CollectionsMay 15, 2025
Jessica McCormack’s ‘Fruit Salad’ Collection Is Fresh for SummerCollectionsJun 03, 2025
In Her Latest Collection, Viviana Langhoff Is Leaning Into Gold
The designer is embracing bold pieces with weight to them in “AU79,” a collection she celebrated with a creative launch party.
The eight 14-karat gold rings in “AU79,” a new capsule collection from designer Viviana Langhoff. The collection, which celebrates the significance and history of gold, is slated to have 20 pieces. (Photo courtesy of Viviana Langhoff)
Chicago—Earlier this spring, Viviana Langhoff introduced “AU79,” a capsule collection of chunky gold pieces that takes its name from the symbol (AU) and atomic number for gold.
The collection is a departure for the Chicago-based designer and owner of jewelry store Adornment + Theory in two ways.
First, the design is bolder—or, as she puts it on her website, more “substantial and grounded”—than Langhoff’s usual work, which often employs filigree and negative space for a light, delicate look.
Second, “AU79” goes all in on gold at a time when the high price of the metal has some designers pulling back.
“I’ve spoken to a lot of my contemporaries [and] some designers are hollowing things out, doing 9-carat, 10-karat [gold], using more gemstones and less gold, diving into two-tone,” Langhoff said in an interview with National Jeweler.
She’s not going that route with “AU79,” because it’s not what her clients want.
Related stories will be right here …
The collection is a departure for the Chicago-based designer and owner of jewelry store Adornment + Theory in two ways.
First, the design is bolder—or, as she puts it on her website, more “substantial and grounded”—than Langhoff’s usual work, which often employs filigree and negative space for a light, delicate look.
Second, “AU79” goes all in on gold at a time when the high price of the metal has some designers pulling back.
“I’ve spoken to a lot of my contemporaries [and] some designers are hollowing things out, doing 9-carat, 10-karat [gold], using more gemstones and less gold, diving into two-tone,” Langhoff said in an interview with National Jeweler.
She’s not going that route with “AU79,” because it’s not what her clients want.
Langhoff said she continually has customers asking for thicker, chunkier pieces in gold—a trend in engagement rings this year—set with lab-grown diamonds.
She said there is a lot of chatter on social media about the long-term investment value of gold, which is currently approaching $3,400/ounce.
Adornment + Theory clients, who are mainly millennial and Gen-Z consumers, see these conversations but a lot of them can’t afford a chunky gold band and a natural diamond, so they opt for a lab-grown stone instead, viewing gold as the better investment in the long run.
“They all would rather have real solid gold and lab diamonds,” Langhoff said, though she added that customers can opt to have a natural diamond if they want one.
The “Element 3” ring in the “AU79” collection is 14-karat gold and is seen here with a 1.59-carat lab-grown diamond ($6,100). The metal color and center stone in each “AU79” collection ring are customizable.
The 14-karat gold “Element 1” ring is seen here with a 1.55-carat lab-grown diamond ($4,850). The designer, Viviana Langhoff, makes her jewelry in Chicago, and recently started manufacturing in New York as well.
The “Element 6” ring retails for $5,300.
“AU79” officially was introduced May 2 at a party held at Adornment & Theory, which is located in Chicago’s Logan Square neighborhood, an area known for its arts scene, music venues, and locally owned shops.
Langhoff said while the collection is designed to be 20 pieces in total, she started with rings, making eight different designs priced between about $2,000-$6,000.
On the Adornment + Theory website, the designer explains that the collection is “a testament to gold’s eternal allure—an exploration of its form, function, and meaning.”
“Gold is a story told in metal—a symbol of permanence, transformation, and power. In my latest collection, AU79, I explore the elemental essence of gold itself, embracing its weight, richness, and history,” Langhoff writes, adding that the rings are “meant to be felt as much as they are seen.”
Initially, she made just one of each ring, advertising them for pre-order via social media.
She said every piece sold the weekend they were launched, with initial feedback from customers praising the rings’ design and the engraving.
To coincide with the launch of “AU79,” Langhoff put together a small exhibition on the history and uses of gold. The exhibition will remain up at her store, Adornment + Theory, through the summer.
For the “AU79” launch event, Langhoff had a calligrapher who did live engraving on little jewelry trays.
She also organized what she described as a mini exhibition on gold that walks people through the metal’s history in civilization, as well what goes into the mining and extraction of gold and the tools that are used for processing it into fine jewelry.
The exhibition will be up through the summer at Adornment +Theory.
“People really loved it,” Langhoff said. “Everybody got it.”
More on Collections
The Latest
Recorded WebinarsNov 24, 2025
Watch: Top Tips for Social Media EtiquetteSocial media experts spoke about protecting brand reputation through behaving mindfully online.
WatchesNov 24, 2025
Breitling Reveals Plans for Gallet, Universal GenèveIn 2026, the three will come together as “House of Brands,” with Gallet sold in Breitling stores and Universal Genève sold separately.
IndependentsNov 24, 2025
J.R. Dunn Jewelers Names New PresidentSecond-generation jeweler Sean Dunn has taken on the role.
Brought to you by
Impacting Tomorrow TodayHow Jewelers of America’s 20 Under 40 are leading to ensure a brighter future for the jewelry industry.
MajorsNov 21, 2025
Natural Diamond Council Names New CEOAmber Pepper’s main focus will be on digital innovation and engaging younger consumers.
Weekly QuizNov 20, 2025
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
SourcingNov 21, 2025
De Beers’ Branded, Traceable Diamonds Roll Out to 19 Retailers Called “Origin by De Beers Group,” the loose, polished diamonds are being sold in a total of 30 stores in the United States and Canada.
AuctionsNov 20, 2025
Vanderbilt Jewels Shine at Phillips Sale, Pink Diamond WithdrawnA 43-carat sapphire brooch from the Vanderbilt collection was the top lot of the Geneva sale.
Brought to you by
Roseco Releases New Full-Line CatalogRoseco’s 704-page catalog showcases new lab-grown diamonds, findings, tools & more—available in print or interactive digital editions.
CollectionsNov 20, 2025
Rebecca Rau Jewels Debuts With ‘Then & Now’ CollectionRau is a fourth-generation art and antique dealer from M.S. Rau gallery whose first jewelry collection merges artifacts with modern design.
Policies & IssuesNov 20, 2025
RJC Names New Executive DirectorFormer De Beers sustainability leader Purvi Shah will take over the role in February 2026.
WatchesNov 20, 2025
LVMH Takes Minority Stake in Citizen Group-Owned Movement Maker La Joux-Perret is based in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, and makes solar quartz as well as mechanical watch movements.
GradingNov 20, 2025
Julia Griffith Joins SSEF as Head of EducationShe previously taught at Gem-A and is the founder of The Gem Academy.
CollectionsNov 19, 2025
Larkspur & Hawk Celebrates 25 Years With Helena Bonham Carter CampaignThe British actress and her daughter modeled pieces from the brand’s new “Palette” capsule for its “Once Upon a Time” holiday campaign.
TechnologyNov 19, 2025
Google Has a New Form for Reporting ‘Review Bombing’ Attacks Plus, the tech giant shares the steps retailers should take if they believe they’re a victim of a review extortion scam.
IndependentsNov 19, 2025
Houston Jeweler Keith Shaftel Retires, Next Generation Steps In Danny and Gaby Shaftel are now Shaftel Diamonds’ CEO and chief operating officer, respectively.
TrendsNov 19, 2025
Midas Chain Releases 2025 Holiday Style GuideThe jewelry manufacturer’s seasonal offering features its new “Melodie” bangles, as well as mini stud earrings and layering pieces.
Events & AwardsNov 18, 2025
NYC Jewelry Week 2025: 12 Must-See EventsWith more than 140 activations taking place in New York City now through Nov. 23, these 12 events are can’t-miss moments.
MajorsNov 18, 2025
Lugano Diamonds Files for Bankruptcy, Looking for BuyerThe Chapter 11 filing follows the resignation of CEO Moti Ferder, who stepped down after an investigation into the company’s finances.
Events & AwardsNov 18, 2025
A Giant, Bejeweled Moldy Berry Is on Display in LAThe artwork is part of an exhibition featuring works by Kathleen Ryan, an artist known for her gemstone-studded rotting fruit sculptures.
SourcingNov 18, 2025
Another Diamond Company CEO Steps DownMark Wall, president and CEO of Canadian mining company Mountain Province Diamonds, will vacate his position next month.
CrimeNov 17, 2025
Police Searching for 2 Suspects in Murder of Father, Son Jewelers Faustino Alamo Dominguez and his son, 25-year-old Luis Angel Alamo, were gunned down following an armed robbery at their jewelry store.
GradingNov 17, 2025
IGI Announces New President of North AmericaTiffany & Co. veteran Jeffrey Bennett has stepped into the role.
MajorsNov 17, 2025
Look Inside Robbins Brothers Fine Jewelers’ New Pasadena FlagshipThe showroom is located in a historic 1920s building in the Playhouse District.
Policies & IssuesNov 14, 2025
U.S., Switzerland Reach Deal That Drops Tariff to 15%The Swiss government announced the deal, which cuts the tax on Swiss imports by more than half, on social media Friday morning.
AuctionsNov 14, 2025
Napoleon’s Diamond Brooch Blows Away Auction Estimates A buyer paid $4.4 million for the piece, which Napoleon wore on his hat for special occasions and left behind when he fled Waterloo.
FinancialsNov 14, 2025
Richemont’s Q2 Jewelry Sales Up 12%Plus, how tariffs and the rising price of gold are affecting its watch and jewelry brands.
CollectionsNov 14, 2025
Piece of the Week: Silvia Furmanovich’s ‘Butterflies in Flight’ Jewelry BoxFurmanovich designed the box to hold Mellerio’s “Color Queen,” a high jewelry collection consisting of 10 rings.
