Sourcing

In the KP, familiar battle lines are drawn

SourcingJul 01, 2015

In the KP, familiar battle lines are drawn

The United Arab Emirates seems poised to become the Kimberley Process’s next chair and has struck a surprisingly conciliatory tone, though the NGOs involved in the process say concerns remain.

New York--When the Kimberley Process intersessional meeting ended last week one of the unresolved issues was the future leadership of the organization, an issue that became somewhat clearer this week.

On Tuesday, Alan Martin, research director for Partnership Africa Canada, one of the non-governmental organizations in the KP’s Civil Society Coalition, confirmed reports that after “much confusion” Australia has withdrawn its bid to become the vice chair of the Kimberley Process in 2015.

When asked why the country decided to remove itself from vice chair consideration, Rami Baron, president of the Diamond Dealers Club of Australia,  said based on the feedback he received from those who attended the meeting, it boiled down to the fact that “someone needed to compromise to resolve the impasse and in this case it was Australia.” (Complete consensus is needed to make any decisions within the KP.)

Rebecca Bryant, leader of the Australian delegation to KP, did not respond to request for comment.

Australia’s apparent withdrawal leaves the United Arab Emirates as the sole candidate to become vice chair of the KP for 2015 and, ultimately, lead the process as chair in 2016. (Under the KP bylaws, the vice chair takes over as chair the following year.)

But Martin said “concerns remain” over the UAE’s bid to become chair, adding that “it is not a done deal.”

Member nations of the KP have been divided over which nation will serve as the 2015 vice chair since the end of last year.

Nations including Russia, South Africa, Namibia, Zimbabwe and the Democratic Republic of Congo backed a bid for the UAE to become vice chair while United States, Israel, Canada and Botswana supported Australia. Since a complete consensus is needed to pass anything in the KP, no vice chair was chosen.

At the center of the vice chair controversy are the NGOs of the KP’s Civil Society Coalition, which have been locked in a bitter battle with the UAE for the last two years.

One particularly explosive moment between the UAE and NGOs occurred at the 2013 Angola Centenary Diamond Conference, when Dubai Diamond Exchange Chairman Peter Meeus accused the NGOs involved in the KP of essentially fabricating stories about violence in diamond-producing areas of Zimbabwe and Angola in order to maintain their relevance and funding.

NGO leaders fired back, with Martin saying that Meeus’s speech would be “slanderous if it were not so ludicrous.”

The NGOs also have publicly called into question Dubai’s diamond trade, raising specifically issues of smuggling and transfer pricing, which Martin spoke out about publicly at the KP intersessional in Guangzhou, China just last year. In the speech delivered on behalf of the Civil Society Coalition, Martin pointed out that price manipulations due to transfer pricing generate billions in revenue for companies in the UAE but deprive African treasuries of funds that could be used for public services.

Yet, at the recent intersessional in Angola, the UAE presented a vision statement for its chairmanship that called for big changes in the KP and Meeus told JCK that structural changes to the KP will have to involve “active collaboration” with the NGOs.

In addition, reports indicate that if the UAE wants to become the KP chair the nation must meet a number of conditions, including allowing the KP to conduct a review mission before years’ end, work with civil society on supply chain management system and study the issue of transfer pricing, conditions to which the UAE reportedly has agreed. 

Martin, however, remains skeptical.

He told National Jeweler this week that the NGOs still believe the UAE is not ready to lead the process and will be “staying away.” He has said they will not attend meetings in the UAE but still will participate in the KP.

Michelle Graffis the editor-in-chief at National Jeweler, directing the publication’s coverage both online and in print.

The Latest

Pope Francis
Policies & IssuesMay 14, 2025
Here’s What Happened to Pope Francis’ Ring

Before Pope Leo XIV was elected, a centuries-old procedure regarding the late pontiff’s ring was followed.

1998 Cosmograph Daytona, Ref.16516 Rolex
AuctionsMay 14, 2025
Custom Rolex Pulled From Sotheby’s Sale

The one-of-a-kind platinum Rolex Cosmograph Daytona was estimated to fetch up to $1.7 million.

Jeweler Constance Polamalu at Bloomstone, a store that specializes in lab-grown diamonds
Lab-GrownMay 14, 2025
State of Diamonds: What’s Next for Lab-Grown Diamonds?

While the product has entrenched itself in the market, retailers and consultants are assessing the next phase of the category’s development.

antique_Vegas_2024_by_headshot_stories_9454.jpg
Brought to you by
Las Vegas Antique Jewelry & Watch Show: Showcasing the Most Collectible Merchandise from Across the Globe

Gain access to the most exclusive and coveted antique pieces from trusted dealers during Las Vegas Jewelry Week.

Surveillance footage Tiffany & Co. Seattle robbery
CrimeMay 14, 2025
Seattle Detectives Seek Public’s Help in Tiffany & Co. Robberies

The police are trying to identify the man suspected of robbing two Tiffany & Co. locations in the area.

Weekly QuizMay 08, 2025
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Jeff Corey, new chairperson of the board for the Jewelers Board of Trade
MajorsMay 14, 2025
Jeff Corey Elected Chair of JBT Board

The well-known Maine jeweler takes over for Brian Fleming and will serve a one-year term.

Foundrae Ingot Pendant
Policies & IssuesMay 14, 2025
Foundrae Donates $11K to Ethical Metalsmiths

The donation was the result of the brand’s annual Earth Day Ingot event.

Supplier Spotlight -Recorded-Webinar.png
Brought to you by
Watch: The Winston Red: GIA Examines the Smithsonian’s Newest Addition

Supplier Spotlight Sponsored by GIA

Eiseman Jewels ribbon cutting ceremony
IndependentsMay 13, 2025
Eiseman Jewels’ Renovated Dallas Store Is Bigger and Better

Located in NorthPark Center, the revamped store is nearly 2,000 square feet larger and includes the first Tudor boutique in Dallas.

Diamond Council of America
MajorsMay 13, 2025
DCA Announces New Learning Platform, Course Updates

The nonprofit has made updates to the content in its beginner and advanced jewelry sales courses.

Malyia McNaughton and Elyssa Jenkins-Pérez
MajorsMay 13, 2025
BIJC Launches New Education Fund

BIJC President Malyia McNaughton will shift roles to lead the new foundation, and Elyssa Jenkins-Pérez will succeed her as president.

Harwell Godfrey Snake Giza Ring, Foundrae Mind, Body Soul Story Necklace, Tiffany & Co. Tiffany Titan By Pharrell Williams Bracelet
TrendsMay 13, 2025
State of Jewelry Design: The Top 10 Jewelry Trends of the Past Decade

As a nod to the theme of JCK Las Vegas 2025, “Decades,” National Jeweler took a look back at the top 10 jewelry trends of the past 10 years.

Lightbox’s Reminiscence Poet earrings in 14-karat white gold with lab-grown diamonds
Lab-GrownMay 12, 2025
Lightbox to Go Dark by Summer, De Beers Says

The company plans to halt all consumer-facing activity this summer, while Lightbox factory operations will cease by the end of the year.

Stock image of shipping containers
Policies & IssuesMay 12, 2025
Tariffs on Chinese Imports Temporarily Slashed as U.S.-China Reach Deal

Following weekend negotiations, the tax on Chinese goods imported into the United States will drop by 115 percent for the next 90 days.

Artists’ Jewelry: From Cubism to Pop, the Diane Venet Collection
Events & AwardsMay 12, 2025
Jewelry By Picasso, Dalí on Display at Florida Art Museum

“Artists’ Jewelry: From Cubism to Pop, the Diane Venet Collection” is on view at the Norton Museum of Art through October.

2025 CASE Award Submission Graphic
Events & AwardsMay 12, 2025
CASE Awards Now Accepting Entries For 2025

The deadline to submit is June 16.

Lugano Diamonds store in Greenwich, Connecticut
IndependentsMay 09, 2025
Lugano Diamonds CEO Resigns Amid Internal Investigation

Moti Ferder stepped down Wednesday and will not receive any severance pay, parent company Compass Diversified said.

Coeur Percé Scapular Necklace and Love Baby Locket
CollectionsMay 09, 2025
Pieces of the Week: Marie Lichtenberg’s Collaborations for Mother’s Day

Lichtenberg partnered with luxury platform Mytheresa on two designs honoring the connection between mothers and daughters.

Stock image of a man’s hands in handcuffs
CrimeMay 08, 2025
Former NYC Jewelry Store Employee Arrested in 2017 Choking Death of Boss

Michel Desalles allegedly murdered Omid Gholian inside World of Gold N Diamond using zip ties and then fled the country.

2025 Met Gala jewelry
EditorsMay 08, 2025
5 ‘Superfine’ Met Gala Jewelry Moments

Associate Editor Lauren McLemore shares her favorite looks from a night of style inspired by Black dandyism.

instappraise-1.png
Supplier BulletinMay 08, 2025
Instappraise Introduces Game-Changing Trifold Appraisal Format

Sponsored by Instappraise

Brilliant Earth three stone Sabine diamond engagement ring
FinancialsMay 08, 2025
Brilliant Earth Notes an Uptick in Engagement Ring Sales in Q1

CEO Beth Gerstein discussed the company’s bridal bestsellers, the potential impact of tariffs, and the rising price of gold.

Exterior of Margot McKinney Beverly Hills Location
IndependentsMay 08, 2025
Margot McKinney Lands in the U.S. With New Boutique

The brand’s first independent location outside of Australia has opened in Beverly Hills, California.

Cathy Marsh
IndependentsMay 08, 2025
Verragio Announces New Regional Sales Manager

Cathy Marsh will lead the jewelry company’s efforts in the upper Midwest and western United States.

Pandora gold and silver charm bracelet
FinancialsMay 07, 2025
Pandora Posts Strong Q1, Plans for Tariffs

The company has multiple strategies for dealing with tariffs, though its CEO said moving manufacturing to the U.S. is not one of them.

Headshot of Smart Age Solutions CEO Emmanuel Raheb
ColumnistsMay 07, 2025
The Smart Lab: Building a Seasonal Marketing Strategy for Mother’s Day and Beyond

Connecting with your customers throughout the year is key to a successful holiday marketing push.

Logo for “In the Loupe,” Punchmark’s podcast
TechnologyMay 07, 2025
Punchmark’s Latest Podcast Features a Very Special Guest

National Jeweler Editor-in-Chief Michelle Graff joined Michael Burpoe to talk tariffs, consumer confidence, and the sky-high price of gold.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy