Sourcing

This $2M Yellow Diamond Is Shrouded in Black

SourcingSep 17, 2019

This $2M Yellow Diamond Is Shrouded in Black

An artist made one of LJ West’s stones “disappear” to make statements on contrast, value and the monopolization of materials in the art world.

20190917_Redemption_of_Vanity_header.jpg
This $2 million fancy vivid yellow SI1 diamond owned by L.J. West is on display at the New York Stock Exchange until late November, but it doesn’t look anything like this.

New York—There is a $2 million diamond on display at the New York Stock Exchange right now, but you can’t really see it.

On Friday, the New York Stock Exchange and MIT opened “The Redemption of Vanity,” a work by conceptual artist Diemut Strebe that involved coating a 16.78-carat vivid yellow diamond with carbon nanotubes, muting the diamond’s color, flattening its lines and making it essentially invisible against a black background.

The stone is from the collection of L.J. West Diamonds Inc., a New York-based company that specializes in natural colored diamonds.

In an interview at the stock exchange Friday, the Boston-based Strebe said her project has numerous aspects to it, standing as a statement on contrast, value and the monopolization of materials in the art world.

There is, first, the juxtaposition of the two materials, the “unification of extreme opposites,” she said.

While both the diamond and the tubes are made of the same element, carbon, one absorbs light while the other reflects it.

The patented carbon nanotube technology used in Redemption was developed by Professor Brian Wardle and his necstlab (pronounced “next lab”) research group at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology. (Strebe is the Ida Ely Rubin Artist in Residence at MIT.)

Any object covered with CNT material is flattened out, reduced to a black silhouette, and, in the case, of a diamond, loses its sparkle.

At the New York Stock Exchange, the now-shrouded-in-black stone sits at one end of the Board Room, an opulent turn-of-the-century event space located two levels above the trading floor.

On display to the left of the diamond is a juxtaposing image indeed—a giant screen displays a rotating, 360-degree image of the 16.78-carat vivid yellow radiant-cut stone, sparkling in its polished state.

Secondly, Strebe said she wanted the work to be a statement on the arbitrary and man-made nature of value, a topic that artists—she mentioned specifically French artist Yves Klein, who once organized an exhibition that consisted of nothing but an empty room—have been creating works around for decades.


These photos by Diemut Strebe show the 16.78-carat vivid yellow before and after the introduction of the carbon nanotube material, which was applied via heating and can be removed.
In looking at The Redemption of Vanity, one might say the artist has devalued this diamond by concealing what is considered, in the diamond world at least, to be valuable about it—its

saturated and evenly dispersed color.

But, she pointed out, someone could see value in the piece as a work of art and offer to pay more for it; objects are worth what they are perceived to be worth.

“People take this man-made system [of value] as the physical laws of nature,” Strebe said, “and it is not.”

Strebe said she approached, and was rebuffed by, a number of big-name jewelers about lending her a diamond for her project before coming across the name L.J. West in an CNN article. She eventually got in touch with company President Larry West, and the longtime diamantaire readily agreed to participate.

West said he’s always had an interest in the sciences—he actually wanted to be a scientist before his father died in the early 1970s and he had to step in to help run the family business—and he also likes the questions the exhibition raises about the arbitrary nature of value.

Is the diamond worth more now, or less?


“The Redemption of Vanity” is on display at the New York Stock Exchange, which artist Diemut Strebe considers the perfect setting for a statement on value as it is an epicenter of rising, and falling, value. (Photo credit: Michelle Graff)


West chose this particular stone from his company’s vast collection because of its size—almost 17 carats—and because it had so much brightness, color and brilliance, a fitting contrast to the matte nature of the CNT material.

In addition to serving as a commentary on contrast and value, The Redemption of Vanity stands as a statement against the purchase of exclusive rights to a carbon nanotube formula for use in artwork by British sculptor Anish Kapoor (he did the sculpture in Chicago’s Millennium Park popularly known as “The Bean”).

Strebe said monopolization of materials in this manner is a “business approach” that does not have a place in art. The CNTs Wardle and Strebe created for the diamond exhibition use a different composition that’ll be available for any artist to use.

The Redemption of Vanity will be on display at the New York Stock Exchange until Nov. 25.

It is available for viewing by appointment only. To schedule one, email peter.asch@nyse.com.
Michelle Graffis the editor-in-chief at National Jeweler, directing the publication’s coverage both online and in print.

The Latest

Daymond John
Events & AwardsApr 18, 2025
Daymond John to Give Keynote at JCK Las Vegas

The entrepreneur and “Shark Tank” star will share his top tips for success.

Dukachi Easter Bread Pendant
CollectionsApr 18, 2025
Piece of the Week: Dukachi’s ‘Easter Bread’ Pendant

The Ukrainian brand’s new pendant is modeled after a traditional paska, a pastry often baked for Easter in Eastern European cultures.

Bremer Jewelry
IndependentsApr 18, 2025
Bremer Jewelry to Reveal Renovated Store

The jeweler has announced a grand reopening for its recently remodeled location in Peoria, Illinois.

gia-topimage 0325.jpg
Brought to you by
A Brilliant Future Is Here

Get online education from GIA experts.

Tiffany & Co. Strong Like Mom campaign
MajorsApr 18, 2025
Tiffany & Co. Employees Star in Mother’s Day Campaign

The “Strong Like Mom” campaign features moms who work at Tiffany & Co. and their children.

Weekly QuizApr 18, 2025
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Athena Calderone x John Hardy Collection
CollectionsApr 17, 2025
John Hardy, Athena Calderone Partner on Art Deco Decor-Inspired Collection

Interior designer Athena Calderone looked to decor from the 1920s and 1930s when crafting her first fine jewelry collection.

Movado Connect 2.0 watches
FinancialsApr 17, 2025
Movado Group to Increase Prices to Offset Tariffs Impact

During a call about its full-year results, CEO Efraim Grinberg discussed how the company is approaching the uncertainty surrounding tariffs.

bench jeweler 1872x1052.png
Brought to you by
The Heart of the Industry: Giving Bench Jewelers the Recognition They Deserve

Bench jewelers spend years honing their skills, Jewelers of America’s Certification validates their talents.

Natural Diamond Council Diamond Learning Center Graphic
Lab-GrownApr 17, 2025
NDC Launches Its Diamond Learning Center

The free program provides educational content for jewelry salespeople and enthusiasts to learn or refresh their diamond knowledge.

Jewelers of America logo
Policies & IssuesApr 17, 2025
Jewelers of America Requests Tariffs Testimonials from Members

The feedback will be used to prepare other jewelers for the challenges ahead, the organization said.

Technology Therapy Group logo
TechnologyApr 17, 2025
Technology Therapy Group Expands AI Training for Jewelry Retailers

The online sessions are designed to teach jewelers to use AI tools like ChatGPT and Claude to grow their business.

Catbird Chicago
IndependentsApr 16, 2025
Catbird Expands to Chicago

The opening marks the jewelry retailer’s first location in the Midwest.

Foundrae United in Love Campaign
CollectionsApr 16, 2025
Foundrae’s First Commitment Jewelry Collection Unites Through Love

The “United in Love” collection offers tangible mementos of hearts entwined with traditional and non-traditional commitment heirlooms.

Robert and Rose-Marie Goodman outside Robert Goodman Jewelers
IndependentsApr 16, 2025
Indiana Jeweler to Host Black Jewelry Designer Pop-Up

Robert Goodman Jewelers will hold a “Black Jewelry Designers and Makers” event on April 27.

Womens Jewelry Association WJA logo
MajorsApr 16, 2025
WJA Announces Board Members, New Chicago Chapter President

The announcements follow a tumultuous start to 2025 for WJA, which saw a wave of resignations following controversial statements about DEI.

Stock image of shipping containers
EditorsApr 15, 2025
Tariffs: What We Know Right Now

Editor-in-Chief Michelle Graff answers questions about how the new taxes levied on countries like India and China will impact the industry.

Botswana Minster of Minerals and Energy Bogolo Joy Kenewendo
EditorsApr 15, 2025
Q&A: Bogolo Joy Kenewendo on Making Deals, Marketing Diamonds

Kenewendo, Botswana’s minster of minerals and energy, discusses closing the deal with De Beers and the work that was missed along the way.

The Golconda Blue
AuctionsApr 15, 2025
23-Carat ‘Golconda Blue’ Heads to Auction

The historic fancy vivid blue diamond set to headline Christie’s Geneva sale next month could sell for up to $50 million.

Bulgari Eden the Garden of Wonders ad
FinancialsApr 15, 2025
LVMH’s Q1 Sales Slip 2 Percent

LVMH CFO Cécile Cabanis also discussed the effects of tariffs so far.

Screenshot from new Jon Hamm series on Apple TV+, Your Friends and Neighbors
CrimeApr 15, 2025
Jon Hamm Plays a Jewel Thief on Apple TV+

The “Mad Men” and “The Morning Show” star steals jewelry, art, and handbags from his wealthy neighbors in “Your Friends & Neighbors.”

Two Movado Connect 2.0 watches
FinancialsApr 14, 2025
Movado to Restate Years of Financials Due to ‘Misconduct’ in Dubai

An investigation found that the former managing director of Movado’s Dubai branch overstated and prematurely recorded sales.

Sauer Balance Earrings in Ma Campaign
CollectionsApr 14, 2025
Sauer Embraces Emptiness Through ‘Ma’ Collection

The collection pays tribute to the Japanese philosophy of Ma, studying balance, stillness, and the interplay between presence and absence.

Mari Lous Fine Jewelry
IndependentsApr 14, 2025
Illinois Jeweler Closing After 45 Years

Mari Lou’s Fine Jewelry in Orland Park, a suburb of Chicago, is closing its doors.

GIA logo
GradingApr 14, 2025
GIA Expands Overseas Services as Tariffs Kick In

GIA’s labs in Dubai and Hong Kong are now accepting larger diamonds in light of the “logistical challenges” presented by the new tariffs.

Van Cleef & Arpels Pearl and Diamond Earrings Similar to Princess Grace’s Wedding Earrings
AuctionsApr 11, 2025
Piece of the Week: A Replica of Princess Grace’s Wedding Earrings

These earrings by Van Cleef & Arpels, featuring the same design as a pair worn by Princess Grace, are up for auction at Woolley & Wallis.

My Next Question webinar graphic
Recorded WebinarsApr 11, 2025
Watch: Top Tips for Saving Time With AI

Two experts share how artificial intelligence tools can help retailers run a more efficient business.

America Telling Time: 150 Years of Bulova
WatchesApr 11, 2025
Bulova Documentary Now on Amazon Prime

“America Telling Time: 150 Years of Bulova” explores the storied history of the American watchmaker.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy