Editors

A closer look at the ‘Kinshasa contract’

EditorsNov 08, 2011

A closer look at the ‘Kinshasa contract’

Last week at its plenary meeting in the Democratic Republic of the Congo, the Kimberley Process (KP) ended its long-standing impasse on the issue of exporting rough diamonds from the Marange area of Zimbabwe, more due to the fact that...

Last week at its plenary meeting in the Democratic Republic of the Congo, the Kimberley Process (KP) ended its long-standing impasse on the issue of exporting rough diamonds from the Marange area of Zimbabwe, more due to the fact that United States abstained from voting than because the situation there has necessarily improved or the process has made great strides in bringing everyone together. It reminds me of that last, lone juror who believes the defendant is guilty but bows from pressure from other jurors to switch their verdict to “not guilty” so the trial will end and everybody can just go home.

The agreement allows for imports to begin immediately from two mines and for monitors to be able to visit other Marange mines and see what conditions are like there before they begin exporting.
 
Since the meeting, the U.S. State Department has said that it chose not to stand in the way of the KP finally reaching a deal--a compromise that, it admits, could have been “stronger”-- rather than allow the stalemate to continue. Many have speculated that the United States agreed to the exports so it could win the KP chairmanship for 2012, which it ultimately did.

So now the KP, and the industry as a whole, are faced with two interesting propositions going forward.

1) We’ve now made an agreement with Zimbabwe, but much speculation abounds about the government actually keeping its word. As Zimbabwean human right activist Farai Maguwu observed last week, “Zimbabwe has not honored the previous agreements and there is no reason for optimism that Zimbabwe will honor these agreements.”

2) The United States now is in the driver’s seat of the KP and, ostensibly, thinks it can push through some major reforms, reforms deemed necessary by Jewelers of America and the Diamond Importers and Manufacturers Association (DMIA) prior to last week’s meeting. I will be curious to see how this plays out 2012. As we all know, the KP is structured as such that a complete consensus is needed to move forward on any issue, and that has not always been so easy to obtain.

It took two years to reach an agreement on Zimbabwe (keeping in mind that there was no true consensus reached there; when push came to shove, the United States simply did not vote). So, how easily will more changes come in 2012? Does the United States think

it has curried enough favor by abstaining on the Zimbabwe issue to push through other reforms it deems necessary? I guess only time will tell.

In the meantime, it’s worth noting for retailers here in the United States that despite the KP vote, Marange diamonds remain illegal because of U.S. sanctions on Robert Mugabe and his government. JA maintains that members avoid trading in Marange stones, and learn as much as possible about their supply chain, difficult as that may be.

As JA alluded to in the release it penned with the DMIA, the industry also is the process of working on a mechanism for greater inventory control that would, ultimately, help bolster consumer confidence, above and beyond what the KP can offer.

I don’t have many details on this initiative right now but it will be interesting to see what this industry coalition comes up with, and if the United States is able to make any headway in overhauling the KP.

It looks like 2012 is shaping up to be as interesting as 2011.
Michelle Graffis the editor-in-chief at National Jeweler, directing the publication’s coverage both online and in print.

The Latest

Bonhams New Bond Street London flagship
AuctionsOct 24, 2025
Bonhams Under New Ownership, Top Executives Replaced

London-based investment firm Pemberton Asset Management acquired the auction house for an undisclosed amount.

De Beers Diamond View Zoom machine with monitor
GradingOct 24, 2025
DMIA to Hold Diamond Testing Instrument Demo

The workshop will give attendees the chance to try out and ask questions about three different diamond verification instruments.

Two brooches stolen in the October 2025 heist at the Louvre Museum in Paris
CrimeOct 24, 2025
Video Emerges of Louvre Jewelry Robbers Fleeing the Scene

The footage shows two of the jewelry heist suspects descending from the second floor of the museum and then escaping via scooter.

BTYB10.25_Header.jpg
Brought to you by
Are Earrings an Overlooked Category? What Retailers Need to Know Now

As the holiday season quickly approaches, consider stocking one category that sometimes gets overlooked: earrings.

Wyld Box Jewelry Ray of Light Large Drop Earrings
CollectionsOct 24, 2025
Piece of the Week: Wyld Box Jewelry’s ‘Ray of Light’ Earrings

Founder and designer Rosanna Fiedler looked to a vintage Cartier clutch when designing the sunlight-inspired drop earrings.

Weekly QuizOct 16, 2025
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Tiffany & Co. Bird on a Rock pendant
FinancialsOct 23, 2025
Jewelry Sales Resilient Despite Struggles at LVMH, Kering

The luxury conglomerates faced a challenging Q3 amid geopolitical and economic tensions.

Cullinan Diamond Mine plant
SourcingOct 23, 2025
Petra Diamonds Turns to Shareholders to Raise Capital

The struggling diamond mining company, which owns the historic Cullinan mine, has launched a rights issue to raise about $25 million.

LIM-401 2024 National Jeweler Supplier Bulletin- iD100 Web and Eblast FINAL (2) (1).jpg
Brought to you by
Protect Your Customers and Your Business

You deserve to know what you are selling–to protect your customers as well as your business and your reputation.

Million Dollar Hip Hop Watches by Leon Schäfers, Jeanette Lang, Tobias Kargoll
WatchesOct 23, 2025
‘Million Dollar Hip Hop Watches’ Recounts Watch History

The book details the journey of watches as symbols of hard-earned success in hip-hop for artists like 2Pac, Jay-Z, and more.

Alexis Vourvoulis
AuctionsOct 23, 2025
Freeman’s | Hindman Names New VP, Senior Specialist for Jewelry & Watches

Alexis Vourvoulis, who most recently worked at Tiffany & Co., brings more than two decades of jewelry experience to her new role.

Taylor Swift engagement ring Greenwich St
TrendsOct 22, 2025
The Taylor Swift Effect: Antique Diamonds Edition

The superstar’s August engagement put the stamp of approval on an already hot engagement ring trend.

Rahaminov Diamonds Emerald-Cut Diamond Bracelet
TrendsOct 22, 2025
Don’t Forget These Diamond Jewelry Trends When Stocking for the Holidays

Retailers should offer classic styles with a twist that are a perfect fit for layered looks, experts say.

Fancy vivid purplish pink diamond
AuctionsOct 22, 2025
Pink Diamond, Vanderbilt Jewels to Headline Phillips’ Geneva Auction

The nearly 7-carat fancy vivid purplish pink diamond could sell for around $9 million.

“Storied Diamond Desert Sands of Eternity” engagement ring and wedding band
SourcingOct 22, 2025
In ‘Storied Diamond,’ Jared Jewelers Is Emphasizing the Journey

The retailer’s new collection of engagement rings and fashion jewelry is set with natural diamonds that are traceable via blockchain.

Tiffany & Co. Bird on a Rock by Tiffany High Jewelry Lariat
CollectionsOct 22, 2025
Tiffany & Co.’s ‘Bird on a Rock’ Finds New Perch

Chief Artistic Officer Nathalie Verdeille has reimagined the iconic design in both figurative and abstract creations.

Jewelers for Children Halloween contest
Events & AwardsOct 22, 2025
JFC Kicks Off Halloween Costume Challenge

Five dollars buys one vote toward an industry professional you want to see dressed up as a hero, or a villain, this Halloween.

Hillsborough show
Events & AwardsOct 22, 2025
Hillsborough Antique Show Gets New Owner

Recently acquired by KIL Promotions, the November edition of the public show in San Mateo, California, will be held Nov. 7-9.

Bicolor pink and colorless diamond
GradingOct 21, 2025
GIA Examines Rare Bicolor Pink Diamond

The stone’s two zones, one pink and one colorless, may have formed at two different times, the lab said.

Pomellato Rodeo Drive Flagship Exterior
MajorsOct 21, 2025
Pomellato Brings ‘Global Attitude’ to Rodeo Drive Flagship

Hollywood glamour meets Milanese sophistication in the design of Pomellato’s new store in Beverly Hills, California.

Grown Brilliance NYC Flagship Exterior
Lab-GrownOct 21, 2025
Grown Brilliance Opens First Flagship

The New York City store showcases a chandelier with 1,500 carats of lab-grown diamonds designed by an FIT student.

Douriean Fletcher Messenger Collection
Events & AwardsOct 21, 2025
‘Douriean Fletcher: Jewelry of the Afrofuture’ Opens at MAD

The Museum of Arts and Design's new exhibition features 75 pieces by the designer, best known for her work in the “Black Panther” films.

Sothebys the glowing rose pink diamond
AuctionsOct 20, 2025
Sotheby's To Auction 10-Carat Vivid Pink Diamond

Making its auction debut, "The Glowing Rose" is expected to fetch $20 million at the November jewelry sale in Geneva.

2025_Gemfields logo.jpg
SourcingOct 20, 2025
2 Mozambique Police Officers Killed at Gemfields’ Ruby Mine

They were attacked on Oct. 15, as approximately 40 miners without licenses marched on the mine’s gate.

Empress Eugénie’s pearl and diamond tiara
CrimeOct 20, 2025
See the ‘Priceless’ Jewels Stolen During Daytime Heist at the Louvre

It took the masked thieves less than 10 minutes to steal eight irreplaceable jewels from two display cases in the museum’s Apollo Gallery.

Lauren Gayda
SourcingOct 20, 2025
Pristine Gems Names New Director of European Sales

Gemologist Lauren Gayda has previously worked at The Clear Cut, Taylor & Hart, and Effy Jewelry.

Charles London, Mayer and Fran Udell, Mark and Candy Udell
IndependentsOct 17, 2025
From the Jazz Age to the Information Age: London Jewelers Turns 100

In 2026, the jewelry retailer will celebrate a milestone only a small percentage of family-owned businesses survive to see.

The Edit – A Gallery of Italian Jewelry Masterpieces Graphic
Events & AwardsOct 17, 2025
An Edit of Italian Jewels Is Coming to NYC

The new showcase dedicated to Italian jewelry design is set for Oct. 29-30.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy