Our Pieces of the Week honor the 2026 nominees for the Gem Award for Jewelry Design, Silvia Furmanovich, Cece Fein-Hughes, and Catherine Sarr.
On Data: A Closer Look at Loose Diamonds
Sherry Smith looks at sales and gross margins on loose diamonds in her latest deep-dive into industry data.

In this month’s column, we’re going to examine the performance of independent jewelers in the 12-month rolling period ended Jan. 30, and then dive into their performance in a category that’s become more challenging in recent years—loose diamonds.
Overall, jewelers showed an increase of 4.8 percent in gross sales year-over-year. This follows a strong January 2019, which had an 11 percent increase in gross sales.
Gross profit dollars were also up, climbing 4.8 percent.
The number of units sold slipped 5 percent, while gross margin held steady at 46.1 percent and the average retail sale grew 10 percent, from $304 to $335.
Meanwhile, loose diamonds showed a 2.1 percent increase in gross sales, a 2 percent increase in gross profit dollars and a 4.9 percent increase in average retail sale in the 12-month rolling period.
Of the $2 billion in total aggregated sales data from the independent channel collected by The Edge Retail Academy, the loose diamond category represents 13 percent of total revenues and 10 percent of total annual gross profit dollars.
This makes loose diamonds the single most important category for independents.
I’ve saved the best on loose diamonds for last—the gross margin. This is such a hot topic and, no doubt, I am opening Pandora’s box by mentioning it.
I must admit, it is very interesting to see retailers’ and vendors’ reactions to the actual gross margin being achieved.
Vendors tend to be surprised by how low the actual gross margin is, while retailers are surprised that retailers are getting that high of a margin. It’s all about perspective.
Let’s break down loose diamond gross margin by region: Midwest – 38.8 percent; Northeast – 32.7 percent; South – 37 percent; Southeast – 35.9 percent; and the West – 38 percent.
It’s not surprising to see the Midwest with the highest gross margin, given that the region tends to be more rural, just as it’s not a shock to see the Northeast, where it’s more densely populated and there is more competition, with the lowest.
Nonetheless, there are lots of contributing factors to the gross margin of loose diamonds: attempting to match online pricing, selling loose as a commodity, removing the emotional part of the purchase, the entry of lab-grown diamonds into the market in larger quantities, etc.
After all, the purchase of a loose diamonds is, in most cases, made to mark a momentous occasion in customers’ lives that should be celebrated.
The Latest

The 24-piece watch collection is set to debut in spring 2027.

Pooler, who has more than 25 years’ experience in jewelry, is now chief operating officer of Modani Jewels, Soham Diamonds, and SNJ Creations.

Every jeweler faces the same challenge: helping customers protect what they love. Here’s the solution designed for today’s jewelry business.

The reopening of the Waldorf Astoria means a homecoming for the industry group’s annual event, which will take place Saturday.


McCormack looked to the 19th century’s “golden age” of astronomy when designing her new celestial-themed collection.

Nelson will be honored as the inaugural grant winner at the Gem Awards gala on Friday.

With refreshed branding, a new website, updated courses, and a pathway for growth, DCA is dedicated to supporting retail staff development.

The new smart design software allows jewelers to configure, price, and confirm a custom engagement ring in real time for in-store customers.

The 10,000-square-foot diamond manufacturing facility officially opened in late February and employs 50 people.

The MJSA Education Foundation’s scholarships support students pursuing jewelry careers.

The largest white diamond to come to market in the U.K. in more than a decade, the VVS1, I-color stone is expected to top $1 million.

Skelly shares her plans for reimagining the fine jewelry retailer she re-acquired after it faltered last year.

The collection takes inspiration from the emotional space between people, moments, and experiences.

In 2026, the jewelry retailer is celebrating a milestone only a small percentage of family-owned businesses survive to see.

The group of jewelers held a jewelry raffle in support of the Children’s Hospital of Richmond at VCU.

The jewelry giant released preliminary results for the fourth quarter and full year on Monday, with final results slated to come next week.

The retailer also gave an update on its vendor partnerships.

The award-winning actress is the “epitome of modern allure,” the brand said.

The “Bloom” collection draws from the flower power movement of the 1960s and ‘70s with inlay pendants offered in eight colorways.

The unique piece was one of the custom works offered at the foundation's recent silent art auction, which garnered nearly $15,000 in total.

Bulgari named Gyllenhaal as its brand ambassador for his embodiment of artistic depth, intellectual curiosity, and warmth.

Awards were given to four students, one apprentice, and an emerging jeweler.

The top jewelry lot of the late model’s estate sale, hosted by John Moran Auctioneers, was an Oscar Heyman & Brothers for Cartier necklace.

Moses, who started at GIA’s Santa Monica lab in 1976, will leave the Gemological Institute of America in May.

Increased competition, falling lab-grown diamond and moissanite prices, and the rising cost of gold took a toll on the moissanite maker.

The earrings, our Piece of the Week, feature pink tourmalines as planets orbiting around an aquamarine center set in 18-karat rose gold.























