Editors

Q&A: Monica Rich Kosann Looks Back on 20 Years

EditorsOct 28, 2024

Q&A: Monica Rich Kosann Looks Back on 20 Years

The jewelry designer discussed how she got into the jewelry industry, what she keeps in her favorite locket, and the future of her brand.

Monica Rich Kosann
Monica Rich Kosann is the founder of her eponymous brand. She started as a portrait photographer before transitioning to telling stories through jewelry design.
Monica Rich Kosann, the New York-based jewelry brand, is celebrating its 20th year in business.

The brand’s founder, Monica Rich Kosann, began as a photographer who told her clients’ stories through their portraits.

A lover of antiques, she began putting these images in lockets, which became the backbone of her brand.

After 20 years her business has grown to tell a story through every piece, from lockets to charms, bracelets, and rings.

Kosann sat down with National Jeweler to discuss how her photography inspired her locket designs, the secret she keeps in her favorite locket, the best business advice she’s ever received, and her favorite antique piece.

This interview has been edited for length and clarity.

Natalie Francisco: When you were a little girl in New York City, what did you want to be when you grew up?

Monica Rich Kosann: I always wanted to be a fashion designer. I loved, loved clothing and shopping.

I used to have sketchbooks, and I used to always sketch all these different outfits and women in clothing and jewelry and hats.

NF: What sparked you to switch from professional portrait photography to jewelry design?

MRK: My roots are as a photographer and from the photography I got into jewelry because I was a storyteller.

Getting into jewelry was natural for me because I used to collect a lot of vintage lockets, powder compacts, and cigarette cases and put my clients’ photos in vintage pieces.

That’s how it started, because my clients wanted more and I would say, “That was a one-of-a-kind, a vintage piece.”

I started with the lockets and then I got into the medallions, charms, bracelets, necklaces, stacking rings, earrings, and everything.

Lockets are really the gateway to storytelling and that’s how I started.

I always say it’s about my customer’s story, not about my story. My jewelry is a vehicle for a woman to celebrate her milestones and wear her story.

NF: What do you mean when you say, “Lockets are the sexiest piece of jewelry a woman can wear. They hold her secrets.”?

MRK: I started with the lockets because I felt lockets were the sexiest piece of jewelry a women can wear because no one knows what’s in it unless you share it.

That’s what’s so cool about lockets; it’s not about being a grandma, it’s about holding your secrets, inspirations, memories, mantras, and manifestations.

NF: Lockets are the backbone of your brand. What is your favorite locket design from the past 20 years?

MRK: They’re all my babies, so I love all of them.

One of my first lockets was the “Gate” locket and it was inspired by a photo I took of a girl behind this beautiful iron gate, and everyone used to say to me, “Who is that? Where is she?”

Monica Rich Kosann Gate Photo and Locket
On the left is the portrait Kosann took that inspired her “Gate” lockets, seen right.


It was so mysterious, and I have a special place in my heart for the “Gate” lockets.

NF: In your opinion, what is the best equipment to use to take a photo that’s going to be used in a locket?

MRK: Your iPhone is the best place because your life is on your camera roll.

We have The Locket Bar so you can fill in three easy steps—you choose your locket, you download the picture from your phone and fix it up and decide how you want it, then it prints out at your home computer.

NF: Is there any specific paper you think works best to print a photo for a locket?

MRK: Honestly, no. I think any paper is fine if it fits into your locket.

In our stores we use a nicer stock, but when I’m changing them at home, sometimes I just use paper since the locket has plastic over it.

I like to change mine a lot and I don’t take it too seriously.

NF: How does your jewelry empower its wearer?

MRK: My jewelry is like your daily armor. They are like tattoos for your day.

Every piece I design has a reason behind it and a special message for you as the wearer. 

For instance, today I am wearing a compass because I’m on a certain journey in my life now, so it’s celebrating my journey and it’s reminding me to stay on my path. 

Then I wear my fish rings every day. These are for perseverance, and they say that inside them. 

They are all about moving forward and not getting stuck in the past, no shoulda, coulda, woulda.


Everything means something, down to every charm I’m wearing.

Everything I design I want to empower and inspire my wearer, my customer. I want her to feel strong by wearing the pieces, so everything has to have a message for her.

I have the power when I wear it and when you wear it, it’s for you.

NF: I read that you love to go antiquing. Do you have a favorite antique, jewelry or otherwise?

MRK: Wherever I travel in the world, literally the first thing I do is go downstairs to the main desk and say, “Can you tell me where your flea markets are? And what days are they open? And what are the hours?”

I would say what has probably inspired an entire collection for me is Craquelure pottery from the Art Deco period of a fish.

That’s where the fish comes from. It never left my brain, and I never forgot it.

I have a lot of vintage jewelry too.

I’m wearing a vintage watch right now. I feel like this should not be in my hands because on the back it says, “to Bernie from Snooky.”

NF: How do you feel wearing pieces that you know people have gifted to each other?

MRK: I feel like I’m wearing someone else’s heirloom, but I love that it came with a story already.

I love working with vintage diamonds because they were in a piece that’s already lived a life.

NF: Do you have a favorite piece of jewelry, or one that you never take off?

MRK: I do. My “Finn” locket is one of them.

In it I have my favorite poem, which is by Robert Frost [and begins with,] “two roads diverged,” and the last line, “and I took the road less traveled by.”

That’s sort of a mantra that I live by.

I brought my daughters up to live by it—be your own person and be on the journey in the paths that are for you and that work for your life.

Monica Rich Kosann Finn Locket
Kosann’s personal “Finn” locket holds her favorite poem, “The Road Not Taken” by Robert Frost.


NF: I saw that Nicole Kidman wore a “Design Your Own” necklace from your brand with an “Anna” locket, “Mini Compass” pendant and your “Points North” drop earrings in her new movie, “Babygirl.” Do you have a favorite celebrity jewelry moment from the past 20 years?

MRK: The first celebrity to ever wear our locket was Katie Holmes. She had one of our lockets in silver and in gold.

I have no idea where she got it, and she was on the cover of People with it. She was on all those magazines where they photographed her and Tom Cruise like crazy.

She never took that locket off.

That was one of my first, “Oh my god, is this real?” moments. Someone else is wearing it who doesn’t know you, and just wore it because they love it.

Katie Holmes Locket
Katie Holmes wearing a Monica Rich Kosann locket


NF: What was it like collaborating on a collection of tennis bracelets with sports legend Chris Evert?

MRK: She and I have become really good friends. She had two bouts of cancer and is still upbeat and positive. She’s a driven, focused woman.

When they approached us originally, I wasn’t sure because we’re a storytelling brand and her story is amazing. She invented the tennis bracelet and never had a say in a billion-dollar industry.

Who needs me necessarily for another diamond tennis bracelet, right?

I met with her and said, “Tell me what you remember [about] that day.”

She said, “I remember sweating profusely. I loved being feminine, so I had my diamond bracelet on, bows in my hair, pompoms on my socks.

“I remember the green of the court and the white lines. And I remember all of a sudden, my bracelet was gone.”

I said this is amazing, we’re going to make this collection called the “The Tennis Bracelet-CE. Born 1978. Finally Authentic.”

Monica Rich Kosann Tennis Bracelet Collection with Chris Evert
Tennis bracelets from the “The Tennis Bracelet-CE. Born 1978. Finally Authentic” collection with tennis legend Chris Evert


Every bracelet comes with a little emerald representing the court, an oval diamond representing her sweating profusely, and the other diamonds being the white lines.

We made it our own, it tells a story.

NF: As a designer, what has been the biggest change in the jewelry industry from your viewpoint over the last 20 years?

MRK: When I started, I was creating pieces that were personal for women and that would be their way of telling their stories and pieces that could become heirlooms in their family because it told their stories.

I feel now everyone is a storyteller. Everyone is doing things that tell stories.

When I started it wasn’t a thing, so I think that that’s probably the biggest change that I’ve seen over the years.

NF: What is the best business advice you’ve ever gotten, and did you take it?

MRK: I would say the best advice I ever got is to have a sense of humor.

You have to be able to make fun of yourself and make light of situations. 

My glass is always half full and that’s always been my way. 

I always remember that my dad, who was an entrepreneur himself said, “If you don’t have a sense of humor and you don’t laugh at things, then what is it all about?”

I think that’s why we’re still in this business after 20 years.

 Related stories will be right here … 

NF: What is the worst business advice you’ve ever gotten, and did you take it?

MRK: One of the worst things that anyone ever told me was that you have to be on-trend.

I thought, oh no, this is the antithesis of my business.

I do not design to be on-trend. I design to be timeless, classic, to be inspirational and empowering for women.

NF: Do you have any new store openings in the works, new collections, or collabs?

MRK: We are always doing new collaborations so stay tuned for that.

We just opened up our third freestanding store in Troy, Michigan, and we just redid our entire Bergdorf Goodman shop on the seventh floor.

We’re probably heading towards looking into more brick-and-mortar because we already have a very strong direct-to-consumer brand and we’re in over 130 wholesale doors.

NF: Where do you see your jewelry brand 20 years from now?

MRK: I see it continuing to grow, continuing to stay fresh and modern, continuing to have more stores all over the world.

I think that our pieces will continue to empower and inspire women and tell their stories in new, fresh, and modern ways.

The Latest

Saks on Amazon flagship window
MajorsMay 16, 2025
Saks Fifth Avenue, Amazon Partner on Luxury Online Storefront

Plus, parent company Saks Global announces plans to cut ties with up to 600 vendors.

Graphic for My Next Question webinar with guest Peter Smith
Recorded WebinarsMay 16, 2025
Watch: Physical Retail Is Not Dead

Peter Smith joined Michelle Graff to chat about the state of brick-and-mortar stores and share a few book and podcast recommendations.

Tejen Candy Bowl Torque Necklace
CollectionsMay 16, 2025
Piece of the Week: Tejen’s ‘Candy Bowl’ Torque Necklace

The necklace features a candy-colored Australian white opal in 18-karat Fairmined gold, as the brand was named a Fairmined ambassador.

antique_Vegas_2024_by_headshot_stories_9454.jpg
Brought to you by
Las Vegas Antique Jewelry & Watch Show: Showcasing the Most Collectible Merchandise from Across the Globe

Gain access to the most exclusive and coveted antique pieces from trusted dealers during Las Vegas Jewelry Week.

1 Camilla Dietz Bergeron.jpg
Supplier BulletinMay 15, 2025
Treasure Hunting at the Las Vegas Antique Jewelry and Watch Show

Sponsored by the Las Vegas Antique Jewelry and Watch Show

Weekly QuizMay 15, 2025
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
The Mediterranean Blue diamond
AuctionsMay 15, 2025
'The Mediterranean Blue' Diamond Sells for $21M at Sotheby’s

A private American collector purchased the 10-carat fancy vivid blue diamond.

Jessica McCormack Fruit Salad Campaign Imagery
CollectionsMay 15, 2025
Jessica McCormack’s ‘Fruit Salad’ Collection Is Fresh for Summer

The designer has taken the appeal of freshly picked fruit and channeled it into a capsule collection of earrings, necklaces, and pendants.

Supplier Spotlight -Recorded-Webinar.png
Brought to you by
Watch: The Winston Red: GIA Examines the Smithsonian’s Newest Addition

Supplier Spotlight Sponsored by GIA

Stock image of diamonds
SourcingMay 15, 2025
Tariffs Take Toll on India’s Gem and Jewelry Industry in April

The country’s gem and jewelry exports fell 5 percent year-over-year last month, while imports declined 18 percent.

Disability advocate Catarina Rivera, JVC ADA compliance guide, circle of hands wearing jewelry
Policies & IssuesMay 15, 2025
State of Retail: How to Better Serve Customers With Disabilities

Around 54 million Americans and counting live with a disability. Here’s how to make your jewelry store and website more accessible.

Sekou Andrews
Events & AwardsMay 15, 2025
Poet Sekou Andrews to Give Closing Keynote at Converge

The event is also accepting poster submissions now through June 16.

Pope Francis
Policies & IssuesMay 14, 2025
Here’s What Happened to Pope Francis’ Ring

Before Pope Leo XIV was elected, a centuries-old procedure regarding the late pontiff’s ring was followed.

1998 Cosmograph Daytona, Ref.16516 Rolex
AuctionsMay 14, 2025
Custom Rolex Pulled From Sotheby’s Sale

The one-of-a-kind platinum Rolex Cosmograph Daytona was estimated to fetch up to $1.7 million.

Jeweler Constance Polamalu at Bloomstone, a store that specializes in lab-grown diamonds
Lab-GrownMay 14, 2025
State of Diamonds: What’s Next for Lab-Grown Diamonds?

While the product has entrenched itself in the market, retailers and consultants are assessing the next phase of the category’s development.

Surveillance footage Tiffany & Co. Seattle robbery
CrimeMay 14, 2025
Seattle Detectives Seek Public’s Help in Tiffany & Co. Robberies

The police are trying to identify the man suspected of robbing two Tiffany & Co. locations in the area.

Jeff Corey, new chairperson of the board for the Jewelers Board of Trade
MajorsMay 14, 2025
Jeff Corey Elected Chair of JBT Board

The well-known Maine jeweler takes over for Brian Fleming and will serve a one-year term.

Foundrae Ingot Pendant
Policies & IssuesMay 14, 2025
Foundrae Donates $11K to Ethical Metalsmiths

The donation was the result of the brand’s annual Earth Day Ingot event.

Eiseman Jewels ribbon cutting ceremony
IndependentsMay 13, 2025
Eiseman Jewels’ Renovated Dallas Store Is Bigger and Better

Located in NorthPark Center, the revamped store is nearly 2,000 square feet larger and includes the first Tudor boutique in Dallas.

Diamond Council of America
MajorsMay 13, 2025
DCA Announces New Learning Platform, Course Updates

The nonprofit has made updates to the content in its beginner and advanced jewelry sales courses.

Malyia McNaughton and Elyssa Jenkins-Pérez
MajorsMay 13, 2025
BIJC Launches New Education Fund

BIJC President Malyia McNaughton will shift roles to lead the new foundation, and Elyssa Jenkins-Pérez will succeed her as president.

Harwell Godfrey Snake Giza Ring, Foundrae Mind, Body Soul Story Necklace, Tiffany & Co. Tiffany Titan By Pharrell Williams Bracelet
TrendsMay 13, 2025
State of Jewelry Design: The Top 10 Jewelry Trends of the Past Decade

As a nod to the theme of JCK Las Vegas 2025, “Decades,” National Jeweler took a look back at the top 10 jewelry trends of the past 10 years.

Lightbox’s Reminiscence Poet earrings in 14-karat white gold with lab-grown diamonds
Lab-GrownMay 12, 2025
Lightbox to Go Dark by Summer, De Beers Says

The company plans to halt all consumer-facing activity this summer, while Lightbox factory operations will cease by the end of the year.

Stock image of shipping containers
Policies & IssuesMay 12, 2025
Tariffs on Chinese Imports Temporarily Slashed as U.S.-China Reach Deal

Following weekend negotiations, the tax on Chinese goods imported into the United States will drop by 115 percent for the next 90 days.

Artists’ Jewelry: From Cubism to Pop, the Diane Venet Collection
Events & AwardsMay 12, 2025
Jewelry By Picasso, Dalí on Display at Florida Art Museum

“Artists’ Jewelry: From Cubism to Pop, the Diane Venet Collection” is on view at the Norton Museum of Art through October.

2025 CASE Award Submission Graphic
Events & AwardsMay 12, 2025
CASE Awards Now Accepting Entries For 2025

The deadline to submit is June 16.

Lugano Diamonds store in Greenwich, Connecticut
IndependentsMay 09, 2025
Lugano Diamonds CEO Resigns Amid Internal Investigation

Moti Ferder stepped down Wednesday and will not receive any severance pay, parent company Compass Diversified said.

Coeur Percé Scapular Necklace and Love Baby Locket
CollectionsMay 09, 2025
Pieces of the Week: Marie Lichtenberg’s Collaborations for Mother’s Day

Lichtenberg partnered with luxury platform Mytheresa on two designs honoring the connection between mothers and daughters.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy