Trends

Design Innovation: The Way Forward for Indian Jewelry Manufacturers

TrendsMar 16, 2022

Design Innovation: The Way Forward for Indian Jewelry Manufacturers

Creativity and design thinking help these jewelry manufacturers turn problems into opportunities.

20220302_ Pink-&-yellow-twins.jpg
While the prices of yellow diamonds are comparable to their white counterparts, some of the pink diamonds command 10x premium. Image courtesy: P Hirani
Aesthetics and craftsmanship are at the core of jewelry making. The emphasis among manufacturers has therefore been on designing products. In design thinking, the emphasis shifts to thinking and problem solving. It is about creating a holistic experience encompassing the entire business ecosystem that includes the product, the processes and the service.
 
Fine Jewellery Manufacturing Limited specializes in fashion and basic jewelry from 10 cents (and below) to a $250 to $1,000 price range. With the recent increase in diamond prices, logistics and freight, the cost of doing business has gone up substantially. 
 
Budget conscious consumers while shopping are flexible to a point. They may upgrade within a range of $500 to $999 but are unwilling to go beyond $1,000.
 
“The products priced at $999 have now gone up to $1,200” says Sohil Kothari, Chairman Fine Jewelry. “Launching new products below $999 is the new imperative for us. Creative reverse engineering process and innovative diamond setting techniques such as illusion and floating diamonds have helped us launch products with fewer diamonds and less gold without compromising on their look and finish.”
 
Renaissance Global Ltd (RGL), a traditional OEM jewelry manufacturer has explored alternatives to boost their revenue and profits. They entered into licensing agreements with Hallmark, Enchanted Disney and Star Wars for supplying fine jewelry to retailers in the U.S., U.K. and Canada. Licensing deals gave them a foothold in the high margin branded jewelry space. During the pandemic, when the whole industry was reeling under pressure to stay afloat, RGL leveraged this time to strengthen its direct-to-consumer segment and embark on the brand’s next phase of growth by launching five direct-to-consumer websites.
  1. Enchanted Disney Fine Jewelry
  2. Star Wars Fine Jewelry
  3. Hallmark Fine Jewelry
  4. Made For You
  5. Jewelili
RGL’s investment in the latest technologies and design talent pool of 150 designers is their competitive advantage. The company designs and manufactures for specialty retailers such as Fred Meyers, Helzberg Diamonds, Signet and department store chains like JCPenney, Walmart and Macy’s.
 
An expertise in global fashion trends to craft over 1,000 unique designs per month has helped RGL consolidate its presence in the licensing business. All designs for the licensed brands are conceptualized, manufactured and exclusively distributed by adhering to the licensors’ guidelines.
 

20220302_RGL Villian ring..jpg
Maleficent Villain Ring: The purple and black combination of this ring accurately displays the villain’s fiery character and dark majesty.
 
Sumit Shah, Non-Executive Chairman and Global CEO of RGL said, “The Enchanted Disney fine jewelry collections are a rage among consumers and the Villain collection is the fastest moving. 
 
“Consumers are spoiled by choice; they seek products that connect emotionally and aesthetically with them. This unique collection is inspired by the drama, magic and mystery of Disney’s most glamorous villains. The dark Maleficent ring with a mysterious bloom carries many meanings. The black rose in the Maleficent Disney Villain ring stands for rebirth and new beginnings.
 
“Our innovations not only enhance production and manufacturing but also the overall consumer experience. With our recent custom-made, on-demand jewelry on our D2C platforms, customers can create their own digital design using the available tools on the company’s portal while sitting at home. Our forthcoming collaborative initiative with a European company will prove to be a game changer in customization.”

20220302_Rose.jpg
At higher prices the demand for jewelry is relatively inelastic. Featured here is a ring from Awesome Sparklers’ Rose collection.


Priti Bhatia, owner of Awesome Sparklers is a first generation diamond jewelry designer and manufacturer from Surat. A regular visitor to the JCK and Couture shows, Priti says, “These shows helped me understand the market, network, and forge relationships with independent single-store jewelers in New York and New Jersey. At higher price points, the demand for jewelry is relatively inelastic. Consumers have rediscovered the value of diamonds during the pandemic. They want to buy and gift the best diamond jewelry. The response to our rose collection has given us the confidence to exhibit at the JCK show this year,” says Priti. 
 
Darshit Hirani’s company, P Hirani specializes in fancy-colored diamonds and jewelry and will make its debut at the 2022 Couture show. Sourcing of rare diamonds in the right color and size – in adequate quantities – is their competitive advantage. Yellow diamonds are abundantly available and therefore, their prices are comparable to whites. Some of the pink and blue diamonds command 10x premium over whites. Red diamonds can cost between $3 million to $5 million per carat. Such is the rarity of red that you are lucky to get even one stone in a year. 

Manufacturing jewelry is a different ball game as you need a long-term vision, patience and surplus funds to invest. The traditional approach of thematic jewelry designing doesn’t work for colored diamond jewelry as the desired calibration and specification may not be available. One has to design on the basis of the diamonds available at a given point in time. 
 
“This value based, high margin business has lower stock turns where a retailer may even have to wait for four years to get a buyer. We are fully geared up for the demanding U.S. market with a flexible collaborative mindset and adequate inventory,” says Darshit confidently.

Note: This story was completed for publication in the special India Diamond Report newsletter prior to Russia’s invasion of Ukraine and the U.S.’s subsequent ban on Russian diamonds on March 11.
Anil PrabhakarAnil Prabhakar is an industry analyst, journalist and consultant associated with the Jewelry and watch industries.

The Latest

 Sapphire tennis necklace
EditorsNov 07, 2025
Piece of the Week: An MVP’s Sapphire Tennis Necklace

At the 2025 World Series, the Los Angeles Dodgers’ Yoshinobu Yamamoto sported a custom necklace made by California retailer Happy Jewelers.

Foundrae Palm Beach Location Exterior and Founder Beth Hutchens
IndependentsNov 07, 2025
Foundrae’s New Palm Beach Location Is a ‘Golden Solarium’

The brand’s seventh location combines Foundrae’s symbolic vocabulary with motifs from Florida’s natural surroundings.

Watches of Switzerland Mall of America store
FinancialsNov 07, 2025
Watches of Switzerland’s H1 Sales Up 8%

The retailer also shared an update on the impact of tariffs on watch customers.

20-Under-40-2025-LV.png
Brought to you by
Jewelers of America Aligns New Mission to Create Meaningful Impact for Members

From educational programs, advocacy, and recent MJSA affiliation, Jewelers of America drives progress that elevates businesses of all sizes.

AGTA Spectrum winners
SourcingNov 06, 2025
Pink Tourmaline Bracelet, Emerald Suite Take Top Spectrum Honors

Pink and purple stones were popular in the AGTA’s design competition this year, as were cameos and ocean themes.

Weekly QuizNov 06, 2025
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
G. St x Jewel Boxing Raffle for City Harvest Graphic
IndependentsNov 06, 2025
Greenwich St. Jewelers Hosts Raffle Supporting Food Rescue

All proceeds from the G. St x Jewel Boxing raffle will go to City Harvest, which works to end hunger in New York City.

Courtney Cornell
IndependentsNov 06, 2025
Cornell’s Jewelers Names New President

Courtney Cornell is part of the third generation to lead the Rochester, New York-based jeweler.

Supplier Spotlight -Recorded-Webinar.png
Brought to you by
Watch: Introducing GIA Jewelry Services

Supplier Spotlight Sponsored by GIA

Trucks at Orapa diamond mine
SourcingNov 06, 2025
De Beers’ Production, Sales Increase in Q3

De Beers also announced more changes in its upper ranks ahead of parent company Anglo American’s pending sale of the company.

Ulrich Wohn
WatchesNov 05, 2025
Shinola President Steps Down Just as He Starts

Former Signet CEO Mark Light will remain president of Shinola until a replacement for Ulrich Wohn is found.

Artifex White Diamond, Fancy Dark Yellowish Brown Diamond, and Blue Sapphire Rings
AuctionsNov 05, 2025
Taylor Swift’s Engagement Ring Designer Makes Her Auction Debut

Kindred Lubeck of Artifex has three rings she designed with Anup Jogani in Sotheby’s upcoming Gem Drop sale.

Tyla Pandora Talisman collection
FinancialsNov 05, 2025
Pandora Posts Modest Q3 Sales Growth Amid ‘Weak’ Consumer Sentiment

The company focused on marketing in the third quarter and introduced two new charm collections, “Pandora Talisman” and “Pandora Minis.”

Brilliant Earth Jane Goodall Peace Medallion
FinancialsNov 05, 2025
Brilliant Earth’s Q3 Sales Climb 10%

The jewelry retailer raised its full-year guidance, with CFO Jeff Kuo describing the company as “very well positioned” for the holidays.

US Supreme Court
Policies & IssuesNov 04, 2025
Supreme Court to Hear Tariffs Case Wednesday

Ahead of the hearing, two industry organizations co-signed an amicus brief urging the court to declare Trump’s tariffs unlawful.

Stuller Inc.’s Danny Clark, Matt Stuller, and Belit Myers
MajorsNov 04, 2025
Danny Clark to Become Stuller CEO, Succeeding Matt Stuller

Stuller COO Belit Myers will take on the additional role of president, with all changes effective at the start of 2026.

Headshot of National Jeweler columnist Peter Smith
ColumnistsNov 04, 2025
Peter Smith: What Do Birds Have to Do With the Price of Gold?

Smith cautions retailers against expending too much energy on things they can’t control, like the rising price of gold.

Weston Jewelers Fort Lauderdale store rendering
IndependentsNov 04, 2025
Weston Jewelers Heads to Fort Lauderdale

The family-owned jeweler will open its fourth store in Florida in late 2027.

Two of the three suspects in burglary at Queens jeweler’s home
CrimeNov 03, 2025
Men Dressed as Construction Workers Burglarize Jeweler’s Home

The NYPD is looking for three men who stole a safe and jewelry valued at $3.2 million from the home of a jeweler in Jamaica Hills, Queens.

Matthew Rosenheim
MajorsNov 03, 2025
Matthew Rosenheim Takes Over as JA Board Chair

The trade organization also announced its executive committee and five new directors.

Muse’s Have a Heart x Diamonds Do Good Collection on Flaviana Matata
CollectionsNov 03, 2025
Muse’s ‘Have a Heart’ Collab Returns, Now With DDG

The “Have a Heart x Diamonds Do Good” collection is championed by model and humanitarian Flaviana Matata and will benefit her foundation.

Christies Kashmir sapphire ring
AuctionsNov 03, 2025
Kashmir Sapphire Ring Tops Christie's Online Auction

The ring, set with a nearly 17-carat Kashmir cabochon sapphire, sold for $1 million.

Interpol Stolen Works of Art Database, The Louvre Museum Graphic
CrimeOct 31, 2025
5 More Arrested in Louvre Heist, Jewelry Still Missing

The suspects were rounded up in Paris and its suburbs on Wednesday night, but none of the stolen jewels were recovered with them.

My Next Question webinar graphic
Recorded WebinarsOct 31, 2025
Watch: How to Master Google Reviews for Your Business

Experts share top tips on how to encourage positive reviews and handle negative feedback.

GIA iD100® Technology
Supplier BulletinOct 30, 2025
Protect Your Customers and Your Business

Sponsored by the Gemological Institute of America

Seattle PD image of Menashe & Sons Jewelers following Aug. 14 smash-and-grab robbery
CrimeOct 30, 2025
29-Year-Old Man Charged in Multiple Seattle-Area Smash and Grabs

The suspect faces charges in the August robbery of Menashe & Sons Jewelers and is accused of committing smash and grabs at two pawn shops.

Alison Lou Lumière Fine Collection On-Model
Lab-GrownOct 30, 2025
Alison Lou’s New Collection Uses Lab-Grown Diamonds and Resin

The “Lumière Fine” collection was born from designer Alison Chemla’s interest in the transformative power of light.

Buddha Mama gold skull pave huggies
TrendsOct 30, 2025
Amanda’s Style File: A Haunted Halloween

Show off your spooky side with these 12 festive jewels.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy