Auctions

The Rolex That Might Sell for More Than $2.5M

AuctionsApr 03, 2017

The Rolex That Might Sell for More Than $2.5M

The coveted, black-dialed “Bao Dai” returns to auction next month in Geneva and could become the most expensive Rolex ever sold at auction.

20170403_Rolex-Bao-Dai.jpg
The Rolex “Bao Dai” is one of only three Rolexes with a black dial and diamond markers and is the only one with the markers at the even hours. The last emperor of Vietnam, the Bao Dai, bought the watch in Geneva in 1954.

Geneva--A rare Rolex with a historically significant backstory could become the most expensive watch from the brand ever sold at auction when it goes under the hammer in Geneva next month.

The 35 mm reference 6062 “Bao Dai” Rolex made its debut at Baselworld in 1950, and the watch lays claims to its fair share of “onlys”--it’s one of only three models from Rolex with a black dial and diamond markers; of those three, it’s the only one with diamonds at the even hours; and it’s the most complicated Oyster case model ever made by Rolex, featuring day, date, month and moonphase indications.

And, like any great piece of jewelry or watch that’s bound to stir up aggressive bidding at auction, the Bao Dai also has a fantastic back story.


Another shot of the Bao Dai shows more of the watch’s gold bracelet.The timepiece belonged to Nguyen Phuc Vinh Thuy, the last emperor of Vietnam who was granted the title of Bao Dai (Keeper of Greatness) when he ascended to the throne in 1925 at the age of 12.

The Bao Dai bought this Rolex in Geneva in 1954 when he was in town attending the Geneva Conference, the meeting that resulted in the Geneva Accords, which brought an end to the first Indochina War.

Paul Boutros, the head of Americas and senior vice president for Bacs & Russo, said they do not know how much the Bao Dai originally paid for this watch, as it was never sold commercially or appeared in catalogs.

(Bacs & Russo runs the watch department at Phillips; well-known watch auctioneer Aurel Bacs and his wife, watch specialist Livia Russo, re-established the department for the auction house in 2014.)

The Bao Dai died in 1997, and Boutros said that in 2002, the emperor’s family consigned the watch and it sold for $235,000 at Phillips, making it then the most expensive Rolex ever sold at auction.

The man who bought it in 2002 sold it to a private collector, and it is this collector who is bringing the watch back to Phillips for a second sale, Boutros said.

“In this era of advanced technology, where consumer products become obsolete within months, people are attracted to the enduring aspect of fine mechanical watches, which are built to last an eternity.” --Paul Boutros, Bacs & Russo
While the watch auctioneer gives a pre-sale estimate of more than $1.5 million, watch collector Edmond Saran
went a step further on his website, Le Monde Edmond, writing that the Bao Dai Rolex will sell for “a heck of a lot more” than $1.5 million and that it will, in fact, break the record for the most expensive Rolex ever sold at auction.

That record is currently held by the Rolex reference 4113 “Split-Seconds” that Phillips sold for $2.5 million in Hong Kong last November.

When asked if he agreed with this estimate, Boutros said that while the auction house has published its estimate at more than $1.5 million, the Bao Dai Rolex “has to be considered as a serious contender to achieve a record-breaking price.”

He said like collectible cars and contemporary art, the market for collectible watches has grown at a “healthy pace” since the last time the watch was sold, in the early 2000s, hence the reason why a watch that sold for less than $300,000 fifteen years ago can be expected to go for more than $2.5 million today.

“In this era of advanced technology, where consumer products become obsolete within months, people are attracted to the enduring aspect of fine mechanical watches, which are built to last an eternity,” Boutros said.  

Phillips is auctioning off the Bao Dai, along with a number of other vintage Rolexes, at Geneva’s Hôtel La Réserve on May 13 and 14, holding the sale in association with Bacs & Russo.

Online bidding will be available for all those registered to bid and vetted by Phillips prior to the sale.

More on the other watches being offered can be found on the Phillips website.
Michelle Graffis the editor-in-chief at National Jeweler, directing the publication’s coverage both online and in print.

The Latest

Nina Pugliese Henne Jewelers
IndependentsSep 29, 2025
Nina Pugliese, Longtime Henne Jewelers Employee, Dies at 65

She was remembered as a creative and generous woman of faith, who also had a sweet tooth.

Overnight volume 7 bridal catalog
MajorsSep 29, 2025
Overnight Releases New Bridal Catalog

The “Volume 7” bridal catalog features best-selling engagement rings, trending styles, and a new section highlighting anniversary bands.

Mark Henry Leandra Medine Cohen
IndependentsSep 29, 2025
Mark Henry Jewelry to Debut in Canada

The New York-based brand is set to launch a limited-time offering for the holiday season at Holt Renfrew in Toronto.

gia-edu main image.png
Brought to you by
A Brilliant Future Is Here

Online education from GIA experts.

Kwait White and Yellow Gold Diamond Earrings
TrendsSep 29, 2025
Amanda’s Style File: Ear Focus

Move over neck mess, the ear story is the way to make a layering statement today.

Weekly QuizSep 25, 2025
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Hand holding holiday shopping bags
SurveysSep 26, 2025
Online Shopping, Influencers to Drive Holiday Spending, Mastercard Says

Holiday sales growth is expected to slow as consumers grapple with inflation and tariff-related uncertainty.

Austin Shines Jewelry Award
Events & AwardsSep 26, 2025
Winners of Austin Jewelry Design Contest Announced

Jamie Turner Designs is among the winners of the local “Austin Shines” contest, hosted by Eliza Page, a jewelry store in Austin, Texas.

reDollar-fine-jewelry-department.jpg
Brought to you by
reDollar.com Is Rolling Out the Next Level Jewelry, Diamond & Watch Consignment Program

With their unmatched services and low fees, reDollar.com is challenging some big names in the online consignment world.

Kwit Square Signet Pinky Ring in Red and Azure
TrendsSep 26, 2025
Piece of the Week: Kwit Jewelry’s Square Signet Pinky Ring

The red and azure colorway is one of many fun enamel pairings offered, bringing whimsy to the classic style of a monogramed signet ring.

Jewelers of America Fly In
Policies & IssuesSep 25, 2025
JA CEO Provides Tariff Update Following Annual Fly-In

A trade deal with Switzerland seems probable, but reaching an agreement with India remains a challenge, David Bonaparte said.

Entrance to Jwaneng diamond mine in Botswana
SourcingSep 25, 2025
2 African Countries Aim to Take Stake in De Beers

Botswana’s president said his country wants a controlling share, while Angola envisions multiple countries holding minority stakes.

Kira Jewels Growing Rowing Machines
Lab-GrownSep 25, 2025
Kira Jewels Expands Lab-Grown Diamond Production

The manufacturer is adding 1,400 chemical vapor deposition (CVD) reactors to its growing facility in India.

Alex Moss SoHo store
IndependentsSep 25, 2025
Alex Moss’ New Flagship Brings Bold Jewels to SoHo

The jeweler to the stars has worked with Drake, A$AP Rocky, Tyler the Creator, and other celebrities.

Matthew Wilson, Kavin Kulamavalava, and a Elmasolvex VA
WatchesSep 25, 2025
Wilson & Son Jewelers Donates to the Horological Society of New York

The Scarsdale, New York-based jeweler donated a professional-grade watch cleaning machine.

Representatives of India’s Gem and Jewellery Export Promotion Council and Indian government leaders
Policies & IssuesSep 24, 2025
Tariffs Throw Diamond Trade Into Disarray

The 50 percent tariffs on diamonds shipped from India to the U.S. have pushed midstream manufacturers to the edge.

Father’s Day diamond advertisement that ran in India
SourcingSep 24, 2025
De Beers Adopts New Strategies to Drive Natural Diamond Demand in India

De Beers’ refreshed, multipronged approach, which includes generic promotions and retail partnerships, is delivering positive dividends.

Policies & IssuesSep 24, 2025
For Jewelry Manufacturers, Higher Tariffs Create Long-Term Worries

They are trying to balance the need to sustain well-established relationships with the pressure higher tariffs have put on margins.

Guest lecture for people with disabilities at the Jewelex factory
SourcingSep 24, 2025
A Helping Hand: An Effort to Boost Inclusivity in the Industry

Jewelry manufacturer Jewelex has partnered with JOSH, an industry training center, on a program for people with disabilities.

Greenwich St. Jewelers Estate Capsule Campaign
CollectionsSep 24, 2025
Greenwich St. Jewelers Goes Back in Time With First Estate Collection

The collection includes pieces dating back to the Victorian and Art Deco periods as well as mid-century and late 20th-century designs.

Marcus ter Haar
Policies & IssuesSep 24, 2025
Diamonds Do Good Names Marcus ter Haar as President-Elect

He previously served as co-chair of the nonprofit’s beneficiary committee.

Jane Goodall Brilliant Earth campaign
CollectionsSep 24, 2025
Brilliant Earth’s New Jane Goodall Collection Calls for Peace

Its second collaboration with the conservationist features jewelry with dove and olive branch motifs.

SRK Kriam Pharma
SourcingSep 24, 2025
SRK Launches Kriam Pharma

The diamond manufacturer’s new company will provide accessible and affordable high-quality medicines across India.

Emmanuel Raheb, CEO of Smart Age Solutions and National Jeweler columnist
ColumnistsSep 23, 2025
Quiet Luxury: What Fall’s Top Trend Means for Jewelers

Emmanuel Raheb shares tips on how a jeweler’s showcases, marketing, and social media presence can whisper, instead of shout.

Claire’s storefront
MajorsSep 23, 2025
Ames Watson Completes $140M Acquisition of Claire’s

The private equity firm has a plan to revive the mall staple.

Super Smalls Super Book of Gems, Maria Dueñas Jacobs, and Bianca Gottesman
SourcingSep 23, 2025
Super Smalls’ New Book Introduces Kids to Gems, Fine Jewelry

The “Super Book of Gems” dives into the Mohs Hardness Scale, the Four C’s, and designs from jewelers like Cartier and Bulgari.

Mattioli CEO Claudio Pasta
MajorsSep 23, 2025
Mattioli Names Kering Exec as New CEO

Claudio Pasta will take the lead at the Italian fine jewelry brand, succeeding company founder Licia Mattioli.

Monique Lhuillier fashion jewelry Kay
CollectionsSep 23, 2025
Monique Lhuillier Adds Fashion Jewelry to Kay Jewelers Line

The new lab-grown diamond jewelry offering is the latest expansion of the designer’s “Bliss” collection.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy