AuctionsSep 30, 2022
Red Diamond Earns $1.8M at AuctionThe final hammer price blew the pre-sale estimate out of the water.
EditorsOct 16, 2019
The Jewelry ABCs with Marla Aaron
The designer discusses her new collection and her epic London Fashion Week collaboration.
This week, Marla Aaron launched her new Alphabet Lock Collection. Locks are available in two sizes. A small 14-karat gold version sells for $1,675, while a large silver and 14-karat gold version sells for $1,200.
If, as common industry discourse dictates, the jewelry sector is hopelessly stuck in its ways, averse to change, doesn’t understand millennials or is engaged in an unsustainable retail model, no one bothered to inform Marla Aaron.
The New York City-based jewelry designer has found success by building her eponymous jewelry brand completely outside of traditional jewelry industry norms.
The New York City-based jewelry designer has found success by building her eponymous jewelry brand completely outside of traditional jewelry industry norms.
Her predominant design concept—a fine jewelry version of a carabiner that allows for infinite styling variations when mixed and matched with other locks, charms and chains, and which has garnered a legion of devoted fans—is itself an entirely unconventional piece of jewelry, combining functionality and utility with luxury.
Ditto with Aaron’s approach to selling.
Since her 2012 launch, the designer has developed a solid roster of retail accounts (Ylang 23 in Texas and Meter in San Francisco, among others) with an emphasis on independent companies over department stores and larger retailers.
Since her 2012 launch, the designer has developed a solid roster of retail accounts (Ylang 23 in Texas and Meter in San Francisco, among others) with an emphasis on independent companies over department stores and larger retailers.
Marla Aaron’s new alphabet lock is pictured alongside a Fordite lock at the Roland Mouret Spring/Summer 2020 runway show during London Fashion Week, held in September.
“We’re so careful with the distribution,” she told me when I recently visited her new Diamond District showroom (more on that later). “We’re not sold in department stores. We want the stores that we’re with to go deep in the collection.”
She’s also come up with entirely new jewelry retail concepts, like selling her wares in a vending machine set in various New York City locations.
Aaron has an uncanny ability to cultivate an authentic brand identity that continuously innovates and excites its customers while staying true to its essence, basically what every brand is trying to achieve in 2019.
This sense of who Aaron is as both person and company—she is irreverent and self-deprecating, yet substantive and classic—permeates the brand’s every pore, down to the staff photos on its website. Portraits with favorite foods? Genius.
“I think [jewelry] is an industry that’s struggling and you have to be willing to try new things,” she said. “Everything we do is an experiment.”
This fall, the designer unveiled a series of new projects and endeavors to entice her fan base, the most significant of which product-wise is the Alphabet Collection.
Marla Aaron locks, which have included different shapes over the years, from hearts to lightning bolts, have undergone their most serious makeover yet, now available in every letter of the alphabet.
Aaron was inspired by the 20th-century Bauhaus art movement “where beauty and industry came together,” as well as the rise of androgynous style in fashion. She drew the typeface herself and perfected the 26 styles, which come in two sizes, over the summer.
Editors' Picks
Sponsored by
Available this week, small locks are available in 14-karat gold for $1,675 and large versions are rendered in silver with a 14-karat gold closure for $1,200. Clients can have them entirely in 14- or 18-karat gold (or either size in platinum) by special order.
B is for bagel. Aaron launched the Alphabet locks with this social media campaign.
Aaron teased the arrival of the alphabet locks at London Fashion Week in September, where “R” and “M” locks floated down the runway on the necks of Roland Mouret models.
Aaron was still high off the experience when I met her just a couple of weeks later, wearing an intricately pleated white button-down shirt by the designer.
The relationship between the two began, as they tend to do these days, when Mouret slid into Aaron’s DMs on Instagram. They had never met, but the fashion legend was a fan of Aaron’s work.
In February this year they met in London and the beginning of a collaboration bloomed, with Mouret asking Aaron to participate in his spring/summer 2020 runway show.
“In the first meeting he said, ‘I don’t want you to do anything special. I just want you to do what you do and bring it to my show,’” Aaron recalled.
Mouret had come equipped with Instagram images of women wearing Aaron’s designs, wanting to channel their same thrown-on, individual style.
“He wanted it to feel effortless and that they were carrying their emotions with the jewelry,” she explained.
Aaron’s jasper disk earring on the Roland Mouret runway
The designers exchanged ideas, sketches and swatches in the months to come and Aaron was inspired to create new pieces.
“I can’t tell you how amazed I am at the generosity of Roland because when someone like that comes into your universe, it forces you to try new things and invariably new things happen,” she said.
Mouret loved Aaron’s Fordite (a material created from the car paint found on automobile factory floors, like the Ford factory in Detroit) pieces, for example. She created “supersized” Fordite and jasper disk earrings to make a serious runway impact ($1,200 to $2,000).
Then, she began imagining them as charms that could be attached to her locks. So she created “The Working Dot” ($575 in 18-karat gold), a piece that converts all of the earrings in her collection into charms.
Two of the new “Pierce-less” earrings on the Roland Mouret runway, alongside a bevy of Marla Aaron chains and locks.
As the show approached, Mouret informed Aaron that not all of the models cast would have pierced ears. So Aaron dreamed up “The Pierce-less Earring,” ($880 in 14-karat gold) a clip-on style sold individually that can be placed anywhere on the ear.
Aaron and a member of her team were on hand at the show and in the days leading up to it to assist with the styling efforts, led by 10 Magazine’s Sophia Neophitou. The stylist piled on the jewels, combining various chains and locks with the new Fordite and jasper earring-cum-pendants courtesy of The Working Dot, plus The Pierce-less Earring.
On the home front, Aaron’s also taken a baby step into retail.
Beginning this month, customers can make an appointment to visit the Marla Aaron New York City showroom to interact with the jewelry in person.
“I think it’s a really ideal scenario for people to come play with our jewelry,” she said, noting that customers were responding “really well” to the idea.
More on Editors
The Latest
Policies & IssuesSep 30, 2022
Voting Is Open for the Fairmined 100 Challenge’s Best CollectionThe winners, picked by a group of judges and voted as the public’s favorite, will be announced in a webinar on Oct. 11.
CollectionsSep 30, 2022
Piece of the Week: Fewer Finer’s ‘Family Bracelet’The engravable piece is a perfect family heirloom.
Brought to you by
6 Steps to Start a Dynamic Company CultureLearn how to better serve your employees, customers and community by having a dynamic and supportive company culture.
GradingSep 30, 2022
GSI India Names Ramit Kapur Managing DirectorKapur has spent nearly two decades working in the gemological labs sector of the jewelry industry.
Weekly QuizSep 29, 2022
This Week’s QuizTest your knowledge of the latest jewelry news with this quick test.
Supplier BulletinSep 29, 2022
How to Create an Engaging Experience and a Sparkling ReputationSponsored by Synchrony
SourcingSep 29, 2022
Q&A: Constantin Wild Celebrates 175 Years in the Colored Stone Business The family business’ fourth-generation eponymous owner reflects on the milestone and the market today.
Brought to you by
Committing to an Ethical Diamond BusinessWhile ethical mining is essential to a diamond business, they represent only a fraction of the responsibility bestowed on jewelers.
AuctionsSep 29, 2022
See the Top Lots in Christie’s Upcoming Rare Watch SaleAccording to Christie’s, the auction is its most important single-owner watch collection ever.
CollectionsSep 29, 2022
Trove Has a New Proposal: Ring BoxesThe jewelry box brand is expanding with both single and double ring boxes in red, mint green, and white.
SourcingSep 29, 2022
AGTA Names Jennifer Heebner Editor-in-Chief of its PublicationsThe association has also hired a new marketing manager and announced two staff transitions.
Policies & IssuesSep 29, 2022
JA Members Return to Capitol Hill to Voice Jewelers’ ConcernsThe topics up for discussion with lawmakers included inflation, rising interest rates, hiring challenges, and crime.
AuctionsSep 28, 2022
The 18-Carat ‘Fortune Pink’ Diamond Could Sell for $35M The pear-shaped fancy vivid pink diamond will lead the Christie’s Geneva Magnificent Jewels auction on Nov. 8.
SurveysSep 28, 2022
Consumer Confidence Rises in SeptemberU.S. consumer confidence rose for the second consecutive month as gas prices fell.
MajorsSep 28, 2022
Artistry’s 2023 Catalog Is Out NowThe jewelry catalog features an updated layout and 160 pages of product.
MajorsSep 28, 2022
JFC’s 2022 ‘Hope for the Holidays’ Program Is an Adorable Menagerie There are three designs to choose from this year, all featuring animals drawn by kids who have had wishes granted through Make-A-Wish.
AuctionsSep 27, 2022
In Betty White’s Blockbuster Estate Sale, Jewelry Held Its Own Fine jewelry comprised three of the auction’s top 10 lots, though it could not top her director’s chair or scripts from “The Golden Girls.”
CrimeSep 27, 2022
3 Suspects in Beverly Hills Smash-and-Grab Robbery ArrestedA total of four suspects are now in custody with police still on the lookout for the remaining two.
ColumnistsSep 27, 2022
Creative Connecting: Fun Ideas for Holiday 2022 In-Store EventsFrom a “whodunnit” murder mystery to a permanent jewelry party, Duvall O’Steen and Jen Cullen Williams share a wealth of suggestions.
MajorsSep 27, 2022
Stuller Releases 2 Updated Catalogs Ahead of the Holiday Season “Mountings 2023-2024” and “Diamonds & Gemstones 2023-2024” offer a vast selection of options to create custom pieces.
Events & AwardsSep 27, 2022
ICA’s 2023 Congress Will Be Held in Dubai The event will be hosted by the Dubai Multi Commodities Centre from Feb. 15-17.
IndependentsSep 26, 2022
Roberson’s Fine Jewelry to Close After 42 YearsThe store’s liquidation sale will showcase the mix of classic and unique jewels it’s known for stocking.
CollectionsSep 26, 2022
Go ‘Inside the Dream’ of Bulgari Via a New Documentary on Amazon Prime It follows Creative Director Lucia Silvestri as she crafts the brand’s high jewelry collections.
Recorded WebinarsSep 26, 2022
Watch: What Jewelers Should Know About InsuranceFrom safeguarding showcases to appraisal liability, insurance experts Mark Devereaux and Andrew Chipman share insurance tips for jewelers.
TrendsSep 26, 2022
Vahan Collabs With Wolf on a Jewelry BoxIt’s the first time in 50 years the brand has made something other than jewelry.
Events & AwardsSep 26, 2022
Texas Jewelers Association Rolls Out New Format for Design CompetitionThe competition takes place in tandem with TJA’s annual convention, known as the Texas Jewelers Roundup.
CollectionsSep 23, 2022
Pandora Reimagines Keith Haring’s Art in New CollectionThe limited-run collection features figures from Haring’s iconic street art on charms, bracelets, rings, and more.
