CollectionsJun 18, 2026
Michelle Obama Wears Almasika Earrings Symbolizing Feminine PowerShe wore the “Le Cauri Endiamanté” earrings, our Piece of the Week, in the Obamas’ first dual portrait for the Obama Presidential Center.
AuctionsMay 15, 2017
‘Bao Dai’ Rolex Sells for $5 Million, Sets Record
The rare watch that once belonged to the last emperor of Vietnam is now the most expensive Rolex ever sold at auction.
The last emperor of Vietnam, Nguyen Phuc Vinh Thuy, bought this Rolex watch in 1954 for an unknown amount. It sold for $5 million over the weekend at a watch auction in Geneva.
Geneva--Bow down to the “Bao Dai.”
The one-of-a-kind black-dialed Rolex with diamond markers at the even hours sold for $5 million Saturday at the Phillips auction held in Geneva.
That was more than three times the watch’s pre-sale estimate of $1.5 million and more than enough for the Bao Dai to leap-frog the reference 4113 “Split-Seconds” to reclaim its title as the most expensive Rolex ever sold at auction.
The 35 mm reference 6062 Bao Dai Rolex debuted at the Baselworld fair in 1950, where it was one-of-a-kind on many levels: it’s one of only three models from Rolex with a black dial and diamond markers; of those three, it’s the only one with diamonds at the even hours; and it’s the most complicated Oyster case model.
The watch was purchased in 1954 for an unknown amount by Nguyen Phuc Vinh Thuy, the last emperor of Vietnam. Thuy was granted the title of Bao Dai, or Keeper of Greatness, when he ascended to the throne in 1925 at the age of 12.
After the Bao Dai’s death, his family consigned the watch to Phillips and it sold for $235,000 in 2002, then making it the most expensive Rolex ever sold at auction.
The private collector who purchased the watch in 2002 is the one who brought it back to the auction house to be sold again.
Phillips was unavailable for immediate comment on the watch’s sale on Monday.
While the Bao Dai is now the most expensive Rolex ever sold at auction, its $5 million price tag still falls well short of the world auction record for a timepiece.
That title belongs to the Henry Graves Supercomplication, a Patek Philippe-made pocket watch that is referred to the as “Holy Grail” of watches and is said to be the most complicated watch ever made by hand. It garnered $24 million at Sotheby’s Geneva in 2014.
(The world auction record for a wristwatch belongs to the Patek Philippe Ref. 1518 in stainless steel that went for $11 million in November. Phillips also sold that watch in Geneva.)
The Bao Dai Rolex was one of the watches offered in Phillips’s Geneva watch auction, which took place Saturday and Sunday and was held in association with Bacs & Russo.
Editors' Picks
Sponsored by
More on Auctions
The Latest
PodcastsJun 17, 2026
Episode 6: Las Vegas 2026-Trends, Traffic, Broken BathroomsCouture’s Michelle Orman joins Amanda Gizzi and Michelle Graff for this special post-Market Week episode of My Next Question.
GradingJun 17, 2026
SSEF Issues Warning on Refilled EmeraldsThe lab is seeing emeralds with filler added post-testing enter the market, accompanied by reports that indicate little to no treatment.
Brought to you by
Wedding Band Trends 2026: Personalization Takes Center StageColored gemstones, artisan finishes, mixed metals, and meaningful details are shaping demand in bridal jewelry.
WatchesJun 17, 2026
Patek Philippe’s ‘Visionary’ Leader Philippe Stern Dies at 88 The third generation of the Stern family to head Patek Philippe, he navigated the “quartz crisis” and preserved the brand’s independence.
Weekly QuizJun 17, 2026
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
MajorsJun 17, 2026
James Avery to Revamp In-Store Retail ExperienceThe Texas-based jeweler is gradually rolling out a new experience-forward layout in its stores.
MajorsJun 17, 2026
Seahawks’ Super Bowl Ring Blends Meaningful Design, Technical CraftsmanshipThe Super Bowl LX champions were honored with diamond and blue sapphire rings by Jason of Beverly Hills.
Brought to you by
Building the Future of Jewelry Retail: DCA Expands Education, Leadership Development, and Workforce SolutionsDCA is preparing the next generation of professionals by supporting workforce development, leadership growth, and career advancement.
Policies & IssuesJun 17, 2026
Community for Ethical Jewelry Names New Executive DirectorMarianna Smirnova previously spent a decade working with the Responsible Minerals Initiative, in addition to other relevant roles.
MajorsJun 16, 2026
5 Things to Know About the 2026 NBA Championship TrophyThe New York Knicks took home the Larry O'Brien Trophy crafted by Tiffany & Co.
TrendsJun 16, 2026
Post-Vegas Jewelry Trend Report: Big Beads, Western Flair, White MetalsAssociate Editor Natalie Francisco lists the trends she spotted during Jewelry Market Week that will dominate the second half of 2026.
SourcingJun 16, 2026
GemGuide Updates Ruby PricesIts app now reflects increased prices for Mozambique ruby, as well as changes to its Burma ruby charts.
MajorsJun 16, 2026
Sasha Primak Hires New Design DirectorThe manufacturer has tapped Alicia Arnold, the former director of custom design at Tiny Jewel Box.
IndependentsJun 15, 2026
DeBoulle Diamond & Jewelry to Renovate Dallas FlagshipThe revamped, elevated space will feature a two-story Patek Philippe atelier and a rooftop patio for parties.
WatchesJun 15, 2026
G-Shock, Coca-Cola Partner on Bottle-Inspired WatchThe special-edition piece marks the 140th anniversary of the iconic beverage brand.
TrendsJun 15, 2026
Amanda’s Style File: Tiny Charms Are TrendingHere are 13 small charms to inspire your layered looks this summer.
CollectionsJun 12, 2026
Chouette Designs To Launch Collection Celebrating All Types of LoveOur Pride Month Piece of the Week, the “Margaux” ring, is part of the wife-and-wife team’s new “Lovestoned” collection.
Events & AwardsJun 12, 2026
CBG Announces Plans for Phoenix ShowThe group has named the keynote speaker and announced a new pavilion for its next event, which is slated for September.
EditorsJun 11, 2026
This Was the Best Animal Jewelry in Las Vegas From lions and hippos to snails and fish, Senior Editor Lenore Fedow wrangles her picks for cutest jewelry critters in Las Vegas.
SourcingJun 11, 2026
Grandview Klein, London Jewelers Partner To Cut 63-Carat RoughThe big stone will be fashioned into a 20.26-carat diamond in celebration of the retailer’s 100th anniversary this year.
MajorsJun 11, 2026
Former Cartier Creative Director To Head Chanel’s Jewelry Creation StudioMarie-Laure Cérède will join Chanel as the new director of its jewelry creation studio, starting in October.
Lab-GrownJun 11, 2026
Smiling Rocks’ ‘Wish Jar’ Generates 100+ Wishes in Las Vegas At the JCK show, the lab-grown diamond brand teamed up with Jewelers for Children to support Make-A-Wish India.
SourcingJun 11, 2026
Signet Jewelers Exec Joins Diamonds Do Good BoardIlana McCabe is Signet’s vice president of public relations and brand communications.
AuctionsJun 10, 2026
31.62-Carat ‘Azure Blue’ Diamond Sells For $8M+ at Christie’sIt was a banner day for blue gemstones, with another blue diamond topping $8 million and a 41-carat sapphire going for $2.3 million.
MajorsJun 10, 2026
Saks Global Receives Bankruptcy Court Approval for ReorganizationThe approval means the retailer is on track to exit bankruptcy proceedings this summer.
CrimeJun 10, 2026
2 Suspects Arrested in Texas Jewelry Store RobberyThe men are believed to be part of the group of several masked suspects that robbed Marc Robinson Jewelers in April.
CollectionsJun 10, 2026
Sylvie Debuts ‘Elevated’ Bridal Collection Inspired By Designer’s RingThe bridal-focused brand is also launching its Custom Atelier this summer, a digital custom design tool for its authorized retailers.
