Editors

A closer look at the ‘Kinshasa contract’

EditorsNov 08, 2011

A closer look at the ‘Kinshasa contract’

Last week at its plenary meeting in the Democratic Republic of the Congo, the Kimberley Process (KP) ended its long-standing impasse on the issue of exporting rough diamonds from the Marange area of Zimbabwe, more due to the fact that...

Last week at its plenary meeting in the Democratic Republic of the Congo, the Kimberley Process (KP) ended its long-standing impasse on the issue of exporting rough diamonds from the Marange area of Zimbabwe, more due to the fact that United States abstained from voting than because the situation there has necessarily improved or the process has made great strides in bringing everyone together. It reminds me of that last, lone juror who believes the defendant is guilty but bows from pressure from other jurors to switch their verdict to “not guilty” so the trial will end and everybody can just go home.

The agreement allows for imports to begin immediately from two mines and for monitors to be able to visit other Marange mines and see what conditions are like there before they begin exporting.
 
Since the meeting, the U.S. State Department has said that it chose not to stand in the way of the KP finally reaching a deal--a compromise that, it admits, could have been “stronger”-- rather than allow the stalemate to continue. Many have speculated that the United States agreed to the exports so it could win the KP chairmanship for 2012, which it ultimately did.

So now the KP, and the industry as a whole, are faced with two interesting propositions going forward.

1) We’ve now made an agreement with Zimbabwe, but much speculation abounds about the government actually keeping its word. As Zimbabwean human right activist Farai Maguwu observed last week, “Zimbabwe has not honored the previous agreements and there is no reason for optimism that Zimbabwe will honor these agreements.”

2) The United States now is in the driver’s seat of the KP and, ostensibly, thinks it can push through some major reforms, reforms deemed necessary by Jewelers of America and the Diamond Importers and Manufacturers Association (DMIA) prior to last week’s meeting. I will be curious to see how this plays out 2012. As we all know, the KP is structured as such that a complete consensus is needed to move forward on any issue, and that has not always been so easy to obtain.

It took two years to reach an agreement on Zimbabwe (keeping in mind that there was no true consensus reached there; when push came to shove, the United States simply did not vote). So, how easily will more changes come in 2012? Does the United States think

it has curried enough favor by abstaining on the Zimbabwe issue to push through other reforms it deems necessary? I guess only time will tell.

In the meantime, it’s worth noting for retailers here in the United States that despite the KP vote, Marange diamonds remain illegal because of U.S. sanctions on Robert Mugabe and his government. JA maintains that members avoid trading in Marange stones, and learn as much as possible about their supply chain, difficult as that may be.

As JA alluded to in the release it penned with the DMIA, the industry also is the process of working on a mechanism for greater inventory control that would, ultimately, help bolster consumer confidence, above and beyond what the KP can offer.

I don’t have many details on this initiative right now but it will be interesting to see what this industry coalition comes up with, and if the United States is able to make any headway in overhauling the KP.

It looks like 2012 is shaping up to be as interesting as 2011.
Michelle Graffis the editor-in-chief at National Jeweler, directing the publication’s coverage both online and in print.

The Latest

Shot of attendees at a JA New York jewelry trade show
Events & AwardsMay 22, 2026
Instore Buys JA New York Show

The deal closed this week, which means Instore will produce the JA NY show slated to take place this fall.

Buccellati Waikiki gold and diamond earrings
FinancialsMay 22, 2026
Richemont’s Jewelry Brands Lead the Charge in Q4

The company’s jewelry sales were up in Q4 and the fiscal year, with Richemont raising prices in part because of the cost of gold.

Leigh Maxwell Bauble Earrings
CollectionsMay 22, 2026
Leigh Maxwell Celebrates 5 Years at Couture With ‘Bauble’ Collection

The “Bauble” capsule collection of colorful one-of-a-kinds includes our Piece of the Week, the “Bauble” earrings, featuring rose zircon.

PG-05-SHOT-2-LUCIDA.033 1.png
Brought to you by
All Eyes on Gold Prices. Alternatives to Look For. And What to BEWARE of in Vegas

As gold prices rise, today’s retailers are looking for alternatives at prices that will appeal to wider audiences.

Stuller 2026-2027 packaging and display catalog
MajorsMay 22, 2026
Stuller’s New Packaging, Display Catalog Is Out

The updated catalog has a newly dedicated section for gift wrapping.

Weekly QuizMay 21, 2026
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
My Next Question, Episode 5: Amanda Gizzi, Michelle Graff, Frank Everett
PodcastsMay 21, 2026
Episode 5: Sotheby’s Frank Everett Puts the Auction Market in Perspective

Everett covers colored stones’ surging popularity, the mellow return of the “Mellon Blue,” and his “The Devil Wears Prada” doppelgänger.

Springer’s Jewelers new flagship rendering
IndependentsMay 21, 2026
Springer’s Jewelers’ New Flagship Will Serve Next-Gen Luxury Shoppers

Fourth-generation CEO Lilly Mullen wants to emphasize experience, connection, and personalized service.

1872x1052-NextGem-2026-National-Jeweler-Advertorial.jpg
Brought to you by
How Modern Training Is Becoming a Competitive Advantage for Jewelry Retailers

With the trade and customer trust in mind, GIA® developed NextGem™ – on-demand training designed specifically for retail.

Nina Pugliese
Events & AwardsMay 21, 2026
JA Announces Nina Pugliese Memorial Scholarship

The new award, created in partnership with Henne Jewelers, honors the late designer’s legacy through supporting jewelry education.

WFDB International Summit
SourcingMay 21, 2026
Botswana, Angola Join WFDB

The addition of the diamond-producing countries as nation affiliated members broadens the federation’s global representation, WFDB said.

Jewelry scam flyer and police officer handing flyer to elderly man
CrimeMay 20, 2026
NYPD Warns of Jewelry Swap Scams Targeting Seniors

The NYPD is warning elderly New Yorkers to keep their jewelry hidden when walking outside to avoid being a target.

New Adornment & Theory jewelry store in West Town, Chicago
IndependentsMay 20, 2026
Adornment & Theory’s New Store Feels Like Home

Designer Viviana Langhoff has realized her dream of owning a space for her Chicago jewelry store that looks and feels like her brand.

Couture Show Logo
Events & AwardsMay 20, 2026
Here Is Couture’s 2026 Education Lineup

The sessions will run from Friday, May 29, to Sunday, May 31, with one being a live taping of an episode of Couture’s podcast.

Morgan P. Richardson
Lab-GrownMay 20, 2026
Savannah Friedkin Jewelry Names New CEO

Former Stephanie Gottlieb Fine Jewelry executive Morgan P. Richardson is joining the lab-grown diamond jewelry brand.

Audemars Piguet x Swatch white Royal Pop watch
WatchesMay 19, 2026
Here’s the AP x Swatch Pocket Watch That Caused Pandemonium

The $400 pocket watch is a blend of Audemars Piguet’s iconic eight-sided Royal Oak and Swatch’s unserious Pop watches from the ‘80s.

Chris Ploof Modern Electrum Collection Milgrain Rows and Diamonds Ring
CollectionsMay 19, 2026
Chris Ploof’s New Collection Makes an Ancient Metal Modern

With gold prices on the rise, the “Modern Electrum” collection uses an alternative, non-tarnishing metal alloy composed of gold and silver.

Ellen and Michael Fruchtman
IndependentsMay 19, 2026
Ellen and Michael Fruchtman Retire, Sell Marketing Agency

Fruchtman Marketing has new owners, Erin Moyer-Carballea and Manuel Carballea, and will relocate to Miami.

Peter Smith and National Jeweler contributor
ColumnistsMay 19, 2026
Peter Smith: The (Mostly) Immutable Sales Truths

In a column for the 2026 State of the Majors issue, Smith lists 10 time-tested principles about sales that still ring true.

Edahn Golan, Tenoris co-founder and National Jeweler contributor
ColumnistsMay 18, 2026
Edahn Golan: What a K-Shaped Economy Means for Fine Jewelry

In a column for the 2026 State of the Majors issue, Golan spells out how the growing economic divide in the U.S. is reshaping the market.

Foundrae Limitless Expansion of Joy and Hope Collection Campaign Imagery
CollectionsMay 18, 2026
Foundrae’s New Collection Taps Into Joy

The “Limitless Expansion of Joy and Hope” collection evokes summer through colored gemstones and motifs of butterflies and florals.

Inchiquin emerald
CollectionsMay 18, 2026
Hancocks London Acquires Historic ‘Inchiquin’ Emerald

The jewel, circa 1890, is from the late Victorian era and was owned by descendants of the last high king of Ireland.

JCK Industry Fund Logo
Events & AwardsMay 18, 2026
Here Are the 2026 JCK Industry Fund Grant Recipients

This is what the nine recipients plan to do with the funds.

John Wayne Signet Ring
AuctionsMay 15, 2026
American Collector Ponies Up Almost $17K for John Wayne’s Ring

The Western star’s 14-karat gold signet ring sold for six times its low estimate following a bidding war at U.K. auction house Elmwood’s.

MJSA Education Foundation and Jewelers of America
Events & AwardsMay 15, 2026
JA, MJSA To Sponsor Roundtable at TJS

The discussion, "Rebuilding the Jewelry Workforce," will take place on Saturday, May 16, in Troy, Michigan.

Three gold rings set with yellow- and brown-hued diamonds
SourcingMay 15, 2026
State of Diamonds: The Way Forward for Natural Diamonds

The jewelry industry is reassessing its positioning as Gen Z reshapes the retail landscape and lab grown continues to gain market share.

Matching pair of Type IIa, D-color diamonds
AuctionsMay 14, 2026
White Diamonds Lead Sotheby’s Auction, Blue Diamond Does Not Sell

A matching pair of 18.38-carat, D-color diamonds from Botswana’s Jwaneng mine sold for $3.3 million, the top lot of the jewelry auction.

DeBeeers_Bridal_Display_Dune_1872x1052.jpg
Supplier BulletinMay 14, 2026
A Diamond Is Forever Continues Desert Diamonds – Bridal Reinvigorated

Sponsored by A Diamond Is Forever

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy