Editors

What the Tiffany ruling means for the industry

EditorsSep 11, 2015

What the Tiffany ruling means for the industry

In a week of big stories, the outcome of Tiffany v. Costco was certainly the biggest.

In a week of big stories, the outcome of Tiffany v. Costco was certainly the biggest, as a federal court in New York handed down a decision that answered the question: Has the term “Tiffany” become genericized, making it OK for anybody who’s selling a certain style of ring to refer to it as a “Tiffany setting?”

Tiffany & Co. first filed suit against Costco Wholesale Corp. on Valentine’s Day 2013, accusing the membership-only warehouse club of selling rings with signs designating them as “Tiffany” when they were not, in fact, rings made by Tiffany & Co.

According to Tiffany, Costco even went so far as remove the Tiffany descriptor when it advertised these same rings online so as to avoid detection.

Shortly thereafter, Costco fired back with a counterclaim insisting that the term “Tiffany” had become genericized and that the phrase “Tiffany setting” could be used to describe any engagement ring of a certain style.

Now, when most people think of generic, what comes to mind is non-brand-name products, like those black-and-white bags of potato chips my mom used to buy in Foodland because they were cheaper than Ruffles. I always wanted to experience the thrill of eating those ridged potato chips in my own home but, alas, it was not meant to be.

As it relates to trademarks, however, what generic means more specifically is a trademark or brand name that has become synonymous with a more general class of product or service.

This can happen organically—laundromat was once a trademarked term but its trademark expired—or against the wishes of the company or brand.

Aspirin, for example, actually was trademarked by Bayer but deemed in court many years ago to have become genericized in the United States. The same is true for Murphy bed, the name for a type of bed that folds up into the wall in order to save space, and originally was the concept of William Lawrence Murphy.

In filing its lawsuit, Costco asserted that the Tiffany name had gone the way of aspirin or the Murphy bed and therefore all retailers could use the term “Tiffany setting” to describe any ring with multiple slender prongs extending upward from a base to hold a single gemstone. (The actual Tiffany Setting, which was created by Charles Lewis Tiffany in 1868, has six prongs.)

The judge disagreed, ruling that the term Tiffany has not become generic and, thereby, is still protected by trademark.

The JVC’s Cecilia Gardner, who actually was deposed in this case because of her knowledge of both the law and the jewelry industry, says what this means for the jewelry industry is simple. Retailers, manufacturers, etc. should not use the term “Tiffany setting” unless they are selling a ring manufactured by Tiffany & Co.

“This decision is authoritative that that phrase is an infringement on Tiffany’s intellectual property and cannot be used without real risk,” she said. “Everybody is exposed to liability if they use that term to connote something else other than a ring manufactured by Tiffany.”
Does that mean that absolutely everybody that has ever written or uttered the words “Tiffany setting” is going to get hit with a lawsuit tomorrow?

No, certainly not; but there is, as Gardner put it, “real risk” and Tiffany definitely is a company that takes protecting its 178-year-old name very seriously. 

In her decision in Tiffany v. Costco, Judge Laura Taylor Swain noted that Tiffany “expended considerable time and resources marshaling testimony and analysis purporting to demonstrate … the unquestionable strength of the Tiffany mark.”

It’s what companies have to do in order to prevent their brand or brands from becoming genericized.

Gardner told me that Xerox prominently and regularly publishes notices pointing out that Xerox is the name of a company, not the name for any photocopied pieces of paper or the action of copying them. Kimberly-Clark does the same thing in order to remind people that Kleenex is a trademarked brand, not a generic term for facial tissue.

“Tiffany (in this case) needed to do the same to protect its intellectual property and to prevent the term (Tiffany from) gathering or acquiring a secondary meaning,” she says.

 Gardner also cautions against using a softened version of the term, i.e. Tiffany-style setting, which the retailer could still take issue with, depending on how aggressively it wants to defend its intellectual property.

 “That’s not going to protect you necessarily,” she says. “If you say ‘Tiffany,’ you might hear from Tiffany.” 
Michelle Graffis the editor-in-chief at National Jeweler, directing the publication’s coverage both online and in print.

The Latest

US Supreme Court building
Policies & IssuesFeb 20, 2026
Supreme Court Rules Against Most of President Trump’s Tariffs

In a 6-3 ruling, the court said the president exceeded his authority when imposing sweeping tariffs under IEEPA.

Headshot of National Jeweler columnist Peter Smith
ColumnistsFeb 20, 2026
Peter Smith: Happiness, Cavemen, and Jewelry Sales

Smith encourages salespeople to ask customers questions that elicit the release of oxytocin, the brain’s “feel-good” chemical.

Jewelers Vigilance Committee logo
MajorsFeb 20, 2026
Jewelers Vigilance Committee Names Julie Yoakum Board Chair

JVC also announced the election of five new board members.

MJSA Apprenticeship Guide
Brought to you by
The MJSA Mentor & Apprenticeship Program: Attracting & Training the Next Generation of Bench Jewelers

Launched in 2023, the program will help the passing of knowledge between generations and alleviate the shortage of bench jewelers.

Boucheron Faisceaux Brooch
CollectionsFeb 20, 2026
Boucheron’s ‘Faisceaux’ Brooch Heads to V&A Museum

The brooch, our Piece of the Week, shows the chromatic spectrum through a holographic coating on rock crystal.

Weekly QuizFeb 19, 2026
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Ann Weaver Bailey, also known as “Mama Ann”
IndependentsFeb 19, 2026
Bailey’s Fine Jewelry Co-Founder ‘Mama Ann’ Bailey Dies at 100

Raised in an orphanage, Bailey was 18 when she met her husband, Clyde. They opened their North Carolina jewelry store in 1948.

Material Good Boston Location Interior Rendering
IndependentsFeb 19, 2026
Material Good Opens Third Location

Material Good is celebrating its 10th anniversary as it opens its new store in the Back Bay neighborhood of Boston.

JamAlert 1872x1052.png
Brought to you by
How Jewelers Can Fight Back Against Cell Jammers

Criminals are using cell jammers to disable alarms, but new technology like JamAlert™ can stop them.

Original Miami Beach Antique Show sign
Events & AwardsFeb 19, 2026
The Original Miami Beach Antique Show Returns in March

The show will be held March 26-30 at the Miami Beach Convention Center.

Joanna Carson jewelry auction
AuctionsFeb 18, 2026
Joanna Carson’s Jewels Head to Auction

The estate of the model, philanthropist, and ex-wife of Johnny Carson has signed statement jewels up for sale at John Moran Auctioneers.

My Next Question podcast with Marion Fasel and Natalie Francisco
PodcastsFeb 18, 2026
Episode 2: Jewelry Trends & Does the Red Carpet Matter?

Are arm bands poised to make a comeback? Has red-carpet jewelry become boring? Find out on the second episode of the “My Next Question” podcast.

Select Jewelry Graziella Air
MajorsFeb 18, 2026
Select Jewelry Inks Agreement to Distribute Lightweight Gold Jewelry

It will lead distribution in North America for Graziella Braccialini's new gold pieces, which it said are 50 percent lighter.

Community for Ethical Jewelry Logo
Policies & IssuesFeb 18, 2026
Community for Ethical Jewelry Looks for Executive Director

The organization is seeking a new executive director to lead it into its next phase of strategic growth and industry influence.

DCA colored gemstone course on laptop
Events & AwardsFeb 18, 2026
DCA to Host Gemstone Selling Education Session at IJO Event

The nonprofit will present a live, two-hour introductory course on building confidence when selling colored gemstones.

Cece Jewellery Traveller’s Tale Ring
TrendsFeb 17, 2026
A Bit of Jewelry for the Year of the Horse

Western wear continues to trend in the Year of the Fire Horse and along with it, horse and horseshoe motifs in jewelry.

Anza gems
SourcingFeb 17, 2026
Colored Gemstone Experts Talk Tariffs, Trends in Tucson

Although the market is robust, tariffs and precious metal prices are impacting the industry, Stuart Robertson and Brecken Branstrator said.

Dr. George Rossman
GradingFeb 17, 2026
Dr. George Rossman, Former GIA Governor, Dies at 81

Rossman, who advised GIA for more than 50 years, is remembered for his passion and dedication to the field of gemology.

Nest doorbell camera footage of suspect in Nancy Guthrie abduction
CrimeFeb 13, 2026
JSA Offering $10K Reward in Nancy Guthrie Case

Guthrie, the mother of “Today” show host Savannah Guthrie, was abducted just as the Tucson gem shows were starting.

Butterfield Jewelers going out of business sale ad
IndependentsFeb 13, 2026
97-Year-Old New Mexico Jewelry Store To Close

Butterfield Jewelers in Albuquerque, New Mexico, is preparing to close as members of the Butterfield family head into retirement.

Paul Morelli Rosebud Necklace
CollectionsFeb 13, 2026
A ‘Rosebud’ Necklace for Valentine’s Day

Paul Morelli’s “Rosebud” necklace, our Piece of the Week, uses 18-karat rose, green, and white gold to turn the symbol of love into jewelry.

Jewelers for Children
MajorsFeb 13, 2026
JFC Announces New Beneficiaries

The nonprofit has welcomed four new grantees for 2026.

Saks Fifth Avenue Club personal styling suite in Austin Texas
MajorsFeb 12, 2026
These 8 Saks Fifth Avenue Stores Are Closing

Parent company Saks Global is also closing nearly all Saks Off 5th locations, a Neiman Marcus store, and 14 personal styling suites.

Tudor Heart pendant on display at British Museum
CollectionsFeb 12, 2026
British Museum Raises $5M to Keep Jewel Linked to Henry VIII, Katherine of Aragon

It is believed the 24-karat heart-shaped enameled pendant was made for an event marking the betrothal of Princess Mary in 1518.

AGTA Spectrum, Cutting Edge Buyers Choice winners 2025
SourcingFeb 12, 2026
‘Cotton Candy’ Necklace, 35-Carat Kunzite Win 2025 ‘Buyer’s Choice’ Awards

The AGTA Spectrum and Cutting Edge “Buyer’s Choice” award winners were announced at the Spectrum Awards Gala last week.

Kering Logo
Events & AwardsFeb 12, 2026
Kering Opens Entries for 2026 Sustainability-Focused Award

The “Kering Generation Award x Jewelry” returns for its second year with “Second Chance, First Choice” as its theme.

Halle Berry’s vintage diamond and sapphire engagement ring
TrendsFeb 11, 2026
Halle Berry’s Retro Engagement Ring Is a Sapphire-Set Stunner

Sourced by For Future Reference Vintage, the yellow gold ring has a round center stone surrounded by step-cut sapphires.

Francesca’s storefront
MajorsFeb 11, 2026
Francesca’s Files for Chapter 11 Bankruptcy Again

The clothing and accessories chain announced last month it would be closing all of its stores.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy