Auctions

‘Bao Dai’ Rolex Sells for $5 Million, Sets Record

AuctionsMay 15, 2017

‘Bao Dai’ Rolex Sells for $5 Million, Sets Record

The rare watch that once belonged to the last emperor of Vietnam is now the most expensive Rolex ever sold at auction.

20170403_Rolex-Bao-Dai.jpg
The last emperor of Vietnam, Nguyen Phuc Vinh Thuy, bought this Rolex watch in 1954 for an unknown amount. It sold for $5 million over the weekend at a watch auction in Geneva.

Geneva--Bow down to the “Bao Dai.”

The one-of-a-kind black-dialed Rolex with diamond markers at the even hours sold for $5 million Saturday at the Phillips auction held in Geneva.

That was more than three times the watch’s pre-sale estimate of $1.5 million and more than enough for the Bao Dai to leap-frog the reference 4113 “Split-Seconds” to reclaim its title as the most expensive Rolex ever sold at auction.

The 35 mm reference 6062 Bao Dai Rolex debuted at the Baselworld fair in 1950, where it was one-of-a-kind on many levels: it’s one of only three models from Rolex with a black dial and diamond markers; of those three, it’s the only one with diamonds at the even hours; and it’s the most complicated Oyster case model.

The watch was purchased in 1954 for an unknown amount by Nguyen Phuc Vinh Thuy, the last emperor of Vietnam. Thuy was granted the title of Bao Dai, or Keeper of Greatness, when he ascended to the throne in 1925 at the age of 12.

After the Bao Dai’s death, his family consigned the watch to Phillips and it sold for $235,000 in 2002, then making it the most expensive Rolex ever sold at auction.  

The private collector who purchased the watch in 2002 is the one who brought it back to the auction house to be sold again.

Phillips was unavailable for immediate comment on the watch’s sale on Monday.

While the Bao Dai is now the most expensive Rolex ever sold at auction, its $5 million price tag still falls well short of the world auction record for a timepiece.

That title belongs to the Henry Graves Supercomplication, a Patek Philippe-made pocket watch that is referred to the as “Holy Grail” of watches and is said to be the most complicated watch ever made by hand. It garnered $24 million at Sotheby’s Geneva in 2014.

(The world auction record for a wristwatch belongs to the Patek Philippe Ref. 1518 in stainless steel that went for $11 million in November. Phillips also sold that watch in Geneva.)

The Bao Dai Rolex was one of the watches offered in Phillips’s Geneva watch auction, which took place Saturday and Sunday and was held in association with Bacs & Russo.

Michelle Graffis the editor-in-chief at National Jeweler, directing the publication’s coverage both online and in print.

The Latest

Stock image of a Shell gas station
SurveysApr 01, 2026
Consumers’ Outlook Improves Again in March

The Conference Board’s Consumer Confidence Index edged up, with optimism about the present outweighing worries about the future.

Zach Bear and the Window Necklace Children’s Book from Zachary’s Jewelers
IndependentsApr 01, 2026
Zachary’s Jewelers’ Constance Polamalu to Release Children’s Book

The retailer’s Zach Bear gift comes to life in “Zach Bear and the Window Necklace,” which centers on curiosity, bravery, and helping.

Pandora and Foundrae medallion jewelry
MajorsApr 01, 2026
Foundrae Sues Pandora for Allegedly Copying Its Medallion Designs

Foundrae also accused the jewelry giant of copying its mood board style of marketing.

GIA iD100®
Brought to you by
Protect Your Customers and Your Business

You deserve to know what you are selling–to protect your customers as well as your business and your reputation.

Accredited Gemologists Association Logo
Events & AwardsApr 01, 2026
AGA Opens 2026 Gemological Scholarship, Research Grant Applications

Applications are open for the AGA Gemological Scholarship Program through May 15, and until June 2027 for the Gemological Research Grant.

Weekly QuizMar 26, 2026
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
National Jeweler columnist and Smart Age founder and CEO Emmanuel Raheb
ColumnistsMar 31, 2026
Q1 Clues That Reveal Where Your Jewelry Store’s Sales Are Heading

These customer behavior patterns say a lot about how successful your jewelry store is going to be this year, Emmanuel Raheb writes.

Mejuri Puzzle Collection Campaign Imagery
CollectionsMar 31, 2026
Mejuri Adds Silver to ‘Puzzle’ Collection

Mejuri’s popular collection of 18-karat yellow gold vermeil rings debuted in sterling silver alongside new “Puzzle” slider charms.

TopImageCrop.jpg
Brought to you by
Is This You? Every Jeweler Has This Problem; We Have the Solution.

Every jeweler faces the same challenge: helping customers protect what they love. Here’s the solution designed for today’s jewelry business.

Ashley Longshore in Buddha Mama jewelry
CollectionsMar 31, 2026
Buddha Mama, Ashley Longshore to Host Pop-Up in Dallas

The Miami-based jewelry brand and the NYC-based artist will be in Dallas from April 9-11.

Natural Diamond Council world diamond day
SourcingMar 31, 2026
NDC Designates April 8 as 'World Diamond Day'

The initiative invites those in the industry to share stories on social media highlighting the meaning and impact of natural diamonds.

Jillian Wolk, the new CEO of Tracr
SourcingMar 31, 2026
GIA VP Jillian Wolk to Take Over at Tracr

Wolk’s first day on the job as CEO of Tracr, De Beers Group’s blockchain platform, will be May 1.

Tom Moses examining the “Motswedi” diamond
EditorsMar 30, 2026
Tom Moses Looks Back on His Decades at GIA

Moses, who will leave the lab in May after nearly 50 years, discusses his start in the business, gemstones that stand out, and what’s next.

Oscar Heyman Spring Catalog Aquamarine and Diamond Necklace and Platinum Opal, Sapphire, Emerald, Diamond Bracelet
TrendsMar 30, 2026
Oscar Heyman Debuts First Spring Catalog

The new catalog, which showcases 35 one-of-a-kind pieces of jewelry, is a compliment to the company’s popular holiday catalog.

Diavik Diamond Mine winter aerial shot
SourcingMar 30, 2026
Rio Tinto Hauls Last Load from Diavik

Production has ceased at the Canadian diamond mine, which has yielded more than 150 million carats of rough diamonds in its 23-year run.

Tanishq Westborough Massachusetts store
MajorsMar 30, 2026
Tanishq Opens First New England Location

The store opening marks the 10th United States location for the India-based jewelry retailer.

Saks Fifth Avenue door sign
MajorsMar 27, 2026
Saks Global Has Changed Its Mind About Closing These 3 Stores

Two Saks Fifth Avenue locations, one in Florida and one in California, and one Neiman Marcus store are off the chopping block.

Jimmy West celebrating 40 years with Leading Jewelers Guild
IndependentsMar 27, 2026
Jimmy West, Longtime LJG Executive Director, Dies at 72

West, who started in the art department at the Leading Jewelers Guild in 1979, is remembered for his patience, kindness, and dedication.

Itä Yari Whirl Ring Tesoro
CollectionsMar 27, 2026
Itä’s ‘Yarí Whirl’ Ring Tells Every Side of the Story

In the “Tesoro” version of the ring, our Piece of the Week, each side of the gold hexagonal nugget has a unique colored gemstone design.

Citizen Watch America President Jeffrey Cohen
WatchesMar 26, 2026
Q&A: Citizen Watch America President Jeffrey Cohen on Eco-Drive’s 50th Anniversary

Cohen discusses the evolution of Citizen’s light-powered technology, the brand’s cross-generational appeal, and tariffs.

Peter Smith Essentially Human: On Sales and Salespeople
IndependentsMar 26, 2026
Peter Smith Pens Book on Human Behavior in Sales

“Essentially Human: On Sales and Salespeople" reveals the underlying human traits and behaviors of the most successful sales professionals.

Lionheart Cassandane Collection Campaign
CollectionsMar 26, 2026
Lionheart Celebrates 13 Years of ‘Cassandane’

The collection features symbols of love, luck, and light, based on the story of Queen Cassandane and Cyrus the Great of Persia.

Instappraise NAJA
Events & AwardsMar 26, 2026
NAJA, Instappraise Introduce New Scholarship

It’s the third scholarship to be launched as part of the partnership to help appraisers advance their professional credentials.

CASE Awards Graphic
Events & AwardsMar 26, 2026
JA Still Accepting Entries for 2026 CASE Awards

The deadline for entries in the jewelry design competition has been extended to April 3.

Industry journalist Rob Bates
SourcingMar 25, 2026
Rob Bates Steps Down as JCK News Director

After 28 years with JCK, the veteran industry journalist is launching his own publication on Substack called The Jewelry Wire.

AMNH Beryl
GradingMar 25, 2026
New York’s Natural History Museum, Wiley To Build Minerals Database

Wiley said the project will give scientists worldwide access to the American Museum of Natural’s History renowned mineral collection.

Boochier Flower Puff Campaign
CollectionsMar 25, 2026
Boochier Turns Flower Friendship Bracelets Into Fine Jewelry

The “Flower Puff” collection looks to beaded flower friendship bracelets from childhood, turning the silhouette into nostalgic fine jewelry.

Community for Ethical Jewelry logo
Policies & IssuesMar 25, 2026
Community for Ethical Jewelry to Host Bench Jeweler Shortage Webinar

Set for April 2, the webinar will discuss how the jewelry industry can address the workforce gap.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy