The new pink sapphire version of the piece dances with its wearer in the brand’s “Icons After Dark” holiday campaign.
The Rolex That Might Sell for More Than $2.5M
The coveted, black-dialed “Bao Dai” returns to auction next month in Geneva and could become the most expensive Rolex ever sold at auction.

Geneva--A rare Rolex with a historically significant backstory could become the most expensive watch from the brand ever sold at auction when it goes under the hammer in Geneva next month.
The 35 mm reference 6062 “Bao Dai” Rolex made its debut at Baselworld in 1950, and the watch lays claims to its fair share of “onlys”--it’s one of only three models from Rolex with a black dial and diamond markers; of those three, it’s the only one with diamonds at the even hours; and it’s the most complicated Oyster case model ever made by Rolex, featuring day, date, month and moonphase indications.
And, like any great piece of jewelry or watch that’s bound to stir up aggressive bidding at auction, the Bao Dai also has a fantastic back story.
The Bao Dai bought this Rolex in Geneva in 1954 when he was in town attending the Geneva Conference, the meeting that resulted in the Geneva Accords, which brought an end to the first Indochina War.
Paul Boutros, the head of Americas and senior vice president for Bacs & Russo, said they do not know how much the Bao Dai originally paid for this watch, as it was never sold commercially or appeared in catalogs.
(Bacs & Russo runs the watch department at Phillips; well-known watch auctioneer Aurel Bacs and his wife, watch specialist Livia Russo, re-established the department for the auction house in 2014.)
The Bao Dai died in 1997, and Boutros said that in 2002, the emperor’s family consigned the watch and it sold for $235,000 at Phillips, making it then the most expensive Rolex ever sold at auction.
The man who bought it in 2002 sold it to a private collector, and it is this collector who is bringing the watch back to Phillips for a second sale, Boutros said.
“In this era of advanced technology, where consumer products become obsolete within months, people are attracted to the enduring aspect of fine mechanical watches, which are built to last an eternity.” --Paul Boutros, Bacs & RussoWhile the watch auctioneer gives a pre-sale estimate of more than $1.5 million, watch collector Edmond Saran
That record is currently held by the Rolex reference 4113 “Split-Seconds” that Phillips sold for $2.5 million in Hong Kong last November.
When asked if he agreed with this estimate, Boutros said that while the auction house has published its estimate at more than $1.5 million, the Bao Dai Rolex “has to be considered as a serious contender to achieve a record-breaking price.”
He said like collectible cars and contemporary art, the market for collectible watches has grown at a “healthy pace” since the last time the watch was sold, in the early 2000s, hence the reason why a watch that sold for less than $300,000 fifteen years ago can be expected to go for more than $2.5 million today.
“In this era of advanced technology, where consumer products become obsolete within months, people are attracted to the enduring aspect of fine mechanical watches, which are built to last an eternity,” Boutros said.
Phillips is auctioning off the Bao Dai, along with a number of other vintage Rolexes, at Geneva’s Hôtel La Réserve on May 13 and 14, holding the sale in association with Bacs & Russo.
Online bidding will be available for all those registered to bid and vetted by Phillips prior to the sale.
More on the other watches being offered can be found on the Phillips website.
The Latest

A choice that’s generated a lot of commentary, Pantone says “Cloud Dancer” marks a fresh start and encourages relaxation and creativity.

The manufacturer’s holiday campaign features a gift guide filled with trending designs and jewelry that can be personalized.

How Jewelers of America’s 20 Under 40 are leading to ensure a brighter future for the jewelry industry.

The man was charged with theft, accused of ingesting the necklace while in a jewelry store in Auckland, New Zealand.


The Florida independent expanded its store from 8,000 to 14,000 square feet, fulfilling the vision of its late co-founder, Jim Dunn.

Sponsored by De Beers Group

Roseco’s 704-page catalog showcases new lab-grown diamonds, findings, tools & more—available in print or interactive digital editions.

The classic 5600 series G-Shock has been scaled down to about a tenth of its size, becoming a fully functioning watch ring.

The association’s annual conference and gala will take place Feb. 4, 2026, during the Tucson gem shows.

The January show will include a workshop for jewelry retailers on implementing AI to strengthen their businesses.

Fellow musician Maxx Morando proposed to the star with a chunky, cushion-cut diamond ring designed by Jacquie Aiche.

The retailer, which sells billions in fine jewelry and watches, is suing the Trump administration and U.S. Customs and Border Patrol.

Black Friday is still the most popular shopping day over the five-day holiday weekend, as per the National Retail Federation’s survey.

The retailer offered more fashion jewelry priced under $1,000, including lab-grown diamond and men’s jewelry.

The eau de parfum is held in a fluted glass bottle that mirrors the decor of the brand’s atelier, and its cap is a nod to its “Sloan” ring.

Vivek Gadodia and Juan Kemp, who’ve been serving as interim co-CEOs since February, will continue to lead the diamond mining company.

In addition, a slate of new officers and trustees were appointed to the board.

Witt’s Jewelry in Wayne, Nebraska, is the organization’s new milestone member.

Laurs is the editor-in-chief of Gem-A’s The Journal of Gemmology and an expert on the formation of colored gemstone deposits.

The man, who has a criminal history, is suspected of being the fourth member of the four-man crew that carried out the heist.

Michael Helfer has taken the reins, bringing together two historic Chicago jewelry names.

The guide features all-new platinum designs for the holiday season by brands like Harwell Godfrey, Ritani, and Suna.

During its Q3 call, CEO Efraim Grinberg discussed the deal to lower tariffs on Swiss-made watches, watch market trends, and more.

Rosior’s high jewelry cocktail ring with orange sapphires and green diamonds is the perfect Thanksgiving accessory.

The “Embrace Your True Colors” campaign features jewels with a vibrant color palette and poetry by Grammy-nominated artist Aja Monet.

Luxury veteran Alejandro Cuellar has stepped into the role at the Italian fine jewelry brand.



















