CollectionsJul 25, 2025
Piece of the Week: Jemma Wynne’s ‘Forme’ NecklaceAnne Hathaway was seen wearing the toggle necklace three times while filming scenes for “The Devil Wears Prada 2.”
EditorsJun 04, 2021
Out & About: The Stories Behind These ‘Beautiful Creatures’
Editor-in-Chief Michelle Graff is eager to get out. Her first stop: the new jewelry exhibition at the American Museum of Natural History.
María Félix’s famous crocodile necklace by Cartier is crafted in gold with emeralds, yellow diamonds, and rubies for the eyes. It is one of the more than 100 jewels on display as part of the “Beautiful Creatures” exhibition at the American Museum of Natural History in New York. (Credit: Nils Herrmann, Cartier Collection © Cartier)
Last Friday, I took a subway ride up to the American Museum of Natural History, where Marion Fasel has been spending most of her time.
The jewelry author and historian curated an exhibition of animal jewelry for the museum called “Beautiful Creatures.”
As writers do, she penned an accompanying book of the same name, which I recommend to jewelry lovers, particularly jewelry lovers who are also animal lovers.
“Beautiful Creatures” is housed in a rotating exhibition space adjacent to the museum’s just-renovated gem halls, which will reopen to the public next weekend after several years of construction and COVID-related delays.
Marion, who’s basically a walking encyclopedia of jewelry history, gave me a personal tour of the exhibition, and it was wonderful.
It was wonderful to get dressed, to leave my apartment for hours at a time, to take the subway somewhere with purpose, to catch up with one of my favorite colleagues, and to talk jewelry (and other things) in person again.
For me, it’s the people who make this industry enjoyable and I’ve missed you.
Over the next couple of weeks, I’m planning to bring you more stories of being “Out & About,” and I look forward to reuniting with some of you at the Vegas shows later this summer.
In the meantime, enjoy this verbal and visual tour of “Beautiful Creatures.”
A Splashy Opening
The exhibition is divided into categories based on where the featured creatures mostly dwell: Creatures of Air, Creatures of Land and Creatures of Water.
There are no barnyard animals, no household pets and no jewels that include animal forms as an afterthought, Marion told me at the start of my tour. All the pieces depict creatures in their entirety.
In curating the collection, Marion found inspiration within the walls of the museum—the Hall of Biodiversity was particularly inspiring, she said—and narrowed her search for jewels to the last 150 years, a nod to the museum’s recent milestone.
The American Museum of Natural History celebrated its 150th anniversary in 2019.
“Beautiful Creatures” opens with a case containing Creatures of Water, and Marion was at the ready to share the history behind each piece.
There’s a moonstone jellyfish brooch Jean Schlumberger made for dear friend and client Bunny Mellon after she was stung by one, a modern opal Man O’ War brooch crafted by Paula Crevoshay, two of Fulco di Verdura’s Lion’s Paw Shell brooches, and one of the four Boivin amethyst and ruby starfish brooches known to exist.
The jewelry author and historian curated an exhibition of animal jewelry for the museum called “Beautiful Creatures.”
As writers do, she penned an accompanying book of the same name, which I recommend to jewelry lovers, particularly jewelry lovers who are also animal lovers.
“Beautiful Creatures” is housed in a rotating exhibition space adjacent to the museum’s just-renovated gem halls, which will reopen to the public next weekend after several years of construction and COVID-related delays.
Marion, who’s basically a walking encyclopedia of jewelry history, gave me a personal tour of the exhibition, and it was wonderful.
It was wonderful to get dressed, to leave my apartment for hours at a time, to take the subway somewhere with purpose, to catch up with one of my favorite colleagues, and to talk jewelry (and other things) in person again.
For me, it’s the people who make this industry enjoyable and I’ve missed you.
Over the next couple of weeks, I’m planning to bring you more stories of being “Out & About,” and I look forward to reuniting with some of you at the Vegas shows later this summer.
In the meantime, enjoy this verbal and visual tour of “Beautiful Creatures.”
A Splashy Opening
The exhibition is divided into categories based on where the featured creatures mostly dwell: Creatures of Air, Creatures of Land and Creatures of Water.
There are no barnyard animals, no household pets and no jewels that include animal forms as an afterthought, Marion told me at the start of my tour. All the pieces depict creatures in their entirety.
In curating the collection, Marion found inspiration within the walls of the museum—the Hall of Biodiversity was particularly inspiring, she said—and narrowed her search for jewels to the last 150 years, a nod to the museum’s recent milestone.
The American Museum of Natural History celebrated its 150th anniversary in 2019.
“Beautiful Creatures” opens with a case containing Creatures of Water, and Marion was at the ready to share the history behind each piece.
There’s a moonstone jellyfish brooch Jean Schlumberger made for dear friend and client Bunny Mellon after she was stung by one, a modern opal Man O’ War brooch crafted by Paula Crevoshay, two of Fulco di Verdura’s Lion’s Paw Shell brooches, and one of the four Boivin amethyst and ruby starfish brooches known to exist.
This shot by the author shows, from left to right at top, the Verdura Lion’s Paw Shell brooches, the Boivin starfish, and a starfish by Hemmerle and, at bottom, the Jean Schlumberger jellyfish, a seahorse by Guy Bedarida for Marina B, and an Elsa Peretti starfish.
The gold, ruby, diamond and pearl “Étoile de Mer” brooch by Salvador Dalí comes with two gem-set butterflies, which can be attached to the echinoderm’s arms. (Photo credit: Jake Armour, Armour Photography)
This Verdura Lion’s Paw Shell Brooch features a natural scallop shell set with sapphires and diamonds in gold, and is one of two in the exhibition. Duke Fulco di Verdura made the brooches using shells he purchased in the museum gift shop in 1940. (Courtesy of Stephen Webster)
The piece to see in this case is the “Étoile de Mer” ruby, diamond and pearl brooch by Salvador Dalí, purchased by his friend and jewelry client Rebekah Harkness.
A year ago, very few people would have recognized that name but then quarantine hit, and a singer with a name everybody knows, Taylor Swift, wrote a song about Harkness and her Rhode Island mansion, which the singer now owns.
According to Swift, Harkness blew through her money “on the boys and the ballet, and losing on card game bets with Dalí.”
The Standard Oil heiress also reportedly spent a significant amount of money buying the Spanish artist’s rare jewels, including the “Étoile de Mer” brooch, and apparently had fun wearing them.
Images of Harkness wearing the brooch, which has fully flexible arms and comes with two butterflies that can be attached to its arms (Dalí was a surrealist, remember), show it draped over her shoulder.
María Félix’s Flair
I don’t know much about María Félix, but I do know this: She was not a woman who went for understated jewelry.
Several jewels that once belonged to the Mexican singer and actress, who starred in nearly 50 films between 1943 and 1970, are featured in “Beautiful Creatures.”
There is an incredible, 22-inch long, fully flexible snake covered in 2,473 brilliant and baguette-cut diamonds that, Marion noted, has an edgy look for Cartier.
There are a pair of gold and enamel snake ear clips, also by Cartier, so large I thought they were a matching set of bangles at first glance.
María Félix’s 22-inch long diamond-set snake necklace, as shot by the author. The red, green and black enamel on the snake’s underbelly is an homage to the Mexican flag.
And then there is her famous yellow diamond and emerald crocodile necklace (pictured at top of article).
As the story goes, in 1975, Félix brought two live baby crocs into the Cartier store on Rue de la Paix in Paris to serve as “inspiration” for the designers and, according to Marion’s book, to let them know she was serious about wanting a crocodile jewel.
The reptiles are covered in 1,023 fancy intense yellow diamonds totaling 60.02 carats and 1,060 emeralds totaling 66.86 carats.
The legs can be removed as well in case you’re looking for a little something more demure, which Félix definitely was not.
The Case for Bugs
One of the Air cases in the exhibition is filled with insects, and I love it.
Insect accessories were extremely popular in the late 19th century, due in part to the opening of museums like the American Museum of Natural History, which was founded in 1869, Marion explained.
Boucheron made this stag beetle brooch in 1895 using diamonds, rubies and white and yellow gold. It has a removable pin on the back that allows it to be worn as a pendant or hair ornament as well. (Credit: © Boucheron)
French goldsmith Lucien Gaillard, who crafted Art Nouveau-style jewelry, made this grasshopper ring around 1900. It is gold and enamel with cabochon emerald eyes. (Credit: Private collection, courtesy of Albion Art Jewellery Institute)
These museums opened people’s eyes to the diversity of the natural world. They wanted to express their newfound interest and appreciation through jewelry, and the jewelers of that time obliged.
There is a fly and a bee by Tiffany & Co., a stag beetle and a cicada from Boucheron, a Van Cleef & Arpels wasp, a Lucien Gaillard grasshopper, and a pin by Tiffany that one of the museum’s entomologist identified as a leaf weevil.
Our Favorites
Most of the time, when you ask a creator to pick a favorite among their works, they tell you they couldn’t possibly, that it would be like selecting a favorite child.
Marion, however, doesn’t have this hang-up with the exhibition she’s spent the last three years curating.
She willingly shared that her favorite section is the display of butterfly jewels artfully displayed along the back wall of the exhibition.
The collection of butterfly jewels in “Beautiful Creatures” highlights the individual artistry designers bring to the pieces they create, Marion said, and it showcases how styles, interpretations and use of materials change over time.
Marion Fasel’s favorite part of the “Beautiful Creatures” exhibition is the backwall of butterflies, part of the display of Creatures of Air. (Credit: D. Finnin/©AMNH)
Six of Suzanne Belperron’s butterfly brooches are on display in the exhibition, all made in the ‘30s and ‘40s. This one features multicolored sapphires, tourmalines, beryls, amethysts, gold and enamel. (Credit: Photo by David Behl, © Belperron)
This shot by the author shows a few Cartier panthers on the prowl in one of the cases dedicated to Land Creatures. The author’s favorite feline of the group, the big cat lounging on a lapis lazuli branch, is at left.
As a cat lover and owner, my instinct should be to select a piece from the final case we perused during my tour, a collection of land mammals that includes a few Cartier panthers as well as a Van Cleef & Arpels lion brooch that belonged to Brooke Astor and a lion shoulder brooch by Boivin.
But I have to say my top jewel overall is the grasshopper ring by Lucien Gaillard, a gold, enamel and cabochon emerald piece from 1900 just because it’s so unexpected.
Please don’t tell my cat.
“Beautiful Creatures” is located within the new Allison and Roberto Mignone Halls of Gems and Minerals at the American Museum of Natural History. It is on display through Sept. 19 in the Melissa and Keith Meister Gallery, the museum’s first space for rotating exhibitions within one of its permanent halls.
The just-renovated gem halls officially reopen to the public on Saturday, June 12.
Marion Fasel’s book written to accompany the exhibition, “Beautiful Creatures: Jewelry Inspired by the Animals Kingdom” is available now.
But I have to say my top jewel overall is the grasshopper ring by Lucien Gaillard, a gold, enamel and cabochon emerald piece from 1900 just because it’s so unexpected.
Please don’t tell my cat.
“Beautiful Creatures” is located within the new Allison and Roberto Mignone Halls of Gems and Minerals at the American Museum of Natural History. It is on display through Sept. 19 in the Melissa and Keith Meister Gallery, the museum’s first space for rotating exhibitions within one of its permanent halls.
The just-renovated gem halls officially reopen to the public on Saturday, June 12.
Marion Fasel’s book written to accompany the exhibition, “Beautiful Creatures: Jewelry Inspired by the Animals Kingdom” is available now.
More on Editors
The Latest
Events & AwardsJul 25, 2025
Pre-Registration Open for September Hong Kong ShowJewellery & Gem World Hong Kong is scheduled for Sept. 15 to 21, and buyer pre-registration will be available until Sept. 7.
FinancialsJul 25, 2025
LVMH Sales Slip in H1 Amid ‘Prevailing Uncertainties’Renovations at Tiffany & Co. stores ate into profits in the company’s watch and jewelry division.
Brought to you by
Taking the Moment Head On: How Rio Grande Champions the Present & Future of Fine JewelryAs a leading global jewelry supplier, Rio Grande is rapidly expanding and developing new solutions to meet the needs of jewelers worldwide.
Events & AwardsJul 24, 2025
2 Retailers to Receive 2026 Gem Award for Lifetime AchievementMark and Candy Udell of London Jewelers will receive the honor at the 24th annual Gem Awards next March.
Weekly QuizJul 25, 2025
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
SourcingJul 24, 2025
De Beers Sees Diamond Production Sink 36% in Q2 While struggles continue at the mining and trading end of the pipeline, consumer demand for diamond jewelry is holding steady.
CollectionsJul 24, 2025
Francesca Villa Adds Dimension to Her Intaglio CharactersThe “Fantasia” jewelry collection turns the intaglio animals from her “Close Encounters” collection into 3D characters.
Brought to you by
Investing in the Next Generation of Bench JewelersThe Seymour & Evelyn Holtzman Bench Scholarship from Jewelers of America returns for a second year.
WatchesJul 24, 2025
Breitling Drops Super Bowl Watch Honoring the Philadelphia Eagles The special Classic Avi Chronograph 42 with an Eagles-green dial is limited to 59 pieces, a nod to the Super Bowl Philadelphia just won.
CrimeJul 23, 2025
JSA Warns of Violent String of Smash-and-Grabs in California JSA has received reports of mobs swarming jewelry stores, driving cars into the storefront or smashing through the windows.
CollectionsJul 23, 2025
Silvia Furmanovich’s ‘Kashmir’ Collection Is a Tribute to Northern IndiaThe “Kashmir” collection features centuries-old craft techniques made in collaboration with the region’s master papier-mâché artisans.
IndependentsJul 23, 2025
Montreal’s Ecksand Eyes Move to SoHoCreative Director Erica Bianchini shared why the jeweler is looking to expand into the U.S. and how it’s putting Canadian craftsmanship on the map.
IndependentsJul 23, 2025
IJO Raises Nearly $37K for LA Fire Relief Two Los Angeles Fire Department stations plan to use the donations to upgrade their equipment and tools.
CollectionsJul 22, 2025
Jewelry With a Rock ‘n’ Roll Aesthetic Heads to Sotheby’s LondonNext week, the auction house will kick off a selling exhibition of jewelry by British artist Hannah Martin and Coldplay’s Guy Berryman.
SourcingJul 22, 2025
Antwerp Diamond Heist Documentary Coming to Netflix“Stolen: Heist of the Century” is based on “Flawless,” the book about the middle-of-the-night theft, and will debut on Netflix in August.
ColumnistsJul 22, 2025
The Gifting Gap: How to Market Jewelry Beyond the HolidaysEmmanuel Raheb shares the top five gifting moments outside of major holidays that jewelers should build marketing campaigns around.
Events & AwardsJul 22, 2025
NY Now’s Summer Market Returns in AugustThe wholesale trade show’s Luxury Lifestyle section will showcase established and emerging jewelry designers.
MajorsJul 21, 2025
Rio Grande Expands Personalization OfferingsAs demand for custom jewelry grows, the company is expanding its services to support retailers.
Events & AwardsJul 21, 2025
NAJA’s 2025 ‘Ace It’ Conference To Go VirtualThe mid-year conference for jewelry and watch appraisers is slated for Aug. 9 to 10 on Zoom.
TrendsJul 21, 2025
Amanda’s Style File: Graduated With Honors Graduated stones make for elevated tennis-style pieces and dramatic statement necklaces.
Events & AwardsJul 21, 2025
Gem Awards Now Accepting Nominations for 2026Nominations in the categories of Jewelry Design, Media Excellence, and Retail Innovation will be accepted through July 30.
MajorsJul 18, 2025
Lewis Heyman on Sourcing Gemstones, Post-Retirement PlansHe retired last month after 28 years traveling the world to source the very best gemstones for his family’s jewelry business, Oscar Heyman.
TrendsJul 18, 2025
Piece of the Week: CCWW Designs’ Shell Charm NecklaceThe charm necklace features six nautical charms of shells and coral that founder Christina Puchi collected on Florida’s beaches.
MajorsJul 18, 2025
Plumb Club Elects New Board MembersThe organization elected its youngest vice president as it looks to draw in fresh talent.
TechnologyJul 18, 2025
Brad Campbell, John Liebler Join Clientbook’s Executive Team Campbell joins the company as vice president of business development while Liebler is the new vice president of operations.
CollectionsJul 17, 2025
2026 Winter Olympic Medal Design Symbolizes UnityThe medals feature a split-texture design highlighting the Games’ first time being hosted by two cities and the athletes’ journeys.
Supplier BulletinJul 17, 2025
The INSTORE Jewelry Show 2025: Your Holiday Preparations, All Wrapped Up! Sponsored by The INSTORE Jewelry Show 2025
