Sourcing

In the KP, familiar battle lines are drawn

SourcingJul 01, 2015

In the KP, familiar battle lines are drawn

The United Arab Emirates seems poised to become the Kimberley Process’s next chair and has struck a surprisingly conciliatory tone, though the NGOs involved in the process say concerns remain.

New York--When the Kimberley Process intersessional meeting ended last week one of the unresolved issues was the future leadership of the organization, an issue that became somewhat clearer this week.

On Tuesday, Alan Martin, research director for Partnership Africa Canada, one of the non-governmental organizations in the KP’s Civil Society Coalition, confirmed reports that after “much confusion” Australia has withdrawn its bid to become the vice chair of the Kimberley Process in 2015.

When asked why the country decided to remove itself from vice chair consideration, Rami Baron, president of the Diamond Dealers Club of Australia,  said based on the feedback he received from those who attended the meeting, it boiled down to the fact that “someone needed to compromise to resolve the impasse and in this case it was Australia.” (Complete consensus is needed to make any decisions within the KP.)

Rebecca Bryant, leader of the Australian delegation to KP, did not respond to request for comment.

Australia’s apparent withdrawal leaves the United Arab Emirates as the sole candidate to become vice chair of the KP for 2015 and, ultimately, lead the process as chair in 2016. (Under the KP bylaws, the vice chair takes over as chair the following year.)

But Martin said “concerns remain” over the UAE’s bid to become chair, adding that “it is not a done deal.”

Member nations of the KP have been divided over which nation will serve as the 2015 vice chair since the end of last year.

Nations including Russia, South Africa, Namibia, Zimbabwe and the Democratic Republic of Congo backed a bid for the UAE to become vice chair while United States, Israel, Canada and Botswana supported Australia. Since a complete consensus is needed to pass anything in the KP, no vice chair was chosen.

At the center of the vice chair controversy are the NGOs of the KP’s Civil Society Coalition, which have been locked in a bitter battle with the UAE for the last two years.

One particularly explosive moment between the UAE and NGOs occurred at the 2013 Angola Centenary Diamond Conference, when Dubai Diamond Exchange Chairman Peter Meeus accused the NGOs involved in the KP of essentially fabricating stories about violence in diamond-producing areas of Zimbabwe and Angola in order to maintain their relevance and funding.

NGO leaders fired back, with Martin saying that Meeus’s speech would be “slanderous if it were not so ludicrous.”

The NGOs also have publicly called into question Dubai’s diamond trade, raising specifically issues of smuggling and transfer pricing, which Martin spoke out about publicly at the KP intersessional in Guangzhou, China just last year. In the speech delivered on behalf of the Civil Society Coalition, Martin pointed out that price manipulations due to transfer pricing generate billions in revenue for companies in the UAE but deprive African treasuries of funds that could be used for public services.

Yet, at the recent intersessional in Angola, the UAE presented a vision statement for its chairmanship that called for big changes in the KP and Meeus told JCK that structural changes to the KP will have to involve “active collaboration” with the NGOs.

In addition, reports indicate that if the UAE wants to become the KP chair the nation must meet a number of conditions, including allowing the KP to conduct a review mission before years’ end, work with civil society on supply chain management system and study the issue of transfer pricing, conditions to which the UAE reportedly has agreed. 

Martin, however, remains skeptical.

He told National Jeweler this week that the NGOs still believe the UAE is not ready to lead the process and will be “staying away.” He has said they will not attend meetings in the UAE but still will participate in the KP.

Michelle Graffis the editor-in-chief at National Jeweler, directing the publication’s coverage both online and in print.

The Latest

Daughters of the Deep indicolite earrings
EditorsNov 06, 2026
The Spectrum Pieces I Can’t Stop Thinking About

From a Betta fish brooch to a “dragon’s trove” of zircon eggs, here are seven pieces that’ve stuck with Associate Editor Lauren McLemore.

Pat Pruitt Dragonfly Earrings
TrendsNov 06, 2026
Pat Pruitt’s DragonFly Earrings Take Flight on Election Night

Groundbreaking New Mexico Governor-elect Deb Haaland wore the earrings, our Piece of the Week, when she declared victory on Tuesday.

Colin Jost in Kay Jewelers holiday ad
MajorsNov 06, 2026
SNL’s Colin Jost Finds the Perfect Gift in Kay Jewelers’ Holiday Ad

Jost goes on an epic journey, traversing rough seas and encountering a cyclops, to discover the perfect holiday gift.

overnight btyb 1026.png
Brought to you by
How Overnight Mountings’ Bridal Builder Makes Custom Engagement Ring Design Easier to Sell

With customization becoming more expected in engagement ring shopping, the Bridal Builder makes the process tangible.

GCAL 8X_NJSB_1.jpg
Supplier BulletinNov 05, 2026
Winning With GCAL 8X®: What’s Working at the Counter

Sponsored by GCAL by Sarine

Weekly QuizNov 05, 2026
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Wrapped holiday gift boxes
SurveysNov 05, 2026
What Retailers Should Know About Holiday Shoppers This Year

From shrinking budgets to AI elves, here are five takeaways from holiday reports by Bain, Adobe, Mastercard, NRF, and insights from YouGov.

Little Pet Portrait Pendants by Russell Jones & Judi Powers
CollectionsNov 05, 2026
Judi Powers, Russell Jones Unleash Joy With New Collaboration

The designers combined their talents for Little Pet Portraits, hand-painted miniatures of our best friends set in a piece of jewelry.

DeBeersICONS_TITLE1_CUSTOMCONTENT_1872x1052 (1).jpg
Brought to you by
A Diamond Is Forever Launches 2026 Holiday Campaign Championing Natural Diamonds

A Diamond Is Forever's holiday campaign reimagines natural diamond icons for a new generation celebrating individuality.

Brilliant Earth Elizabeth Taylor jewelry
FinancialsNov 05, 2026
Brilliant Earth Continued to Resonate With High-Income Shoppers in Q3

Its non-bridal fine jewelry remains the star of the show, recently launching new collections inspired by Elizabeth Taylor and Jane Goodall.

Swarovski Joy: The Swarovski Musical Campaign with Ariana Grande
MajorsNov 05, 2026
Ariana Grande Stars In Swarovski’s Holiday Campaign

“Joy: The Swarovski Musical” features Ariana Grande as the leading lady in scenes inspired by classic musical montages.

GIA logo
GradingNov 05, 2026
GIA to Offer Next-Day Holiday Services

The lab will bring back its complimentary next-day service for some reports starting next week.

Cartier bracelet and ring
CrimeNov 04, 2026
$250K+ in Undeclared Cartier Jewelry Seized at Philadelphia Airport

A Pennsylvania woman failed to declare a ring and a bracelet, discarding the boxes and receipts to conceal the purchases, officials said.

Pandora celestial chandelier earrings
FinancialsNov 04, 2026
Pandora’s Q3 Sales Up 7% Amid Focus on Design

New collections and relevant marketing pushed the company forward, while Pandora’s lab-grown diamond sales continue to lag.

NYC Jewelry Week Biolgems Jewelry Exhibition
Events & AwardsNov 04, 2026
NYC Jewelry Week 2026 Is the Largest Edition Yet

The citywide celebration, slated for Nov. 16-22, is set to host more than 175 events, including live jewelry-making demos.

Lanessa Elrod
MajorsNov 04, 2026
Bergdorf Goodman Names New President

Lanessa Elrod, former president and CEO of Louis Vuitton Americas, has stepped into the role as the retailer celebrates 125 years.

Replica of Infinity Gauntlet
AuctionsNov 03, 2026
Infinity Gauntlet Set With 170+ Carats of Colored Gemstones Up for Auction

A replica of one of the most powerful objects in the Marvel Cinematic Universe, the glove is heading to auction next month in Abu Dhabi.

Arthur Klein
IndependentsNov 03, 2026
Longtime Jewelry Marketer Arthur Klein Dies at 89

Klein, who had his own marketing agency and worked for Gabriel & Co. and Trans American Diamond, is remembered as a kind man.

Zadok Jewelers
IndependentsNov 03, 2026
Zadok Jewelers Toasts To 50 Years With Diamond Bracelet Giveaway

To enter the giveaway, locals can purchase a featured beverage from one of eight participating restaurants in Houston and Austin, Texas.

David Yurman Gem Awards Grant 2027 Graphic
Events & AwardsNov 03, 2026
David Yurman Gem Awards Grant Opens 2027 Applications

The grant recipient will be awarded $50,000 as well as mentoring meetings with executives at David Yurman and other industry executives.

Kirstin Viland, Joanna Kovacs, Shari Lukacs
Events & AwardsNov 03, 2026
NAJA, Instappraise Name 2026 Scholarship Winners

The winners include a non-NAJA member seeking training, a member beginning NAJA courses, and a member becoming a Certified Master Appraiser.

Sothebys Romanov sapphire
AuctionsNov 02, 2026
197-Carat ‘Romanov Sapphire’ Heads to Sotheby’s Geneva

The rare jewel, which has links to Russia’s Romanov dynasty, is estimated to fetch up to $2 million.

Fake Audemars Piguet watch
CrimeNov 02, 2026
Customs Seizes More Than 400 Fake Audemars Piguet Watches

It is one of several seizures of counterfeit jewelry and watches by U.S. Customs and Border Protection officials in Louisville this year.

Jewelers of America new board members
MajorsNov 02, 2026
Lawrence Bock, Caryl Capeci, Amanda Coleman-Phelps Join JA Board

Jewelers of America announced the additions to its board of directors following its annual general meeting, held last week.

Kristi Yamaguchi Wearing Always Dream Collection
CollectionsNov 02, 2026
Olympian Kristi Yamaguchi, Heller Jewelers Expand ‘Always Dream’ Collection

The jewelry collection supports Yamaguchi’s Always Dream foundation, which provides reading and educational resources to families in need.

2026 AGTA Spectrum & Cutting Edge Awards Best Of Winners
Events & AwardsOct 30, 2026
Illuminating Carved Paraiba Pendant, Suite of Moonstones Wow at Spectrum Awards

Spectrum’s “Best of Show” honors went to a 101-carat Paraiba carved to look like Medusa that has a magnet-activated LED light.

Edina Kiss Eye Pendants on Charm Necklace
TrendsOct 30, 2026
Edina Kiss’ Pendants Say ‘Eye’m Watching You’

Our Halloween Pieces of the Week are four “Eye” pendants, each set with colorful gemstones.

Alexis Hoopes
MajorsOct 30, 2026
The RealReal Hires Former eBay Exec as New Chief Merchandising Officer

Alexis Hoopes expanded eBay’s “Authenticity Guarantee” program during her tenure.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy