GradingMay 26, 2023
State of the Diamond Industry: AI and the Future of Diamond GradingGemologists have long used machines in diamond grading but technology has made it possible for them to “learn” how to do it on their own.
TrendsMar 16, 2022
Design Innovation: The Way Forward for Indian Jewelry Manufacturers
Creativity and design thinking help these jewelry manufacturers turn problems into opportunities.
While the prices of yellow diamonds are comparable to their white counterparts, some of the pink diamonds command 10x premium. Image courtesy: P Hirani
Aesthetics and craftsmanship are at the core of jewelry making. The emphasis among manufacturers has therefore been on designing products. In design thinking, the emphasis shifts to thinking and problem solving. It is about creating a holistic experience encompassing the entire business ecosystem that includes the product, the processes and the service.
Fine Jewellery Manufacturing Limited specializes in fashion and basic jewelry from 10 cents (and below) to a $250 to $1,000 price range. With the recent increase in diamond prices, logistics and freight, the cost of doing business has gone up substantially.
Budget conscious consumers while shopping are flexible to a point. They may upgrade within a range of $500 to $999 but are unwilling to go beyond $1,000.
“The products priced at $999 have now gone up to $1,200” says Sohil Kothari, Chairman Fine Jewelry. “Launching new products below $999 is the new imperative for us. Creative reverse engineering process and innovative diamond setting techniques such as illusion and floating diamonds have helped us launch products with fewer diamonds and less gold without compromising on their look and finish.”
Renaissance Global Ltd (RGL), a traditional OEM jewelry manufacturer has explored alternatives to boost their revenue and profits. They entered into licensing agreements with Hallmark, Enchanted Disney and Star Wars for supplying fine jewelry to retailers in the U.S., U.K. and Canada. Licensing deals gave them a foothold in the high margin branded jewelry space. During the pandemic, when the whole industry was reeling under pressure to stay afloat, RGL leveraged this time to strengthen its direct-to-consumer segment and embark on the brand’s next phase of growth by launching five direct-to-consumer websites.
RGL’s investment in the latest technologies and design talent pool of 150 designers is their competitive advantage. The company designs and manufactures for specialty retailers such as Fred Meyers, Helzberg Diamonds, Signet and department store chains like JCPenney, Walmart and Macy’s.
An expertise in global fashion trends to craft over 1,000 unique designs per month has helped RGL consolidate its presence in the licensing business. All designs for the licensed brands are conceptualized, manufactured and exclusively distributed by adhering to the licensors’ guidelines.
Priti Bhatia, owner of Awesome Sparklers is a first generation diamond jewelry designer and manufacturer from Surat. A regular visitor to the JCK and Couture shows, Priti says, “These shows helped me understand the market, network, and forge relationships with independent single-store jewelers in New York and New Jersey. At higher price points, the demand for jewelry is relatively inelastic. Consumers have rediscovered the value of diamonds during the pandemic. They want to buy and gift the best diamond jewelry. The response to our rose collection has given us the confidence to exhibit at the JCK show this year,” says Priti.
Darshit Hirani’s company, P Hirani specializes in fancy-colored diamonds and jewelry and will make its debut at the 2022 Couture show. Sourcing of rare diamonds in the right color and size – in adequate quantities – is their competitive advantage. Yellow diamonds are abundantly available and therefore, their prices are comparable to whites. Some of the pink and blue diamonds command 10x premium over whites. Red diamonds can cost between $3 million to $5 million per carat. Such is the rarity of red that you are lucky to get even one stone in a year.
Manufacturing jewelry is a different ball game as you need a long-term vision, patience and surplus funds to invest. The traditional approach of thematic jewelry designing doesn’t work for colored diamond jewelry as the desired calibration and specification may not be available. One has to design on the basis of the diamonds available at a given point in time.
Manufacturing jewelry is a different ball game as you need a long-term vision, patience and surplus funds to invest. The traditional approach of thematic jewelry designing doesn’t work for colored diamond jewelry as the desired calibration and specification may not be available. One has to design on the basis of the diamonds available at a given point in time.
“This value based, high margin business has lower stock turns where a retailer may even have to wait for four years to get a buyer. We are fully geared up for the demanding U.S. market with a flexible collaborative mindset and adequate inventory,” says Darshit confidently.
Note: This story was completed for publication in the special India Diamond Report newsletter prior to Russia’s invasion of Ukraine and the U.S.’s subsequent ban on Russian diamonds on March 11.
Note: This story was completed for publication in the special India Diamond Report newsletter prior to Russia’s invasion of Ukraine and the U.S.’s subsequent ban on Russian diamonds on March 11.
More on Trends
The Latest
Recorded WebinarsMay 26, 2023
Watch: Diamond Cut Quality: The Final Frontier Part 2Supplier Spotlight Sponsored by IGI
Recorded WebinarsMay 26, 2023
Natural and Lab-Grown Diamonds: What It’s Like to Sell Both Watch retailers Jeffery Bolling and Bobby Bengivengo discuss employee training, customer education and the sticky subject of future value.
Brought to you by
The Next Step for GIA Diamond ReportsThe most trusted diamond report, available in print or the GIA App.
FinancialsMay 26, 2023
Movado Sales Slip in Q1 Amid Inflation Woes, Tough CompsThe company has plans to revamp the Movado brand and offer less expensive watches this year.
Weekly QuizMay 25, 2023
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge with this short test.
AuctionsMay 26, 2023
Piece of the Week: A Bulgari Sapphire and Diamond NecklaceSet with a 118-carat unheated Sri Lankan sapphire, it just sold for $3.4 million at Phillips jewelry auction in Hong Kong.
Supplier BulletinMay 25, 2023
RAE Fine Jewelry Collection Debuting at JCK Luxury 2023Sponsored by Noam Carver
Brought to you by
Beyond Borders: Crucial Factors in Colored Stone Origin DeterminationNavigate origin determination with Continuing Education seminars offered by the GIA Alumni Collective™.
TechnologyMay 25, 2023
State of Retail: Why Jewelers Need to Invest in Cybersecurity NowAs cybercrime incidents threaten the industry, jewelers need to know what they’re up against and the best ways to protect their businesses.
IndependentsMay 25, 2023
Louis Anthony Jewelers Is Remodeling and ExpandingThe Pittsburgh jeweler is redoing the lighting and showcases, and adding a full hospitality bar as well as new shop-in-shops.
SourcingMay 25, 2023
David Yurman Unveils Quartz Exhibition at AMNH The Yurman Family Crystalline Pass is inside the museum’s brand-new Richard Gilder Center.
MajorsMay 25, 2023
Stanley Zale Joins Hill & Co. as Principal Consultant Zale has more than 40 years’ experience in the diamond industry, including 17 years as Stuller’s VP of diamonds and gemstones procurement.
Events & AwardsMay 24, 2023
New To-Dos in Las Vegas During Jewelry Market Week 2023The Strip is full of new restaurant and entertainment offerings.
EditorsMay 24, 2023
How Jewelers Can Make the Most of ChatGPTFrom what ChatGPT is to how to use it, this is the explainer tailored to jewelers.
AuctionsMay 23, 2023
Christie’s to Auction 127-Carat ‘Light of Peace’ DiamondThe D-color, internally flawless, Type IIa stone will be offered without reserve.
ColumnistsMay 23, 2023
Squirrel Spotting: The Case of the Pricey Repair When it comes to pricing jewelry repairs, you should start by asking a simple question about the piece at hand, Peter Smith writes.
IndependentsMay 23, 2023
Pat Henneberry Joins VeerThe industry veteran will serve as the diamond jewelry supplier’s head of business development.
MajorsMay 23, 2023
Bruce Rubin Joins Frederick GoldmanHe is the company’s new senior vice president of sales and business development.
MajorsMay 23, 2023
New Approach School for Jewelers Announces Gemvision PartnershipThe Tennessee school’s CAD Academy is now offering training in Gemvision’s MatrixGold software.
GradingMay 22, 2023
Blackstone Officially Inks Deal to Acquire IGIBlackstone is buying the 80 percent stake in the lab owned by a Chinese company as well as the 20 percent held by the Lorie family.
SourcingMay 22, 2023
State of the Colored Stone Market: Dropping Some Valuable GemsIn a collection of Q&As, key players give insight on supply, demand, the importance of origin, and whether the “Color of the Year” matters.
SourcingMay 22, 2023
De Beers Consolidates Auctions as Diamond Sales Lose Steam The company confirmed it will be combining the auctions for the fifth and sixth sales cycles into one.
MajorsMay 22, 2023
Stuller Promotes Four Employees Amid Organizational UpdateAmong other changes, Stanley Zale, the former vice president of diamonds and gemstones, is leaving the company after 17 years.
MajorsMay 22, 2023
AGS Confirms Members of 2023-2024 Board of DirectorsOne new addition was announced at the Conclave membership breakfast.
AuctionsMay 19, 2023
It’s a White-Glove Sale for JAR Jewels at Christie’sThe 28-piece collection is the largest to be offered at auction.
GradingMay 19, 2023
Report: Blackstone to Buy IGI for Up to $550MThe deal could be signed as early as this weekend, according to a report by The Economic Times.
CollectionsMay 19, 2023
Piece of the Week: Marie Lichtenberg’s ‘Check’ LocketIt’s an ultra-luxurious version of the designer’s signature style.
