Auctions

The Rolex That Might Sell for More Than $2.5M

AuctionsApr 03, 2017

The Rolex That Might Sell for More Than $2.5M

The coveted, black-dialed “Bao Dai” returns to auction next month in Geneva and could become the most expensive Rolex ever sold at auction.

20170403_Rolex-Bao-Dai.jpg
The Rolex “Bao Dai” is one of only three Rolexes with a black dial and diamond markers and is the only one with the markers at the even hours. The last emperor of Vietnam, the Bao Dai, bought the watch in Geneva in 1954.

Geneva--A rare Rolex with a historically significant backstory could become the most expensive watch from the brand ever sold at auction when it goes under the hammer in Geneva next month.

The 35 mm reference 6062 “Bao Dai” Rolex made its debut at Baselworld in 1950, and the watch lays claims to its fair share of “onlys”--it’s one of only three models from Rolex with a black dial and diamond markers; of those three, it’s the only one with diamonds at the even hours; and it’s the most complicated Oyster case model ever made by Rolex, featuring day, date, month and moonphase indications.

And, like any great piece of jewelry or watch that’s bound to stir up aggressive bidding at auction, the Bao Dai also has a fantastic back story.


Another shot of the Bao Dai shows more of the watch’s gold bracelet.The timepiece belonged to Nguyen Phuc Vinh Thuy, the last emperor of Vietnam who was granted the title of Bao Dai (Keeper of Greatness) when he ascended to the throne in 1925 at the age of 12.

The Bao Dai bought this Rolex in Geneva in 1954 when he was in town attending the Geneva Conference, the meeting that resulted in the Geneva Accords, which brought an end to the first Indochina War.

Paul Boutros, the head of Americas and senior vice president for Bacs & Russo, said they do not know how much the Bao Dai originally paid for this watch, as it was never sold commercially or appeared in catalogs.

(Bacs & Russo runs the watch department at Phillips; well-known watch auctioneer Aurel Bacs and his wife, watch specialist Livia Russo, re-established the department for the auction house in 2014.)

The Bao Dai died in 1997, and Boutros said that in 2002, the emperor’s family consigned the watch and it sold for $235,000 at Phillips, making it then the most expensive Rolex ever sold at auction.

The man who bought it in 2002 sold it to a private collector, and it is this collector who is bringing the watch back to Phillips for a second sale, Boutros said.

“In this era of advanced technology, where consumer products become obsolete within months, people are attracted to the enduring aspect of fine mechanical watches, which are built to last an eternity.” --Paul Boutros, Bacs & Russo
While the watch auctioneer gives a pre-sale estimate of more than $1.5 million, watch collector Edmond Saran
went a step further on his website, Le Monde Edmond, writing that the Bao Dai Rolex will sell for “a heck of a lot more” than $1.5 million and that it will, in fact, break the record for the most expensive Rolex ever sold at auction.

That record is currently held by the Rolex reference 4113 “Split-Seconds” that Phillips sold for $2.5 million in Hong Kong last November.

When asked if he agreed with this estimate, Boutros said that while the auction house has published its estimate at more than $1.5 million, the Bao Dai Rolex “has to be considered as a serious contender to achieve a record-breaking price.”

He said like collectible cars and contemporary art, the market for collectible watches has grown at a “healthy pace” since the last time the watch was sold, in the early 2000s, hence the reason why a watch that sold for less than $300,000 fifteen years ago can be expected to go for more than $2.5 million today.

“In this era of advanced technology, where consumer products become obsolete within months, people are attracted to the enduring aspect of fine mechanical watches, which are built to last an eternity,” Boutros said.  

Phillips is auctioning off the Bao Dai, along with a number of other vintage Rolexes, at Geneva’s Hôtel La Réserve on May 13 and 14, holding the sale in association with Bacs & Russo.

Online bidding will be available for all those registered to bid and vetted by Phillips prior to the sale.

More on the other watches being offered can be found on the Phillips website.
Michelle Graffis the editor-in-chief at National Jeweler, directing the publication’s coverage both online and in print.

The Latest

Image from PGI USA Platinum Born campaign
MajorsOct 23, 2026
PGI USA Set to Close at Year’s End

The closure is part of a global restructuring that also includes PGI winding down its operations in Japan, South Korea, and Hong Kong.

Rachel Chalchinsky of Color Source Gems Survivor Tribute Ring
SourcingOct 23, 2026
Rachel Chalchinsky’s ‘Survivor Tribute’ Ring

The ring, our Piece of the Week, was designed by eight-year breast cancer survivor Rachel Chalchinsky of Color Source Gems.

Jewelers of America new logo
TechnologyOct 23, 2026
JA Unveils New Website, Logo

The website offers enhanced member benefit access, industry directories, educational resources, a job board, and access to the MJSA Journal.

DeBeersICONS_TITLE1_CUSTOMCONTENT_1872x1052 (1).jpg
Brought to you by
A Diamond Is Forever Launches 2026 Holiday Campaign Championing Natural Diamonds

A Diamond Is Forever's holiday campaign reimagines natural diamond icons for a new generation celebrating individuality.

Pomellato Paraíba high jewelry choker necklace
FinancialsOct 23, 2026
Kering’s Jewelry Sales Up Double Digits in Q3

Boucheron and Pomellato had a strong third quarter, with Kering looking at jewelry as an increasingly important part of its portfolio.

Weekly QuizOct 22, 2026
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Stock image of crime scene tape and police cars
CrimeOct 22, 2026
Jeweler Shot and Killed in His Suburban Cincinnati Store

Tara Sinchuri was the owner of Everest Jewels in Fairfield, Ohio, and a father of three. He was found dead in his store on Tuesday.

Verdura cuffs
MajorsOct 22, 2026
Neiman Marcus Has Gifts for the Jewelry Lover Who Has Everything

Bespoke experiences from Buccellati and Verdura are on the retailer’s 2026 “Fantasy Gifts” list.

lab channel btyb 0926.png
Brought to you by
Open an Account, Get $50 Off Your First Order. No Code Needed.

Built on Relationships. Refined by Craft.

JIS Fall 2026 jewelry
Events & AwardsOct 22, 2026
JIS Fall 2026 Reports Record-Breaking Attendance

The number of participants at the fall show was up 12 percent.

John Hardy Billie Eilish & Finneas Collection Campaign Imagery
CollectionsOct 22, 2026
Billie Eilish, Finneas Co-Design Collection for John Hardy

The Academy and Grammy award-winning siblings have collaborated with John Hardy on a new jewelry line inspired by their personal style.

Graphic for episode 10 of the My Next Question podcast
PodcastsOct 21, 2026
Episode 10: This Episode Is Haunted 

Diana Singer shared the stories of two “cursed” diamonds on this month’s podcast, which was inexplicably riddled with technical issues.

Gardner Collier Jewelry store in Kirksville Missouri
IndependentsOct 21, 2026
Gardner-Collier Jewelry to Close After 9 Decades in Business

The family-owned jeweler has three locations across Missouri and Iowa.

Underground shaft at the Venetia diamond mine
SourcingOct 21, 2026
Venetia Mines Final Carats Ahead of 2-Year Shutdown

The De Beers-owned diamond mine in South Africa is being put on ice as part of a round of previously announced cost-cutting measures.

Off-White Jewelry Collection Imagery
CollectionsOct 21, 2026
Helzberg, Nordstrom Carrying New Jewelry Collection From Off-White

The collection centers designs with clean geometric lines, chunky sculptural pieces, and recognizable details from the luxury fashion brand.

Gemfields rubies
SourcingOct 21, 2026
Gemfields’ Mixed-Quality Ruby Auction Earns $52M

The miner said it saw particularly strong prices for larger, fine-quality rubies at the sale.

Stock image of police cars with lights on
CrimeOct 20, 2026
Security Guard Charged With Murder in Shooting at Texas Mall

The guard opened fire on a man who was smashing a jewelry display case at La Gran Plaza in Fort Worth last week, police said.

David Gardner’s Jewelers interior
IndependentsOct 20, 2026
David Gardner’s Jewelers Unveils Newly Expanded, Revamped Showroom

The Texas jeweler added 2,000 square feet to its reimagined showroom, complete with a new design studio and an event space.

Kylie Jenner Fantasy Bra Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show
SourcingOct 20, 2026
The $50M Victoria’s Secret ‘Fantasy Bra’ By The Numbers

Jacob & Co.'s diamond masterpiece is the most expensive Fantasy Bra ever worn on the Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show runway.

Mignon Faget Atelier Collection Campaign Imagery
CollectionsOct 20, 2026
Mignon Faget’s Collection Chooses Handmade Over AI

The “Atelier” collection was inspired by the tools, rituals, and objects in an artist’s studio as a quiet rebuttal to an automated world.

 Rio Grande engagement ring and band
MajorsOct 19, 2026
The Knot to Acquire Rival Wedding Planning Platform Zola

The pending acquisition is an “exciting opportunity” for wedding vendors to grow their business, said The Knot Worldwide’s CEO.

The Secret Gems Thailand
SourcingOct 19, 2026
Jewelry Design Competition Show Airs in Thailand

"The Secret Gems" features eight Thai jewelry brands paired with a team of young craftspeople who create jewelry together to win challenges.

John Hardy Modern Talisman Collection Campaign Imagery
CollectionsOct 19, 2026
John Hardy Enters the Medallion Chat With Talisman Collection

The brand’s “Modern Talisman” capsule collection introduces pendants inspired by the mythology, natural world, and spiritual ethos of Bali.

Collage of independent jewelers celebrating their 100th anniversary in 2026
IndependentsOct 19, 2026
The Stories of 5 Jewelers Celebrating Their Centennials in 2026

Independent jewelers from New Mexico to New Jersey answer the question: What has kept your store in business for 100 years?

Hand holding shopping bags
SurveysOct 16, 2026
How Inflation, Gas Prices Will Affect Holiday Sales

The NRF is expecting holiday sales to increase this year, but consumers and retailers alike are facing Grinch-like headwinds.

Christina Puchi Gemstone Earrings
CollectionsOct 16, 2026
Christina Puchi’s Earrings Hold the Universe

Our Piece of the Week gathers the planets, represented by a variety of colored gemstones, in a pair of 14-karat yellow gold earrings.

Reeds Jewelers Fayetteville
IndependentsOct 16, 2026
Reeds Jewelers Expands, Relocates Flagship

The New York-based jeweler is moving its Amherst flagship store to a larger location in nearby Snyder.

Graff USA Executive Vice President Katy Chen
MajorsOct 16, 2026
Katy Chen Appointed Executive Vice President of Graff USA

Chen, who worked at Cartier and Tiffany & Co., will lead retail sales and operations for the luxury jeweler’s 11 U.S. stores.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy