EditorsAug 27, 2025
Taylor Swift’s Engagement Ring Is a Fairy Tale for Vintage Diamond CutsThe singer’s new bling, reportedly a natural old mine-cut diamond, is no paper ring.
AuctionsMay 15, 2017
‘Bao Dai’ Rolex Sells for $5 Million, Sets Record
The rare watch that once belonged to the last emperor of Vietnam is now the most expensive Rolex ever sold at auction.
The last emperor of Vietnam, Nguyen Phuc Vinh Thuy, bought this Rolex watch in 1954 for an unknown amount. It sold for $5 million over the weekend at a watch auction in Geneva.
Geneva--Bow down to the “Bao Dai.”
The one-of-a-kind black-dialed Rolex with diamond markers at the even hours sold for $5 million Saturday at the Phillips auction held in Geneva.
That was more than three times the watch’s pre-sale estimate of $1.5 million and more than enough for the Bao Dai to leap-frog the reference 4113 “Split-Seconds” to reclaim its title as the most expensive Rolex ever sold at auction.
The 35 mm reference 6062 Bao Dai Rolex debuted at the Baselworld fair in 1950, where it was one-of-a-kind on many levels: it’s one of only three models from Rolex with a black dial and diamond markers; of those three, it’s the only one with diamonds at the even hours; and it’s the most complicated Oyster case model.
The watch was purchased in 1954 for an unknown amount by Nguyen Phuc Vinh Thuy, the last emperor of Vietnam. Thuy was granted the title of Bao Dai, or Keeper of Greatness, when he ascended to the throne in 1925 at the age of 12.
After the Bao Dai’s death, his family consigned the watch to Phillips and it sold for $235,000 in 2002, then making it the most expensive Rolex ever sold at auction.
The private collector who purchased the watch in 2002 is the one who brought it back to the auction house to be sold again.
Phillips was unavailable for immediate comment on the watch’s sale on Monday.
While the Bao Dai is now the most expensive Rolex ever sold at auction, its $5 million price tag still falls well short of the world auction record for a timepiece.
That title belongs to the Henry Graves Supercomplication, a Patek Philippe-made pocket watch that is referred to the as “Holy Grail” of watches and is said to be the most complicated watch ever made by hand. It garnered $24 million at Sotheby’s Geneva in 2014.
(The world auction record for a wristwatch belongs to the Patek Philippe Ref. 1518 in stainless steel that went for $11 million in November. Phillips also sold that watch in Geneva.)
The Bao Dai Rolex was one of the watches offered in Phillips’s Geneva watch auction, which took place Saturday and Sunday and was held in association with Bacs & Russo.
More on Auctions
The Latest
SourcingAug 27, 2025
11,685-Carat Emerald Recovered From Zambia’s Kagem MineDubbed the “Imboo,” or “buffalo,” emerald, the rough gemstone is part of Gemfields’ latest emerald auction, which is taking place now.
SurveysAug 27, 2025
Consumer Confidence Slips in August Amid Job, Income WorriesPlans for dining out, booking vacations, and buying big-ticket items were down.
Brought to you by
Rallying Call for the Jewelry Industry on Tariffs and Other Key IssuesJewelers of America is leading the charge to protect the industry amidst rising economic threats.
CollectionsAug 27, 2025
Mined + Found’s New Collection Gets Playful The “Play” collection centers on nostalgic toys that have kinetic elements to carry playfulness and wonder into adulthood.
Weekly QuizAug 22, 2025
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
CollectionsAug 26, 2025
Does Your Jewelry Stack Need a Snack?Designer Christina Puchi, the creative force behind CCWW Designs, has created charms and pendants based on iconic candies and crackers.
WatchesAug 26, 2025
Nick Jonas Gets Nostalgic in New Fossil CampaignThe Jonas Brothers star showed off new timepieces against the backdrop of his favorite spots in his home state of New Jersey.
Brought to you by
Taking the Moment Head On: How Rio Grande Champions the Present & Future of Fine JewelryAs a leading global jewelry supplier, Rio Grande is rapidly expanding and developing new solutions to meet the needs of jewelers worldwide.
IndependentsAug 26, 2025
Hinkamp Jewelers Celebrates 70 YearsThe family-owned jeweler in Fayetteville, North Carolina, is in the hands of the second generation.
ColumnistsAug 26, 2025
Back to School, Back to Style: Why August is Prime Time for Self-GiftingIn his latest column, Emmanuel Raheb shares tips for encouraging customers to treat themselves to new jewelry.
WatchesAug 25, 2025
London Jewelers Brings Rolex to Historic Hamptons HomeThe new stand-alone Rolex boutique is housed in the former Odd Fellows Hall, a landmark built in 1897.
CollectionsAug 25, 2025
Tennis Star Madison Keys Has the Perfect Necklace for the US OpenThe Brilliant Earth ambassador co-designed a diamond medallion featuring meaningful symbols.
TrendsAug 25, 2025
Amanda’s Style File: That’s a WrapWrap jewelry is more than just a trend; it’s the perfect motif for the coming season of layering, scarves, and pumpkin spice.
WatchesAug 25, 2025
WatchTime NY Show Returns for 10th Anniversary EditionThe three-day watch collector show, coming this October, will feature 44 exhibiting brands, as well as a new dinner experience.
GradingAug 22, 2025
Former Head of GIA India Promoted to Oversee Global Operations Sriram “Ram” Natarajan is now GIA’s senior vice president of laboratory operations and is based out of the lab’s headquarters in Carlsbad.
CollectionsAug 22, 2025
Piece of the Week: Retrouvaí’s ‘Diamond Vein Bond’ CollarThe one-of-a-kind collar represents the beauty of imperfection and the strength to rebuild.
MajorsAug 22, 2025
Kendra Scott Returns as CEO of Her Jewelry EmpireThree C-suite executives, including former CEO Tom Nolan, have resigned as part of what the company describes as a “transition.”
MajorsAug 21, 2025
Claire’s Finds Buyer, Could Save up to 950 StoresThe retailer, which recently filed Chapter 11, inked a deal to sell its North American business and intellectual property.
MajorsAug 21, 2025
Target Names New CEO as Sales Continue to Lag Target CEO Brian Cornell will step down in February and be replaced by the company’s chief operating officer, Michael Fiddelke.
Policies & IssuesAug 21, 2025
JA, IDMA Talk Tariffs With Execs in DC The group met with the president's senior trade advisor earlier this week to express the industry’s concerns about the effects of tariffs.
MajorsAug 21, 2025
Tiffany & Co. Pops Up at 2025 US OpenThe pop-up will display this year's Tiffany & Co. Singles Championship trophies along with a diamond-encrusted tennis racket and ball.
IndependentsAug 20, 2025
Bellman’s Jewelers Opens Second Store After COO's TikTok Takes OffThe New Hampshire-based store has expanded to Boston, propelled by the success of Alex Bellman’s TikTok page, “The Truthful Jeweler.”
CrimeAug 20, 2025
Another CA Jewelry Store Rammed With Car, RobbedThe latest incident happened Monday at a store in Oakland, California, continuing a pattern JSA first warned about last month.
WatchesAug 20, 2025
Oris Launches Watch Benefiting NYC Harbor Oyster RestorationThe new aqua green New York Harbor Limited Edition II is the watchmaker’s second collaboration with the Billion Oyster Project.
Events & AwardsAug 20, 2025
Take the Jewelers for Children ‘Trinity of Purpose’ ChallengeParticipants who attend any three Rings of Strength events will be awarded a special medal.
SourcingAug 19, 2025
Dubai’s Jemora Group Buys Diamond Miner LucapaThe investment company, founded by Dev Shetty, has acquired the struggling miner and its assets, including the Lulo mine in Angola.
ColumnistsAug 19, 2025
Peter Smith: The Arrival Fallacy and Jewelry RetailSmith shares wisdom he gleaned from a podcast he was listening to one morning while being walked by his dog, a Malshi named Sophie.
