Sourcing

Diamond Manufacturing: The Long-Term India Story Remains Intact

SourcingMar 16, 2022

Diamond Manufacturing: The Long-Term India Story Remains Intact

Investment in infrastructure, technology and talent help India consolidate its leadership in the global diamond industry.

20220305_SRK Green.png
SRK Exports embarked on its path to sustainability way back in 2011. Both of its factories are certified green buildings.
The Indian diamond industry’s transformation from a low-cost producer of star melee diamonds to an innovative, hi-tech global leader in 25 years has been phenomenal. Use of automated polishers, imaging machines, 3D digital printers, AI and cloud-based big data analytical tools have increased transparency, efficiency and productivity.
 
“Our investment in technology paid off during the pandemic. Buyers could access our online inventory and place orders. We in turn could buy rough from the miners by looking at their 3D scans”, says Rahul Jauhari, Sr. VP Global Sales & Marketing, Star Rays and core committee member of young Diamantaires.
“Understanding buyers’ needs helped us launch our own ISO certified diamond grading system. Our 360-degree HD video patented feature, Digiplot helps buyers determine a diamond’s depth and map out inclusions. The footprints that trace their diamonds’ journey from mine to market are also made available on an excel sheet,” says Shreyans Dholakia, Brand Custodian at SRK Exports.

The Indian diamond industry scores high on the Employee Experience Index as compared to the fast fashion industry. Unlike the dilapidated sweat shops of Thailand and Bangladesh with utter disregard to human lives, the diamond factories in Surat are built to last. In the closely knit diamond industry, good business practices are emulated and become accepted norms. 

“Providing free wholesome healthy food during lunch to our 5,000 employees has resulted in increased morale and productivity. Technology is an enabler that has provided a level playing field. Motivated and committed workforce is our strength in this competitive industry,” he adds.
 
More and more manufacturing companies are becoming environmentally conscious, responsible corporate citizens. Kinjal Shah, Regional Director (India & Middle East), Responsible Jewelry Council (RJC) shares that the RJC membership in India has increased by 20% during the last two years. Out of its 160 members, 60% are diamond manufacturers and 30% are jewelers. 
 
SRK Empire was inaugurated in 2011 (long before sustainability became a buzzword), achieved the LEED Gold rating in 2015, and then got enhanced to Platinum Certification status from US Green Building Council (USGBC) in 2018 – making it the “first manufacturing facility in India and the Asia region,” and also the first in the gem and jewelry sector across the world to be awarded the Platinum rating by USGBC.

SRK’s second 225,000 sq. ft. diamond crafting facility SRK House was also awarded the LEED Platinum certification by USGBC in 2020. 

20220305_Botswana resized.png
As a part of its beneficiation initiative Star Rays have set up a factory in Botswana employing women in key roles.
 
Star Rays is working towards becoming India’s first carbon-neutral diamond company, highlighting its commitment to sustainable business practices. The company is participating in the World Jewellery Confederation’s (CIBJO) Greenhouse Gas (GHG) Measuring and Offsetting Initiative to ensure that its carbon emissions and removals are measured in accordance with international standards. 

The company is spreading its wings and has set up a state-of-the-art factory in Gaborone, Botswana, hiring female employees at all possible levels to promote women empowerment.
 
20220305_fancy.png
Diamonds in fancy shapes contribute to 50% of SRK Exports’ production.
 
The top two trends prevailing in the diamond industry are:

1. Manufacturing of small diamonds (star melee) is being consolidated into the hands of a few large players due to the disruption caused by undisclosed mixing of LGDs by unethical traders. It has now become imperative for manufacturers to install synthetic detecting machines and get their goods certified. This has imposed additional costs and increased their woes as every diamond needs to be checked. The production of star melees therefore is no longer lucrative. Shreyans feels that the I1 I2 segment that is huge in the US in all probability will be replaced by the LGDs. Rather than buying diamonds of inferior clarity and color, customers would prefer to buy cleaner goods. 

Rahul however, is of the opinion that smaller, natural diamonds would retain their appeal to first-time buyers due to emotional reasons. The demand for diamond studded luxury watches is also on the rise.  The fact that prices of small diamonds have witnessed the highest rise indicates their growing demand.
 
There is also a growing demand for diamonds with fancy shapes. Rahul says that the pear and oval shapes are moving fast. Shreyans opines that the first-time buyers prefer a round diamond. However, for their subsequent purchases, they are inclined towards fancy shapes due to the novelty factor. The fact that they can buy a larger diamond at the same price adds to its allure.
 
2. With demand at an all-time high, diamond manufacturers are on a roll. Whatever is being produced today is being sold. There is a shortage of polished diamonds and the prices of rough are up by 20%. 

With economies and travel opening up, consumers now have new avenues to spend money, this may reduce diamonds’ wallet share. Consumer backlash against Russia may also prove a dampener as Alrosa’s contribution in the diamond pipeline is 30%.  

Manufacturers therefore are cautiously optimistic and hope the geopolitical tensions ease soon as war is not in anyone’s interest.

Note: This story was completed for publication in the special India Diamond Report newsletter prior to Russia’s invasion of Ukraine and the U.S.’s subsequent ban on Russian diamonds on March 11.

The Latest

My Next Question, Episode 5: Amanda Gizzi, Michelle Graff, Frank Everett
PodcastsMay 20, 2026
Episode 5: Sotheby’s Frank Everett Puts the Auction Market in Perspective

Everett covers colored stones’ surging popularity, the mellow return of the “Mellon Blue,” and his “The Devil Wears Prada” doppelgänger.

Jewelry scam flyer and police officer handing flyer to elderly man
CrimeMay 20, 2026
NYPD Warns of Jewelry Swap Scams Targeting Seniors

The NYPD is warning elderly New Yorkers to keep their jewelry hidden when walking outside to avoid being a target.

New Adornment & Theory jewelry store in West Town, Chicago
IndependentsMay 20, 2026
Adornment & Theory’s New Store Feels Like Home

Designer Viviana Langhoff has realized her dream of owning a space for her Chicago jewelry store that looks and feels like her brand.

PG-05-SHOT-2-LUCIDA.033 1.png
Brought to you by
All Eyes on Gold Prices. Alternatives to Look For. And What to BEWARE of in Vegas

As gold prices rise, today’s retailers are looking for alternatives at prices that will appeal to wider audiences.

Couture Show Logo
Events & AwardsMay 20, 2026
Here Is Couture’s 2026 Education Lineup

The sessions will run from Friday, May 29, to Sunday, May 31, with one being a live taping of an episode of Couture’s podcast.

Weekly QuizMay 14, 2026
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Morgan P. Richardson
Lab-GrownMay 20, 2026
Savannah Friedkin Jewelry Names New CEO

Former Stephanie Gottlieb Fine Jewelry executive Morgan P. Richardson is joining the lab-grown diamond jewelry brand.

Audemars Piguet x Swatch white Royal Pop watch
WatchesMay 19, 2026
Here’s the AP x Swatch Pocket Watch That Caused Pandemonium

The $400 pocket watch is a blend of Audemars Piguet’s iconic eight-sided Royal Oak and Swatch’s unserious Pop watches from the ‘80s.

1872x1052-NextGem-2026-National-Jeweler-Advertorial.jpg
Brought to you by
How Modern Training Is Becoming a Competitive Advantage for Jewelry Retailers

With the trade and customer trust in mind, GIA® developed NextGem™ – on-demand training designed specifically for retail.

Chris Ploof Modern Electrum Collection Milgrain Rows and Diamonds Ring
CollectionsMay 19, 2026
Chris Ploof’s New Collection Makes an Ancient Medal Modern

With gold prices on the rise, the “Modern Electrum” collection uses an alternative, non-tarnishing metal alloy composed of gold and silver.

Ellen and Michael Fruchtman
IndependentsMay 19, 2026
Ellen and Michael Fruchtman Retire, Sell Marketing Agency

Fruchtman Marketing has new owners, Erin Moyer-Carballea and Manuel Carballea, and will relocate to Miami.

Peter Smith and National Jeweler contributor
ColumnistsMay 19, 2026
Peter Smith: The (Mostly) Immutable Sales Truths

In a column for the 2026 State of the Majors issue, Smith lists 10 time-tested principles about sales that still ring true.

Edahn Golan, Tenoris co-founder and National Jeweler contributor
ColumnistsMay 18, 2026
Edahn Golan: What a K-Shaped Economy Means for Fine Jewelry

In a column for the 2026 State of the Majors issue, Golan spells out how the growing economic divide in the U.S. is reshaping the market.

Foundrae Limitless Expansion of Joy and Hope Collection Campaign Imagery
CollectionsMay 18, 2026
Foundrae’s New Collection Taps Into Joy

The “Limitless Expansion of Joy and Hope” collection evokes summer through colored gemstones and motifs of butterflies and florals.

Inchiquin emerald
CollectionsMay 18, 2026
Hancocks London Acquires Historic ‘Inchiquin’ Emerald

The jewel, circa 1890, is from the late Victorian era and was owned by descendants of the last high king of Ireland.

JCK Industry Fund Logo
Events & AwardsMay 18, 2026
Here Are the 2026 JCK Industry Fund Grant Recipients

This is what the nine recipients plan to do with the funds.

John Wayne Signet Ring
AuctionsMay 15, 2026
American Collector Ponies Up Almost $17K for John Wayne’s Ring

The Western star’s 14-karat gold signet ring sold for six times its low estimate following a bidding war at U.K. auction house Elmwood’s.

MJSA Education Foundation and Jewelers of America
Events & AwardsMay 15, 2026
JA, MJSA To Sponsor Roundtable at TJS

The discussion, "Rebuilding the Jewelry Workforce," will take place on Saturday, May 16, in Troy, Michigan.

Matching pair of Type IIa, D-color diamonds
AuctionsMay 14, 2026
White Diamonds Lead Sotheby’s Auction, Blue Diamond Does Not Sell

A matching pair of 18.38-carat, D-color diamonds from Botswana’s Jwaneng mine sold for $3.3 million, the top lot of the jewelry auction.

DeBeeers_Bridal_Display_Dune_1872x1052.jpg
Supplier BulletinMay 14, 2026
A Diamond Is Forever Continues Desert Diamonds – Bridal Reinvigorated

Sponsored by A Diamond Is Forever

Ocean Dream diamond
AuctionsMay 14, 2026
‘Ocean Dream’ Makes Waves at Christie’s, Fetching $17M

It was the second auction appearance for the fancy vivid blue-green diamond, which sold for $7.8 million at Christie’s Geneva 12 years ago.

Stock image of police cars with their lights on
CrimeMay 14, 2026
Second Man Arrested in Florida Pawn Shop Shooting

Members of the U.S. Marshals Task Force took a 22-year-old man into custody. He was charged with tampering with evidence.

Stock image of crime scene with police cars and crime scene tape
CrimeMay 13, 2026
JSA’s 2025 Crime Report Shows ‘Concerning’ Rise in Violence

While the overall number of crimes was down, there were more incidences in which robbers pulled out guns, mace, or rammed cars into stores.

Jack Sutton Jewelers
IndependentsMay 13, 2026
New Orleans Jeweler Closing Canal Place Store

Jack Sutton Fine Jewelry is closing its store inside the downtown shopping center after 40 years in business.

Winston Red Diamond painting by Reena Ahluwalia
SourcingMay 13, 2026
Smithsonian Acquires ‘Winston Red’ Diamond Painting

Reena Ahluwalia’s painting of the rare red diamond is the first contemporary painting to join the National Gem Collection.

Anna Maccieri Rossi Ora Wood Sunrise Cuff, Marie Lichtenberg High Jewelry Bandana, Anna Maccieri Rossi Carpe Diem Pendant
TrendsMay 13, 2026
State of Design: Only the Innovative Will Survive

The price of gold has risen, affecting the number of pieces designers make, the materials they use, and how they position themselves.

The Retail Smiths founder and National Jeweler columnist Peter Smith
ColumnistsMay 12, 2026
It’s Official: We’re Getting ‘Brain Rot’ From Watching Short-Form Videos

Peter Smith gives tips on leading meetings, developing marketing, and making trade show appointments in the age of short attention spans.

Jessica McCormack Medallion Capsule Collection Campaign
CollectionsMay 12, 2026
Jessica McCormack Debuts Antique Coin-Inspired Medallions for Summer

The 11-piece “Medallions” capsule collection features five motifs: a crying eye, a heart on fire, a spiral, a flower, and a swallow.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy