ColumnistsJun 03, 2026
Peter Smith: When Top Talent Leaves and What It Says About YouSmith discusses how managers should handle a top performer's exit, warning that a poor response could have a lasting impact.
TrendsMar 16, 2022
Design Innovation: The Way Forward for Indian Jewelry Manufacturers
Creativity and design thinking help these jewelry manufacturers turn problems into opportunities.
While the prices of yellow diamonds are comparable to their white counterparts, some of the pink diamonds command 10x premium. Image courtesy: P Hirani
Aesthetics and craftsmanship are at the core of jewelry making. The emphasis among manufacturers has therefore been on designing products. In design thinking, the emphasis shifts to thinking and problem solving. It is about creating a holistic experience encompassing the entire business ecosystem that includes the product, the processes and the service.
Fine Jewellery Manufacturing Limited specializes in fashion and basic jewelry from 10 cents (and below) to a $250 to $1,000 price range. With the recent increase in diamond prices, logistics and freight, the cost of doing business has gone up substantially.
Budget conscious consumers while shopping are flexible to a point. They may upgrade within a range of $500 to $999 but are unwilling to go beyond $1,000.
“The products priced at $999 have now gone up to $1,200” says Sohil Kothari, Chairman Fine Jewelry. “Launching new products below $999 is the new imperative for us. Creative reverse engineering process and innovative diamond setting techniques such as illusion and floating diamonds have helped us launch products with fewer diamonds and less gold without compromising on their look and finish.”
Renaissance Global Ltd (RGL), a traditional OEM jewelry manufacturer has explored alternatives to boost their revenue and profits. They entered into licensing agreements with Hallmark, Enchanted Disney and Star Wars for supplying fine jewelry to retailers in the U.S., U.K. and Canada. Licensing deals gave them a foothold in the high margin branded jewelry space. During the pandemic, when the whole industry was reeling under pressure to stay afloat, RGL leveraged this time to strengthen its direct-to-consumer segment and embark on the brand’s next phase of growth by launching five direct-to-consumer websites.
RGL’s investment in the latest technologies and design talent pool of 150 designers is their competitive advantage. The company designs and manufactures for specialty retailers such as Fred Meyers, Helzberg Diamonds, Signet and department store chains like JCPenney, Walmart and Macy’s.
An expertise in global fashion trends to craft over 1,000 unique designs per month has helped RGL consolidate its presence in the licensing business. All designs for the licensed brands are conceptualized, manufactured and exclusively distributed by adhering to the licensors’ guidelines.
Maleficent Villain Ring: The purple and black combination of this ring accurately displays the villain’s fiery character and dark majesty.
Sumit Shah, Non-Executive Chairman and Global CEO of RGL said, “The Enchanted Disney fine jewelry collections are a rage among consumers and the Villain collection is the fastest moving.
“Consumers are spoiled by choice; they seek products that connect emotionally and aesthetically with them. This unique collection is inspired by the drama, magic and mystery of Disney’s most glamorous villains. The dark Maleficent ring with a mysterious bloom carries many meanings. The black rose in the Maleficent Disney Villain ring stands for rebirth and new beginnings.
“Our innovations not only enhance production and manufacturing but also the overall consumer experience. With our recent custom-made, on-demand jewelry on our D2C platforms, customers can create their own digital design using the available tools on the company’s portal while sitting at home. Our forthcoming collaborative initiative with a European company will prove to be a game changer in customization.”
At higher prices the demand for jewelry is relatively inelastic. Featured here is a ring from Awesome Sparklers’ Rose collection.
Priti Bhatia, owner of Awesome Sparklers is a first generation diamond jewelry designer and manufacturer from Surat. A regular visitor to the JCK and Couture shows, Priti says, “These shows helped me understand the market, network, and forge relationships with independent single-store jewelers in New York and New Jersey. At higher price points, the demand for jewelry is relatively inelastic. Consumers have rediscovered the value of diamonds during the pandemic. They want to buy and gift the best diamond jewelry. The response to our rose collection has given us the confidence to exhibit at the JCK show this year,” says Priti.
Darshit Hirani’s company, P Hirani specializes in fancy-colored diamonds and jewelry and will make its debut at the 2022 Couture show. Sourcing of rare diamonds in the right color and size – in adequate quantities – is their competitive advantage. Yellow diamonds are abundantly available and therefore, their prices are comparable to whites. Some of the pink and blue diamonds command 10x premium over whites. Red diamonds can cost between $3 million to $5 million per carat. Such is the rarity of red that you are lucky to get even one stone in a year.
Manufacturing jewelry is a different ball game as you need a long-term vision, patience and surplus funds to invest. The traditional approach of thematic jewelry designing doesn’t work for colored diamond jewelry as the desired calibration and specification may not be available. One has to design on the basis of the diamonds available at a given point in time.
Manufacturing jewelry is a different ball game as you need a long-term vision, patience and surplus funds to invest. The traditional approach of thematic jewelry designing doesn’t work for colored diamond jewelry as the desired calibration and specification may not be available. One has to design on the basis of the diamonds available at a given point in time.
“This value based, high margin business has lower stock turns where a retailer may even have to wait for four years to get a buyer. We are fully geared up for the demanding U.S. market with a flexible collaborative mindset and adequate inventory,” says Darshit confidently.
Note: This story was completed for publication in the special India Diamond Report newsletter prior to Russia’s invasion of Ukraine and the U.S.’s subsequent ban on Russian diamonds on March 11.
Note: This story was completed for publication in the special India Diamond Report newsletter prior to Russia’s invasion of Ukraine and the U.S.’s subsequent ban on Russian diamonds on March 11.
More on Trends
The Latest
GradingJun 03, 2026
GIA’s Tracr Investment Is First Step Toward Industry-Owned PlatformThe Gemological Institute of America is now a 30 percent stakeholder in Tracr, the De Beers-backed blockchain for diamonds.
WatchesJun 03, 2026
The 1916 Company Taking Pre-Owned Rolexes on the Road, AgainThe retailer is bringing Rolex Certified Pre-Owned watches to five U.S. cities in 2026 for collectors to see, try on, and purchase.
Brought to you by
All Eyes on Gold Prices. Alternatives to Look For. And What to BEWARE of in VegasAs gold prices rise, today’s retailers are looking for alternatives at prices that will appeal to wider audiences.
IndependentsJun 03, 2026
Jessica Alba Is the New Face of Gabriel & Co.The actress and entrepreneur stars in the jeweler’s new campaign that celebrates life’s quiet moments.
Weekly QuizMay 28, 2026
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
FinancialsJun 02, 2026
Signet Jewelers’ Q1 Sales Up 2% As It Focuses on ‘Core Four’ The jewelry retailer is zeroing in on Zales, Jared, Kay Jewelers, and Blue Nile as it looks to create unique brand identities for each.
SourcingJun 02, 2026
Leader Appointed for Botswana’s Diamonds for Development Fund Dr. Akinwumi Adesina, a development economist, will head the fund created to help Botswana diversify its economy.
Brought to you by
How Modern Training Is Becoming a Competitive Advantage for Jewelry RetailersWith the trade and customer trust in mind, GIA® developed NextGem™ – on-demand training designed specifically for retail.
WatchesJun 02, 2026
Watch Industry Veteran James Marks Joins Sotheby’sSotheby’s has appointed the former Phillips executive as its global head of private sales and retail in its watches division.
AuctionsJun 02, 2026
Sotheby’s to Auction 10-Carat Blue Diamond, 1960s Harry Winston Necklace A private collection of five Paraíba tourmalines also will be up for sale at Sotheby’s High Jewelry auction in New York, scheduled for June 16.
IndependentsJun 02, 2026
State of Retail: 6 Things Retailers Should Know About Consumers TodayFrom Gen Z’s view of luxury to “doom spending,” these are the six consumer trends to note this year.
Events & AwardsJun 01, 2026
Design Atelier Brands Have a Big Night at Emotional Couture Design AwardsThe show started by honoring Mildred Marcano, ended with a tearful Beth Anne Bonanno, and recognized a dozen-plus designers in between.
SourcingJun 01, 2026
RapNet Rebranding as Rapaport TradeThe revamped online diamond marketplace will feature pricing intelligence and data-driven tools for more efficient buying and selling.
SourcingJun 01, 2026
Gemfields’ Higher-Quality Emerald Auction Achieves $26.8MThe miner said demand for higher-quality emeralds is stable, but there is notable caution in the market.
CollectionsMay 29, 2026
Cultus Artem’s Necklace Is the Oasis in Las Vegas’ DesertThe “River of Heaven” necklace, our Piece of the Week debuting at Couture, combines 26 salt and pepper diamonds spaced by Tahitian pearls.
IndependentsMay 29, 2026
Meet the 2026 Retailer Hall of Fame InducteesThis year’s inductees include second-, third-, and fourth-generation jewelers.
Events & AwardsMay 28, 2026
JCK Announces Jesse Itzler as 2026 Keynote SpeakerThe author, speaker, and entrepreneur will give his presentation, “Spiritual Billionaire,” on Saturday morning.
Events & AwardsMay 28, 2026
JCK Rocks To Ride With NellyThree-time Grammy award-winning artist Nelly is set to perform at the annual event at Tao Beach on Sunday night.
MajorsMay 28, 2026
Signet Jewelers to Buy The Clear Cut Signet will integrate the online-only, natural diamond-focused jeweler into Blue Nile, which it wants to position as a higher-end retailer.
CollectionsMay 28, 2026
Meet The 17 Newcomers to Couture’s Design AtelierThese up-and-coming jewelry brands are bringing their distinct aesthetic and unique point-of-view to the Design Atelier for the first time.
GradingMay 28, 2026
GCAL By Sarine Launches 8X Cushion CutThe lab’s proprietary diamond cut grade has been expanded to include the popular fancy shape.
Events & AwardsMay 27, 2026
5 Security Tips for Las Vegas Jewelry Market Week 2026This year, it’s what could happen outside of show hours that worries JSA Executive Vice President Scott Guginsky.
ColumnistsMay 27, 2026
What Jewelers Can Learn From Luxury Fashion’s Digital PlaybookHigh-end fashion houses know how to emotionally connect with customers online. Retail jewelers should take note, Emmanuel Raheb writes.
Events & AwardsMay 27, 2026
Couture’s ‘The Iridescence’ Will Showcase 7 Emerging Jewelry DesignersThe designers are the third cohort of mentees from the show’s Belonging @ Couture mentorship program.
ColumnistsMay 26, 2026
The Key Mindset for Better Trade Show BuyingBuying discipline at trade shows starts with clarity about your inventory levels, Smith writes.
Events & AwardsMay 26, 2026
12 JCK Talks Sessions to Add to Your Las Vegas ScheduleThe trade show’s education series returns, with sessions on retail trends, AI, watches, marketing, corporate responsibility, and more.
Events & AwardsMay 26, 2026
CBG Brings Its Curated Designer Project to Las Vegas ShowThe Curated Designer Project has expanded to highlight eight independent jewelry designers during CBG’s Las Vegas show.
