MajorsJan 23, 2026
Watches of Switzerland Acquires 4-Store Jewelry Chain in TexasFamily-owned jewelry and watch retailer Deutsch & Deutsch has stores in El Paso, Laredo, McAllen, and Victoria.
EditorsJun 04, 2021
Out & About: The Stories Behind These ‘Beautiful Creatures’
Editor-in-Chief Michelle Graff is eager to get out. Her first stop: the new jewelry exhibition at the American Museum of Natural History.
María Félix’s famous crocodile necklace by Cartier is crafted in gold with emeralds, yellow diamonds, and rubies for the eyes. It is one of the more than 100 jewels on display as part of the “Beautiful Creatures” exhibition at the American Museum of Natural History in New York. (Credit: Nils Herrmann, Cartier Collection © Cartier)
Last Friday, I took a subway ride up to the American Museum of Natural History, where Marion Fasel has been spending most of her time.
The jewelry author and historian curated an exhibition of animal jewelry for the museum called “Beautiful Creatures.”
As writers do, she penned an accompanying book of the same name, which I recommend to jewelry lovers, particularly jewelry lovers who are also animal lovers.
“Beautiful Creatures” is housed in a rotating exhibition space adjacent to the museum’s just-renovated gem halls, which will reopen to the public next weekend after several years of construction and COVID-related delays.
Marion, who’s basically a walking encyclopedia of jewelry history, gave me a personal tour of the exhibition, and it was wonderful.
It was wonderful to get dressed, to leave my apartment for hours at a time, to take the subway somewhere with purpose, to catch up with one of my favorite colleagues, and to talk jewelry (and other things) in person again.
For me, it’s the people who make this industry enjoyable and I’ve missed you.
Over the next couple of weeks, I’m planning to bring you more stories of being “Out & About,” and I look forward to reuniting with some of you at the Vegas shows later this summer.
In the meantime, enjoy this verbal and visual tour of “Beautiful Creatures.”
A Splashy Opening
The exhibition is divided into categories based on where the featured creatures mostly dwell: Creatures of Air, Creatures of Land and Creatures of Water.
There are no barnyard animals, no household pets and no jewels that include animal forms as an afterthought, Marion told me at the start of my tour. All the pieces depict creatures in their entirety.
In curating the collection, Marion found inspiration within the walls of the museum—the Hall of Biodiversity was particularly inspiring, she said—and narrowed her search for jewels to the last 150 years, a nod to the museum’s recent milestone.
The American Museum of Natural History celebrated its 150th anniversary in 2019.
“Beautiful Creatures” opens with a case containing Creatures of Water, and Marion was at the ready to share the history behind each piece.
There’s a moonstone jellyfish brooch Jean Schlumberger made for dear friend and client Bunny Mellon after she was stung by one, a modern opal Man O’ War brooch crafted by Paula Crevoshay, two of Fulco di Verdura’s Lion’s Paw Shell brooches, and one of the four Boivin amethyst and ruby starfish brooches known to exist.
The jewelry author and historian curated an exhibition of animal jewelry for the museum called “Beautiful Creatures.”
As writers do, she penned an accompanying book of the same name, which I recommend to jewelry lovers, particularly jewelry lovers who are also animal lovers.
“Beautiful Creatures” is housed in a rotating exhibition space adjacent to the museum’s just-renovated gem halls, which will reopen to the public next weekend after several years of construction and COVID-related delays.
Marion, who’s basically a walking encyclopedia of jewelry history, gave me a personal tour of the exhibition, and it was wonderful.
It was wonderful to get dressed, to leave my apartment for hours at a time, to take the subway somewhere with purpose, to catch up with one of my favorite colleagues, and to talk jewelry (and other things) in person again.
For me, it’s the people who make this industry enjoyable and I’ve missed you.
Over the next couple of weeks, I’m planning to bring you more stories of being “Out & About,” and I look forward to reuniting with some of you at the Vegas shows later this summer.
In the meantime, enjoy this verbal and visual tour of “Beautiful Creatures.”
A Splashy Opening
The exhibition is divided into categories based on where the featured creatures mostly dwell: Creatures of Air, Creatures of Land and Creatures of Water.
There are no barnyard animals, no household pets and no jewels that include animal forms as an afterthought, Marion told me at the start of my tour. All the pieces depict creatures in their entirety.
In curating the collection, Marion found inspiration within the walls of the museum—the Hall of Biodiversity was particularly inspiring, she said—and narrowed her search for jewels to the last 150 years, a nod to the museum’s recent milestone.
The American Museum of Natural History celebrated its 150th anniversary in 2019.
“Beautiful Creatures” opens with a case containing Creatures of Water, and Marion was at the ready to share the history behind each piece.
There’s a moonstone jellyfish brooch Jean Schlumberger made for dear friend and client Bunny Mellon after she was stung by one, a modern opal Man O’ War brooch crafted by Paula Crevoshay, two of Fulco di Verdura’s Lion’s Paw Shell brooches, and one of the four Boivin amethyst and ruby starfish brooches known to exist.
This shot by the author shows, from left to right at top, the Verdura Lion’s Paw Shell brooches, the Boivin starfish, and a starfish by Hemmerle and, at bottom, the Jean Schlumberger jellyfish, a seahorse by Guy Bedarida for Marina B, and an Elsa Peretti starfish.
The gold, ruby, diamond and pearl “Étoile de Mer” brooch by Salvador Dalí comes with two gem-set butterflies, which can be attached to the echinoderm’s arms. (Photo credit: Jake Armour, Armour Photography)
This Verdura Lion’s Paw Shell Brooch features a natural scallop shell set with sapphires and diamonds in gold, and is one of two in the exhibition. Duke Fulco di Verdura made the brooches using shells he purchased in the museum gift shop in 1940. (Courtesy of Stephen Webster)
The piece to see in this case is the “Étoile de Mer” ruby, diamond and pearl brooch by Salvador Dalí, purchased by his friend and jewelry client Rebekah Harkness.
A year ago, very few people would have recognized that name but then quarantine hit, and a singer with a name everybody knows, Taylor Swift, wrote a song about Harkness and her Rhode Island mansion, which the singer now owns.
According to Swift, Harkness blew through her money “on the boys and the ballet, and losing on card game bets with Dalí.”
The Standard Oil heiress also reportedly spent a significant amount of money buying the Spanish artist’s rare jewels, including the “Étoile de Mer” brooch, and apparently had fun wearing them.
Images of Harkness wearing the brooch, which has fully flexible arms and comes with two butterflies that can be attached to its arms (Dalí was a surrealist, remember), show it draped over her shoulder.
María Félix’s Flair
I don’t know much about María Félix, but I do know this: She was not a woman who went for understated jewelry.
Several jewels that once belonged to the Mexican singer and actress, who starred in nearly 50 films between 1943 and 1970, are featured in “Beautiful Creatures.”
There is an incredible, 22-inch long, fully flexible snake covered in 2,473 brilliant and baguette-cut diamonds that, Marion noted, has an edgy look for Cartier.
There are a pair of gold and enamel snake ear clips, also by Cartier, so large I thought they were a matching set of bangles at first glance.
María Félix’s 22-inch long diamond-set snake necklace, as shot by the author. The red, green and black enamel on the snake’s underbelly is an homage to the Mexican flag.
And then there is her famous yellow diamond and emerald crocodile necklace (pictured at top of article).
As the story goes, in 1975, Félix brought two live baby crocs into the Cartier store on Rue de la Paix in Paris to serve as “inspiration” for the designers and, according to Marion’s book, to let them know she was serious about wanting a crocodile jewel.
The reptiles are covered in 1,023 fancy intense yellow diamonds totaling 60.02 carats and 1,060 emeralds totaling 66.86 carats.
The legs can be removed as well in case you’re looking for a little something more demure, which Félix definitely was not.
The Case for Bugs
One of the Air cases in the exhibition is filled with insects, and I love it.
Insect accessories were extremely popular in the late 19th century, due in part to the opening of museums like the American Museum of Natural History, which was founded in 1869, Marion explained.
Boucheron made this stag beetle brooch in 1895 using diamonds, rubies and white and yellow gold. It has a removable pin on the back that allows it to be worn as a pendant or hair ornament as well. (Credit: © Boucheron)
French goldsmith Lucien Gaillard, who crafted Art Nouveau-style jewelry, made this grasshopper ring around 1900. It is gold and enamel with cabochon emerald eyes. (Credit: Private collection, courtesy of Albion Art Jewellery Institute)
These museums opened people’s eyes to the diversity of the natural world. They wanted to express their newfound interest and appreciation through jewelry, and the jewelers of that time obliged.
There is a fly and a bee by Tiffany & Co., a stag beetle and a cicada from Boucheron, a Van Cleef & Arpels wasp, a Lucien Gaillard grasshopper, and a pin by Tiffany that one of the museum’s entomologist identified as a leaf weevil.
Our Favorites
Most of the time, when you ask a creator to pick a favorite among their works, they tell you they couldn’t possibly, that it would be like selecting a favorite child.
Marion, however, doesn’t have this hang-up with the exhibition she’s spent the last three years curating.
She willingly shared that her favorite section is the display of butterfly jewels artfully displayed along the back wall of the exhibition.
The collection of butterfly jewels in “Beautiful Creatures” highlights the individual artistry designers bring to the pieces they create, Marion said, and it showcases how styles, interpretations and use of materials change over time.
Marion Fasel’s favorite part of the “Beautiful Creatures” exhibition is the backwall of butterflies, part of the display of Creatures of Air. (Credit: D. Finnin/©AMNH)
Six of Suzanne Belperron’s butterfly brooches are on display in the exhibition, all made in the ‘30s and ‘40s. This one features multicolored sapphires, tourmalines, beryls, amethysts, gold and enamel. (Credit: Photo by David Behl, © Belperron)
This shot by the author shows a few Cartier panthers on the prowl in one of the cases dedicated to Land Creatures. The author’s favorite feline of the group, the big cat lounging on a lapis lazuli branch, is at left.
As a cat lover and owner, my instinct should be to select a piece from the final case we perused during my tour, a collection of land mammals that includes a few Cartier panthers as well as a Van Cleef & Arpels lion brooch that belonged to Brooke Astor and a lion shoulder brooch by Boivin.
But I have to say my top jewel overall is the grasshopper ring by Lucien Gaillard, a gold, enamel and cabochon emerald piece from 1900 just because it’s so unexpected.
Please don’t tell my cat.
“Beautiful Creatures” is located within the new Allison and Roberto Mignone Halls of Gems and Minerals at the American Museum of Natural History. It is on display through Sept. 19 in the Melissa and Keith Meister Gallery, the museum’s first space for rotating exhibitions within one of its permanent halls.
The just-renovated gem halls officially reopen to the public on Saturday, June 12.
Marion Fasel’s book written to accompany the exhibition, “Beautiful Creatures: Jewelry Inspired by the Animals Kingdom” is available now.
But I have to say my top jewel overall is the grasshopper ring by Lucien Gaillard, a gold, enamel and cabochon emerald piece from 1900 just because it’s so unexpected.
Please don’t tell my cat.
“Beautiful Creatures” is located within the new Allison and Roberto Mignone Halls of Gems and Minerals at the American Museum of Natural History. It is on display through Sept. 19 in the Melissa and Keith Meister Gallery, the museum’s first space for rotating exhibitions within one of its permanent halls.
The just-renovated gem halls officially reopen to the public on Saturday, June 12.
Marion Fasel’s book written to accompany the exhibition, “Beautiful Creatures: Jewelry Inspired by the Animals Kingdom” is available now.
The Latest
WatchesJan 23, 2026
Damiani Group to Acquire Baume & MercierThe Italian luxury company purchased the nearly 200-year-old Swiss watch brand from Richemont.
TrendsJan 23, 2026
Martin Katz’s Earrings Call to Mind Wintry Weather Micro-set with hundreds of diamonds, these snowflake earrings recreate “winter’s most elegant silhouette,” and are our Piece of the Week.
Brought to you by
How Jewelers Can Fight Back Against Cell JammersCriminals are using cell jammers to disable alarms, but new technology like JamAlert™ can stop them.
MajorsJan 23, 2026
Rembrandt Charms Names New Director of Creative, Brand StrategyElla Blum was appointed to the newly created role.
Weekly QuizJan 22, 2026
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Supplier BulletinJan 22, 2026
The Rise of Centralized Sourcing in the Colored Gemstone MarketSponsored by RapNet
MajorsJan 22, 2026
Lugano Diamonds Finds a BuyerInvestment firm Enhanced Retail Funding, a division of Gordon Brothers, was the successful bidder.
Brought to you by
Impacting Tomorrow TodayHow Jewelers of America’s 20 Under 40 are leading to ensure a brighter future for the jewelry industry.
SourcingJan 22, 2026
De Beers To Release ‘A Diamond Is Forever’ BookIt explores the history of the iconic tagline and the company’s strategy to redefine the role of diamonds in society.
MajorsJan 22, 2026
Swarovski Appoints New North America PresidentRetail veteran Sindhu Culas has stepped into the role.
MajorsJan 22, 2026
Stuller Names New Chief Merchandising, Marketing, Sales OfficerTaylor Burgess, who has been at Stuller since 2013, was promoted to the newly created role.
PodcastsJan 21, 2026
Episode 1: High Gold Prices, the Diamond Dilemma, & What’s NextWas 2025 a good year for jewelers? Did lab-grown diamonds outsell natural? Find out on the first episode of the “My Next Question” podcast.
SourcingJan 21, 2026
Tucson Preview 2026: Earthy Tones and Innovative Shapes Buyers are expected to gravitate toward gemstones that have a little something special, just like last year.
CrimeJan 21, 2026
4 Men Charged in $1.7M California Smash-and-Grab Jewelry Store RobberyPlus, JSA’s Scott Guginsky discusses the need for jewelers to take more precautions as the gold price continues to climb.
IndependentsJan 21, 2026
Delaware Jeweler Felice Morris Dies at 91Morris’ most cherished role was being a mother and grandmother, her family said.
CollectionsJan 21, 2026
Bulgari Weaves New Collection of ‘Vimini’ Creations“Vimini” is the first chapter of the “Bulgari Eternal” collection that merges archival pieces with modern creations.
Events & AwardsJan 21, 2026
Jewelers Mutual’s ‘Conversations’ Retreat Returns to Discuss AIThe third edition will be held in Half Moon Bay, California, in April.
Events & AwardsJan 20, 2026
These Are the 5 Finalists for the David Yurman Gem Awards GrantThe grant is in its first year and was created to recognize an exceptional fine jewelry designer whose star is on the rise.
ColumnistsJan 20, 2026
First-Party Data Is the Most Valuable Asset Jewelers Have in 2026Data built on trust, not tracking, will be key to success going forward, as the era of “borrowed attention” ends, Emmanuel Raheb writes.
MajorsJan 20, 2026
Borsheims Hires New Assistant Facilities ManagerHeath Yarges brings two decades of experience to the role.
FinancialsJan 16, 2026
Richemont’s Jewelry Brands Shine in Q3Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Buccellati, and Vhernier had another successful holiday season, Richemont reported this week.
TrendsJan 16, 2026
Diane Lane's Brooch Buzzes at the 2026 Golden GlobesOur Piece of the Week is Lagos’ “Bee” brooch that was seen on the red carpet for the first time on Sunday.
CrimeJan 15, 2026
D.C. Rapper ‘Taliban Glizzy’ Sentenced to 18+ Years for Jewelry Store RobberiesTrevor Jonathan Wright led a crew in a string of armed robberies targeting South Asian-owned jewelry stores on the East Coast.
Events & AwardsJan 15, 2026
Jewelers of Americas’ ‘20 Under 40’ Nominations Now OpenThe program recognizes rising professionals in the jewelry industry.
Events & AwardsJan 15, 2026
Registration for JCK Las Vegas 2026 Is Now OpenA new lifestyle section and a watch showcase have been added to this year’s event.
TrendsJan 15, 2026
Don’t Double-Dip With This Golden ChipAvocados From Mexico is celebrating those who love to double-dip in game day guacamole with a 14-karat yellow gold tortilla chip necklace.
SourcingJan 15, 2026
Nearly 42-Carat Blue Diamond Discovered in South AfricaPetra Diamonds unearthed the 41.82-carat, Type IIb blue diamond at the Cullinan Mine.
