Policies & Issues

From Mine to Met: Event Co-Chair Gives Platform to Responsibly Sourced Gold

Policies & IssuesMay 03, 2023

From Mine to Met: Event Co-Chair Gives Platform to Responsibly Sourced Gold

Actress Michaela Coel was “dripping in gold” at the Met Gala, wearing jewelry handmade by fellow British-Ghanian artist Emefa Cole.

20230503_EmefaCole-Header.jpg
Michaela Coel approached jewelry designer Emefa Cole ahead of the Met Gala to inquire about Single Mine Origin gold jewelry to represent their shared Ghanaian heritage at the event. Cole styled her with a gold headpiece, a pair of earrings and two cocktail rings from her new “Worth Their Weight” collection. (Photo credit/courtesy of Emefa Cole and Getty Images)
New York—London-based jewelry artist Emefa Cole, together with Single Mine Origin (SMO), created gold jewelry for award-winning actress Michaela Coel to wear as co-chair of the Met Gala. 

Coel was the star, writer and co-director of the 2020 BBC One and HBO limited series “I May Destroy You.” In 2021, she won the Emmy for Outstanding Writing for a Limited Anthology Series or Movie, the first Black woman to do so.

Arriving at the Met on Monday night, Coel wore a handmade coral-esque headpiece clipped into her hair near the nape of her neck, a pair of bold gold statement earrings and two cocktail rings, hand textured to look like silky liquid gold.


When the actress approached Cole to inquire about styling her for the event, her wish was to be “dripping in gold.”

The pieces couldn’t be just any gold, though; it had to be SMO gold responsibly sourced from West Africa, the land of both their parents’ birth.

Because the two share a British-Ghanaian heritage, Cole said sourcing the gold from Endeavor Mining’s Ity mine on the Ivory Coast in West Africa, “really ties [Coel and I] together completely.”

As a designer, Cole’s process always has included recycled metals and stones sourced from Africa, inspired by her homeland.

After being connected with SMO in 2020, she said she made the decision to pivot from using recycled gold to using only SMO gold from West Africa.

According to Single Mine Origin, their gold is the first transparent and traceable gold that has full chain of custody and is fully audited.  All jewelry made with SMO gold comes with a QR code that shows its journey from mine to market.

The company wants to assure consumers their gold was mined responsibly and is free of mercury, which is harmful to miners and the environment, as well as confirming that miners are paid fairly.

“I switched to SMO gold because of 100 percent traceability,” Cole said. “Also, the fact that it’s from a region I come from, and the benefits for the people within that region, the miners. The ethics of the company I found in line with my own values and that’s, for me, quite important.”

The pieces Coel wore at the gala contain a unique QR code that allows viewers to follow the gold from Mine to Met by witnessing the journey of the gold, from the mine, the miners, and the community and environmental projects they support, to meeting Emefa Cole in her studio and, finally, seeing Michaela Coel on the red carpet at the Met Gala.

“It was so beautiful for [Coel] to make that connection and to have such a conscious mind about where the jewelry comes from, the entire chain from mine to maker to wearer,” Cole said.

Following the Met, the pieces will become part of “Worth Their Weight,” a collection by the designer inspired by her partnership with Coel and released the day after the Met Gala.

Cole designed and made every piece in Worth Their Weight, except for Coel’s hairpiece. For that, she collaborated with 28-year-old jeweler Benjamin Hawkins, with whom she shares a space at The Goldsmiths’ Centre, a creative community founded by The Goldsmiths’ Company. The piece has both their hallmarks on it.

20230503_EmefaCole-Headpiece.jpg
The front and back view of the gold hairpiece Michaela Coel wore at the Met Gala on Monday. It boasts three hallmarks: Single Mine Origin, jewelry designer Emefa Cole, and Benjamin Hawkins, a jeweler who collaborated with the designer to make the piece. (Photo courtesy of Emefa Cole.)


“He’s already a master with his own apprentice, and that in itself is rare,” Cole said of Hawkins. “When I met Michaela, Ben was there with me, so she got a sense of the both of us because we were working together. He was incredibly supportive and sort of had the confidence to say, ‘We can do this.’”

The Worth Their Weight collection also includes two large cuffs, a bangle and a brooch. The collection’s name is a play on the sheer weight of traceable gold and the traditional Akan brass weights used by West African people as measuring tools, according to SMO’s website.

“I don’t just make a whole collection and push it all out there at once. It develops as time goes on,” Cole said. “I like to work in a very methodical and patient matter. I add to the pieces as time goes on, which why my ‘Erosion’ series and my ‘Vulcan’ series are continuing, because I have too much inspiration for these pieces. I can’t just do it and then just let it go.”

Coel was familiar with the designer’s Vulcan series when she reached out about the Met Gala. 

“She recently wore my jewelry for a shoot, which was a collaboration between her, the British Film Institute, and BMW, and the pictures were so powerful,” Cole said. “She looked absolutely amazing. She was wearing the ‘Caldera’ rings. That’s how she became aware of my pieces.”

The Vulcan series rings have opened other doors for Cole in her career, as they were acquired by both the The Goldsmiths’ Company’s collection, and the Victoria & Albert Museum (V&A) in London.

Cole first moved to London when she was 12 with a fascination for jewelry, precious metals, stones and the geological process of the Earth, such as volcanoes, already instilled in her. 

She graduated from London Metropolitan University’s Cass School of Art, Media and Design with a bachelor’s degree in Silversmithing and Jewelry in 2011.
 
She also has completed an apprenticeship with the personal Goldsmiths of the Asantehene (The King of the Ashanti) in Ghana, “facilitating a thorough exploration of the ancient lost-wax casting method, which the Ashanti have perfected,” according to her website.

In November 2019, Cole was exhibiting her jewelry at a contemporary craft fair when V&A curator of jewelry Clare Phillips approached her and bought a custom oxidized silver ring with pyrite and gold leaf for her personal collection. 

Phillips later emailed Cole saying the V&A wanted to acquire one of the rings for their permanent collection. In January 2020, the museum chose an “Untitled” ring, which resembles a Caldera ring but, Cole’s website confirms, is not officially named.

 Related stories will be right here … 

In August of last year, Cole was appointed inaugural curator for diaspora jewelry at V&A, having responded to a call for applications by the museum, which had created four new curatorial positions to grow its African and African diaspora collections.

Director of the V&A Tristram Hunt also attended the Met Gala wearing Emefa Cole jewelry, she said. He donned a handmade brooch created from the same batch of gold used to make Coel’s pieces. It is also a part of the Worth Their Weight collection.

20230503_EmefaCole-Vertical.jpg
When styling Michaela Coel for the Met Gala, jewelry designer Emefa Cole said she took inspiration from only one place, Coel's desire to be "dripping in gold." (Photo credit/courtesy of Emefa Cole and Getty Images)


Inspired by the theme for the gala, Cole said the brooch, comprised of solid gold from the pin to the hook, is “really a line of beauty.”

“It’s a really beautiful story for us, for the V&A as well, to have Tristram wearing the brooch. It really does align with our values as a museum and being more mindful of where materials are coming from and supporting sustainable companies and mining regions around the world,” Cole said. “For the director to be wearing this is truly special.”

As for Michaela Coel, Cole said, “I was really touched that she only wanted to wear my jewelry.”

A deliberate choice by all, Cole’s jewelry allowed responsibly sourced, traceable gold to be front and center at what is considered fashion’s biggest night worldwide. 

The Latest

Stafford’s Diamonds closing ad
IndependentsMar 14, 2025
Stafford’s Diamonds in Ohio to Close After 40 Years

The Dayton-based jeweler, which has been in business since 1985, was formerly known as Stafford Jewelers.

Alan Zimmer
Events & AwardsMar 14, 2025
JVC Reveals Recipient of Stanley Schechter Award

Reeds Jewelers CEO Alan Zimmer will be presented with the honor at JVC’s annual luncheon.

Sorellina’s Aries Zodiac Pendant
CollectionsMar 14, 2025
Piece of the Week: Sorellina’s Aries Zodiac Pendant

The piece, celebrating birthdays from March 21 to April 19, debuted with Sorellina’s new line of astrological pendants.

Supplier Spotlight -Recorded-Webinar.png
Brought to you by
Watch: GIA Field Gemology at the One-Hundredth Expedition: A Look Back and to the Future

Supplier Spotlight Sponsored by GIA

Tanishq Atlanta store
MajorsMar 13, 2025
Tanishq Opens 2 New Stores in the U.S.

The Indian jewelry brand recently opened stores in Atlanta and Seattle.

Weekly QuizMar 14, 2025
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Woman wearing Brilliant Earth jewelry
FinancialsMar 13, 2025
Brilliant Earth’s 2024 Sales Struggled Amid Engagement Recovery

CEO Beth Gerstein shared its most popular price points, what’s trending in non-bridal fine jewelry, and its holiday performance.

Chopard Insofu emerald collection
CollectionsMar 13, 2025
Chopard Unveils High Jewelry Collection Created From 6,225-Carat Emerald

The 15 pieces were crafted from the “Insofu” emerald, discovered in Zambia in 2010.

Facets-of-Fire-Difference-You-Can-See.jpg
Brought to you by
Natural Diamonds Should Mean More

Natural diamonds mean more than lab-grown, but when every cut is ideal, they all look the same. Customers want more—Facets of Fire delivers.

Chris Anderson
MajorsMar 13, 2025
Jewelers Mutual Names New CFO, Treasurer

Chris Anderson is joining the insurance provider as the new chief financial officer and treasurer.

Jewelers of America’s new natural and lab-grown diamond brochure
Lab-GrownMar 13, 2025
JA Offering Some ‘Counter Intelligence’ on Diamonds

Jewelers of America is distributing a brochure for retailers to use when discussing the differences between natural and lab-grown diamonds.

A rough diamond and a polished diamond
SourcingMar 12, 2025
5 Factors That Will Impact the Diamond Industry in 2025

The industry is changing as it grapples with new realities around distribution, supply, and the need for consistent, effective marketing.

New Gem & Jewellery Export Promotion Council Chairman Kirit Bhansali
SourcingMar 12, 2025
Q&A: New GJEPC Chairman Kirit Bhansali

Bhansali discusses the potential impact of U.S. tariffs, demand for diamonds by market, and the “cautious confidence” in India right now.

Limelight Lab Grown Diamond store in India
Lab-GrownMar 12, 2025
Beyond Jewelry: Possibilities in the Lab-Grown Diamond Sector

As lab-grown diamond brands pop up across India, academics are researching how to grow demand outside of the jewelry industry.

Diamonds Do Good honoree Govind Dholakia at medical camp
SourcingMar 12, 2025
Indian Leader, Retailer Among 2025 DDG Honorees

Govind Dholakia and Tanishq will be recognized for their contributions to the industry at the Diamonds Do Good Awards in Las Vegas.

Marla Aaron Liberty London Shop-in-Shop
IndependentsMar 12, 2025
Marla Aaron Migrates to London

The New York City-based brand has opened its first U.K. location with a permanent shop-in-shop at Liberty in London.

Medieval sapphire bishop ring
AuctionsMar 12, 2025
A Medieval Bishop’s Sapphire Ring Is Going Up for Sale

A metal detectorist discovered the ring that is believed to have belonged to a bishop in the late 12th to early 13th century.

JA New York sign
Events & AwardsMar 12, 2025
JA New York Announces Education, Live Demo Lineups

Organizers looked to new partnerships and interactive experiences to enhance the spring show, set for March 16 to 18.

Jewelers Vigilance Committee annual luncheon 2025 logo
Events & AwardsMar 12, 2025
Bogolo Joy Kenewendo to Speak at Annual JVC Luncheon

Kenewendo, Botswana’s minister of minerals and energy, will discuss the future of diamonds.

Jaythan Lawrence Gilder and body scan
CrimeMar 11, 2025
Man in Florida Swallows Allegedly Stolen Tiffany & Co. Jewelry

The suspect allegedly stole almost $800,000 worth of diamond jewelry from a store in Orlando and then swallowed it during a traffic stop.

Duvall O’Steen and Jen Cullen Williams
ColumnistsMar 11, 2025
Creative Connecting: How to Pose on the Red Carpet

Ahead of the Gem Awards on Friday, Jen Cullen Williams and Duvall O’Steen share pro tips for taking the best photos.

Marco Bicego 25 Years Campaign Isabeli Fontana
CollectionsMar 11, 2025
Marco Bicego Celebrates 25 Years With Collection, Campaign

Founded in 2000, Marco Bicego is commemorating its milestone anniversary with a “25 Best” collection and campaigns honoring its heritage.

Hill & Co The List
TechnologyMar 11, 2025
Hill & Co. Launches New B2B Buyer Database

Those attending the company’s upcoming Zoom workshop will receive early access to “The List,” its new resource for finding buyers.

Amy-Elise Signeavsky GIA
Events & AwardsMar 11, 2025
JSA to Honor GIA Employee at Annual Luncheon

The organization will present an award to Amy-Elise Signeavsky, law enforcement and diamond recovery manager at GIA.

Picture of Terry Chandler, president and CEO of the Diamond Council of America
MajorsMar 10, 2025
Terry Chandler to Retire After 24 Years as Head of DCA

Chandler started his jewelry career at Michelson Jewelers, joining the Diamond Council of America as president and CEO in 2001.

MaeVona King of the Mountains Torc
CollectionsMar 10, 2025
MaeVona Co-Founder Debuts 3D-Printed ‘Tùsaire’ Collection

Scottish American designer Maeve Gillies collaborated with Platinum Guild International on jewelry created by direct metal 3D printing.

The Jewelry Symposium 2025 Scholarship Winners
Events & AwardsMar 10, 2025
The Jewelry Symposium Announces 2025 Scholarship Winners

Ahead of its trade show in May, TJS awarded free registration and accommodations to five up-and-coming jewelry industry professionals.

Gem Awards New York City
Events & AwardsMar 10, 2025
These Designers, Journalists, and Retailers Are Up for a Gem Award

The 2025 Gem Awards are set to take place Friday at Cipriani 42nd Street in New York City.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy