Sourcing

Diamond Manufacturing: The Long-Term India Story Remains Intact

SourcingMar 16, 2022

Diamond Manufacturing: The Long-Term India Story Remains Intact

Investment in infrastructure, technology and talent help India consolidate its leadership in the global diamond industry.

20220305_SRK Green.png
SRK Exports embarked on its path to sustainability way back in 2011. Both of its factories are certified green buildings.
The Indian diamond industry’s transformation from a low-cost producer of star melee diamonds to an innovative, hi-tech global leader in 25 years has been phenomenal. Use of automated polishers, imaging machines, 3D digital printers, AI and cloud-based big data analytical tools have increased transparency, efficiency and productivity.
 
“Our investment in technology paid off during the pandemic. Buyers could access our online inventory and place orders. We in turn could buy rough from the miners by looking at their 3D scans”, says Rahul Jauhari, Sr. VP Global Sales & Marketing, Star Rays and core committee member of young Diamantaires.
“Understanding buyers’ needs helped us launch our own ISO certified diamond grading system. Our 360-degree HD video patented feature, Digiplot helps buyers determine a diamond’s depth and map out inclusions. The footprints that trace their diamonds’ journey from mine to market are also made available on an excel sheet,” says Shreyans Dholakia, Brand Custodian at SRK Exports.

The Indian diamond industry scores high on the Employee Experience Index as compared to the fast fashion industry. Unlike the dilapidated sweat shops of Thailand and Bangladesh with utter disregard to human lives, the diamond factories in Surat are built to last. In the closely knit diamond industry, good business practices are emulated and become accepted norms. 

“Providing free wholesome healthy food during lunch to our 5,000 employees has resulted in increased morale and productivity. Technology is an enabler that has provided a level playing field. Motivated and committed workforce is our strength in this competitive industry,” he adds.
 
More and more manufacturing companies are becoming environmentally conscious, responsible corporate citizens. Kinjal Shah, Regional Director (India & Middle East), Responsible Jewelry Council (RJC) shares that the RJC membership in India has increased by 20% during the last two years. Out of its 160 members, 60% are diamond manufacturers and 30% are jewelers. 
 
SRK Empire was inaugurated in 2011 (long before sustainability became a buzzword), achieved the LEED Gold rating in 2015, and then got enhanced to Platinum Certification status from US Green Building Council (USGBC) in 2018 – making it the “first manufacturing facility in India and the Asia region,” and also the first in the gem and jewelry sector across the world to be awarded the Platinum rating by USGBC.

SRK’s second 225,000 sq. ft. diamond crafting facility SRK House was also awarded the LEED Platinum certification by USGBC in 2020. 

20220305_Botswana resized.png
As a part of its beneficiation initiative Star Rays have set up a factory in Botswana employing women in key roles.
 
Star Rays is working towards becoming India’s first carbon-neutral diamond company, highlighting its commitment to sustainable business practices. The company is participating in the World Jewellery Confederation’s (CIBJO) Greenhouse Gas (GHG) Measuring and Offsetting Initiative to ensure that its carbon emissions and removals are measured in accordance with international standards. 

The company is spreading its wings and has set up a state-of-the-art factory in Gaborone, Botswana, hiring female employees at all possible levels to promote women empowerment.
 
20220305_fancy.png
Diamonds in fancy shapes contribute to 50% of SRK Exports’ production.
 
The top two trends prevailing in the diamond industry are:

1. Manufacturing of small diamonds (star melee) is being consolidated into the hands of a few large players due to the disruption caused by undisclosed mixing of LGDs by unethical traders. It has now become imperative for manufacturers to install synthetic detecting machines and get their goods certified. This has imposed additional costs and increased their woes as every diamond needs to be checked. The production of star melees therefore is no longer lucrative. Shreyans feels that the I1 I2 segment that is huge in the US in all probability will be replaced by the LGDs. Rather than buying diamonds of inferior clarity and color, customers would prefer to buy cleaner goods. 

Rahul however, is of the opinion that smaller, natural diamonds would retain their appeal to first-time buyers due to emotional reasons. The demand for diamond studded luxury watches is also on the rise.  The fact that prices of small diamonds have witnessed the highest rise indicates their growing demand.
 
There is also a growing demand for diamonds with fancy shapes. Rahul says that the pear and oval shapes are moving fast. Shreyans opines that the first-time buyers prefer a round diamond. However, for their subsequent purchases, they are inclined towards fancy shapes due to the novelty factor. The fact that they can buy a larger diamond at the same price adds to its allure.
 
2. With demand at an all-time high, diamond manufacturers are on a roll. Whatever is being produced today is being sold. There is a shortage of polished diamonds and the prices of rough are up by 20%. 

With economies and travel opening up, consumers now have new avenues to spend money, this may reduce diamonds’ wallet share. Consumer backlash against Russia may also prove a dampener as Alrosa’s contribution in the diamond pipeline is 30%.  

Manufacturers therefore are cautiously optimistic and hope the geopolitical tensions ease soon as war is not in anyone’s interest.

Note: This story was completed for publication in the special India Diamond Report newsletter prior to Russia’s invasion of Ukraine and the U.S.’s subsequent ban on Russian diamonds on March 11.
Anil PrabhakarAnil Prabhakar is an industry analyst, journalist and consultant associated with the Jewelry and watch industries.

The Latest

Guzema Founder and Creative Director Valeriya Guzema and Co-Owner and CEO Mariana Lenha
EditorsJul 16, 2026
Q&A: Guzema’s Co-Owners On Its US Expansion, 10-Year Anniversary

Valeriya Guzema and Mariana Lenha look back on the last decade and discuss the Ukrainian brand’s first U.S. store.

Necklace from Vhernier’s “Freccia” high jewelry collection
FinancialsJul 16, 2026
Richemont’s Jewelry Sales Soar for the Seventh Quarter in a Row

Jewelry sales for the company, which owns Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Vhernier, and Buccellati, rose 21 percent in the first quarter.

Grace Barden
Events & AwardsJul 16, 2026
MJSA Mentor & Apprenticeship Program Certifies First Advanced Apprentice Graduate

The graduate, Grace Barden, credited the program with helping her secure a job as a bench jeweler.

Brought-To-By-Article-Top-Image.jpg
Brought to you by
Wedding Band Trends 2026: Personalization Takes Center Stage

Colored gemstones, artisan finishes, mixed metals, and meaningful details are shaping demand in bridal jewelry.

Jewelers of Louisiana 80th Annual Convention Logo
Events & AwardsJul 16, 2026
Jewelers of Louisiana to Host 80th Convention

The event, scheduled for next month in New Orleans, will include dinner, a custom jewelry design contest, and education sessions.

Weekly QuizJul 16, 2026
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Barry Berman
IndependentsJul 15, 2026
New Jersey Jeweler Barry Berman Dies at 81

The founder of Fords Jewelers, Berman is remembered for his love of connecting with his community.

Watches of Switzerland Mall of America store
FinancialsJul 15, 2026
Watches of Switzerland’s US Sales Jump 18%, Declines to Comment on Sale Report

The watch and jewelry retailer had a strong fiscal year despite what its CEO described as a “complex operating backdrop.”

DCA-NJ-article-1872x1052-060826.jpg
Brought to you by
Building the Future of Jewelry Retail: DCA Expands Education, Leadership Development, and Workforce Solutions

DCA is preparing the next generation of professionals by supporting workforce development, leadership growth, and career advancement.

Hamptons Jewelry Show exhibitors Maison Mèrenor, Jochen Leën, Studio Javo
Events & AwardsJul 15, 2026
Hamptons Jewelry Show to Return in July

The open-to-the-public luxury jewelry and timepiece show, in its second year, is slated for July 23-26.

Pomellato Eye of Tanzanite Necklace and Pin-Up Ring
CollectionsJul 15, 2026
Pomellato’s New High Jewelry Is Liberating

Bold color, expressive gem-setting, and sculptural form define the three chapters that make up “Stile Libero.”

Foundrae London Store Showcases
IndependentsJul 14, 2026
Foundrae Opens First Standalone Store Outside US

The New York-based jewelry brand has expanded overseas, opening a store in London’s Mayfair district.

The Retail Smiths Principal Partner and National Jeweler columnist Sherry Smith
ColumnistsJul 14, 2026
Sherry Smith: What Today’s Jewelry Consumer Is Telling Us

Rising revenue does not automatically mean a healthy business, particularly in the current economic landscape, Smith writes.

Mindi Mond New York emerald shoulder duster earrings
TrendsJul 14, 2026
Amanda’s Style File: Shoulder Dusters

These long, fluid drop earrings are sure to catch the eye.

FBI Most Wanted image of Alberto Perez-Elias
CrimeJul 14, 2026
Man Charged in $1M Jewelry Store Heist Lands on FBI Most Wanted List

Alberto Perez-Elias is one of four men charged with robbing a Cape Coral, Florida, jewelry store and is the only one still at large.

Aerial view of Amazon
Events & AwardsJul 14, 2026
Conference on Mining, Sustainability Kicks Off in NYC

Initiatives in Art and Culture is hosting its 16th annual Gold and Diamond Conference, with the theme of “Resilience.”

Stephanie Gottlieb Casual Carats Lab-Grown Dimond and Silicone Rings
Lab-GrownJul 13, 2026
Stephanie Gottlieb Changes Her Mind on Lab-Grown Diamonds

The designer, who once said she’d never sell lab-grown diamonds, debuted two capsule collections designed to be fun and easy to wear.

File photo of the Venetia Diamond Mine in South Africa
SourcingJul 13, 2026
De Beers Announces Potential Layoffs, 2-Year Production Pause at Venetia

The diamond miner and marketer is undergoing another round of cost-cutting measures ahead of its sale by Anglo American.

JIS sign in convention center lobby
Events & AwardsJul 13, 2026
Registration Opens for JIS Fall 2026 Show

The annual trade-only buying event is slated for Oct. 16-19 in Miami Beach, Florida.

“Elements” bracelet best of show AGTA Spectrum 2025
Events & AwardsJul 13, 2026
AGTA Accepting Entries for Spectrum 2026

AGTA also has announced the lineup of judges for the colored gemstone cutting and jewelry design contest’s various categories.

Arena Club Twilight and Eclipse Time Boxes
TechnologyJul 10, 2026
There’s a New Blind Box for Luxury Watches

Collectibles platform Arena Club’s new Time Boxes could contain a Rolex or Patek Philippe watch.

Jade Trau Constellation Plié Collar
TrendsJul 10, 2026
Jade Trau Creates a Constellation of Diamonds

The “Constellation Plié” collar, our Piece of the Week, features diamonds arranged in a constellation of shining stars.

Former De Beers CFO of Brands and Consumer Markets Shaun Wills
SourcingJul 10, 2026
CFO of De Beers’ Consumer-Facing Division Leaves Company

Shaun Wills joined the company in 2024 and was chief financial officer of the De Beers Brands and Consumer Markets division.

Brilliant Earth watches
WatchesJul 10, 2026
Brilliant Earth Expands Into Watches

In honor of its 20th anniversary, the jewelry brand has released a limited-edition collection of Swiss-made timepieces.

Boucheron Human Being Collection Tattoo Necklace
CollectionsJul 09, 2026
Boucheron’s New High Jewelry Collection Is an Ode to the Human Touch

“Human Being” highlights the similarities and differences between us through five sets of jewelry that celebrate fine craftsmanship.

Baume & Mercier watch
WatchesJul 09, 2026
Damiani Group Finalizes Acquisition of Baume & Mercier

Richemont will continue to provide operational services for the watch brand for a period while the group prepares to integrate it.

Joopiter Logo
AuctionsJul 09, 2026
Pharrell Williams’ Joopiter Hires Former Bonhams Exec to Head New Watch Division

Nate Borgelt will lead the digital auction house and content platform’s new division as head of watches.

Enoch Michael
Events & AwardsJul 09, 2026
Halstead Names 2026 Grant Winner

Enoch Platero, founder and designer behind Enoch Michael, is the first Native American jeweler to win the award.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy