MajorsMar 27, 2026
Saks Global Has Changed Its Mind About Closing These 3 StoresTwo Saks Fifth Avenue locations, one in Florida and one in California, and one Neiman Marcus store are off the chopping block.
TrendsMar 16, 2022
Design Innovation: The Way Forward for Indian Jewelry Manufacturers
Creativity and design thinking help these jewelry manufacturers turn problems into opportunities.
While the prices of yellow diamonds are comparable to their white counterparts, some of the pink diamonds command 10x premium. Image courtesy: P Hirani
Aesthetics and craftsmanship are at the core of jewelry making. The emphasis among manufacturers has therefore been on designing products. In design thinking, the emphasis shifts to thinking and problem solving. It is about creating a holistic experience encompassing the entire business ecosystem that includes the product, the processes and the service.
Fine Jewellery Manufacturing Limited specializes in fashion and basic jewelry from 10 cents (and below) to a $250 to $1,000 price range. With the recent increase in diamond prices, logistics and freight, the cost of doing business has gone up substantially.
Budget conscious consumers while shopping are flexible to a point. They may upgrade within a range of $500 to $999 but are unwilling to go beyond $1,000.
“The products priced at $999 have now gone up to $1,200” says Sohil Kothari, Chairman Fine Jewelry. “Launching new products below $999 is the new imperative for us. Creative reverse engineering process and innovative diamond setting techniques such as illusion and floating diamonds have helped us launch products with fewer diamonds and less gold without compromising on their look and finish.”
Renaissance Global Ltd (RGL), a traditional OEM jewelry manufacturer has explored alternatives to boost their revenue and profits. They entered into licensing agreements with Hallmark, Enchanted Disney and Star Wars for supplying fine jewelry to retailers in the U.S., U.K. and Canada. Licensing deals gave them a foothold in the high margin branded jewelry space. During the pandemic, when the whole industry was reeling under pressure to stay afloat, RGL leveraged this time to strengthen its direct-to-consumer segment and embark on the brand’s next phase of growth by launching five direct-to-consumer websites.
RGL’s investment in the latest technologies and design talent pool of 150 designers is their competitive advantage. The company designs and manufactures for specialty retailers such as Fred Meyers, Helzberg Diamonds, Signet and department store chains like JCPenney, Walmart and Macy’s.
An expertise in global fashion trends to craft over 1,000 unique designs per month has helped RGL consolidate its presence in the licensing business. All designs for the licensed brands are conceptualized, manufactured and exclusively distributed by adhering to the licensors’ guidelines.
Maleficent Villain Ring: The purple and black combination of this ring accurately displays the villain’s fiery character and dark majesty.
Sumit Shah, Non-Executive Chairman and Global CEO of RGL said, “The Enchanted Disney fine jewelry collections are a rage among consumers and the Villain collection is the fastest moving.
“Consumers are spoiled by choice; they seek products that connect emotionally and aesthetically with them. This unique collection is inspired by the drama, magic and mystery of Disney’s most glamorous villains. The dark Maleficent ring with a mysterious bloom carries many meanings. The black rose in the Maleficent Disney Villain ring stands for rebirth and new beginnings.
“Our innovations not only enhance production and manufacturing but also the overall consumer experience. With our recent custom-made, on-demand jewelry on our D2C platforms, customers can create their own digital design using the available tools on the company’s portal while sitting at home. Our forthcoming collaborative initiative with a European company will prove to be a game changer in customization.”
At higher prices the demand for jewelry is relatively inelastic. Featured here is a ring from Awesome Sparklers’ Rose collection.
Priti Bhatia, owner of Awesome Sparklers is a first generation diamond jewelry designer and manufacturer from Surat. A regular visitor to the JCK and Couture shows, Priti says, “These shows helped me understand the market, network, and forge relationships with independent single-store jewelers in New York and New Jersey. At higher price points, the demand for jewelry is relatively inelastic. Consumers have rediscovered the value of diamonds during the pandemic. They want to buy and gift the best diamond jewelry. The response to our rose collection has given us the confidence to exhibit at the JCK show this year,” says Priti.
Darshit Hirani’s company, P Hirani specializes in fancy-colored diamonds and jewelry and will make its debut at the 2022 Couture show. Sourcing of rare diamonds in the right color and size – in adequate quantities – is their competitive advantage. Yellow diamonds are abundantly available and therefore, their prices are comparable to whites. Some of the pink and blue diamonds command 10x premium over whites. Red diamonds can cost between $3 million to $5 million per carat. Such is the rarity of red that you are lucky to get even one stone in a year.
Manufacturing jewelry is a different ball game as you need a long-term vision, patience and surplus funds to invest. The traditional approach of thematic jewelry designing doesn’t work for colored diamond jewelry as the desired calibration and specification may not be available. One has to design on the basis of the diamonds available at a given point in time.
Manufacturing jewelry is a different ball game as you need a long-term vision, patience and surplus funds to invest. The traditional approach of thematic jewelry designing doesn’t work for colored diamond jewelry as the desired calibration and specification may not be available. One has to design on the basis of the diamonds available at a given point in time.
“This value based, high margin business has lower stock turns where a retailer may even have to wait for four years to get a buyer. We are fully geared up for the demanding U.S. market with a flexible collaborative mindset and adequate inventory,” says Darshit confidently.
Note: This story was completed for publication in the special India Diamond Report newsletter prior to Russia’s invasion of Ukraine and the U.S.’s subsequent ban on Russian diamonds on March 11.
Note: This story was completed for publication in the special India Diamond Report newsletter prior to Russia’s invasion of Ukraine and the U.S.’s subsequent ban on Russian diamonds on March 11.
The Latest
IndependentsMar 27, 2026
Jimmy West, Longtime LJG Executive Director, Dies at 72West, who started in the art department at the Leading Jewelers Guild in 1979, is remembered for his patience, kindness, and dedication.
CollectionsMar 27, 2026
Itä’s ‘Yarí Whirl’ Ring Tells Every Side of the StoryIn the “Tesoro” version of the ring, our Piece of the Week, each side of the gold hexagonal nugget has a unique colored gemstone design.
Brought to you by
Protect Your Customers and Your BusinessYou deserve to know what you are selling–to protect your customers as well as your business and your reputation.
WatchesMar 26, 2026
Q&A: Citizen Watch America President Jeffrey Cohen on Eco-Drive’s 50th AnniversaryCohen discusses the evolution of Citizen’s light-powered technology, the brand’s cross-generational appeal, and tariffs.
Weekly QuizMar 26, 2026
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
IndependentsMar 26, 2026
Peter Smith Pens Book on Human Behavior in Sales“Essentially Human: On Sales and Salespeople" reveals the underlying human traits and behaviors of the most successful sales professionals.
CollectionsMar 26, 2026
Lionheart Celebrates 13 Years of ‘Cassandane’The collection features symbols of love, luck, and light, based on the story of Queen Cassandane and Cyrus the Great of Persia.
Brought to you by
Is This You? Every Jeweler Has This Problem; We Have the Solution.Every jeweler faces the same challenge: helping customers protect what they love. Here’s the solution designed for today’s jewelry business.
Events & AwardsMar 26, 2026
NAJA, Instappraise Introduce New ScholarshipIt’s the third scholarship to be launched as part of the partnership to help appraisers advance their professional credentials.
Events & AwardsMar 26, 2026
JA Still Accepting Entries for 2026 CASE AwardsThe deadline for entries in the jewelry design competition has been extended to April 3.
SourcingMar 25, 2026
Rob Bates Steps Down as JCK News Director After 28 years with JCK, the veteran industry journalist is launching his own publication on Substack called The Jewelry Wire.
GradingMar 25, 2026
New York’s Natural History Museum, Wiley To Build Minerals DatabaseWiley said the project will give scientists worldwide access to the American Museum of Natural’s History renowned mineral collection.
CollectionsMar 25, 2026
Boochier Turns Flower Friendship Bracelets Into Fine JewelryThe “Flower Puff” collection looks to beaded flower friendship bracelets from childhood, turning the silhouette into nostalgic fine jewelry.
Policies & IssuesMar 25, 2026
Community for Ethical Jewelry to Host Bench Jeweler Shortage WebinarSet for April 2, the webinar will discuss how the jewelry industry can address the workforce gap.
IndependentsMar 24, 2026
Lisa Bayer, Illustrator and Beloved Member of the Muse Family, Dies at 64Bayer, founder of Lisa Bayer Designs, is remembered as “a bright light in every room.”
AuctionsMar 24, 2026
White Diamonds Shine In Christie's Jewels Online SaleThe highest-grossing lot was a Tiffany & Co. ring set with a flawless, emerald-cut diamond of 10 carats.
SourcingMar 24, 2026
AGTA Solidifies Tucson Dates For 2027-2029The next three editions of AGTA GemFair Tucson will feature a five-day show that includes Sunday.
WatchesMar 24, 2026
Christie’s Names New Senior Specialist, WatchesFormer Sotheby’s executive Tom Heap has taken on the London-based role.
CrimeMar 23, 2026
NYPD Looking for 3 Jewelry Store Robbery SuspectsThe group of women allegedly robbed two Catbird stores and one Gorjana location on the afternoon of March 9.
FinancialsMar 23, 2026
Movado’s Q4 Sales Rise As Demand Grows From Younger Shoppers, WomenMovado CEO Efraim Grinberg noted continued strength in the fashion watch and accessible luxury segments in the U.S.
Events & AwardsMar 23, 2026
These Watch Brands Are Heading to Couture This YearCouture and Time to Watches announced the watch brands, from big names to independents, attendees will see at the show.
FinancialsMar 20, 2026
Macy’s Turnaround Plans Shows Promise, Boosted by Bloomingdale’sPlus, why Saks Global’s bankruptcy may have given Bloomingdale’s an edge.
AuctionsMar 20, 2026
Sotheby's, De Beers Unveil ‘Jwaneng 28.88’ DiamondThe flawless, Type IIa stone is estimated to achieve up to $2.8 million at the auction house’s high jewelry sale in April.
FinancialsMar 19, 2026
Signet Jewelers to Close 100 Stores, Shutter James Allen BannerThe jewelry retailer announced changes to its store network and brand portfolio during its fourth-quarter earnings call.
SurveysMar 19, 2026
NRF Forecasts 4% Retail Sales Growth in 2026From a weaker labor market to inflation, NRF Chief Economist Mark Mathews gave insight on what retailers can expect this year.
AuctionsMar 19, 2026
26-Carat Diamond Tops $1M at AuctionThe historic stone, which sold at Elmwood’s in London, is the largest white diamond to be offered on the U.K. market in more than a decade.
Events & AwardsMar 19, 2026
JCK Rocks To Ride With NellyThree-time Grammy award-winning artist Nelly is set to perform at the annual event at Tao Beach in Las Vegas on May 31.
