Sourcing

Diamond Manufacturing: The Long-Term India Story Remains Intact

SourcingMar 16, 2022

Diamond Manufacturing: The Long-Term India Story Remains Intact

Investment in infrastructure, technology and talent help India consolidate its leadership in the global diamond industry.

20220305_SRK Green.png
SRK Exports embarked on its path to sustainability way back in 2011. Both of its factories are certified green buildings.
The Indian diamond industry’s transformation from a low-cost producer of star melee diamonds to an innovative, hi-tech global leader in 25 years has been phenomenal. Use of automated polishers, imaging machines, 3D digital printers, AI and cloud-based big data analytical tools have increased transparency, efficiency and productivity.
 
“Our investment in technology paid off during the pandemic. Buyers could access our online inventory and place orders. We in turn could buy rough from the miners by looking at their 3D scans”, says Rahul Jauhari, Sr. VP Global Sales & Marketing, Star Rays and core committee member of young Diamantaires.
“Understanding buyers’ needs helped us launch our own ISO certified diamond grading system. Our 360-degree HD video patented feature, Digiplot helps buyers determine a diamond’s depth and map out inclusions. The footprints that trace their diamonds’ journey from mine to market are also made available on an excel sheet,” says Shreyans Dholakia, Brand Custodian at SRK Exports.

The Indian diamond industry scores high on the Employee Experience Index as compared to the fast fashion industry. Unlike the dilapidated sweat shops of Thailand and Bangladesh with utter disregard to human lives, the diamond factories in Surat are built to last. In the closely knit diamond industry, good business practices are emulated and become accepted norms. 

“Providing free wholesome healthy food during lunch to our 5,000 employees has resulted in increased morale and productivity. Technology is an enabler that has provided a level playing field. Motivated and committed workforce is our strength in this competitive industry,” he adds.
 
More and more manufacturing companies are becoming environmentally conscious, responsible corporate citizens. Kinjal Shah, Regional Director (India & Middle East), Responsible Jewelry Council (RJC) shares that the RJC membership in India has increased by 20% during the last two years. Out of its 160 members, 60% are diamond manufacturers and 30% are jewelers. 
 
SRK Empire was inaugurated in 2011 (long before sustainability became a buzzword), achieved the LEED Gold rating in 2015, and then got enhanced to Platinum Certification status from US Green Building Council (USGBC) in 2018 – making it the “first manufacturing facility in India and the Asia region,” and also the first in the gem and jewelry sector across the world to be awarded the Platinum rating by USGBC.

SRK’s second 225,000 sq. ft. diamond crafting facility SRK House was also awarded the LEED Platinum certification by USGBC in 2020. 

20220305_Botswana resized.png
As a part of its beneficiation initiative Star Rays have set up a factory in Botswana employing women in key roles.
 
Star Rays is working towards becoming India’s first carbon-neutral diamond company, highlighting its commitment to sustainable business practices. The company is participating in the World Jewellery Confederation’s (CIBJO) Greenhouse Gas (GHG) Measuring and Offsetting Initiative to ensure that its carbon emissions and removals are measured in accordance with international standards. 

The company is spreading its wings and has set up a state-of-the-art factory in Gaborone, Botswana, hiring female employees at all possible levels to promote women empowerment.
 
20220305_fancy.png
Diamonds in fancy shapes contribute to 50% of SRK Exports’ production.
 
The top two trends prevailing in the diamond industry are:

1. Manufacturing of small diamonds (star melee) is being consolidated into the hands of a few large players due to the disruption caused by undisclosed mixing of LGDs by unethical traders. It has now become imperative for manufacturers to install synthetic detecting machines and get their goods certified. This has imposed additional costs and increased their woes as every diamond needs to be checked. The production of star melees therefore is no longer lucrative. Shreyans feels that the I1 I2 segment that is huge in the US in all probability will be replaced by the LGDs. Rather than buying diamonds of inferior clarity and color, customers would prefer to buy cleaner goods. 

Rahul however, is of the opinion that smaller, natural diamonds would retain their appeal to first-time buyers due to emotional reasons. The demand for diamond studded luxury watches is also on the rise.  The fact that prices of small diamonds have witnessed the highest rise indicates their growing demand.
 
There is also a growing demand for diamonds with fancy shapes. Rahul says that the pear and oval shapes are moving fast. Shreyans opines that the first-time buyers prefer a round diamond. However, for their subsequent purchases, they are inclined towards fancy shapes due to the novelty factor. The fact that they can buy a larger diamond at the same price adds to its allure.
 
2. With demand at an all-time high, diamond manufacturers are on a roll. Whatever is being produced today is being sold. There is a shortage of polished diamonds and the prices of rough are up by 20%. 

With economies and travel opening up, consumers now have new avenues to spend money, this may reduce diamonds’ wallet share. Consumer backlash against Russia may also prove a dampener as Alrosa’s contribution in the diamond pipeline is 30%.  

Manufacturers therefore are cautiously optimistic and hope the geopolitical tensions ease soon as war is not in anyone’s interest.

Note: This story was completed for publication in the special India Diamond Report newsletter prior to Russia’s invasion of Ukraine and the U.S.’s subsequent ban on Russian diamonds on March 11.

The Latest

Exterior of Marissa Collections’ new store in Nantucket, Massachusetts
IndependentsJun 25, 2025
Marissa Collections Opens in Nantucket as Legal Fight Continues

The Vault’s Katherine Jetter is accusing the retailer of using info she shared for a potential partnership to move into Nantucket.

Counterfeit Cartier “Juste Un Clou” bracelet
CrimeJun 25, 2025
Customs Nabs Another Big Shipment of Fake Cartier, Van Cleef Jewelry

Agents seized 2,193 pieces, a mix of counterfeit Cartier “Love” and “Juste Un Clou” bracelets, and Van Cleef & Arpels’ “Alhambra” design.

Karine Choudhrie Big Splash Circus Starfish and Lantern Fish
CollectionsJun 25, 2025
Splash into Karina Choudhrie’s Collection of Underwater Circus Performers

The designer brought her children’s book, “The Big Splash Circus,” to life through a collection of playful fine jewelry characters.

an instructor and a student in a bench jewelry classroom
Brought to you by
Investing in the Next Generation of Bench Jewelers

The Seymour & Evelyn Holtzman Bench Scholarship from Jewelers of America returns for a second year.

Jewelers of America
Events & AwardsJun 25, 2025
JA Announces Impact Initiative Fund Recipients

The trade association has chosen the recipients of the funding initiative it formed to foster the growth and sustainability of the industry.

Weekly QuizJun 20, 2025
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Khepri Jewels Luna collection fancy color fringe multi-shape drop diamond earrings
EditorsJun 24, 2025
The Best New Jewelry from Couture 2025, Part 2

Associate Editor Natalie Francisco shares 20 additional pieces that stood out to her at the Couture show.

Lori Tucker
IndependentsJun 24, 2025
Colorado Bench Jeweler Celebrates 50 Years With Local Retailer

Lori Tucker started at Williams Jewelers when she was 18 years old.

Jewelers of America logo with meetup, State of the Majors, giveaway and massages
Brought to you by
Jewelers of America is Headed to Las Vegas for JCK 2025

The countdown is on for the JCK Las Vegas Show and JA is pulling out all the stops.

“Marvel | Citizen Zenshin” watch for the new The Fantastic Four movie
WatchesJun 24, 2025
Citizen’s New ‘Fantastic Four’ Watch Is Literally Super

The “Marvel | Citizen Zenshin” watch is crafted in Super Titanium and has subtle nods to all four “Fantastic Four” superheroes on the dial.

XO Tacori diamond ring
MajorsJun 24, 2025
Tacori, QVC to Launch Exclusive Lab-Grown Diamond Jewelry Collection

The “XO Tacori” collection was designed to blend luxury and accessible pricing.

Pritesh Patel
GradingJun 23, 2025
GIA Names New President and CEO

Pritesh Patel, the lab’s chief operating officer, will take over as president and CEO of GIA.

Graphic for Las Vegas recap episode of “My Next Question”
Recorded WebinarsJun 23, 2025
Watch: Top Trends at Couture, JCK Las Vegas 2025

National Jeweler and Jewelers of America discuss the standout jewelry trends and biggest news to emerge from the shows this year.

Penny Preville, Maggie Hess, Stella Song, and Benjamin King
Events & AwardsJun 23, 2025
Jose Hess Design Awards Celebrate 6 Jewelry Designers

The winning designs captured the “Radiance” theme.

24th Gem Awards Show Logo
Events & AwardsJun 23, 2025
Gem Awards Now Accepting Nominations for 2026

Nominations in the categories of Jewelry Design, Media Excellence, and Retail Innovation will be accepted through July 30.

Single Stone Bryn Ring and Grace Lee Marquise Demi Demi Ring
TrendsJun 20, 2025
Dua Lipa Stays On-Trend With Chunky Engagement Ring

The singer’s ring ticks off many bridal trends, with a thick band, half-bezel setting, and solitaire diamond.

Yvonne Léon Python Gold Bracelet
TrendsJun 20, 2025
Piece of the Week: Yvonne Léon’s ‘Python Gold’ Bracelet

The bracelet references vintage high jewelry and snake symbolism as a playful piece where a python’s head becomes a working belt buckle.

Stock image of handcuffs
CrimeJun 18, 2025
7 Men Indicted in $100M Brinks Jewelry Heist

The heist happened in Lebec, California, in 2022 when a Brinks truck was transporting goods from one show in California to another.

Marie-Thérèse Pink diamond and Blue Belle sapphire necklace
AuctionsJun 18, 2025
Historic ‘Marie-Thérèse Pink’ Diamond Fetches $14M at Christie’s

The 10-carat fancy purple-pink diamond with potential links to Marie Antoinette headlined the white-glove jewelry auction this week. 

Caryl Capeci Starboard Cruises
EditorsJun 18, 2025
Q&A: Caryl Capeci Dives Into Cruise Jewelry Shopping

The Starboard Cruises SVP discusses who is shopping for jewelry on ships, how much they’re spending, and why brands should get on board.

Gresham grasshopper ring
AuctionsJun 18, 2025
16th-Century ‘Gresham Grasshopper’ Ring Sells for $56K

The historic signet ring exceeded its estimate at Noonans Mayfair’s jewelry auction this week.

Kirk Kara fine jewelry
CollectionsJun 18, 2025
Kirk Kara Celebrates 135 Years With New Jewels

To mark the milestone, the brand is introducing new non-bridal fine jewelry designs for the first time in two decades.

Gemfields 36 Carat Ruby
SourcingJun 18, 2025
Gemfields Sells 36-Carat Rough Ruby

The gemstone is the third most valuable ruby to come out of the Montepuez mine, Gemfields said.

Alex Brown
TechnologyJun 18, 2025
Alex Brown Named President of Smithee Group

Founder and longtime CEO Ben Smithee will stay with the agency, transitioning into the role of founding partner and strategic advisor.

Jade Ruzzo Gloria Collar
EditorsJun 17, 2025
The Best New Jewelry from Couture 2025, Part 1

Associate Editor Natalie Francisco shares 20 of her favorite pieces from the jewelry collections that debuted at Couture.

Jewelry industry author, speaker, and sales expert Peter Smith
ColumnistsJun 17, 2025
Peter Smith: Is Your Comp Plan a Hiring Hindrance?

If you want to attract good salespeople and generate a stream of “sleeping money” for your jewelry store, then you are going to have to pay.

Selection of jewelry from Sotheby’s New York High Jewelry sale
AuctionsJun 17, 2025
Colored Gemstones, Signed Jewels Shine in Sotheby’s High Jewelry Sale

The top lot was a colorless Graff diamond, followed by a Burmese ruby necklace by Marcus & Co.

Amanda Gizzi, Jewelers of America’s SVP of corporate affairs
MajorsJun 17, 2025
Amanda Gizzi Gets a Promotion at JA

Gizzi, who has been in the industry since 2001, is now Jewelers of America’s senior vice president of corporate affairs.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy