Trends

The History Behind … Micromosaic Jewelry

TrendsOct 01, 2018

The History Behind … Micromosaic Jewelry

National Jeweler takes a deep dive into the style of antique jewelry in which thousands of tiny fragments of glass create a painting-like picture.

20180925_Joden-1.jpg
A circa 1880/1890 micromosaic brooch/hair locket from Joden World Resources in 18-karat yellow gold ($11,375)

New York—One look at a high-quality piece of micromosaic jewelry and the labor and work that goes into it is immediately evident.

The antique style, reaching its pinnacle largely in 19th-century Italy, is a great example of jewelry as art, taking inspiration from traditional mosaics but in a scaled-down size.

“In my opinion, cameos and micromosaics are two of the greatest bargains in the jewelry business,” said Joe Murawski, founder of antique and estate jeweler Joden World Resources, because of the work that goes into them compared with their prices.

National Jeweler spoke with Murawski and Francesca Neri Serneri, one of the designers behind Italian brand Le Sibille, and consulted a number of online resources to learn more about the history behind micromosaic jewelry.

What is a Micromosaic?

Micromosaics are created from tiny fragments of tesserae, generally made from glass or enamel, set to form small pictures. Murawski described the size of the tesserae as being as little as the lead in a mechanical pencil (about 1 mm).

As all the sources and online resources noted, making a micromosaic is a painstaking process.

One common method includes melting glass, pulling it into thin rods or threads and then, after it cools, cutting it into tiny pieces that are then arranged on a copper or gold tray to create a scene, portrait or landscape. Many depict ancient Italian landmarks or scenes from nature such as animals or plants.

According to a post online from Lang Antiques, black Belgian marble also was carved and used as the background or base for micromosaics in the mid-19th century.

Whether metal or marble, mastic or cement was used to adhere the tesserae to the base as it was arranged into an image or scene.

Once that hardened, any gaps between the tesserae were often filled with colored wax. Then the image often was polished to give it a smooth and even surface, according to Lang Antiques.

According to the Gemological Institute of America, one square inch of micromosaic jewelry can have as many as 1,400 pieces of tesserae.

Murawski said some can have as many as 3,000 to 4,000, but most are comprised of hundreds of pieces of tesserae.

When and Where Did Micromosaic Jewelry Become Popular?

Italy is given much of the credit as the origin nation for micromosaics, and many agree that the style was refined and reached its peak in the 1800s,

but the style and its popularity extended beyond that.

According to Lang Antiques, micromosaics have links to the Vatican.

The Vatican Mosaic Studio opened in 1727 to convert some of the paintings in the city’s basilica to mosaics for preservation. There, artisans began to experiment with making tesserae into small, portable works of art.

Murawski also talked about the style’s link to the Vatican, noting that if someone made a substantial donation to the Catholic Church, the papal jeweler would make an image of them as cameo or micromosaic, or to create a nature-themed micromosaic for them.


Demand for this new style of mosaic also was then further helped along by the “Grand Tour,” an era in the 19th century in which aristocrats would take an extended trip around Europe, particularly France and Italy, to see the cultural and historical sites. They often wanted souvenirs their trips, making micromosaic jewels of sites and scenes the perfect keepsake.

Due to the high demand for the style in the 19th century, Lang said, an influx of workers migrated to Rome to make micromosaics but they weren’t skilled in the art and began making poor quality micromosaics that flooded the market and hurt the industry overall.

How Much Do They Cost?

According to Murawski, the price of a micromosaic jewelry can range pretty widely depending on their quality and the number of tesserae used.

He said they could be as low as $5 for those, say, made in brass with larger pieces of tesserae, while a “really fine example” from Italy using 5,000 pieces “can cost $25,000 quite easily.”

Murawski noted that some micromosaics have an inlay of black onyx around the base—likely just to give the colors in the scene more contrast—but added those are easier to make than the micromosaics in which the glass is affixed directly to the metal and also aren’t quite as rare, making them a little more affordable.

What Is the Market for Micromosaics Today?

“The people that like (micromosaics), love it,” Murawski said. “The people that don’t care about it, don’t care at all about it.”

He added that many people who come into the Joden store in Grove City, Pennsylvania, enjoy looking at it the pieces even if they don’t buy any.

Joden World Resources carries the real antique deal. But some contemporary fine jewelry brands and designers make micromosaic pieces too.

Gurhan is one such brand, adding mosaics to its existing collections.

Two modern Italian brands are also making the micromosaic their business.

Rome-based jewelry brand Le Sibille and its three founders want to bring back the style of Renaissance workshops, and one way they’re doing that is through their contemporary micromosaic line.

They take inspiration from the very art they studied, except Le Sibille doesn’t grind the piece down to make them flat, as many of the antique pieces were, the brand’s Neri Serneri said.

Meanwhile, Ravenna, Italy-based Sicis Jewels developed a department for micromosaic jewels after a decade of historical and bibliographic research about the art form.

They have taken the ancient techniques and applied them to goldsmithing and contemporary jewels, including a line of high jewelry that uses tesserae.

{embed 407}
Brecken Branstratoris the senior editor, gemstones at National Jeweler, covering sourcing, pricing and other developments in the colored stone sector.

The Latest

Pair of Ippolita Lollatini earrings
MajorsDec 19, 2025
MadaLuxe Group Acquires Ippolita

The luxury goods company said founder Ippolita Rostagno will remain at the brand’s helm.

Bulgari CEO Laura Burdese
MajorsDec 19, 2025
LVMH Names New Bulgari CEO

Laura Burdese, who joined the Italian luxury brand in 2022, will take on the role in July.

Harwell Godfrey Lil Buddies
EditorsDec 19, 2025
2025 Jewelry Superlatives: A Yearbook-Style Year in Review

The National Jeweler editors revisit the most noteworthy industry happenings and design trends from 2025.

Recipients Collage 2025 - NJ (1872 x 1050 px) (1872 x 1052 px).png
Brought to you by
Impacting Tomorrow Today

How Jewelers of America’s 20 Under 40 are leading to ensure a brighter future for the jewelry industry.

Front of Jean Schlumberger’s ‘African Cat’ brooch
AuctionsDec 19, 2025
Jean Schlumberger’s ‘African Cat’ Is Purr-Fection

Need a gift for the cat lover who has everything? Look no further than our latest Piece of the Week.

Weekly QuizDec 18, 2025
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Audemars Piguet Grosse Pièce
AuctionsDec 18, 2025
Audemars Piguet Reclaims Historic Pocket Watch at Auction

It purchased the “Grosse Pièce,” an ultra-complicated Audemars Piguet pocket watch from the ‘20s, for a record-breaking price at Sotheby’s.

Diamond ring in parts
Lab-GrownDec 18, 2025
Kira Jewels Debuts Custom Lab-Grown Diamond Jewelry Service

The lab-grown diamond grower now offers custom engagement and fashion jewelry through its Kira Custom Lab Jewelry service.

roseco-catalog.png
Brought to you by
Roseco Releases New Full-Line Catalog

Roseco’s 704-page catalog showcases new lab-grown diamonds, findings, tools & more—available in print or interactive digital editions.

Terry and Cindy Chandler at AGS Conclave
EditorsDec 18, 2025
Terry Chandler Looks Back on 40 Years of Opportunity, Change, and Friends

Chandler got his start at Michelson Jewelers and has served as DCA president and CEO since 2001. He will retire at the end of the month.

Rendering of Bob’s Watches JFK airport store
WatchesDec 18, 2025
Bob’s Watches to Open Store in New York’s JFK Airport

The boutique is slated to open this week inside Terminal 8, offering pre-owned Rolex watches and more to international travelers.

JamAlert 1872x1052.png
Supplier BulletinDec 18, 2025
Cell Jammers Are Targeting Your Business. Here's How to Beat Them

Sponsored by Digital Monitoring Products

Fabergé egg pendant near gloved hand
CrimeDec 17, 2025
Man Pleads Not Guilty to Swallowing Fabergé Pendant

The special-edition egg pendant ingested in a New Zealand jewelry store was recovered after a six-day wait.

Ashley Zhang Jewelry Snake Necklace, Renato Cipullo Hematite Blaze Necklace, Vanessa Fernandez Studio Curva Wrap Hoops, Hernsdorf Tears of Aphrodite Necklace, Robinson Pelham Tsar Star Earrings, Marla Aaron Nymphenburg Lock, Lof The Valentine Ring
EditorsDec 17, 2025
2025 Jewelry Rewind: The Best Piece of the Week Picks

Associate Editor Natalie Francisco plays favorites with Piece of the Week, selecting a standout piece of jewelry from each month of 2025.

Lucy Hale in Jacquie Aiche’s Love and Desire Campaign
CollectionsDec 17, 2025
Lucy Hale Stars in Jacquie Aiche’s Holiday Campaign

The “Love and Desire” campaign is inspired by the magic that follows when one’s heart leads the way, said the brand.

SSEF logo
GradingDec 17, 2025
SSEF Announces 2025 Scholarship Winners

Two awardees will receive free tuition for an educational course at the Swiss lab, with flights and lodging included.

Pandora Alexander Lacik and Berta de Pablos-Barbier
MajorsDec 16, 2025
Pandora’s New CEO Will Step Up Early

Berta de Pablos-Barbier will replace Alexander Lacik at the start of January, two months earlier than expected.

JAR pendant brooch, fancy intense blue diamond
AuctionsDec 16, 2025
Suzanne Belperron, JAR Shine in Sotheby’s First Auctions at New HQ

Sotheby’s held its first two jewelry sales at the Breuer building last week, and they totaled nearly $44 million.

The Jewelry Symposium logo
Events & AwardsDec 16, 2025
TJS Now Accepting Scholarship Applications for 2026

Winners will receive free registration and lodging for its fourth annual event in Detroit.

National Jeweler columnists and PR professionals Duvall O’Steen and Jen Cullen Williams
ColumnistsDec 16, 2025
Beyond Unboxing: Creative Reveals to Drive Reach and Engagement

Here are six ideas for making more engaging content for Instagram Reels and TikTok, courtesy of Duvall O’Steen and Jen Cullen Williams.

Tiffany & Co. logo, Anna Martin, CD Peacock logo
Events & AwardsDec 16, 2025
Diamonds Do Good Names 2026 Award Recipients

The honorees include a notable jewelry brand, an industry veteran, and an independent retailer.

Stock image of gavel
CrimeDec 15, 2025
Men Receive Life Sentences in Home Invasion Murder of Jeweler

Carlos Jose Hernandez and Joshua Zuazo were sentenced to life without the possibility of parole in the 2024 murder of Hussein “Sam” Murray.

Eduard Stefanescu, left, and Sara Yood, right
Policies & IssuesDec 15, 2025
Sara Yood Named Co-Chair of RJC Standards Committee

Yood will serve alongside Eduard Stefanescu, the sustainability manager for C.Hafner, a precious metals refiner in Germany.

MS Rau Aspen rendering
IndependentsDec 15, 2025
M.S. Rau to Open Store in Aspen

The New Orleans jeweler is also hosting pop-up jewelry boutiques in New York City and Dallas.

Tiffany & Co. Paraíba tourmaline jewelry
AuctionsDec 12, 2025
13.54-Carat Paraíba Tourmaline Sets Records at Christie’s

Set in a Tiffany & Co. necklace, it sold for $4.2 million, the highest price and price per carat paid for a Paraíba tourmaline at auction.

David Webb holiday window
MajorsDec 12, 2025
David Webb Reveals Ice-Cold Holiday Window Display

The jeweler’s “Deep Freeze” display showcases its iconic jewelry designs frozen in a vintage icebox.

Oscar Heyman Yellow Green Sphene and Diamond Ring
CollectionsDec 12, 2025
Piece of the Week: Oscar Heyman’s Sphene Ring

Take luxury gifting to new heights this holiday season with the jeweler’s showstopping 12-carat sphene ring.

IGI Design Contest Graphic
Events & AwardsDec 12, 2025
IGI Jewelry Design Contest Now Accepting Submissions

This year's theme is “Unveiling the Depths of the Ocean.”

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy