On Data: Here’s How Independent Jewelers Did in 2022
Sherry Smith breaks down retailers’ performance last year, including how natural diamonds fared vs. lab-grown.

Gross sales finished flat with independent jewelers. The momentum from the COVID economy (good for our business, less so for other luxury) parlayed into strong first and second quarters.
A more challenging environment settled in at the end of the second quarter, when a shortfall in unit sales (usually a good proxy for declining foot traffic) chipped away at gains made in the first half of the year.
Overall gross sales were down only 1/10 of 1 percent (basically flat) when compared with 2021, while units sold slipped 5 percent year-over-year in 2022.
Despite declines in some key performance indicators, the average retail sale ended the year up 6 percent.
One can speculate about why—the rising price of diamonds, fluctuations in metal pricing, economic climate, inflation, etc.—but the average retail sale has continued its four-year upward trajectory.
Gross profit dollars in 2022 were down 2 percent, potentially a result of some creative pricing practices in the fourth quarter.
The positive results in 2022 did not play out evenly across all categories, however.
“While lab-grown loose [diamonds are] growing in market share, [they are] still a small percentage of the market when compared with natural loose diamond sales.” — Sherry Smith
For example, all loose diamonds had consistent declines through the fourth quarter with gross sales down 21 percent in October and November, and down 20 percent in December.
Only the strength of H1 sales kept overall declines at 6 percent for the full year.
The picture for natural diamonds versus lab-grown diamonds was vastly different.
Natural loose diamonds were up 1.3 percent in gross sales for 2022, while gross sales of lab-grown loose diamonds grew a robust 45 percent.
Both natural diamonds and lab-grown diamonds were down in units sold, 7 percent and 9 percent respectively.
It’s also important to note that while lab-grown loose is growing in market share, it still comprises a small percentage of the market when compared with natural loose diamond sales in the independent channel.
Semi-mounts were down 7 percent in gross sales for the year after a challenging fourth quarter. Gross sales in the category dropped 22 percent in October, 13 percent in November, and 15 percent in December.
Semi-mounts were also down 10 percent in total units sold, but up 4 percent in average retail sale when compared with 2021.
Complete diamond engagement rings experienced similar results, showing declines in gross sales in October (down 19 percent), November (down 19 percent), and December (down 16 percent).
For the full year, independent jewelers recorded a 9 percent drop in gross sales of complete diamond engagement rings and a 14 percent decline in units sold, but a 7 percent increase in average retail sale.
The watch category continued to do well in 2022, showing a 3 percent increase in gross sales and an 8 percent increase in average retail sale. Watches were only 0.5 percent down in units sold, with margins holding steady.
The colored stones and pearl categories were up 2 percent in gross sales, down 6 percent in units sold and up 9 percent in average retail sale when compared with 2021.
Gross sales of jewelry in the precious metals without stones category rose 3 percent in gross sales but fell 3 percent in units sold. The average retail sale was up 6 percent for the year.
Sterling silver and alternative metals declined 7 percent in gross sales and 12 percent in units sold; however, the average retail sale was up 6 percent.
Services were up in all key performance indicators—9 percent in gross sales, 1 percent in units sold, 9 percent in gross profit and 8 percent in average retail sale.
I have read numerous articles about what to expect in 2023 and two common themes stand out.
First, retailers should focus on customer retention and second, improve the customer experience. This makes so much sense when you look at the statistics.
Many companies state that 65-75 percent of their business comes from existing customers, with many sources reporting that repeat customers spend an average of 67 percent more than new customers.
According to a 2021 study on personalization, 60 percent of consumers are more likely to become repeat customers after a personalized shopping experience.
While we may need to work harder for the customers’ business in 2023, customers continue to demonstrate an appetite to buy, even as we’ve seen a small decrease in discretionary spending.
The Latest

Two Saks Fifth Avenue locations, one in Florida and one in California, and one Neiman Marcus store are off the chopping block.

West, who started in the art department at the Leading Jewelers Guild in 1979, is remembered for his patience, kindness, and dedication.

In the “Tesoro” version of the ring, our Piece of the Week, each side of the gold hexagonal nugget has a unique colored gemstone design.

You deserve to know what you are selling–to protect your customers as well as your business and your reputation.

Cohen discusses the evolution of Citizen’s light-powered technology, the brand’s cross-generational appeal, and tariffs.


“Essentially Human: On Sales and Salespeople" reveals the underlying human traits and behaviors of the most successful sales professionals.

The collection features symbols of love, luck, and light, based on the story of Queen Cassandane and Cyrus the Great of Persia.

Every jeweler faces the same challenge: helping customers protect what they love. Here’s the solution designed for today’s jewelry business.

It’s the third scholarship to be launched as part of the partnership to help appraisers advance their professional credentials.

The deadline for entries in the jewelry design competition has been extended to April 3.

After 28 years with JCK, the veteran industry journalist is launching his own publication on Substack called The Jewelry Wire.

Wiley said the project will give scientists worldwide access to the American Museum of Natural’s History renowned mineral collection.

The “Flower Puff” collection looks to beaded flower friendship bracelets from childhood, turning the silhouette into nostalgic fine jewelry.

Set for April 2, the webinar will discuss how the jewelry industry can address the workforce gap.

Bayer, founder of Lisa Bayer Designs, is remembered as “a bright light in every room.”

The highest-grossing lot was a Tiffany & Co. ring set with a flawless, emerald-cut diamond of 10 carats.

The next three editions of AGTA GemFair Tucson will feature a five-day show that includes Sunday.

Former Sotheby’s executive Tom Heap has taken on the London-based role.

The group of women allegedly robbed two Catbird stores and one Gorjana location on the afternoon of March 9.

Movado CEO Efraim Grinberg noted continued strength in the fashion watch and accessible luxury segments in the U.S.

After celebrating 25 years in 2025, the campaign marks a new chapter for the jewelry brand with the message that “Identity Creates Value.”

Couture and Time to Watches announced the watch brands, from big names to independents, attendees will see at the show.

Plus, why Saks Global’s bankruptcy may have given Bloomingdale’s an edge.

The flawless, Type IIa stone is estimated to achieve up to $2.8 million at the auction house’s high jewelry sale in April.

Costume designer Kate Hawley wore three archival Tiffany & Co. brooches, our Pieces of the Week, while accepting her first Oscar.

The jewelry retailer announced changes to its store network and brand portfolio during its fourth-quarter earnings call.

From a weaker labor market to inflation, NRF Chief Economist Mark Mathews gave insight on what retailers can expect this year.























