Sourcing

Joanna Hardy Completes Gemstone Trilogy with ‘Sapphire’ Book

SourcingSep 23, 2021

Joanna Hardy Completes Gemstone Trilogy with ‘Sapphire’ Book

It’s the follow-up to “Emerald” and “Ruby.”

20210923_Sapphire-3 NEW.jpg
Bina Goenka’s Ikebana cuff, 2020, depicting a blossoming branch that twists around the wrist, set with colored diamonds, pearls, conch pearls, emeralds, and flowers of 22.16 carats of sapphires of every color. (Bina Goenka)
New York—In time for holiday gifting, the perfect book for jewelry lovers is out this fall.

Published by Thames & Hudson, in association with Violette Editions in partnership with Gemfields, “Sapphire: A Celebration of Color” by Joanna Hardy completes the fine jewelry expert and author’s trilogy of gemstone books.

“Emerald” was published in 2013 and “Ruby” in 2017.

Hardy’s 30-plus year career spans many facets of the jewelry industry.

The British author started out as a goldsmith, then joined De Beers as a rough diamond valuer. She moved into the auction world when she started at Phillips in London.

She is best known for her 14-year tenure at Sotheby’s, where she was the senior jewelry specialist and auctioneer, responsible for the jewelry auctions in New York, Geneva, and London. 

20210923_Sapphire-1.jpg
“Sapphire” by Joanna Hardy and published by Thames & Hudson, in association with Violette Editions in partnership with Gemfields, is out in November. Courtesy of Thames & Hudson

In the introduction to “Sapphire” she writes: “Over the past 10 years I have travelled the globe researching for ‘Emerald,’ ‘Ruby,’ and ‘Sapphire,’ and it has been a journey I would not have missed. I see this trilogy as a global team effort, and I count myself incredibly lucky to have met people who have shared their stories with me and to have worked with the ever-helpful world brands, auction houses, cutters, miners, goldsmiths, designers and historians who have generously shared their knowledge with me.

“I am often asked what my favorite stone is, and my reply has always been I love the best of any gemstone; but, since writing this book, I think my heart has been won by the sapphire of many colors.”

As with her previous books, Hardy explores the sapphire through several lenses.

She begins by delving into early sapphire trading that brought the stone found in Sri Lanka, Myanmar, Cambodia, Thailand, Vietnam, Ethiopia, and France (and more locations like Montana and Madagascar since) worldwide, sharing images of ancient and antique jewelry styles featuring the stone.

Moving through history, Hardy notes sapphire’s notable moments, across cultures and continents, like carved sapphire cameos and even statues, originating from Asia and Europe.

20210923_Sapphire-header.jpg
A transformable headband/collier de chien, c. 1921, by maker Michel Ballada for Chaumet, and set with seven oval cabochon Ceylon sapphires, graduating in size—the largest weighing 47.34 carats—along three diamond-set lines and within crescent-shaped surrounds. An 8.20-carat sugarloaf sapphire decorates the clasp. Private collection / Courtesy of Albion Art Jewellery Institute, Japan.

An entire chapter is dedicated to sapphires in royal jewelry, featured in a number of crowns for European royalty, as well as jewelry worn by members of their respective courts.

The extensive accounting of important royal sapphires spans to modern monarchs, like Queen Elizabeth II, and even the blue sapphire engagement ring Prince Charles gave to the late Princess Diana that their son, Prince William the Duke of Cambridge, subsequently gave to his wife, the Duchess of Cambridge.

“Sapphire” also explores some of the most enduring jewelry designers to have worked with the stone, particularly in the 20th century, like Louis Comfort Tiffany, Jacques Cartier, and other members of the Cartier family.

Jewelry houses like Boucheron and Van Cleef & Arpels and some of their most spectacular pieces are also highlighted.

Other makers such as Suzanne Belperron and Oscar Heyman are highlighted in this wide-sweeping account that reads like a “best of” dedicated to the namesake gemstone.

20210923_Sapphire-2.jpg
A “bib” necklace, 1940s, of cabochon sapphires interspersed with brilliant-cut diamonds by Suzanne Belperron, made by Groëné et Darde for Herz-Belperron. To achieve the effortless appearance of the color blends, Belperron is rumored to have tipped the sapphires onto a table and then carefully plotted them on the design. Courtesy of Belperron, LLC / Private collection (photo by David Behl)

One chapter even highlights the art of collecting, delving into the psyche of collectors who experience the sapphire’s “gravitational pull,” Hardy writes, naming some and leaving others anonymous. 

A chapter on 21st century design explores some of contemporary jewelry’s greatest makers, from Hemmerle, Mish Fine Jewellery, Bina Goenka, Silvia Furmanovich, Mellerio, and current pieces from Cartier and Chaumet.

“Sapphire” will present something new to even the most seasoned colored gemstone afficionado. 

It will be available through booksellers like Amazon on Nov. 9.
Ashley Davisis the senior editor, fashion at National Jeweler, covering all things related to design, style and trends.

The Latest

Pope Francis
Policies & IssuesMay 14, 2025
Here’s What Happened to Pope Francis’ Ring

Before Pope Leo XIV was elected, a centuries-old procedure regarding the late pontiff’s ring was followed.

1998 Cosmograph Daytona, Ref.16516 Rolex
AuctionsMay 14, 2025
Custom Rolex Pulled From Sotheby’s Sale

The one-of-a-kind platinum Rolex Cosmograph Daytona was estimated to fetch up to $1.7 million.

Jeweler Constance Polamalu at Bloomstone, a store that specializes in lab-grown diamonds
Lab-GrownMay 14, 2025
State of Diamonds: What’s Next for Lab-Grown Diamonds?

While the product has entrenched itself in the market, retailers and consultants are assessing the next phase of the category’s development.

antique_Vegas_2024_by_headshot_stories_9454.jpg
Brought to you by
Las Vegas Antique Jewelry & Watch Show: Showcasing the Most Collectible Merchandise from Across the Globe

Gain access to the most exclusive and coveted antique pieces from trusted dealers during Las Vegas Jewelry Week.

Surveillance footage Tiffany & Co. Seattle robbery
CrimeMay 14, 2025
Seattle Detectives Seek Public’s Help in Tiffany & Co. Robberies

The police are trying to identify the man suspected of robbing two Tiffany & Co. locations in the area.

Weekly QuizMay 08, 2025
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Jeff Corey, new chairperson of the board for the Jewelers Board of Trade
MajorsMay 14, 2025
Jeff Corey Elected Chair of JBT Board

The well-known Maine jeweler takes over for Brian Fleming and will serve a one-year term.

Foundrae Ingot Pendant
Policies & IssuesMay 14, 2025
Foundrae Donates $11K to Ethical Metalsmiths

The donation was the result of the brand’s annual Earth Day Ingot event.

Supplier Spotlight -Recorded-Webinar.png
Brought to you by
Watch: The Winston Red: GIA Examines the Smithsonian’s Newest Addition

Supplier Spotlight Sponsored by GIA

Eiseman Jewels ribbon cutting ceremony
IndependentsMay 13, 2025
Eiseman Jewels’ Renovated Dallas Store Is Bigger and Better

Located in NorthPark Center, the revamped store is nearly 2,000 square feet larger and includes the first Tudor boutique in Dallas.

Diamond Council of America
MajorsMay 13, 2025
DCA Announces New Learning Platform, Course Updates

The nonprofit has made updates to the content in its beginner and advanced jewelry sales courses.

Malyia McNaughton and Elyssa Jenkins-Pérez
MajorsMay 13, 2025
BIJC Launches New Education Fund

BIJC President Malyia McNaughton will shift roles to lead the new foundation, and Elyssa Jenkins-Pérez will succeed her as president.

Harwell Godfrey Snake Giza Ring, Foundrae Mind, Body Soul Story Necklace, Tiffany & Co. Tiffany Titan By Pharrell Williams Bracelet
TrendsMay 13, 2025
State of Jewelry Design: The Top 10 Jewelry Trends of the Past Decade

As a nod to the theme of JCK Las Vegas 2025, “Decades,” National Jeweler took a look back at the top 10 jewelry trends of the past 10 years.

Lightbox’s Reminiscence Poet earrings in 14-karat white gold with lab-grown diamonds
Lab-GrownMay 12, 2025
Lightbox to Go Dark by Summer, De Beers Says

The company plans to halt all consumer-facing activity this summer, while Lightbox factory operations will cease by the end of the year.

Stock image of shipping containers
Policies & IssuesMay 12, 2025
Tariffs on Chinese Imports Temporarily Slashed as U.S.-China Reach Deal

Following weekend negotiations, the tax on Chinese goods imported into the United States will drop by 115 percent for the next 90 days.

Artists’ Jewelry: From Cubism to Pop, the Diane Venet Collection
Events & AwardsMay 12, 2025
Jewelry By Picasso, Dalí on Display at Florida Art Museum

“Artists’ Jewelry: From Cubism to Pop, the Diane Venet Collection” is on view at the Norton Museum of Art through October.

2025 CASE Award Submission Graphic
Events & AwardsMay 12, 2025
CASE Awards Now Accepting Entries For 2025

The deadline to submit is June 16.

Lugano Diamonds store in Greenwich, Connecticut
IndependentsMay 09, 2025
Lugano Diamonds CEO Resigns Amid Internal Investigation

Moti Ferder stepped down Wednesday and will not receive any severance pay, parent company Compass Diversified said.

Coeur Percé Scapular Necklace and Love Baby Locket
CollectionsMay 09, 2025
Pieces of the Week: Marie Lichtenberg’s Collaborations for Mother’s Day

Lichtenberg partnered with luxury platform Mytheresa on two designs honoring the connection between mothers and daughters.

Stock image of a man’s hands in handcuffs
CrimeMay 08, 2025
Former NYC Jewelry Store Employee Arrested in 2017 Choking Death of Boss

Michel Desalles allegedly murdered Omid Gholian inside World of Gold N Diamond using zip ties and then fled the country.

2025 Met Gala jewelry
EditorsMay 08, 2025
5 ‘Superfine’ Met Gala Jewelry Moments

Associate Editor Lauren McLemore shares her favorite looks from a night of style inspired by Black dandyism.

instappraise-1.png
Supplier BulletinMay 08, 2025
Instappraise Introduces Game-Changing Trifold Appraisal Format

Sponsored by Instappraise

Brilliant Earth three stone Sabine diamond engagement ring
FinancialsMay 08, 2025
Brilliant Earth Notes an Uptick in Engagement Ring Sales in Q1

CEO Beth Gerstein discussed the company’s bridal bestsellers, the potential impact of tariffs, and the rising price of gold.

Exterior of Margot McKinney Beverly Hills Location
IndependentsMay 08, 2025
Margot McKinney Lands in the U.S. With New Boutique

The brand’s first independent location outside of Australia has opened in Beverly Hills, California.

Cathy Marsh
IndependentsMay 08, 2025
Verragio Announces New Regional Sales Manager

Cathy Marsh will lead the jewelry company’s efforts in the upper Midwest and western United States.

Pandora gold and silver charm bracelet
FinancialsMay 07, 2025
Pandora Posts Strong Q1, Plans for Tariffs

The company has multiple strategies for dealing with tariffs, though its CEO said moving manufacturing to the U.S. is not one of them.

Headshot of Smart Age Solutions CEO Emmanuel Raheb
ColumnistsMay 07, 2025
The Smart Lab: Building a Seasonal Marketing Strategy for Mother’s Day and Beyond

Connecting with your customers throughout the year is key to a successful holiday marketing push.

Logo for “In the Loupe,” Punchmark’s podcast
TechnologyMay 07, 2025
Punchmark’s Latest Podcast Features a Very Special Guest

National Jeweler Editor-in-Chief Michelle Graff joined Michael Burpoe to talk tariffs, consumer confidence, and the sky-high price of gold.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy