AuctionsSep 21, 2026
Ultra-Rare Cartier Cheich Watch Sells for $3.4M Offered at Sotheby’s Hong Kong, the one-of-a-kind white gold watch now holds the title of most valuable Cartier wristwatch sold at auction.
TrendsAug 25, 2016
One to Watch: Spencer Fine Jewelry
Melissa Spencer, the recipient of the 2016 Carelle-WJA Grant, is putting her own modern spin on the personalized jewelry craze.
Melissa Spencer, the 2016 Carelle-WJA Grant winner, is putting herself on the map with a line of modern-yet-personal jewelry using proprietary Spencer Portrait gemstones, as seen in her self-portrait pendant at right.
New York-- Melissa Spencer is putting her own modern spin on the personalized jewelry craze.
The designer behind Spencer Fine Jewelry has reinvented traditional portrait miniatures by creating the Spencer Portrait gemstone, made through a proprietary process of projecting an image into natural gemstones and setting them on customizable frames of 18-karat gold or sterling silver.
Though she has collection of the jewelry with images already included, customers also can create a custom Spencer Portrait gem.
One of Spencer’s latest projects also includes a collaboration with diamond painter Angie Crabtree called the Diamond Portrait collection, with Crabtree’s intricate portraits transformed into a Spencer Portrait gemstone. The collection launched at the JA New York Summer show.
Below, the 2016 Carelle-WJA Grant winner talks about how her unique aesthetic and how Spencer Fine Jewelry came to be.
National Jeweler: What brought you to jewelry design, and what was the inspiration for your collection?
Melissa Spencer: I have been interested in design and form since I was a child. I could identify the make and model of automobiles at night by the shape and spacing of their head and taillights from the back seat of my parents’ car when we went out to dinner. Later in life, I studied photography, fashion design, architecture and many other fine arts. The summer before my senior year in college, I took a beading class with my mom and started selling my earrings and necklaces to our friends in Dallas. From that moment, I was hooked when I saw the potential of making a career out of my passion and getting to play with the most gorgeous gemstones on a daily basis.
My process is a modern interpretation of historical portraiture. I was inspired by the personalities of the hand-painted porcelain, three-dimensionality of reverse intaglio and romance of the cameo. Last year, I visited the Victoria and Albert Museum in London, which houses the world’s most extensive collection of portrait jewels. I went back two days in a row to revel in each detail of those extraordinary estate designs.
NJ: Where is your jewelry made?
MS: In downtown Los Angeles.
This oval double-sided butterfly Spencer Portrait pendant features six diamonds on each side and is made in 18-karat yellow and rose gold, with hand painted 24-karat gold inside ($5,000).
The triple butterfly necklace in 18-karat yellow gold features three pastel butterfly wing patterns on mini hexagon gems ($3,300).
The Victoria & Renae Spencer Portrait ring with a diamond painting by Angie Crabtree, made in 18-karat yellow gold ($2,200)
The octagon necklace, in 18-karat yellow gold with 16 diamonds ($3,900)
18-karat yellow gold earrings with peridot-colored butterfly wing patterns, abalone Spencer Portrait gems and 12 diamonds ($5,500)
An oval monogram ring with a golden crown, “M” initial and four diamonds weighing 0.06 carats, made in 18-karat rose gold and sterling silver ($2,000)
The round cheetah detail Spencer Portrait necklace has four diamonds, four yellow sapphires and four orange sapphires in 18-karat yellow gold ($3,600).
This Spencer Portrait necklace features a studio photo of a beagle in 18-karat yellow gold with 12 diamonds totaling 0.12 carats ($3,700).
The McKinzie Spencer Portrait ring featuring an Angie Crabtree painting in a medium-sized hexagon-shaped sterling silver setting ($750)
The customizable photo Spencer Portrait necklace has 35 diamonds weighing a total of 0.56 carats and four orange spinels totaling 0.32 carats ($7,200).
NJ: What should retailers focus on, or what story should they tell, when showing your line to customers?
MS: The customizable aspect of the Spencer Portrait designs makes the jewelry deeply personal. I have been moved to tears with some of the stories clients have shared with me about a
beloved grandmother, cherished children and adored pets. Whether a customer is drawn to the beauty and protection of angels, or whether they identify with a classic monogram, the Spencer Portrait jewelry will connect with the thing they are most passionate about.
NJ: How much inventory must a retailer invest in to carry your brand?
MS: A retailer may start with five, 10 or 15 Spencer Portrait designs, leading up to an entire showcase. At least one piece of jewelry must be customized for their store so that it becomes a personal item of the store owner or a top sales person. This way, the story becomes their own, and it will inspire their customers to follow suit.
NJ: What retailers currently are carrying your line?
MS: Arnold’s Jewelry in Pasadena, Calif. Due to the original concept of my jewelry, I chose to wait and build an inventory of several collections before showcasing it, so that I can be known for my innovation and to provide retailers with ample selection. Since exhibiting this year, there is excitement in the momentum of no longer being a best-kept secret!
NJ: At which trade shows do you exhibit at or are you planning to exhibit?
MS: This past year was my first time exhibiting. I was a Rising Star at JCK Tucson, an Emerging Designer at JCK Las Vegas and graduated to the row adjacent to the New Designer Gallery at JA New York. I also had a table at the Wear One showcase through Jewelers of America. I definitely plan to exhibit next year.
http://www.nationaljeweler.com/independents/trade-shows/4499-ja-holds-wear-one-for-third-time
NJ: What are your plans for upcoming collections?
MS: I first would love to create an annual alphabet of expressive initials, and I have a few other exciting ideas up my sleeve.
NJ: Complete this sentence: “People would be surprised to learn that I …”
MS: … can trick rope while standing on a horse!
Retailers interested in contacting Spencer can do so by emailing her at melissa@spencerfinejewelry.com.
NJ: How much inventory must a retailer invest in to carry your brand?
MS: A retailer may start with five, 10 or 15 Spencer Portrait designs, leading up to an entire showcase. At least one piece of jewelry must be customized for their store so that it becomes a personal item of the store owner or a top sales person. This way, the story becomes their own, and it will inspire their customers to follow suit.
NJ: What retailers currently are carrying your line?
MS: Arnold’s Jewelry in Pasadena, Calif. Due to the original concept of my jewelry, I chose to wait and build an inventory of several collections before showcasing it, so that I can be known for my innovation and to provide retailers with ample selection. Since exhibiting this year, there is excitement in the momentum of no longer being a best-kept secret!
NJ: At which trade shows do you exhibit at or are you planning to exhibit?
MS: This past year was my first time exhibiting. I was a Rising Star at JCK Tucson, an Emerging Designer at JCK Las Vegas and graduated to the row adjacent to the New Designer Gallery at JA New York. I also had a table at the Wear One showcase through Jewelers of America. I definitely plan to exhibit next year.
http://www.nationaljeweler.com/independents/trade-shows/4499-ja-holds-wear-one-for-third-time
NJ: What are your plans for upcoming collections?
MS: I first would love to create an annual alphabet of expressive initials, and I have a few other exciting ideas up my sleeve.
NJ: Complete this sentence: “People would be surprised to learn that I …”
MS: … can trick rope while standing on a horse!
Retailers interested in contacting Spencer can do so by emailing her at melissa@spencerfinejewelry.com.
More on Trends
The Latest
MajorsSep 21, 2026
Longtime Industry Executive Pamela Bernstein-Gulla to RetireBernstein-Gulla has been working in the jewelry industry for 40 years, most recently as chief engagement officer for Hill & Co.
IndependentsSep 21, 2026
Bhindi Jewelers Moves Into New, Larger California StoreThe relocated Glendale store, now at The Americana at Brand, was designed to be a contemporary “timepiece haven” inspired by luxury resorts.
Brought to you by
Meet Gemology’s Next Generation Microscope: GIA® Gemolite® NXT Professional EditionExperience gemstones with greater precision and comfort than ever before.
AuctionsSep 18, 2026
7.52-Carat Unheated Paraíba Tourmaline Sells for $1.3M at Sotheby’s The top lot of the auction house’s Hong Kong jewelry sale was an Art Deco Mauboussin necklace with ruby beads, which sold for $2 million.
Weekly QuizSep 17, 2026
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Policies & IssuesSep 18, 2026
Tariffs, Retail Crime Top of Mind at JA’s Annual Fly-In Retailers and manufacturers headed to the Capitol this week to discuss tariff exemptions for diamonds and gemstones, among other issues.
CollectionsSep 18, 2026
Nanis Transforms Its ‘Boule’ Into a Mirror Our Piece of the Week is a pair of drop earrings from the “Sway” collection featuring Nanis’ first use of mirror-polished gold.
Brought to you by
Your Piece Could Be the One Editors Talk AboutSubmit your pieces for a chance to win in this year's competition.
GradingSep 18, 2026
De Beers Introduces Faster Version of Diamond Screening Machine SynthDetect 2 can scan a full tray in less than five minutes, De Beers said, making it six times faster than its predecessors.
AuctionsSep 18, 2026
Noonans To Auction Medieval Gold Seal Ring Recovered By 2 FriendsTwo metal detectorists discovered the ring, which may have belonged to English noblewoman Matilda of Lancaster, in Suffolk.
Policies & IssuesSep 17, 2026
Tariffs on India Could Increase as Russian Sanctions Bill Heads to Trump’s DeskThe bill has a provision that allows the president to raise tariffs on countries that import Russian oil and gas to as much as 100 percent.
Events & AwardsSep 17, 2026
This Is the Winner of the 2026 Robert M. Shipley AwardThe American Gem Society presented the annual award to a former president of its board.
CollectionsSep 17, 2026
Cynthia Erivo, Zoë Chicco’s Jewelry Collab Is an Ode to TransformationThe “Chrysalis” capsule centers butterfly motifs representing growth, transformation, and the unfolding of who you are.
Events & AwardsSep 17, 2026
Louisiana Retailer Kevin Patton Wins Lifetime Achievement AwardJewelers of Louisiana presented Patton, the third-generation president of Pattons Fine Jewelry, with the award at its annual convention.
PodcastsSep 16, 2026
Episode 9: Remembering Cindy EdelsteinTwo special guests join the podcast to commemorate the 10th anniversary of the designer advocate, mentor, and author’s untimely passing.
CollectionsSep 16, 2026
Jessica McCormack, L’Objet Collab on Homewares CollectionMcCormack brings sea-inspired motifs from her “Beaches” collection to L’Objet’s tableware, vanity pieces, and first-ever cutlery set.
CrimeSep 16, 2026
JSA Issues Warning to NJ Jewelers After Rash of Smash and GrabsNine New Jersey jewelers have been victims of smash-and-grab robberies this year, prompting JSA to circulate a list of recommendations.
IndependentsSep 16, 2026
Bromberg & Co. Names New PresidentMarlin “Brian” Hood, who has been with the store for 20 years, will succeed Ricky Bromberg, who died earlier this month.
MajorsSep 16, 2026
Midas Chain Releases ‘House of Midas’ Bridal CatalogThe new bridal catalog features the latest jewelry collections and designs from timeless classics to modern silhouettes.
EditorsSep 15, 2026
2026 Emmys Jewelry: An Either/Or Proposition Stars wore either a necklace or earrings at 78th Primetime Emmy Awards but rarely both, Natalie Francisco notes.
ColumnistsSep 15, 2026
The Levels Your Website Must Clear Before AI Recommends YouJennifer Shaheen compares this new era of AI-powered SEO to a video game: your website must clear one level before advancing to the next.
IndependentsSep 15, 2026
Armadani Launches Retail Support Program for Holiday SeasonThe program highlights “Made in Italy” fine jewelry with digital merchandising, sales education, and local marketing support.
EditorsSep 15, 2026
Q&A: Signet Jewelers’ Joan Hilson on Diamond Demand, the HolidaysHilson, Signet’s chief operating and financial officer, discussed Q2, resurgent natural diamond demand, and why Blue Nile is a standout.
ColumnistsSep 14, 2026
Sherry Smith: Stop Waiting for December to Save Your ChristmasThe stores that have a great December are the ones that made good decisions in August, September, and October, Sherry Smith writes.
AuctionsSep 14, 2026
22 Carats of ‘Sunshine’ Are Up for AuctionThe 22.09-carat fancy yellow “Pragnell Kimberley Sunshine Diamond” is part of the fall jewelry sale at Heritage Auctions.
IndependentsSep 14, 2026
Greenwich St. Jewelers to Unveil Photography Exhibition“Adornos: Jewelry, Memory & What We Pass Down” honors the jewelry’s importance to New York City’s Latine communities.
SourcingSep 14, 2026
Gemfields Sells All Lots at First Emerald Auction in 9 MonthsThe company’s managing director of sales said the results demonstrate “continued strong demand for commercial-quality emeralds.”
