Sourcing

Diamond Manufacturing: The Long-Term India Story Remains Intact

SourcingMar 16, 2022

Diamond Manufacturing: The Long-Term India Story Remains Intact

Investment in infrastructure, technology and talent help India consolidate its leadership in the global diamond industry.

20220305_SRK Green.png
SRK Exports embarked on its path to sustainability way back in 2011. Both of its factories are certified green buildings.
The Indian diamond industry’s transformation from a low-cost producer of star melee diamonds to an innovative, hi-tech global leader in 25 years has been phenomenal. Use of automated polishers, imaging machines, 3D digital printers, AI and cloud-based big data analytical tools have increased transparency, efficiency and productivity.
 
“Our investment in technology paid off during the pandemic. Buyers could access our online inventory and place orders. We in turn could buy rough from the miners by looking at their 3D scans”, says Rahul Jauhari, Sr. VP Global Sales & Marketing, Star Rays and core committee member of young Diamantaires.
“Understanding buyers’ needs helped us launch our own ISO certified diamond grading system. Our 360-degree HD video patented feature, Digiplot helps buyers determine a diamond’s depth and map out inclusions. The footprints that trace their diamonds’ journey from mine to market are also made available on an excel sheet,” says Shreyans Dholakia, Brand Custodian at SRK Exports.

The Indian diamond industry scores high on the Employee Experience Index as compared to the fast fashion industry. Unlike the dilapidated sweat shops of Thailand and Bangladesh with utter disregard to human lives, the diamond factories in Surat are built to last. In the closely knit diamond industry, good business practices are emulated and become accepted norms. 

“Providing free wholesome healthy food during lunch to our 5,000 employees has resulted in increased morale and productivity. Technology is an enabler that has provided a level playing field. Motivated and committed workforce is our strength in this competitive industry,” he adds.
 
More and more manufacturing companies are becoming environmentally conscious, responsible corporate citizens. Kinjal Shah, Regional Director (India & Middle East), Responsible Jewelry Council (RJC) shares that the RJC membership in India has increased by 20% during the last two years. Out of its 160 members, 60% are diamond manufacturers and 30% are jewelers. 
 
SRK Empire was inaugurated in 2011 (long before sustainability became a buzzword), achieved the LEED Gold rating in 2015, and then got enhanced to Platinum Certification status from US Green Building Council (USGBC) in 2018 – making it the “first manufacturing facility in India and the Asia region,” and also the first in the gem and jewelry sector across the world to be awarded the Platinum rating by USGBC.

SRK’s second 225,000 sq. ft. diamond crafting facility SRK House was also awarded the LEED Platinum certification by USGBC in 2020. 

20220305_Botswana resized.png
As a part of its beneficiation initiative Star Rays have set up a factory in Botswana employing women in key roles.
 
Star Rays is working towards becoming India’s first carbon-neutral diamond company, highlighting its commitment to sustainable business practices. The company is participating in the World Jewellery Confederation’s (CIBJO) Greenhouse Gas (GHG) Measuring and Offsetting Initiative to ensure that its carbon emissions and removals are measured in accordance with international standards. 

The company is spreading its wings and has set up a state-of-the-art factory in Gaborone, Botswana, hiring female employees at all possible levels to promote women empowerment.
 
20220305_fancy.png
Diamonds in fancy shapes contribute to 50% of SRK Exports’ production.
 
The top two trends prevailing in the diamond industry are:

1. Manufacturing of small diamonds (star melee) is being consolidated into the hands of a few large players due to the disruption caused by undisclosed mixing of LGDs by unethical traders. It has now become imperative for manufacturers to install synthetic detecting machines and get their goods certified. This has imposed additional costs and increased their woes as every diamond needs to be checked. The production of star melees therefore is no longer lucrative. Shreyans feels that the I1 I2 segment that is huge in the US in all probability will be replaced by the LGDs. Rather than buying diamonds of inferior clarity and color, customers would prefer to buy cleaner goods. 

Rahul however, is of the opinion that smaller, natural diamonds would retain their appeal to first-time buyers due to emotional reasons. The demand for diamond studded luxury watches is also on the rise.  The fact that prices of small diamonds have witnessed the highest rise indicates their growing demand.
 
There is also a growing demand for diamonds with fancy shapes. Rahul says that the pear and oval shapes are moving fast. Shreyans opines that the first-time buyers prefer a round diamond. However, for their subsequent purchases, they are inclined towards fancy shapes due to the novelty factor. The fact that they can buy a larger diamond at the same price adds to its allure.
 
2. With demand at an all-time high, diamond manufacturers are on a roll. Whatever is being produced today is being sold. There is a shortage of polished diamonds and the prices of rough are up by 20%. 

With economies and travel opening up, consumers now have new avenues to spend money, this may reduce diamonds’ wallet share. Consumer backlash against Russia may also prove a dampener as Alrosa’s contribution in the diamond pipeline is 30%.  

Manufacturers therefore are cautiously optimistic and hope the geopolitical tensions ease soon as war is not in anyone’s interest.

Note: This story was completed for publication in the special India Diamond Report newsletter prior to Russia’s invasion of Ukraine and the U.S.’s subsequent ban on Russian diamonds on March 11.
Anil PrabhakarAnil Prabhakar is an industry analyst, journalist and consultant associated with the Jewelry and watch industries.

The Latest

Endiama Commercial Director Elton Escrivão at the 2026 African Mining Indaba
EditorsJul 29, 2026
Q&A: The Past and Future of Angola’s Diamond Industry

Endiama Commercial Director Elton Escrivão knows people have a lot of misperceptions about Angola. He wants to change that.

Kevin Reilly PGI USA
MajorsJul 29, 2026
Kevin Reilly Retires After 39 Years in the Jewelry Industry

Reilly has been with PGI USA for the last 20 years, leading partnership development and professional education.

Pomellato Mandala Chromia necklace
FinancialsJul 29, 2026
Kering’s H1 Jewelry Sales Up 14%

Boucheron reached record sales while Pomellato found success in its signature collections.

1872-x-1052-July-ad (1).png
Brought to you by
Why More Jewelry Retailers Are Hosting Turnkey Estate Buying Events

Retailers are seeking new ways to attract customers, increase traffic, and create revenue – Estate buying events are a popular solution.

United Flags of Fashion Arkansas Flag By Lauren Harwell Godfrey
Events & AwardsJul 29, 2026
Lauren Harwell Godfrey Designs a Flag for Arkansas

She was one of more than 120 American designers who created flags for the “United Flags of Fashion” project led by CFDA and Vogue.

Weekly QuizJul 23, 2026
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
The Retail Smiths partner and National Jeweler columnist Peter Smith 
ColumnistsJul 28, 2026
Peter Smith: Why Your Job Postings May Be Working Against You

Smith reveals the method The Retail Smiths use to help retailers and vendors write better job postings.

Tiffany & Co butterfly necklace
FinancialsJul 28, 2026
Tiffany & Co., Bulgari Lead the Way for LVMH in H1

LVMH’s jewelry and watch brands outperformed the company’s other divisions in an environment the company described as “disrupted.”

Brought-To-By-Article-Top-Image.jpg
Brought to you by
Wedding Band Trends 2026: Personalization Takes Center Stage

Colored gemstones, artisan finishes, mixed metals, and meaningful details are shaping demand in bridal jewelry.

Lionheart Sacred Heart Charm Necklace
CollectionsJul 28, 2026
Lionheart’s New Collection Unites Spiritual Iconography

“Sacred Heart” features symbols like crosses, angel wings, the Star of David, and the evil eye as a representation of coexistence.

Events & AwardsJul 28, 2026
The Edge Funding 2 Scholarships Via 24 Karat Club SEUS

The scholarships will go to early-career professionals looking to study gemology, bench work and jewelry design, or store operations.

Mikimoto L'éclat high jewelry brooch
SurveysJul 27, 2026
Jewelry Leads Luxury Market Amid Stabilization, Bain Says

Bain & Company delved into the trends shaping the luxury market, the impact of AI, and more in its recent study.

Stock image of shipping containers in port
Policies & IssuesJul 24, 2026
New Trump Tariffs: What They Mean for Jewelry

The new sweeping slate of tariffs impacts 60 countries, including India, China, Thailand, Hong Kong, and the United Arab Emirates.

Jorge Adeler Gods & Heroes coin pendant
TrendsJul 24, 2026
Amanda’s Style File: Ode to ‘The Odyssey’

From coin pendants to diamond shields, these old world-inspired jewels are the perfect accessory for an epic journey.

Courtney Leidy Amethyst Silk Cord Pendant
TrendsJul 24, 2026
Courtney Leidy’s Silk Cord Pendants Center Unexpected Pairings

Our Piece of the Week pairs a checkerboard-cut amethyst with an ivy green silk cord.

NJ Article image.png
PodcastsJul 23, 2026
Episode 7: Reinhold Jewelers on the Power of Relationships

Mildred Marcano Abrams and Yael Reinhold join the podcast to talk community connections, holiday plans, and preserving Reinhold’s legacy.

Silvia Furmanovich Enchapado en Tamo Wooden Wheat Straw Sun Earrings
CollectionsJul 23, 2026
Silvia Furmanovich’s New Collection Travels Back to the 1920s

“Art Deco” fuses ancestral techniques, rare materials, and modern perspectives as a tribute to the optimism and curiosity of the movement.

Sissy’s Log Cabin Saracen Casino
IndependentsJul 23, 2026
Sissy's Log Cabin Opens Casino Store

The jeweler’s newest store is inside Arkansas’ Saracen Casino Resort.

Kate Spade New York watches
WatchesJul 23, 2026
Movado Inks Licensing Deal With Kate Spade New York

The watch company will design, manufacture, and distribute Kate Spade New York watches.

Stock photo of loose polished diamonds
Policies & IssuesJul 22, 2026
Trump to Put 50% Tariff on Canadian Goods

The higher tax is set to go into effect in August and will apply to loose polished diamonds as well as precious and base metals jewelry.

Monica Rich Kosann Enchanted Garden Cherry Necklace
CollectionsJul 22, 2026
Monica Rich Kosann’s High Jewelry Is Fruitful

The “Enchanted Garden” series features a cherry, lemon, and pear that each hold a little secret inside.

Liljenquist new Rolex boutique McLean Virginia
IndependentsJul 22, 2026
Liljenquist Beckstead Opens Rolex New Boutique

It’s located in Tysons Galleria, an upscale shopping center in the Washington, D.C., metro area.

NY Now exhibitor booth
Events & AwardsJul 22, 2026
NY Now Returns in August Under New Ownership

The show, recently acquired by Rockview Management Group, will be held at New York City’s Javits Center from Aug. 2-4.

The Retail Smith Principal Partner and National Jeweler columnist Sherry Smith
ColumnistsJul 21, 2026
Sherry Smith: Shattering the Illusion of the ‘Either/Or’ Diamond Market

Smith offers retailers guidance on creating an environment where natural and lab-grown diamonds can both thrive.

Emerald logo
Events & AwardsJul 21, 2026
Apollo Funds Completes Emerald Acquisition

Former Emerald President and CEO Hervé Sedky has transitioned to the role of senior advisor.

Graff Seraphina Brooch and Lina Pendant
CollectionsJul 21, 2026
Graff’s New Butterfly High Jewelry Brooches Metamorphosize

The 12-piece capsule collection transforms from brooches to pendants.

Rough diamonds from De Beers’ Gahcho Kue mine in Canada
SourcingJul 21, 2026
Anglo Reportedly Selects Gareth Penny’s Consortium as Top Bidder for De Beers

A Botswana government official told lawmakers Anglo has selected The Global Diamond Consortium, an entity chaired by Penny, to buy De Beers.

Stock image of shipping containers
Policies & IssuesJul 20, 2026
Tariffs on Brazil to Increase But Rough Gemstones Exempt

The new tariff, imposed after a Trump administration study, is 25 percent and will stack on top of existing tariffs.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy