat yellow gold and quartz necklace, $1,920
Available at Broken English
Available at Broken English
Amrapali 18-karat yellow gold ring with rock crystal and diamond, $7,995
Available at Legend Amrapali
Available at Legend Amrapali
Elie Top uses carving techniques to create seal-style rings with complicated insignia that fit the medieval look of his latest collection.
Not all carvings need be so intricate. David Webb’s archive is filled with pieces that employ rock crystal; they provide the weight that was so essential to Webb’s aesthetic. Many of the pieces are carved into large, curved planes that emphasize the heft of the material.
Carving is also an essential element of designer Alice Cicolini’s oeuvre. Moonstone and quartz are materials she frequents in her signature carved pieces, which she shapes into delicate flowers and statement bold “domes” inspired by architecture.
Walters Faith and Pascale Monvoisin are two lines that use crystal to engrave words and simplistic designs. The former uses quartz as a clean backdrop for a monogram engraving on a pendant, and the latter etches specific words with primitive symbols into quartz, emphasizing the piece’s handmade quality.
And some renditions of the
translucent stone style are simpler still, like Michelle Fantaci’s crystal orb pendant or Cyril Studio’s crystal sphere-centered line. Each evokes the natural, mystical quality of the stone, displaying it in a simple, polished form and letting that shape inform the rest of the respective pieces.
Of the designers embracing the clear trend, Nikos Koulis might have done so with the most fervor, debuting a growing collection of clear jewels in white gold, diamond and what was supposed to be a top-secret material, at the Couture show last year.
As is usually the case with Koulis, he has already been copied by several imitators and the material was revealed to be clear enamel. Still, his process is still highly unusual, so much so that he has patented his own specific technique, which is handcrafted in his Athens workshop.
Click through the above slideshow to see the many varied interpretation of the clear and translucent gems.
Of the designers embracing the clear trend, Nikos Koulis might have done so with the most fervor, debuting a growing collection of clear jewels in white gold, diamond and what was supposed to be a top-secret material, at the Couture show last year.
As is usually the case with Koulis, he has already been copied by several imitators and the material was revealed to be clear enamel. Still, his process is still highly unusual, so much so that he has patented his own specific technique, which is handcrafted in his Athens workshop.
Click through the above slideshow to see the many varied interpretation of the clear and translucent gems.
The Latest
CollectionsSep 04, 2026
Chelsea Gabrielle Transforms Pilates Reformer Springs Into Ring A lifelong practitioner of Pilates, Gabrielle looked to the springs’ tension and suspension when creating this ring, our Piece of the Week.
Events & AwardsSep 04, 2026
JCK Industry Fund Accepting 2027 ApplicationsThe deadline to apply is Nov. 13.
Brought to you by
Your Piece Could Be the One Editors Talk AboutSubmit your pieces for a chance to win in this year's competition.
AuctionsSep 04, 2026
Christie's Names New Global Head of WatchesThe auction house has promoted Remi Guillemin, formerly its head of watches for the Americas and EMEA, to the role.
Weekly QuizSep 03, 2026
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
EditorsSep 03, 2026
Q&A: Simon G.’s CEO on Why He Won’t Use AI for Jewelry DesignZaven Ghanimian discussed the value of human craftsmanship and where the implementation of artificial intelligence does work.
Events & AwardsSep 03, 2026
Here Are the First Recipients of Nina Pugliese Memorial Scholarship Jewelers of America also revealed the recipients of the Seymour & Evelyn Holtzman Bench Scholarship and its own scholarship programs.
Brought to you by
Why More Jewelry Retailers Are Hosting Turnkey Estate Buying EventsRetailers are seeking new ways to attract customers, increase traffic, and create revenue – Estate buying events are a popular solution.
WatchesSep 03, 2026
Robert Pattinson Joins Jaeger-LeCoultre as Brand AmbassadorThe British actor, known for his roles in “Twilight” and “The Odyssey,” will star in a campaign for the Master Control Chronometre.
CollectionsSep 03, 2026
Sydney Evan Celebrates 25 Years With 4 New CollectionsThe “Confetti Disco,” “Champagne Cheers,” “Tuxedo,” and “Classic Punk” jewelry collections each capture a distinct spirit of celebration.
CrimeSep 02, 2026
CA Jeweler Gets 5 Years in ‘Phantom Rolex’ Ponzi SchemeNelson Holdo of Newport Beach pleaded guilty to multiple counts of felony grand theft and writing bad checks and was sentenced Monday.
AuctionsSep 02, 2026
If You Love Cats, This Jewelry Auction Is for YouCat ladies of the jewelry world, unite. Sandy Lerner’s “significant” collection of cat jewelry and other objects is going up for auction.
MajorsSep 02, 2026
Messika Names Former Omega Exec as New President, CEO of AmericasArnaud Michon, the former Omega USA President, will now lead Messika’s Americas region during its international development.
Events & AwardsSep 02, 2026
Emerald’s New Owner Introduces ‘Glitter in the Grove’The branding references the back-to-back jewelry shows that new parent company Forge will host in Miami's Coconut Grove this November.
AuctionsSep 01, 2026
UK Woman Uncovers Rare Patek Philippe Watch in Mom’s Jewelry BoxThe stainless steel Patek Philippe “Calatrava” watch from the 1930s sold for nearly $80,000 at a recent Hansons Cornwall auction.
ColumnistsSep 01, 2026
Your Jewelry Marketing Has a Bridal ProblemEngagement rings are important but don’t ignore the customers who are buying jewelry “just because,” Emmanuel Raheb writes.
MajorsSep 01, 2026
Kering Names New Pomellato, DoDo CEOsFormer Pomellato CEO Sabina Belli has been named president of Kering Italia amid a shakeup of Kering's new Jewelry division.
MajorsSep 01, 2026
Anne Marie Shulman Joins GPA GlobalThe veteran luxury packaging executive was appointed to help the company grow its North American business.
CrimeAug 31, 2026
$4M Van Cleef & Arpels Diamond Necklace Snatched From Vienna Museum Once the property of an Egyptian queen, the necklace was part of a larger exhibition of VCA jewelry at the Museum of Applied Arts (MAK).
GradingAug 31, 2026
GIA, Gübelin Gem Lab Confirm New Paraíba Tourmaline Deposit in EthiopiaThe labs’ separate investigations each determined that the East African country is producing copper-bearing tourmaline.
Events & AwardsAug 31, 2026
Wisconsin Museum to Host Jewelry Exhibition“Chicago Collects: Jewelry in Perspective” at the Oshkosh Public Museum will feature works by Fabergé, Lalique, and Louis Comfort Tiffany.
CollectionsAug 31, 2026
Catbird Launches First Men’s Jewelry CollectionThe “Worn Well” collection is Catbird's take on classic men's jewelry.
CollectionsAug 28, 2026
Dolly Parton Would Have Loved This Butterfly Necklace This Buddha Mama butterfly is our Piece of the Week honoring the legend, who embraced the beautiful insect as her symbol.
SourcingAug 28, 2026
Gareth Penny to Give Opening Speech at CIBJO Centenary CongressThe former De Beers CEO, and perhaps its next owner, will be a featured speaker at the event, slated for Sept. 4-7 in Italy.
IndependentsAug 28, 2026
Day’s Jewelers Honored With 3 Workplace AwardsThe employee-owned jeweler was named a “Best Place to Work” in Maine, New Hampshire, and for women.
CollectionsAug 27, 2026
Pandora Expands ‘Talisman’ Collection as Lawsuit Continues The second iteration of the jewelry collection was inspired by the zodiac and the four elements: earth, water, air and fire.
SourcingAug 27, 2026
OFAC Renews License Allowing Import of ‘Grandfathered’ Russian Diamonds General License 104B supersedes General License 104A, which was set to expire on Sept. 1.
