More specifically, it wants to create a market for the commercial-grade material coming out of its mine.
With the collaboration, it’s using organic material—tumbled, cabochon and trapiche emeralds, as well as slices—to fully showcase the diversity.
When I first wrote about the collaboration, only about half of the pieces were ready for viewing and the second phase of designer partnerships was in the works.
Now, it is making its official debut, featuring nearly 100 pieces of one-of-a-kind jewelry ranging in price from about $2,000 upward.
So far, the Muzo-designer collab features 25 designers including Alexandra Mor, Coomi, Daniela Villegas, Erica Courtney, Kimberly McDonald, Lisa Kim, Mateo, Noor Fares, Selim Mouzannar, Spencer Fine Jewelry, The Rock Hound, Victor Velyan and Wilfredo Rosado.
Last week in New York, Muzo hosted a preview, inviting editors to see the final collection in a sunlit condo building in Chelsea.
Muzo said the project is ongoing and it will continue to look for other designers with which to partner.
In the meantime, I’m going to enjoy what’s already here.
Here is a (non-exhaustive roundup) of my favorites from the preview. For any of you who are (ahem) feeling generous, the below also could be received as a Christmas wish list of sorts.
I happened to peep these beauties on Instagram the week before the preview, and they just cemented the fact that I had to be at the Muzo preview event; I so desperately wanted to try them on.
Coomi’s “Bloom” earrings, featuring 13.20 carats of trapiche emerald, 3.30 carats of cabochon emerald and 1.05 carats of diamond in 20-karat gold, took already exceptionally cool stones and made them even cooler by setting them in such a show-stopping way. They’re priced at $69,000. (Visit our Instagram to see them on.)
Alice Cicolini did something with the emerald jewelry that I adored: the pieces feature vibrant Muzo emeralds contrasted with hand-painted lacquer enamel and black lacquer enamel for a strong-yet-delicate look.
The inclusions in emeralds are often referred to as “jardin,” a nod to their garden-like look. I’ve always loved how the word evokes an appreciation for that characteristic,
and I think it also goes perfectly with the way these floral “Jaipur Bouganvillea” earrings are celebrating the Muzo emeralds.
The stones—a whopping 55.56 carats total—are set in a way that allows light to pass through. The earrings are priced at £62,500 (about $78,305).
There’s a lot of sculptural inspiration in jewelry right now, and these Ara Vartanian earrings ($44,000) are no exception. Though they feature 35.18 carats of emerald slices with black and white diamond accents on 18-karat gold, they were very lightweight and wearable.
The best part about them, in my opinion, is the movement; check out our Instagram to see them in action.
Black and emerald green are such a classic pair, so I wasn’t surprised to see many designers use black accents with the emeralds for their creations. But there was something about this Selim Mouzannar stunner ($119,800) that immediately caught my eye.
Could it be the idea of 23.06 carats of emeralds wrapped lovingly around the neck? The diamond and rose gold accents as well? It doesn’t matter; I love it all.
The colors of the Muzo emeralds are such that they also allow for interesting combinations beyond black, and I thought Daria De Koning did a fabulous job showcasing how versatile these gemstones can be.
In one set of earrings, she paired the emeralds with iolite and azurite-malachite; in another, aquamarine, tourmaline and white howlite. This pair above, priced at $6,500, features free-form emeralds and trillion cabochons with rainbow moonstone and amazonite set in 18-karat gold.
Dana Bronfman’s work has this great, subtle sculptural feeling that she softens with open spaces, and I love the way the tumbled Muzo emeralds she uses provide a contrast to that, especially in this “Marquise Agra” cuff ($11,300).
Having one large emerald front and center balances out the feel of the piece and adds a pop of color to the 18-karat gold.
Katherine Jetter’s cage pieces strike a balance between looking like they’re protecting the gems they encase and still appearing wearable and approachable.
I love the versatility of the tumbled emeralds she used here. These 18-karat gold cages can be opened for other gems, if you wish, and the emeralds also are sold separately ($3,600 for the pair, while the earrings are $5,720).
These “Two Falling Stars” earrings from Mercedes Salazar, like a number of the pieces in the collaboration, have really found a way to underscore the idea that there are Colombian emeralds for everyone.
I, for one, could see myself wearing these all the time. With 38 carats of emeralds in 18-karat gold, they’re priced at $3,608. (See the matching ring on our Instagram.)
Using tumbled and freeform emeralds made sense for the material chosen for the collaboration, but I love the way it creates such an interesting juxtaposition. I’ve always loved the look of a rough stone paired with precious metals and even other faceted gems, and though the emerald in this piece is a step above rough, I think the idea carries over.
This M. Spalten Glacial necklace ($8,180), with a 10.49-carat emerald dripping from an 18-karat gold and diamond form, is perfect.
Brecken Branstratoris the senior editor, gemstones at National Jeweler, covering sourcing, pricing and other developments in the colored stone sector.
