Events & AwardsJul 28, 2026
The Edge Funding 2 Scholarships Via 24 Karat Club SEUS The scholarships will go to early-career professionals looking to study gemology, bench work and jewelry design, or store operations.
TrendsAug 25, 2016
One to Watch: Spencer Fine Jewelry
Melissa Spencer, the recipient of the 2016 Carelle-WJA Grant, is putting her own modern spin on the personalized jewelry craze.
Melissa Spencer, the 2016 Carelle-WJA Grant winner, is putting herself on the map with a line of modern-yet-personal jewelry using proprietary Spencer Portrait gemstones, as seen in her self-portrait pendant at right.
New York-- Melissa Spencer is putting her own modern spin on the personalized jewelry craze.
The designer behind Spencer Fine Jewelry has reinvented traditional portrait miniatures by creating the Spencer Portrait gemstone, made through a proprietary process of projecting an image into natural gemstones and setting them on customizable frames of 18-karat gold or sterling silver.
Though she has collection of the jewelry with images already included, customers also can create a custom Spencer Portrait gem.
One of Spencer’s latest projects also includes a collaboration with diamond painter Angie Crabtree called the Diamond Portrait collection, with Crabtree’s intricate portraits transformed into a Spencer Portrait gemstone. The collection launched at the JA New York Summer show.
Below, the 2016 Carelle-WJA Grant winner talks about how her unique aesthetic and how Spencer Fine Jewelry came to be.
National Jeweler: What brought you to jewelry design, and what was the inspiration for your collection?
Melissa Spencer: I have been interested in design and form since I was a child. I could identify the make and model of automobiles at night by the shape and spacing of their head and taillights from the back seat of my parents’ car when we went out to dinner. Later in life, I studied photography, fashion design, architecture and many other fine arts. The summer before my senior year in college, I took a beading class with my mom and started selling my earrings and necklaces to our friends in Dallas. From that moment, I was hooked when I saw the potential of making a career out of my passion and getting to play with the most gorgeous gemstones on a daily basis.
My process is a modern interpretation of historical portraiture. I was inspired by the personalities of the hand-painted porcelain, three-dimensionality of reverse intaglio and romance of the cameo. Last year, I visited the Victoria and Albert Museum in London, which houses the world’s most extensive collection of portrait jewels. I went back two days in a row to revel in each detail of those extraordinary estate designs.
NJ: Where is your jewelry made?
MS: In downtown Los Angeles.
This oval double-sided butterfly Spencer Portrait pendant features six diamonds on each side and is made in 18-karat yellow and rose gold, with hand painted 24-karat gold inside ($5,000).
The triple butterfly necklace in 18-karat yellow gold features three pastel butterfly wing patterns on mini hexagon gems ($3,300).
The Victoria & Renae Spencer Portrait ring with a diamond painting by Angie Crabtree, made in 18-karat yellow gold ($2,200)
The octagon necklace, in 18-karat yellow gold with 16 diamonds ($3,900)
18-karat yellow gold earrings with peridot-colored butterfly wing patterns, abalone Spencer Portrait gems and 12 diamonds ($5,500)
An oval monogram ring with a golden crown, “M” initial and four diamonds weighing 0.06 carats, made in 18-karat rose gold and sterling silver ($2,000)
The round cheetah detail Spencer Portrait necklace has four diamonds, four yellow sapphires and four orange sapphires in 18-karat yellow gold ($3,600).
This Spencer Portrait necklace features a studio photo of a beagle in 18-karat yellow gold with 12 diamonds totaling 0.12 carats ($3,700).
The McKinzie Spencer Portrait ring featuring an Angie Crabtree painting in a medium-sized hexagon-shaped sterling silver setting ($750)
The customizable photo Spencer Portrait necklace has 35 diamonds weighing a total of 0.56 carats and four orange spinels totaling 0.32 carats ($7,200).
NJ: What should retailers focus on, or what story should they tell, when showing your line to customers?
MS: The customizable aspect of the Spencer Portrait designs makes the jewelry deeply personal. I have been moved to tears with some of the stories clients have shared with me about a
Editors' Picks
Sponsored by
beloved grandmother, cherished children and adored pets. Whether a customer is drawn to the beauty and protection of angels, or whether they identify with a classic monogram, the Spencer Portrait jewelry will connect with the thing they are most passionate about.
NJ: How much inventory must a retailer invest in to carry your brand?
MS: A retailer may start with five, 10 or 15 Spencer Portrait designs, leading up to an entire showcase. At least one piece of jewelry must be customized for their store so that it becomes a personal item of the store owner or a top sales person. This way, the story becomes their own, and it will inspire their customers to follow suit.
NJ: What retailers currently are carrying your line?
MS: Arnold’s Jewelry in Pasadena, Calif. Due to the original concept of my jewelry, I chose to wait and build an inventory of several collections before showcasing it, so that I can be known for my innovation and to provide retailers with ample selection. Since exhibiting this year, there is excitement in the momentum of no longer being a best-kept secret!
NJ: At which trade shows do you exhibit at or are you planning to exhibit?
MS: This past year was my first time exhibiting. I was a Rising Star at JCK Tucson, an Emerging Designer at JCK Las Vegas and graduated to the row adjacent to the New Designer Gallery at JA New York. I also had a table at the Wear One showcase through Jewelers of America. I definitely plan to exhibit next year.
http://www.nationaljeweler.com/independents/trade-shows/4499-ja-holds-wear-one-for-third-time
NJ: What are your plans for upcoming collections?
MS: I first would love to create an annual alphabet of expressive initials, and I have a few other exciting ideas up my sleeve.
NJ: Complete this sentence: “People would be surprised to learn that I …”
MS: … can trick rope while standing on a horse!
Retailers interested in contacting Spencer can do so by emailing her at melissa@spencerfinejewelry.com.
NJ: How much inventory must a retailer invest in to carry your brand?
MS: A retailer may start with five, 10 or 15 Spencer Portrait designs, leading up to an entire showcase. At least one piece of jewelry must be customized for their store so that it becomes a personal item of the store owner or a top sales person. This way, the story becomes their own, and it will inspire their customers to follow suit.
NJ: What retailers currently are carrying your line?
MS: Arnold’s Jewelry in Pasadena, Calif. Due to the original concept of my jewelry, I chose to wait and build an inventory of several collections before showcasing it, so that I can be known for my innovation and to provide retailers with ample selection. Since exhibiting this year, there is excitement in the momentum of no longer being a best-kept secret!
NJ: At which trade shows do you exhibit at or are you planning to exhibit?
MS: This past year was my first time exhibiting. I was a Rising Star at JCK Tucson, an Emerging Designer at JCK Las Vegas and graduated to the row adjacent to the New Designer Gallery at JA New York. I also had a table at the Wear One showcase through Jewelers of America. I definitely plan to exhibit next year.
http://www.nationaljeweler.com/independents/trade-shows/4499-ja-holds-wear-one-for-third-time
NJ: What are your plans for upcoming collections?
MS: I first would love to create an annual alphabet of expressive initials, and I have a few other exciting ideas up my sleeve.
NJ: Complete this sentence: “People would be surprised to learn that I …”
MS: … can trick rope while standing on a horse!
Retailers interested in contacting Spencer can do so by emailing her at melissa@spencerfinejewelry.com.
More on Trends
The Latest
SurveysJul 27, 2026
Jewelry Leads Luxury Market Amid Stabilization, Bain SaysBain & Company delved into the trends shaping the luxury market, the impact of AI, and more in its recent study.
SourcingJul 27, 2026
‘Rubies’ Goes on Display at Harvard MuseumThe exhibition reveals the gemology, geology, and cultural history of the iconic red gemstone.
Brought to you by
Wedding Band Trends 2026: Personalization Takes Center StageColored gemstones, artisan finishes, mixed metals, and meaningful details are shaping demand in bridal jewelry.
Policies & IssuesJul 24, 2026
New Trump Tariffs: What They Mean for Jewelry The new sweeping slate of tariffs impacts 60 countries, including India, China, Thailand, Hong Kong, and the United Arab Emirates.
Weekly QuizJul 23, 2026
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
PodcastsJul 23, 2026
Episode 7: Reinhold Jewelers on the Power of RelationshipsMildred Marcano Abrams and Yael Reinhold join the podcast to talk community connections, holiday plans, and preserving Reinhold’s legacy.
SourcingJul 23, 2026
De Beers’ Production Jumps 88 Percent in Q2 Production also was up in the first half of 2026 but is expected to “substantially” decrease in H2 as two key mines undergo maintenance.
Brought to you by
Building the Future of Jewelry Retail: DCA Expands Education, Leadership Development, and Workforce SolutionsDCA is preparing the next generation of professionals by supporting workforce development, leadership growth, and career advancement.
CollectionsJul 23, 2026
Silvia Furmanovich’s New Collection Travels Back to the 1920s“Art Deco” fuses ancestral techniques, rare materials, and modern perspectives as a tribute to the optimism and curiosity of the movement.
IndependentsJul 23, 2026
Sissy's Log Cabin Opens Casino StoreThe jeweler’s newest store is inside Arkansas’ Saracen Casino Resort.
WatchesJul 23, 2026
Movado Inks Licensing Deal With Kate Spade New YorkThe watch company will design, manufacture, and distribute Kate Spade New York watches.
Policies & IssuesJul 22, 2026
Trump to Put 50% Tariff on Canadian Goods The higher tax is set to go into effect in August and will apply to loose polished diamonds as well as precious and base metals jewelry.
CollectionsJul 22, 2026
Monica Rich Kosann’s High Jewelry Is FruitfulThe “Enchanted Garden” series features a cherry, lemon, and pear that each hold a little secret inside.
IndependentsJul 22, 2026
Liljenquist Beckstead Opens Rolex New BoutiqueIt’s located in Tysons Galleria, an upscale shopping center in the Washington, D.C., metro area.
Events & AwardsJul 22, 2026
NY Now Returns in August Under New OwnershipThe show, recently acquired by Rockview Management Group, will be held at New York City’s Javits Center from Aug. 2-4.
ColumnistsJul 21, 2026
Sherry Smith: Shattering the Illusion of the ‘Either/Or’ Diamond MarketSmith offers retailers guidance on creating an environment where natural and lab-grown diamonds can both thrive.
Events & AwardsJul 21, 2026
Apollo Funds Completes Emerald AcquisitionFormer Emerald President and CEO Hervé Sedky has transitioned to the role of senior advisor.
CollectionsJul 21, 2026
Graff’s New Butterfly High Jewelry Brooches MetamorphosizeThe 12-piece capsule collection transforms from brooches to pendants.
SourcingJul 21, 2026
Anglo Reportedly Selects Gareth Penny’s Consortium as Top Bidder for De BeersA Botswana government official told lawmakers Anglo has selected The Global Diamond Consortium, an entity chaired by Penny, to buy De Beers.
Policies & IssuesJul 20, 2026
Tariffs on Brazil to Increase But Rough Gemstones ExemptThe new tariff, imposed after a Trump administration study, is 25 percent and will stack on top of existing tariffs.
CollectionsJul 20, 2026
Vhernier Transforms ‘Freccia’ Collection Into High JewelryThe collection from 2014 has been reinterpreted into high jewelry with its signature triangular-shaped elements.
MajorsJul 20, 2026
Krista Collins Walters Promoted to Publisher of InstoreShe will also take on the role of vice president of jewelry for SmartWork Media, a newly created position.
Events & AwardsJul 20, 2026
TJS Accepting Speaker Proposals for 2027 EventOrganizers are looking for presentations on topics like manufacturing, technology and research, bench work, gemstones, and sustainability.
CollectionsJul 17, 2026
HOWL Taps Shailene Woodley for ‘Home Sweet Home’ CampaignWoodley is seen in the campaign wearing our Piece of the Week, the “Frida” collar featuring 13 pieces of hand-carved Venetian glass.
SourcingJul 17, 2026
U.K. Woman Pays £5 for £15K Diamond Ring at Car Boot SaleA WeBuyVintage jewelry expert uncovered how much the flea market find was actually worth.
SourcingJul 17, 2026
Diamond Dealer Jeff Pancis Pens MemoirThe founder of natural colored diamond wholesaler Pancis Gems shares stories from his five decades in the industry.
Events & AwardsJul 17, 2026
Gem Awards Opens 2027 Nomination PeriodSubmissions for the milestone 25th annual Gem Awards will be accepted across three categories from now through July 31.
