Auctions

‘Bao Dai’ Rolex Sells for $5 Million, Sets Record

AuctionsMay 15, 2017

‘Bao Dai’ Rolex Sells for $5 Million, Sets Record

The rare watch that once belonged to the last emperor of Vietnam is now the most expensive Rolex ever sold at auction.

20170403_Rolex-Bao-Dai.jpg
The last emperor of Vietnam, Nguyen Phuc Vinh Thuy, bought this Rolex watch in 1954 for an unknown amount. It sold for $5 million over the weekend at a watch auction in Geneva.

Geneva--Bow down to the “Bao Dai.”

The one-of-a-kind black-dialed Rolex with diamond markers at the even hours sold for $5 million Saturday at the Phillips auction held in Geneva.

That was more than three times the watch’s pre-sale estimate of $1.5 million and more than enough for the Bao Dai to leap-frog the reference 4113 “Split-Seconds” to reclaim its title as the most expensive Rolex ever sold at auction.

The 35 mm reference 6062 Bao Dai Rolex debuted at the Baselworld fair in 1950, where it was one-of-a-kind on many levels: it’s one of only three models from Rolex with a black dial and diamond markers; of those three, it’s the only one with diamonds at the even hours; and it’s the most complicated Oyster case model.

The watch was purchased in 1954 for an unknown amount by Nguyen Phuc Vinh Thuy, the last emperor of Vietnam. Thuy was granted the title of Bao Dai, or Keeper of Greatness, when he ascended to the throne in 1925 at the age of 12.

After the Bao Dai’s death, his family consigned the watch to Phillips and it sold for $235,000 in 2002, then making it the most expensive Rolex ever sold at auction.  

The private collector who purchased the watch in 2002 is the one who brought it back to the auction house to be sold again.

Phillips was unavailable for immediate comment on the watch’s sale on Monday.

While the Bao Dai is now the most expensive Rolex ever sold at auction, its $5 million price tag still falls well short of the world auction record for a timepiece.

That title belongs to the Henry Graves Supercomplication, a Patek Philippe-made pocket watch that is referred to the as “Holy Grail” of watches and is said to be the most complicated watch ever made by hand. It garnered $24 million at Sotheby’s Geneva in 2014.

(The world auction record for a wristwatch belongs to the Patek Philippe Ref. 1518 in stainless steel that went for $11 million in November. Phillips also sold that watch in Geneva.)

The Bao Dai Rolex was one of the watches offered in Phillips’s Geneva watch auction, which took place Saturday and Sunday and was held in association with Bacs & Russo.

Michelle Graffis the editor-in-chief at National Jeweler, directing the publication’s coverage both online and in print.

The Latest

Merle, Juanita, and Brent Staats of Staats Jewelers
IndependentsMay 11, 2026
Kansas Jeweler Closing After 70 Years

The owners of Staats Jewelers are heading into retirement.

Former Macy’s CEO Jeffrey Gennette
TrendsMay 11, 2026
Former Macy’s CEO Joins Signet Jewelers Board

Jeffrey Gennette, who retired in 2024 after 41 years with Macy’s, is the newest member of the jewelry retailer’s board of directors.

Buddha Mama gold earrings hexagon emerald
TrendsMay 11, 2026
Amanda’s Style File: Lucky May

May babies are lucky to have emeralds, a gemstone admired for centuries, as their birthstone, writes Amanda Gizzi.

1872x1052-NextGem-2026-National-Jeweler-Advertorial.jpg
Brought to you by
How Modern Training Is Becoming a Competitive Advantage for Jewelry Retailers

With the trade and customer trust in mind, GIA® developed NextGem™ – on-demand training designed specifically for retail.

Clientbook Logo
TechnologyMay 11, 2026
Clientbook’s New Tool Helps Jewelers Plan In-Store Events

The new module allows retailers to plan, promote, and measure the success of events from a single dashboard.

Weekly QuizMay 07, 2026
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Pandora lab grown diamond necklace
Lab-GrownMay 08, 2026
NDC Publicly Criticizes Pandora Over ‘Misleading’ Natural Diamond Claims

NDC said in an open letter that Pandora’s statements about the carbon footprint of lab grown versus natural diamonds are inaccurate.

Ronnie VanderLinden and Feriel Zerouki
SourcingMay 08, 2026
Ronnie VanderLinden Takes Over as WDC President

The diamantaire and industry leader succeeds Feriel Zerouki and said he will focus on being a “champion” for natural diamonds.

Antique Jewelry & Watch Show
Brought to you by
Discover Timeless Treasures: A Showcase of Antique Jewelry & Timepieces in Las Vegas

Gain access to the most exclusive and coveted antique pieces from trusted dealers during Las Vegas Jewelry Week.

Glenn Spiro Old Moghul Golconda Earrings
TrendsMay 08, 2026
Rihanna Chooses ‘Desert Diamonds’ for 2026 Met Gala

She wore our Piece of the Week, Glenn Spiro’s “Old Moghul Golconda” earrings, featuring fancy brown-yellow diamonds totaling 51.90 carats.

Kennedy’s Jewelers tourmaline necklace
Events & AwardsMay 08, 2026
JA Announces 2026 CASE Award Winners

Two pieces were named “Best in Show,” one from the retail category and one from the supplier category.

Brilliant Earth Jane Goodall olive branch necklace and earrings
FinancialsMay 07, 2026
Brilliant Earth Appeals to Higher-Income Shoppers in Q1

The jewelry retailer noted resilience among its higher-end customers while demand softened for its lower-priced offerings.

Billy Welshoff
MajorsMay 07, 2026
Gannon & Scott Names New Regional Account Executive

In his new role, sales specialist Billy Welshoff will focus on the eastern United States.

José Gaztelu
WatchesMay 07, 2026
Chrono24 Names New CEO

José Gaztelu has been promoted to the role, which has been vacant since last year.

Jewelers of America Logo
Events & AwardsMay 07, 2026
JA Accepting Applications for 2026 Scholarship Program

It has also opened the application period for the Seymour & Evelyn Holtzman Bench Scholarship through June 30.

White and yellow rough diamonds from the Ekati Diamond Mine
SourcingMay 06, 2026
Canada’s Oldest Diamond Mine Faces Uncertain Future

The owner of the Ekati mine, which opened in 1998, has filed for insolvency protection amid the significant decline in diamond prices.

Pandora lab grown diamond rings
FinancialsMay 06, 2026
Pandora to Add Carbon Footprint Info to Lab-Grown Diamonds

The company announced the change alongside its Q1 results, which showed that the jewelry brand’s year is off to a shaky start.

Saks Fifth Avenue door sign
MajorsMay 06, 2026
Saks Global Begins Layoffs, Reorganization Plans Closer to Approval

The retailer will cut 16 percent of its corporate workforce as part of its plan to exit bankruptcy.

Met Gala 2026 Beyonce, Lisa Manobal, Hailey Bieber
EditorsMay 05, 2026
This Ohio Designer’s Jewelry Made It to the Met Gala

Megan Piccione dressed Lauren Wasser in layers of diamond jewelry, making her stand out in a crowd that included celebrities like Beyoncé.

Doug Hucker
SourcingMay 05, 2026
Doug Hucker Returns to His Roots

Following decades of association leadership, the “semi-retired” colored gemstone expert is turning his focus to gemstone education.

New York City FC winning the Philip F. Anschutz MLS Cup Trophy in 2021
Events & AwardsMay 05, 2026
AMNH to Showcase Famous Jewelry, Trophies in Sports History

The museum’s new exhibition will feature one of Jesse Owen’s Olympic medals, Yogi Berra’s crown, Super Bowl rings, and more.

Exhibitor at JIS
Events & AwardsMay 05, 2026
JIS Launches Brand Exposure Program

The new program provides access to media exposure and editorial opportunities for exhibitors and retailers.

Melanie Georgacopoulos Eclipse Collection Campaign Imagery
CollectionsMay 04, 2026
Melanie Georgacopoulos Turns Pearls Into Light for ‘Eclipse’ Collection

The “Eclipse” jewelry collection captures the fleeting moment where light and shadow align though onyx, diamonds, and freshwater pearls.

National Jeweler columnist Sherry Smith, partner at The Retail Smiths
ColumnistsMay 04, 2026
The Key Mindset for Better Trade Show Buying

Buying discipline at trade shows starts with clarity about your inventory levels, Smith writes.

Mugshot of 20-year-old Landen Julian Ballard of Vero Beach, Florida
CrimeMay 04, 2026
Pawn Shop Manager Shot, Killed in Florida

Lazaro Rodriguez Vega was murdered inside Cash Out Gold and Silver in Fort Pierce. A 20-year-old man has been charged in the case.

Gild Zadok, Segev Zadok, and Jonathan Zadok at Austin park
IndependentsMay 04, 2026
Zadok Jewelers, Austin Parks Foundation Support Wildflower Preservation

A portion of every engagement ring sold in its Austin showroom will support the care and preservation of Austin’s wildflowers and green spaces.

Gemist new retailer offering
TechnologyMay 01, 2026
Gemist, Saban Onyx Partner on Retailer-Focused Customization Offering

Their partnership combines Gemist’s customization technology with Saban Onyx’s U.S.-based manufacturing capabilities.

Hand putting gas pump in car
SurveysMay 01, 2026
Consumer Confidence Inches Up in April Despite Rising Gas Prices

Respondents were concerned about the Middle East conflict and how it will impact their finances.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy