CollectionsMay 15, 2025
Jessica McCormack’s ‘Fruit Salad’ Collection Is Fresh for SummerCollectionsJun 03, 2025
In Her Latest Collection, Viviana Langhoff Is Leaning Into Gold
The designer is embracing bold pieces with weight to them in “AU79,” a collection she celebrated with a creative launch party.
The eight 14-karat gold rings in “AU79,” a new capsule collection from designer Viviana Langhoff. The collection, which celebrates the significance and history of gold, is slated to have 20 pieces. (Photo courtesy of Viviana Langhoff)
Chicago—Earlier this spring, Viviana Langhoff introduced “AU79,” a capsule collection of chunky gold pieces that takes its name from the symbol (AU) and atomic number for gold.
The collection is a departure for the Chicago-based designer and owner of jewelry store Adornment + Theory in two ways.
First, the design is bolder—or, as she puts it on her website, more “substantial and grounded”—than Langhoff’s usual work, which often employs filigree and negative space for a light, delicate look.
Second, “AU79” goes all in on gold at a time when the high price of the metal has some designers pulling back.
“I’ve spoken to a lot of my contemporaries [and] some designers are hollowing things out, doing 9-carat, 10-karat [gold], using more gemstones and less gold, diving into two-tone,” Langhoff said in an interview with National Jeweler.
She’s not going that route with “AU79,” because it’s not what her clients want.
Related stories will be right here …
The collection is a departure for the Chicago-based designer and owner of jewelry store Adornment + Theory in two ways.
First, the design is bolder—or, as she puts it on her website, more “substantial and grounded”—than Langhoff’s usual work, which often employs filigree and negative space for a light, delicate look.
Second, “AU79” goes all in on gold at a time when the high price of the metal has some designers pulling back.
“I’ve spoken to a lot of my contemporaries [and] some designers are hollowing things out, doing 9-carat, 10-karat [gold], using more gemstones and less gold, diving into two-tone,” Langhoff said in an interview with National Jeweler.
She’s not going that route with “AU79,” because it’s not what her clients want.
Langhoff said she continually has customers asking for thicker, chunkier pieces in gold—a trend in engagement rings this year—set with lab-grown diamonds.
She said there is a lot of chatter on social media about the long-term investment value of gold, which is currently approaching $3,400/ounce.
Adornment + Theory clients, who are mainly millennial and Gen-Z consumers, see these conversations but a lot of them can’t afford a chunky gold band and a natural diamond, so they opt for a lab-grown stone instead, viewing gold as the better investment in the long run.
“They all would rather have real solid gold and lab diamonds,” Langhoff said, though she added that customers can opt to have a natural diamond if they want one.
The “Element 3” ring in the “AU79” collection is 14-karat gold and is seen here with a 1.59-carat lab-grown diamond ($6,100). The metal color and center stone in each “AU79” collection ring are customizable.
The 14-karat gold “Element 1” ring is seen here with a 1.55-carat lab-grown diamond ($4,850). The designer, Viviana Langhoff, makes her jewelry in Chicago, and recently started manufacturing in New York as well.
The “Element 6” ring retails for $5,300.
“AU79” officially was introduced May 2 at a party held at Adornment & Theory, which is located in Chicago’s Logan Square neighborhood, an area known for its arts scene, music venues, and locally owned shops.
Langhoff said while the collection is designed to be 20 pieces in total, she started with rings, making eight different designs priced between about $2,000-$6,000.
On the Adornment + Theory website, the designer explains that the collection is “a testament to gold’s eternal allure—an exploration of its form, function, and meaning.”
“Gold is a story told in metal—a symbol of permanence, transformation, and power. In my latest collection, AU79, I explore the elemental essence of gold itself, embracing its weight, richness, and history,” Langhoff writes, adding that the rings are “meant to be felt as much as they are seen.”
Initially, she made just one of each ring, advertising them for pre-order via social media.
She said every piece sold the weekend they were launched, with initial feedback from customers praising the rings’ design and the engraving.
To coincide with the launch of “AU79,” Langhoff put together a small exhibition on the history and uses of gold. The exhibition will remain up at her store, Adornment + Theory, through the summer.
For the “AU79” launch event, Langhoff had a calligrapher who did live engraving on little jewelry trays.
She also organized what she described as a mini exhibition on gold that walks people through the metal’s history in civilization, as well what goes into the mining and extraction of gold and the tools that are used for processing it into fine jewelry.
The exhibition will be up through the summer at Adornment +Theory.
“People really loved it,” Langhoff said. “Everybody got it.”
More on Collections
The Latest
ColumnistsSep 23, 2025
Quiet Luxury: What Fall’s Top Trend Means for JewelersEmmanuel Raheb shares tips on how a jeweler’s showcases, marketing, and social media presence can whisper, instead of shout.
MajorsSep 23, 2025
Ames Watson Completes $140M Acquisition of Claire’sThe private equity firm has a plan to revive the mall staple.
SourcingSep 23, 2025
Super Smalls’ New Book Introduces Kids to Gems, Fine JewelryThe “Super Book of Gems” dives into the Mohs Hardness Scale, the Four C’s, and designs from jewelers like Cartier and Bulgari.
Brought to you by
reDollar.com Is Rolling Out the Next Level Jewelry, Diamond & Watch Consignment ProgramWith their unmatched services and low fees, reDollar.com is challenging some big names in the online consignment world.
MajorsSep 23, 2025
Mattioli Names Kering Exec as New CEOClaudio Pasta will take the lead at the Italian fine jewelry brand, succeeding company founder Licia Mattioli.
Weekly QuizSep 19, 2025
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
SourcingSep 22, 2025
Rio Tinto Announces Final ‘Beyond Rare’ TenderThe miner is honoring the end of an era with an offering of 52 lots from the now-closed Argyle and the soon-to-close Diavik mines.
MajorsSep 22, 2025
Jewelry Manufacturer Vibhor Acquires AlorThe California-based fine jewelry brand will retain its identity post-acquisition, with new collections launching next year.
Brought to you by
Rallying Call for the Jewelry Industry on Tariffs and Other Key IssuesJewelers of America is leading the charge to protect the industry amidst rising economic threats.
Policies & IssuesSep 22, 2025
Ethical Metalsmiths Has a New Name Founded in 2004, the organization is now called the Community for Ethical Jewelry.
EditorsSep 19, 2025
These Female Athletes Had the Best Jewelry of the SummerFrom Coco Gauff’s hoops to Madison Keys’ diamond medallion, these are Senior Editor Lenore Fedow’s standout jewelry looks of the season.
CollectionsSep 19, 2025
Piece of the Week: Vanessa Fernández Studio’s ‘Curva’ Wrap HoopsThe trendy earrings feature asymmetrical drops, one with a grossular garnet and the other with a diamond.
Recorded WebinarsSep 19, 2025
Watch: A Step-by-Step Guide to Using TikTok and Instagram ReelsFour social media marketing experts discuss their go-to methods and favorite tools for making high-quality short-form video content.
Supplier BulletinSep 18, 2025
Will Your Design Define 2026? Enter The Spectrum & Cutting Edge AwardsSponsored by American Gem Trade Association
SurveysSep 18, 2025
Deloitte Thinks the Holidays Will Be Merry, PwC Isn’t So Sure In its holiday report, PwC said the season will be more like jazz—improvisational and less predictable—than an easy-to-follow melody.
MajorsSep 18, 2025
Pandora to Open New Distribution Center in MarylandThe jewelry giant will relocate its existing facility to a larger space in Anne Arundel.
CollectionsSep 18, 2025
Ashley Zhang Launches Garçon New YorkThe designer, who is the creative force behind her namesake brand, has now started a new mini line focusing on chains for fathers and sons.
SourcingSep 18, 2025
SSEF Opens Applications for 2 Gemology Education Scholarships The awards include tuition for a course at the Swiss lab, economy flights, and hotel accommodation.
TechnologySep 18, 2025
Hill & Co. Launches AI Strategy ProgramThe 21-day program was designed to help jewelry retailers identify opportunities and eliminate inefficiencies with AI.
AuctionsSep 17, 2025
Mythical Set of Patek Philippe Pocket Watches Expected to Sell for $10M+A set of four Patek Philippe “Star Caliber 2000” pocket watches is part of Sotheby’s upcoming auction in Abu Dhabi.
TrendsSep 17, 2025
Silvia Furmanovich’s Book Tells the ‘Journey of a Jeweler’The Brazilian jeweler’s latest book marks her namesake brand’s 25th anniversary and tells the tale of her worldwide collaborations.
WatchesSep 17, 2025
Bob’s Watches Acquires Vintage Rolex Won on ‘The Price is Right’ The Submariner Ref. 1680 with a Tiffany & Co. dial came from the original owner, who won it as a prize on the game show in the 1970s.
TechnologySep 17, 2025
Jewelers Mutual Launches Shipping Solution App for Shopify The new integration allows users to manage shipments directly from the Shopify dashboard.
EditorsSep 16, 2025
Out & About: 7 Great Quotes From Converge in CarlsbadAt Converge 2025, Editor-in-Chief Michelle Graff attended sessions on DEI, tariffs, security, and more. Here are her top takeaways.
CrimeSep 16, 2025
2 Robbery Suspects Killed in California Pawn Shop ShootoutSix people were shot last week at an Oakland cash-for-gold shop as employees exchanged gunfire with individuals trying to rob the store.
CollectionsSep 16, 2025
Chopard Adds New Designs to Its ‘Ice Cube’ Capsule CollectionThe jeweler has expanded its high jewelry offering, which launched last year, with new pieces featuring its cube motif that debuted in 1999.
SourcingSep 16, 2025
Natural Diamond Council Launches Retailer Accreditation ProgramBen Bridge Jeweler and Lux Bond & Green were a part of the pilot program.
EditorsSep 15, 2025
Skipping the Necklace, Embracing Snakes: The Best Jewelry From the 2025 Emmy AwardsAssociate Editor Natalie Francisco shares eight of her favorite jewelry looks from the 77th annual Primetime Emmy Awards, held Sunday night.
