Policies & Issues

From Mine to Met: Event Co-Chair Gives Platform to Responsibly Sourced Gold

Policies & IssuesMay 03, 2023

From Mine to Met: Event Co-Chair Gives Platform to Responsibly Sourced Gold

Actress Michaela Coel was “dripping in gold” at the Met Gala, wearing jewelry handmade by fellow British-Ghanian artist Emefa Cole.

20230503_EmefaCole-Header.jpg
Michaela Coel approached jewelry designer Emefa Cole ahead of the Met Gala to inquire about Single Mine Origin gold jewelry to represent their shared Ghanaian heritage at the event. Cole styled her with a gold headpiece, a pair of earrings and two cocktail rings from her new “Worth Their Weight” collection. (Photo credit/courtesy of Emefa Cole and Getty Images)
New York—London-based jewelry artist Emefa Cole, together with Single Mine Origin (SMO), created gold jewelry for award-winning actress Michaela Coel to wear as co-chair of the Met Gala. 

Coel was the star, writer and co-director of the 2020 BBC One and HBO limited series “I May Destroy You.” In 2021, she won the Emmy for Outstanding Writing for a Limited Anthology Series or Movie, the first Black woman to do so.

Arriving at the Met on Monday night, Coel wore a handmade coral-esque headpiece clipped into her hair near the nape of her neck, a pair of bold gold statement earrings and two cocktail rings, hand textured to look like silky liquid gold.


When the actress approached Cole to inquire about styling her for the event, her wish was to be “dripping in gold.”

The pieces couldn’t be just any gold, though; it had to be SMO gold responsibly sourced from West Africa, the land of both their parents’ birth.

Because the two share a British-Ghanaian heritage, Cole said sourcing the gold from Endeavor Mining’s Ity mine on the Ivory Coast in West Africa, “really ties [Coel and I] together completely.”

As a designer, Cole’s process always has included recycled metals and stones sourced from Africa, inspired by her homeland.

After being connected with SMO in 2020, she said she made the decision to pivot from using recycled gold to using only SMO gold from West Africa.

According to Single Mine Origin, their gold is the first transparent and traceable gold that has full chain of custody and is fully audited.  All jewelry made with SMO gold comes with a QR code that shows its journey from mine to market.

The company wants to assure consumers their gold was mined responsibly and is free of mercury, which is harmful to miners and the environment, as well as confirming that miners are paid fairly.

“I switched to SMO gold because of 100 percent traceability,” Cole said. “Also, the fact that it’s from a region I come from, and the benefits for the people within that region, the miners. The ethics of the company I found in line with my own values and that’s, for me, quite important.”

The pieces Coel wore at the gala contain a unique QR code that allows viewers to follow the gold from Mine to Met by witnessing the journey of the gold, from the mine, the miners, and the community and environmental projects they support, to meeting Emefa Cole in her studio and, finally, seeing Michaela Coel on the red carpet at the Met Gala.

“It was so beautiful for [Coel] to make that connection and to have such a conscious mind about where the jewelry comes from, the entire chain from mine to maker to wearer,” Cole said.

Following the Met, the pieces will become part of “Worth Their Weight,” a collection by the designer inspired by her partnership with Coel and released the day after the Met Gala.

Cole designed and made every piece in Worth Their Weight, except for Coel’s hairpiece. For that, she collaborated with 28-year-old jeweler Benjamin Hawkins, with whom she shares a space at The Goldsmiths’ Centre, a creative community founded by The Goldsmiths’ Company. The piece has both their hallmarks on it.

20230503_EmefaCole-Headpiece.jpg
The front and back view of the gold hairpiece Michaela Coel wore at the Met Gala on Monday. It boasts three hallmarks: Single Mine Origin, jewelry designer Emefa Cole, and Benjamin Hawkins, a jeweler who collaborated with the designer to make the piece. (Photo courtesy of Emefa Cole.)


“He’s already a master with his own apprentice, and that in itself is rare,” Cole said of Hawkins. “When I met Michaela, Ben was there with me, so she got a sense of the both of us because we were working together. He was incredibly supportive and sort of had the confidence to say, ‘We can do this.’”

The Worth Their Weight collection also includes two large cuffs, a bangle and a brooch. The collection’s name is a play on the sheer weight of traceable gold and the traditional Akan brass weights used by West African people as measuring tools, according to SMO’s website.

“I don’t just make a whole collection and push it all out there at once. It develops as time goes on,” Cole said. “I like to work in a very methodical and patient matter. I add to the pieces as time goes on, which why my ‘Erosion’ series and my ‘Vulcan’ series are continuing, because I have too much inspiration for these pieces. I can’t just do it and then just let it go.”

Coel was familiar with the designer’s Vulcan series when she reached out about the Met Gala. 

“She recently wore my jewelry for a shoot, which was a collaboration between her, the British Film Institute, and BMW, and the pictures were so powerful,” Cole said. “She looked absolutely amazing. She was wearing the ‘Caldera’ rings. That’s how she became aware of my pieces.”

The Vulcan series rings have opened other doors for Cole in her career, as they were acquired by both the The Goldsmiths’ Company’s collection, and the Victoria & Albert Museum (V&A) in London.

Cole first moved to London when she was 12 with a fascination for jewelry, precious metals, stones and the geological process of the Earth, such as volcanoes, already instilled in her. 

She graduated from London Metropolitan University’s Cass School of Art, Media and Design with a bachelor’s degree in Silversmithing and Jewelry in 2011.
 
She also has completed an apprenticeship with the personal Goldsmiths of the Asantehene (The King of the Ashanti) in Ghana, “facilitating a thorough exploration of the ancient lost-wax casting method, which the Ashanti have perfected,” according to her website.

In November 2019, Cole was exhibiting her jewelry at a contemporary craft fair when V&A curator of jewelry Clare Phillips approached her and bought a custom oxidized silver ring with pyrite and gold leaf for her personal collection. 

Phillips later emailed Cole saying the V&A wanted to acquire one of the rings for their permanent collection. In January 2020, the museum chose an “Untitled” ring, which resembles a Caldera ring but, Cole’s website confirms, is not officially named.

 Related stories will be right here … 

In August of last year, Cole was appointed inaugural curator for diaspora jewelry at V&A, having responded to a call for applications by the museum, which had created four new curatorial positions to grow its African and African diaspora collections.

Director of the V&A Tristram Hunt also attended the Met Gala wearing Emefa Cole jewelry, she said. He donned a handmade brooch created from the same batch of gold used to make Coel’s pieces. It is also a part of the Worth Their Weight collection.

20230503_EmefaCole-Vertical.jpg
When styling Michaela Coel for the Met Gala, jewelry designer Emefa Cole said she took inspiration from only one place, Coel's desire to be "dripping in gold." (Photo credit/courtesy of Emefa Cole and Getty Images)


Inspired by the theme for the gala, Cole said the brooch, comprised of solid gold from the pin to the hook, is “really a line of beauty.”

“It’s a really beautiful story for us, for the V&A as well, to have Tristram wearing the brooch. It really does align with our values as a museum and being more mindful of where materials are coming from and supporting sustainable companies and mining regions around the world,” Cole said. “For the director to be wearing this is truly special.”

As for Michaela Coel, Cole said, “I was really touched that she only wanted to wear my jewelry.”

A deliberate choice by all, Cole’s jewelry allowed responsibly sourced, traceable gold to be front and center at what is considered fashion’s biggest night worldwide. 

The Latest

Cast Issa Rae
MajorsJul 01, 2025
Cast Closes Business, Plans for Relaunch

The jewelry company has closed its three California brick-and-mortar stores, as well as its online shop, for now.

Eve Goldberg, Matthew Denatale, Willie Lopez, Benjamin Goldberg
Events & AwardsJul 01, 2025
William Goldberg Diamonds, FIT Partner for Apprenticeship Program

The company is providing the opportunity for an FIT student to work alongside master diamond cutter Willie Lopez in its workshop.

Elie Hannoush
IndependentsJul 01, 2025
Elie Hannoush, Founder of Hannoush Jewelers, Dies at 73

He is remembered for his successful entrepreneurship, generosity, and dedication to his family.

an instructor and a student in a bench jewelry classroom
Brought to you by
Investing in the Next Generation of Bench Jewelers

The Seymour & Evelyn Holtzman Bench Scholarship from Jewelers of America returns for a second year.

Claire’s store
MajorsJul 01, 2025
Claire’s Is Looking for a Buyer, Report Says

The jewelry store chain has reportedly been struggling with costs related to tariffs as well as tough retail competition.

Weekly QuizJun 26, 2025
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Mindi Mond Spike Earrings
TrendsJul 01, 2025
Amanda’s Style File: Red Hot Rubies

Welcome warm summer days with red hot rubies perfectly chosen as July’s birthstone.

The Story of Everything Campaign, Toadstool Mushroom and Cosmic Egg
CollectionsJun 30, 2025
State Property’s New Jewelry Tells ‘The Story of Everything’

Co-founders Afzal Imram and Lin Ruiyin brought their son’s story of a cosmic egg, toadstool, and railroad to life in their new collection.

Jewelers of America logo with meetup, State of the Majors, giveaway and massages
Brought to you by
Jewelers of America is Headed to Las Vegas for JCK 2025

The countdown is on for the JCK Las Vegas Show and JA is pulling out all the stops.

Smart Age Solutions CEO Emmanuel Raheb
ColumnistsJun 30, 2025
The Smart Lab: Why Q3 Is the Secret Weapon For Holiday Jewelry Sales

The best time to prepare for the holiday season is right now, according to columnist Emmanuel Raheb.

Morgan Keefe
Events & AwardsJun 30, 2025
AGA Names Recipient of 2025 Gemological Education Scholarship

This year’s winner is Morgan Keefe, who is currently studying at GIA to be a gemologist.

The Jewelry Book
IndependentsJun 30, 2025
Melanie Grant’s New Book Explores 200 Years of Jewelry

“The Jewelry Book” comes out this September.

Gemist
TechnologyJun 27, 2025
Gemist Raises $6M in Funding to Scale Jewelry Tech Platform

The company is focused on modernizing the custom jewelry buying experience with e-commerce tools like product visualization and 3D styling.

Jeff Preolo, David Stout, Levi Higgs, David Benavides
IndependentsJun 27, 2025
David Webb Announces New Hires, Promotions

Following its recent acquisition, the storied brand has updated its leadership team and regional managers.

Blake Graham and Jessica Kohoutek
Events & AwardsJun 27, 2025
AGS, GIA Announce Beatrice Shipley Scholarship Winner

AGS also named the recipient of its “Women in Leadership” scholarship.

Buddha Mama Monstera Ring
CollectionsJun 27, 2025
Piece of the Week: Buddha Mama’s ‘Monstera’ Wrap Ring

The 20-karat yellow gold and diamond wrap ring is modeled after the Monstera plants in the garden of the brand’s Miami villa.

Cashier handing Rocksbox bag to customer
MajorsJun 26, 2025
Why Rocksbox Is Opening Stores As Signet Jewelers Downsizes

Rocksbox President Allison Vigil shared the retailer’s expansion plans, and her thoughts on opening stores in malls.

Penny Ruston
IndependentsJun 26, 2025
Penny Ruston Dies at 80

The creator of the WJA Chicago chapter is remembered as a champion for women in the jewelry industry and a loving grandmother.

Stock image of woman shopping
SurveysJun 26, 2025
After Recovering in May, Consumer Confidence Dips in June

The decline was consistent across age groups and almost all income groups, with tariffs and inflation still top of mind.

Sorellina Playlist: Electric Dreams Campaign
CollectionsJun 26, 2025
Jam Out With Sorellina’s Jimi Hendrix-Inspired Jewels

The “Playlist: Electric Dreams” collection brings lyrics from the musician’s song, “Little Wing,” to life through fine jewelry.

The Jewelry Symposium event
Events & AwardsJun 26, 2025
The Jewelry Symposium Is Looking for Speakers for 2026 Event

The event is set for May 16-19 in Detroit, Michigan.

Exterior of Marissa Collections’ new store in Nantucket, Massachusetts
IndependentsJun 25, 2025
Marissa Collections Opens in Nantucket as Legal Fight Continues

The Vault’s Katherine Jetter is accusing the retailer of using info she shared for a potential partnership to move into Nantucket.

Counterfeit Cartier “Juste Un Clou” bracelet
CrimeJun 25, 2025
Customs Nabs Another Big Shipment of Fake Cartier, Van Cleef Jewelry

Agents seized 2,193 pieces, a mix of counterfeit Cartier “Love” and “Juste Un Clou” bracelets, and Van Cleef & Arpels’ “Alhambra” design.

Karine Choudhrie Big Splash Circus Starfish and Lantern Fish
CollectionsJun 25, 2025
Splash into Karina Choudhrie’s Collection of Underwater Circus Performers

The designer brought her children’s book, “The Big Splash Circus,” to life through a collection of playful fine jewelry characters.

Jewelers of America
Events & AwardsJun 25, 2025
JA Announces Impact Initiative Fund Recipients

The trade association has chosen the recipients of the funding initiative it formed to foster the growth and sustainability of the industry.

John Dyer Montana Sun Sapphire
SourcingJun 25, 2025
2025 AGTA Spectrum Awards Open for Entries

The organization has also announced this year’s slate of judges.

Khepri Jewels Luna collection fancy color fringe multi-shape drop diamond earrings
EditorsJun 24, 2025
The Best New Jewelry from Couture 2025, Part 2

Associate Editor Natalie Francisco shares 20 additional pieces that stood out to her at the Couture show.

Lori Tucker
IndependentsJun 24, 2025
Colorado Bench Jeweler Celebrates 50 Years With Local Retailer

Lori Tucker started at Williams Jewelers when she was 18 years old.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy