Sourcing

Diamond Manufacturing: The Long-Term India Story Remains Intact

SourcingMar 16, 2022

Diamond Manufacturing: The Long-Term India Story Remains Intact

Investment in infrastructure, technology and talent help India consolidate its leadership in the global diamond industry.

20220305_SRK Green.png
SRK Exports embarked on its path to sustainability way back in 2011. Both of its factories are certified green buildings.
The Indian diamond industry’s transformation from a low-cost producer of star melee diamonds to an innovative, hi-tech global leader in 25 years has been phenomenal. Use of automated polishers, imaging machines, 3D digital printers, AI and cloud-based big data analytical tools have increased transparency, efficiency and productivity.
 
“Our investment in technology paid off during the pandemic. Buyers could access our online inventory and place orders. We in turn could buy rough from the miners by looking at their 3D scans”, says Rahul Jauhari, Sr. VP Global Sales & Marketing, Star Rays and core committee member of young Diamantaires.
“Understanding buyers’ needs helped us launch our own ISO certified diamond grading system. Our 360-degree HD video patented feature, Digiplot helps buyers determine a diamond’s depth and map out inclusions. The footprints that trace their diamonds’ journey from mine to market are also made available on an excel sheet,” says Shreyans Dholakia, Brand Custodian at SRK Exports.

The Indian diamond industry scores high on the Employee Experience Index as compared to the fast fashion industry. Unlike the dilapidated sweat shops of Thailand and Bangladesh with utter disregard to human lives, the diamond factories in Surat are built to last. In the closely knit diamond industry, good business practices are emulated and become accepted norms. 

“Providing free wholesome healthy food during lunch to our 5,000 employees has resulted in increased morale and productivity. Technology is an enabler that has provided a level playing field. Motivated and committed workforce is our strength in this competitive industry,” he adds.
 
More and more manufacturing companies are becoming environmentally conscious, responsible corporate citizens. Kinjal Shah, Regional Director (India & Middle East), Responsible Jewelry Council (RJC) shares that the RJC membership in India has increased by 20% during the last two years. Out of its 160 members, 60% are diamond manufacturers and 30% are jewelers. 
 
SRK Empire was inaugurated in 2011 (long before sustainability became a buzzword), achieved the LEED Gold rating in 2015, and then got enhanced to Platinum Certification status from US Green Building Council (USGBC) in 2018 – making it the “first manufacturing facility in India and the Asia region,” and also the first in the gem and jewelry sector across the world to be awarded the Platinum rating by USGBC.

SRK’s second 225,000 sq. ft. diamond crafting facility SRK House was also awarded the LEED Platinum certification by USGBC in 2020. 

20220305_Botswana resized.png
As a part of its beneficiation initiative Star Rays have set up a factory in Botswana employing women in key roles.
 
Star Rays is working towards becoming India’s first carbon-neutral diamond company, highlighting its commitment to sustainable business practices. The company is participating in the World Jewellery Confederation’s (CIBJO) Greenhouse Gas (GHG) Measuring and Offsetting Initiative to ensure that its carbon emissions and removals are measured in accordance with international standards. 

The company is spreading its wings and has set up a state-of-the-art factory in Gaborone, Botswana, hiring female employees at all possible levels to promote women empowerment.
 
20220305_fancy.png
Diamonds in fancy shapes contribute to 50% of SRK Exports’ production.
 
The top two trends prevailing in the diamond industry are:

1. Manufacturing of small diamonds (star melee) is being consolidated into the hands of a few large players due to the disruption caused by undisclosed mixing of LGDs by unethical traders. It has now become imperative for manufacturers to install synthetic detecting machines and get their goods certified. This has imposed additional costs and increased their woes as every diamond needs to be checked. The production of star melees therefore is no longer lucrative. Shreyans feels that the I1 I2 segment that is huge in the US in all probability will be replaced by the LGDs. Rather than buying diamonds of inferior clarity and color, customers would prefer to buy cleaner goods. 

Rahul however, is of the opinion that smaller, natural diamonds would retain their appeal to first-time buyers due to emotional reasons. The demand for diamond studded luxury watches is also on the rise.  The fact that prices of small diamonds have witnessed the highest rise indicates their growing demand.
 
There is also a growing demand for diamonds with fancy shapes. Rahul says that the pear and oval shapes are moving fast. Shreyans opines that the first-time buyers prefer a round diamond. However, for their subsequent purchases, they are inclined towards fancy shapes due to the novelty factor. The fact that they can buy a larger diamond at the same price adds to its allure.
 
2. With demand at an all-time high, diamond manufacturers are on a roll. Whatever is being produced today is being sold. There is a shortage of polished diamonds and the prices of rough are up by 20%. 

With economies and travel opening up, consumers now have new avenues to spend money, this may reduce diamonds’ wallet share. Consumer backlash against Russia may also prove a dampener as Alrosa’s contribution in the diamond pipeline is 30%.  

Manufacturers therefore are cautiously optimistic and hope the geopolitical tensions ease soon as war is not in anyone’s interest.

Note: This story was completed for publication in the special India Diamond Report newsletter prior to Russia’s invasion of Ukraine and the U.S.’s subsequent ban on Russian diamonds on March 11.

The Latest

Hand holding shopping bags
SurveysOct 16, 2026
How Inflation, Gas Prices Will Affect Holiday Sales

The NRF is expecting holiday sales to increase this year, but consumers and retailers alike are facing Grinch-like headwinds.

Christina Puchi Gemstone Earrings
CollectionsOct 16, 2026
Christina Puchi’s Earrings Hold the Universe

Our Piece of the Week gathers the planets, represented by a variety of colored gemstones, in a pair of 14-karat yellow gold earrings.

Reeds Jewelers Fayetteville
IndependentsOct 16, 2026
Reeds Jewelers Expands, Relocates Flagship

The New York-based jeweler is moving its Amherst flagship store to a larger location in nearby Snyder.

1872 x 1052 Gemolite.jpg
Brought to you by
Meet Gemology’s Next Generation Microscope: GIA® Gemolite® NXT Professional Edition

Experience gemstones with greater precision and comfort than ever before.

Graff USA Executive Vice President Katy Chen
MajorsOct 16, 2026
Katy Chen Appointed Executive Vice President of Graff USA

Chen, who worked at Cartier and Tiffany & Co., will lead retail sales and operations for the luxury jeweler’s 11 U.S. stores.

Weekly QuizOct 15, 2026
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Elise & Amy Greenberg
IndependentsOct 15, 2026
Retailer Hall of Fame 2026: Amy and Elise Greenberg

For 40 years, sisters Amy and Elise Greenberg have helmed their 126-year-old family business, leading with appreciation and integrity.

The Retail Smiths Principal Partner Peter Smith
ColumnistsOct 15, 2026
Peter Smith: What Is the Culture REP?

It’s a term Smith coined and felt compelled to share following a bad experience with an aborted flight and an unfeeling flight attendant.

Cover.jpg
Brought to you by
Your Piece Could Be the One Editors Talk About

Submit your pieces for a chance to win in this year's competition.

Stephanie Gottlieb Movado watches
WatchesOct 15, 2026
Stephanie Gottlieb’s New Movado Watches Are Made for Your Wrist Stack

Movado teamed up with the New York-based fine jewelry designer on a new collection of Movado Museum Velura watches.

Wolf x Marla Aaron Some of the Things Box
CollectionsOct 15, 2026
Wolf x Marla Aaron's New Jewelry Box Is for Some (Not All) of Your Things

The “Some of the Things” box follows the two larger “Everything” box designs with the look and function of antique sewing and toolboxes.

Coleman Clark and Mitchell Clark
IndependentsOct 14, 2026
Retailer Hall of Fame 2026: Coleman and Mitchell Clark

Fourth-generation jewelers Coleman and Mitchell Clark exemplify the best qualities of their predecessors: humility, modesty, and confidence.

Tiffany & Co.’s Blue Box Café by Daniel Boulud at South Coast Plaza
FinancialsOct 14, 2026
LVMH’s Jewelry Brands Turn in ‘Very Good’ Performance in Q3

Tiffany & Co. continued its full-scale store renovation project while Bulgari’s high jewelry collection generated “record-breaking revenue.”

Chicago Responsible Jewelry Conference 2026 Graphic
Events & AwardsOct 14, 2026
Chicago Responsible Jewelry Conference Releases 2026 Program

This year’s sessions feature leading voices from human rights, legal, and conservation organizations.

Lugano Diamonds Greenwich Connecticut store
MajorsOct 13, 2026
David Webb Owner Purchases Lugano Jewelry

The high-end jewelry retailer was sold to private investment firm Middle West Partners and a group of longtime clients.

Stephanie Gottlieb Wholesale Lab-Grown Collection
Lab-GrownOct 13, 2026
Stephanie Gottlieb Takes Lab-Grown Diamond Collection Wholesale

The jewelry designer has partnered with Sofer Jewelry to distribute her 85-piece lab-grown diamond collection.

Sean Dunn
IndependentsOct 13, 2026
Retailer Hall of Fame 2026: Sean Dunn

Dunn, this year’s Single-Store Independent inductee, is passionate about innovation and telling the story of natural diamonds.

Bulgari pink diamond
AuctionsOct 13, 2026
Christie's Geneva To Auction 'Bulgari Pink' Diamond

The 24-carat fancy intense pink diamond ring could fetch up to $18 million at the November sale.

Greenwich St. Jewelers Island Jewel candle
IndependentsOct 13, 2026
Greenwich St. Jewelers’ New Candle Smells Like Home

The “Island Jewel” candle honors New York City and Puerto Rico and raises money for the island’s water relief efforts.

TechnologyOct 13, 2026
GemFind Is a New JA Member Benefit Partner

The partnership will give JA members access to preferred pricing, exclusive benefits, technology solutions, education, and resources.

Stock image of a person holding holidays bags
SurveysOct 09, 2026
These Will Be the 10 Busiest Days for In-Store Shopping This Holiday Season

Stores should expect to see the most customers on Nov. 27, and Christmas week is expected to be hectic too, as Dec. 25 falls on a Friday.

Elisa Solomon x Serendipity 3 Frozen Hot Chocolate Charm
CollectionsOct 09, 2026
Elisa Solomon Collabs With Serendipity 3 on ‘Frozen Hot Chocolate’ Charm

The charm, our Piece of the Week, features brown diamond frozen hot chocolate topped with white diamond whipped cream and a ruby straw.

8 carat fancy blue diamond
AuctionsOct 09, 2026
8-Carat Blue Diamond Goes Unsold at UK Jewelry Auction

The top lot of Elmwood’s recent fine jewelry sale in London was a 1.84-carat, D color Tiffany & Co. solitaire diamond ring.

Ebel sport classic watch
WatchesOct 09, 2026
Movado to Sell Majority Stake in Ebel for $66.5M

The watch company agreed to sell a 95 percent interest to a group comprised of F.P. Journe, Chanel, and Swiss watch exec Pierre Jacques.

Stock image of paper money and coins
Policies & IssuesOct 08, 2026
Third Wave of IEEPA Tariff Refunds Begins

This round of tariff refunds is for importers that have sued over IEEPA tariffs in the Court of International Trade and won.

Brent Neale Back to Basics Collection Pink Garnet Capsule
CollectionsOct 08, 2026
Brent Neale’s New Collection Goes ‘Back to Basics’

It revisits the brand’s most requested silhouettes, from "Pillow"-set necklaces and bracelets to "Signature"-set rings and earrings.

Ethical Gem Fair Brooklyn
SourcingOct 08, 2026
Ethical Gem Fair Heads Back to Brooklyn

The trade-only event includes buying opportunities as well as educational sessions on artisanal mining, the new Paraíba source, and more.

Ara Chanakian Overall Design Winner
Events & AwardsOct 08, 2026
Pattons Fine Jewelry Sweeps Local Design Contest

Ara Chanakian, a jeweler at Pattons, took home top honors in every category at Jewelers of Louisiana’s annual jewelry design competition.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy