Trends

Design Innovation: The Way Forward for Indian Jewelry Manufacturers

TrendsMar 16, 2022

Design Innovation: The Way Forward for Indian Jewelry Manufacturers

Creativity and design thinking help these jewelry manufacturers turn problems into opportunities.

20220302_ Pink-&-yellow-twins.jpg
While the prices of yellow diamonds are comparable to their white counterparts, some of the pink diamonds command 10x premium. Image courtesy: P Hirani
Aesthetics and craftsmanship are at the core of jewelry making. The emphasis among manufacturers has therefore been on designing products. In design thinking, the emphasis shifts to thinking and problem solving. It is about creating a holistic experience encompassing the entire business ecosystem that includes the product, the processes and the service.
 
Fine Jewellery Manufacturing Limited specializes in fashion and basic jewelry from 10 cents (and below) to a $250 to $1,000 price range. With the recent increase in diamond prices, logistics and freight, the cost of doing business has gone up substantially. 
 
Budget conscious consumers while shopping are flexible to a point. They may upgrade within a range of $500 to $999 but are unwilling to go beyond $1,000.
 
“The products priced at $999 have now gone up to $1,200” says Sohil Kothari, Chairman Fine Jewelry. “Launching new products below $999 is the new imperative for us. Creative reverse engineering process and innovative diamond setting techniques such as illusion and floating diamonds have helped us launch products with fewer diamonds and less gold without compromising on their look and finish.”
 
Renaissance Global Ltd (RGL), a traditional OEM jewelry manufacturer has explored alternatives to boost their revenue and profits. They entered into licensing agreements with Hallmark, Enchanted Disney and Star Wars for supplying fine jewelry to retailers in the U.S., U.K. and Canada. Licensing deals gave them a foothold in the high margin branded jewelry space. During the pandemic, when the whole industry was reeling under pressure to stay afloat, RGL leveraged this time to strengthen its direct-to-consumer segment and embark on the brand’s next phase of growth by launching five direct-to-consumer websites.
  1. Enchanted Disney Fine Jewelry
  2. Star Wars Fine Jewelry
  3. Hallmark Fine Jewelry
  4. Made For You
  5. Jewelili
RGL’s investment in the latest technologies and design talent pool of 150 designers is their competitive advantage. The company designs and manufactures for specialty retailers such as Fred Meyers, Helzberg Diamonds, Signet and department store chains like JCPenney, Walmart and Macy’s.
 
An expertise in global fashion trends to craft over 1,000 unique designs per month has helped RGL consolidate its presence in the licensing business. All designs for the licensed brands are conceptualized, manufactured and exclusively distributed by adhering to the licensors’ guidelines.
 

20220302_RGL Villian ring..jpg
Maleficent Villain Ring: The purple and black combination of this ring accurately displays the villain’s fiery character and dark majesty.
 
Sumit Shah, Non-Executive Chairman and Global CEO of RGL said, “The Enchanted Disney fine jewelry collections are a rage among consumers and the Villain collection is the fastest moving. 
 
“Consumers are spoiled by choice; they seek products that connect emotionally and aesthetically with them. This unique collection is inspired by the drama, magic and mystery of Disney’s most glamorous villains. The dark Maleficent ring with a mysterious bloom carries many meanings. The black rose in the Maleficent Disney Villain ring stands for rebirth and new beginnings.
 
“Our innovations not only enhance production and manufacturing but also the overall consumer experience. With our recent custom-made, on-demand jewelry on our D2C platforms, customers can create their own digital design using the available tools on the company’s portal while sitting at home. Our forthcoming collaborative initiative with a European company will prove to be a game changer in customization.”

20220302_Rose.jpg
At higher prices the demand for jewelry is relatively inelastic. Featured here is a ring from Awesome Sparklers’ Rose collection.


Priti Bhatia, owner of Awesome Sparklers is a first generation diamond jewelry designer and manufacturer from Surat. A regular visitor to the JCK and Couture shows, Priti says, “These shows helped me understand the market, network, and forge relationships with independent single-store jewelers in New York and New Jersey. At higher price points, the demand for jewelry is relatively inelastic. Consumers have rediscovered the value of diamonds during the pandemic. They want to buy and gift the best diamond jewelry. The response to our rose collection has given us the confidence to exhibit at the JCK show this year,” says Priti. 
 
Darshit Hirani’s company, P Hirani specializes in fancy-colored diamonds and jewelry and will make its debut at the 2022 Couture show. Sourcing of rare diamonds in the right color and size – in adequate quantities – is their competitive advantage. Yellow diamonds are abundantly available and therefore, their prices are comparable to whites. Some of the pink and blue diamonds command 10x premium over whites. Red diamonds can cost between $3 million to $5 million per carat. Such is the rarity of red that you are lucky to get even one stone in a year. 

Manufacturing jewelry is a different ball game as you need a long-term vision, patience and surplus funds to invest. The traditional approach of thematic jewelry designing doesn’t work for colored diamond jewelry as the desired calibration and specification may not be available. One has to design on the basis of the diamonds available at a given point in time. 
 
“This value based, high margin business has lower stock turns where a retailer may even have to wait for four years to get a buyer. We are fully geared up for the demanding U.S. market with a flexible collaborative mindset and adequate inventory,” says Darshit confidently.

Note: This story was completed for publication in the special India Diamond Report newsletter prior to Russia’s invasion of Ukraine and the U.S.’s subsequent ban on Russian diamonds on March 11.
Anil PrabhakarAnil Prabhakar is an industry analyst, journalist and consultant associated with the Jewelry and watch industries.

The Latest

Eiseman Jewels ribbon cutting ceremony
IndependentsMay 13, 2025
Eiseman Jewels’ Renovated Dallas Store Is Bigger and Better

Located in NorthPark Center, the revamped store is nearly 2,000 square feet larger and includes the first Tudor boutique in Dallas.

Diamond Council of America
MajorsMay 13, 2025
DCA Announces New Learning Platform, Course Updates

The nonprofit has made updates to the content in its beginner and advanced jewelry sales courses.

Malyia McNaughton and Elyssa Jenkins-Pérez
MajorsMay 13, 2025
BIJC Launches New Education Fund

BIJC President Malyia McNaughton will shift roles to lead the new foundation, and Elyssa Jenkins-Pérez will succeed her as president.

antique_Vegas_2024_by_headshot_stories_9454.jpg
Brought to you by
Las Vegas Antique Jewelry & Watch Show: Showcasing the Most Collectible Merchandise from Across the Globe

Gain access to the most exclusive and coveted antique pieces from trusted dealers during Las Vegas Jewelry Week.

Lightbox’s Reminiscence Poet earrings in 14-karat white gold with lab-grown diamonds
Lab-GrownMay 12, 2025
Lightbox to Go Dark by Summer, De Beers Says

The company plans to halt all consumer-facing activity this summer, while Lightbox factory operations will cease by the end of the year.

Weekly QuizMay 08, 2025
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Stock image of shipping containers
Policies & IssuesMay 12, 2025
Tariffs on Chinese Imports Temporarily Slashed as U.S.-China Reach Deal

Following weekend negotiations, the tax on Chinese goods imported into the United States will drop by 115 percent for the next 90 days.

Artists’ Jewelry: From Cubism to Pop, the Diane Venet Collection
Events & AwardsMay 12, 2025
Jewelry By Picasso, Dalí on Display at Florida Art Museum

“Artists’ Jewelry: From Cubism to Pop, the Diane Venet Collection” is on view at the Norton Museum of Art through October.

Supplier Spotlight -Recorded-Webinar.png
Brought to you by
Watch: The Winston Red: GIA Examines the Smithsonian’s Newest Addition

Supplier Spotlight Sponsored by GIA

2025 CASE Award Submission Graphic
Events & AwardsMay 12, 2025
CASE Awards Now Accepting Entries For 2025

The deadline to submit is June 16.

Lugano Diamonds store in Greenwich, Connecticut
IndependentsMay 09, 2025
Lugano Diamonds CEO Resigns Amid Internal Investigation

Moti Ferder stepped down Wednesday and will not receive any severance pay, parent company Compass Diversified said.

Coeur Percé Scapular Necklace and Love Baby Locket
CollectionsMay 09, 2025
Pieces of the Week: Marie Lichtenberg’s Collaborations for Mother’s Day

Lichtenberg partnered with luxury platform Mytheresa on two designs honoring the connection between mothers and daughters.

Gemfields emeralds
SourcingMay 09, 2025
Gemfields Resumes Emerald Mining in Zambia

The miner announced plans to recommence open-pit mining at Kagem.

Stock image of a man’s hands in handcuffs
CrimeMay 08, 2025
Former NYC Jewelry Store Employee Arrested in 2017 Choking Death of Boss

Michel Desalles allegedly murdered Omid Gholian inside World of Gold N Diamond using zip ties and then fled the country.

2025 Met Gala jewelry
EditorsMay 08, 2025
5 ‘Superfine’ Met Gala Jewelry Moments

Associate Editor Lauren McLemore shares her favorite looks from a night of style inspired by Black dandyism.

instappraise-1.png
Supplier BulletinMay 08, 2025
Instappraise Introduces Game-Changing Trifold Appraisal Format

Sponsored by Instappraise

Brilliant Earth three stone Sabine diamond engagement ring
FinancialsMay 08, 2025
Brilliant Earth Notes an Uptick in Engagement Ring Sales in Q1

CEO Beth Gerstein discussed the company’s bridal bestsellers, the potential impact of tariffs, and the rising price of gold.

Exterior of Margot McKinney Beverly Hills Location
IndependentsMay 08, 2025
Margot McKinney Lands in the U.S. With New Boutique

The brand’s first independent location outside of Australia has opened in Beverly Hills, California.

Cathy Marsh
IndependentsMay 08, 2025
Verragio Announces New Regional Sales Manager

Cathy Marsh will lead the jewelry company’s efforts in the upper Midwest and western United States.

Pandora gold and silver charm bracelet
FinancialsMay 07, 2025
Pandora Posts Strong Q1, Plans for Tariffs

The company has multiple strategies for dealing with tariffs, though its CEO said moving manufacturing to the U.S. is not one of them.

Headshot of Smart Age Solutions CEO Emmanuel Raheb
ColumnistsMay 07, 2025
The Smart Lab: Building a Seasonal Marketing Strategy for Mother’s Day and Beyond

Connecting with your customers throughout the year is key to a successful holiday marketing push.

Gemfields rough emeralds
SourcingMay 07, 2025
Gemfields Says Emerald Sales Improved in Latest Auction

Its commercial-quality emerald sale held last month totaled more than $16 million, up from about $11 million in September 2024.

Logo for “In the Loupe,” Punchmark’s podcast
TechnologyMay 07, 2025
Punchmark’s Latest Podcast Features a Very Special Guest

National Jeweler Editor-in-Chief Michelle Graff joined Michael Burpoe to talk tariffs, consumer confidence, and the sky-high price of gold.

Harwell Godfrey Met Gala brooch with Mediterranean Blue diamond
AuctionsMay 06, 2025
Harwell Godfrey Reimagines 10-Carat Blue Diamond for Met Gala-Ready Brooch

Designer Lauren Harwell Godfrey made the piece as an homage to the 2025 gala’s theme, “Superfine: Tailoring Black Style.”

Jewelers of America 20 Under 40 for 2025
Events & AwardsMay 06, 2025
Here’s Who Made Jewelers of America’s New ‘20 Under 40’ List

Expanded this year to include suppliers, JA’s 2025 list honors 40 up-and-coming professionals in the jewelry industry.

Sissys Log Cabin Fort Smith Arkansas
IndependentsMay 06, 2025
Sissy's Log Cabin Opens New Store

Located in Fort Smith, it’s the Mid-South jeweler’s first store in Northwest Arkansas.

Gunderson’s Jewelers
IndependentsMay 06, 2025
Gunderson’s Jewelers to Be Featured on ‘World’s Greatest’ TV Series

The episode about the family-owned jeweler will premiere May 17.

Zadok Jewelers Austin store
IndependentsMay 05, 2025
Zadok Jewelers Opens Store in Austin

The Houston-based jeweler’s new 11,000-square-foot showroom will include a Rolex boutique.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy