In Her Latest Collection, Viviana Langhoff Is Leaning Into Gold
The designer is embracing bold pieces with weight to them in “AU79,” a collection she celebrated with a creative launch party.

The collection is a departure for the Chicago-based designer and owner of jewelry store Adornment + Theory in two ways.
First, the design is bolder—or, as she puts it on her website, more “substantial and grounded”—than Langhoff’s usual work, which often employs filigree and negative space for a light, delicate look.
Second, “AU79” goes all in on gold at a time when the high price of the metal has some designers pulling back.
“I’ve spoken to a lot of my contemporaries [and] some designers are hollowing things out, doing 9-carat, 10-karat [gold], using more gemstones and less gold, diving into two-tone,” Langhoff said in an interview with National Jeweler.
She’s not going that route with “AU79,” because it’s not what her clients want.
Langhoff said she continually has customers asking for thicker, chunkier pieces in gold—a trend in engagement rings this year—set with lab-grown diamonds.
She said there is a lot of chatter on social media about the long-term investment value of gold, which is currently approaching $3,400/ounce.
Adornment + Theory clients, who are mainly millennial and Gen-Z consumers, see these conversations but a lot of them can’t afford a chunky gold band and a natural diamond, so they opt for a lab-grown stone instead, viewing gold as the better investment in the long run.
“They all would rather have real solid gold and lab diamonds,” Langhoff said, though she added that customers can opt to have a natural diamond if they want one.
“AU79” officially was introduced May 2 at a party held at Adornment & Theory, which is located in Chicago’s Logan Square neighborhood, an area known for its arts scene, music venues, and locally owned shops.
Langhoff said while the collection is designed to be 20 pieces in total, she started with rings, making eight different designs priced between about $2,000-$6,000.
On the Adornment + Theory website, the designer explains that the collection is “a testament to gold’s eternal allure—an exploration of its form, function, and meaning.”
“Gold is a story told in metal—a symbol of permanence, transformation, and power. In my latest collection, AU79, I explore the elemental essence of gold itself, embracing its weight, richness, and history,” Langhoff writes, adding that the rings are “meant to be felt as much as they are seen.”
Initially, she made just one of each ring, advertising them for pre-order via social media.
She said every piece sold the weekend they were launched, with initial feedback from customers praising the rings’ design and the engraving.

For the “AU79” launch event, Langhoff had a calligrapher who did live engraving on little jewelry trays.
She also organized what she described as a mini exhibition on gold that walks people through the metal’s history in civilization, as well what goes into the mining and extraction of gold and the tools that are used for processing it into fine jewelry.
The exhibition will be up through the summer at Adornment +Theory.
“People really loved it,” Langhoff said. “Everybody got it.”
The Latest

The Vault’s Katherine Jetter is accusing the retailer of using info she shared for a potential partnership to move into Nantucket.

Agents seized 2,193 pieces, a mix of counterfeit Cartier “Love” and “Juste Un Clou” bracelets, and Van Cleef & Arpels’ “Alhambra” design.

The trade association has chosen the recipients of the funding initiative it formed to foster the growth and sustainability of the industry.

The Seymour & Evelyn Holtzman Bench Scholarship from Jewelers of America returns for a second year.

The organization has also announced this year’s slate of judges.


Associate Editor Natalie Francisco shares 20 additional pieces that stood out to her at the Couture show.

Lori Tucker started at Williams Jewelers when she was 18 years old.

The countdown is on for the JCK Las Vegas Show and JA is pulling out all the stops.

The “Marvel | Citizen Zenshin” watch is crafted in Super Titanium and has subtle nods to all four “Fantastic Four” superheroes on the dial.

The “XO Tacori” collection was designed to blend luxury and accessible pricing.

Pritesh Patel, the lab’s chief operating officer, will take over as president and CEO of GIA.

National Jeweler and Jewelers of America discuss the standout jewelry trends and biggest news to emerge from the shows this year.

Signatories to the “Luanda Accord” committed to allocating 1 percent of annual diamond revenue to the Natural Diamond Council.

The winning designs captured the “Radiance” theme.

Nominations in the categories of Jewelry Design, Media Excellence, and Retail Innovation will be accepted through July 30.

The singer’s ring ticks off many bridal trends, with a thick band, half-bezel setting, and solitaire diamond.

The bracelet references vintage high jewelry and snake symbolism as a playful piece where a python’s head becomes a working belt buckle.

The heist happened in Lebec, California, in 2022 when a Brinks truck was transporting goods from one show in California to another.

The 10-carat fancy purple-pink diamond with potential links to Marie Antoinette headlined the white-glove jewelry auction this week.

The Starboard Cruises SVP discusses who is shopping for jewelry on ships, how much they’re spending, and why brands should get on board.

The historic signet ring exceeded its estimate at Noonans Mayfair’s jewelry auction this week.

The gemstone is the third most valuable ruby to come out of the Montepuez mine, Gemfields said.

Founder and longtime CEO Ben Smithee will stay with the agency, transitioning into the role of founding partner and strategic advisor.

Associate Editor Natalie Francisco shares 20 of her favorite pieces from the jewelry collections that debuted at Couture.

If you want to attract good salespeople and generate a stream of “sleeping money” for your jewelry store, then you are going to have to pay.

The top lot was a colorless Graff diamond, followed by a Burmese ruby necklace by Marcus & Co.

Gizzi, who has been in the industry since 2001, is now Jewelers of America’s senior vice president of corporate affairs.