Editors

The Jewelry ABCs with Marla Aaron

EditorsOct 16, 2019

The Jewelry ABCs with Marla Aaron

The designer discusses her new collection and her epic London Fashion Week collaboration.

20191016_MarlaAaronHeader.jpg
This week, Marla Aaron launched her new Alphabet Lock Collection. Locks are available in two sizes. A small 14-karat gold version sells for $1,675, while a large silver and 14-karat gold version sells for $1,200.
If, as common industry discourse dictates, the jewelry sector is hopelessly stuck in its ways, averse to change, doesn’t understand millennials or is engaged in an unsustainable retail model, no one bothered to inform Marla Aaron. 

The New York City-based jewelry designer has found success by building her eponymous jewelry brand completely outside of traditional jewelry industry norms.

Her predominant design concept—a fine jewelry version of a carabiner that allows for infinite styling variations when mixed and matched with other locks, charms and chains, and which has garnered a legion of devoted fans—is itself an entirely unconventional piece of jewelry, combining functionality and utility with luxury.

Ditto with Aaron’s approach to selling. 

Since her 2012 launch, the designer has developed a solid roster of retail accounts (Ylang 23 in Texas and Meter in San Francisco, among others) with an emphasis on independent companies over department stores and larger retailers. 

Marla Aaron’s new alphabet lock is pictured alongside a Fordite lock at the Roland Mouret Spring/Summer 2020 runway show during London Fashion Week, held in September.
Marla Aaron’s new alphabet lock is pictured alongside a Fordite lock at the Roland Mouret Spring/Summer 2020 runway show during London Fashion Week, held in September.

“We’re so careful with the distribution,” she told me when I recently visited her new Diamond District showroom (more on that later). “We’re not sold in department stores. We want the stores that we’re with to go deep in the collection.”

She’s also come up with entirely new jewelry retail concepts, like selling her wares in a vending machine set in various New York City locations.

Aaron has an uncanny ability to cultivate an authentic brand identity that continuously innovates and excites its customers while staying true to its essence, basically what every brand is trying to achieve in 2019.

This sense of who Aaron is as both person and company—she is irreverent and self-deprecating, yet substantive and classic—permeates the brand’s every pore, down to the staff photos on its website. Portraits with favorite foods? Genius.

“I think [jewelry] is an industry that’s struggling and you have to be willing to try new things,” she said. “Everything we do is an experiment.”

This fall, the designer unveiled a series of new projects and endeavors to entice her fan base, the most significant of which product-wise is the Alphabet Collection.

Marla Aaron locks, which have included different shapes over the years, from hearts to lightning bolts, have undergone their most serious makeover yet, now available in every letter of the alphabet.

Aaron was inspired by the 20th-century Bauhaus art movement “where beauty and industry came together,” as well as the rise of androgynous style in fashion. She drew the typeface herself and perfected the 26 styles, which come in two sizes, over the summer.

Available this week, small locks are available in 14-karat gold for $1,675 and large versions are rendered in silver with a 14-karat gold closure for $1,200. Clients can have them entirely in 14- or 18-karat gold (or either size in platinum) by special order.

B is for bagel. Aaron launched the Alphabet locks with this social media campaign.
B is for bagel. Aaron launched the Alphabet locks with this social media campaign.

Aaron teased the arrival of the alphabet locks at London Fashion Week in September, where “R” and “M” locks floated down the runway on the necks of Roland Mouret models.

Aaron was still high off the experience when I met her just a couple of weeks later, wearing an intricately pleated white button-down shirt by the designer.

The relationship between the two began, as they tend to do these days, when Mouret slid into Aaron’s DMs on Instagram. They had never met, but the fashion legend was a fan of Aaron’s work.

In February this year they met in London and the beginning of a collaboration bloomed, with Mouret asking Aaron to participate in his spring/summer 2020 runway show.

“In the first meeting he said, ‘I don’t want you to do anything special. I just want you to do what you do and bring it to my show,’” Aaron recalled.

Mouret had come equipped with Instagram images of women wearing Aaron’s designs, wanting to channel their same thrown-on, individual style.

“He wanted it to feel effortless and that they were carrying their emotions with the jewelry,” she explained. 

Aaron’s jasper disk earring on the Roland Mouret runway
Aaron’s jasper disk earring on the Roland Mouret runway

The designers exchanged ideas, sketches and swatches in the months to come and Aaron was inspired to create new pieces.

“I can’t tell you how amazed I am at the generosity of Roland because when someone like that comes into your universe, it forces you to try new things and invariably new things happen,” she said.

Mouret loved Aaron’s Fordite (a material created from the car paint found on automobile factory floors, like the Ford factory in Detroit) pieces, for example. She created “supersized” Fordite and jasper disk earrings to make a serious runway impact ($1,200 to $2,000).

Then, she began imagining them as charms that could be attached to her locks. So she created “The Working Dot” ($575 in 18-karat gold), a piece that converts all of the earrings in her collection into charms. 

Two of the new “Pierce-less” earrings on the Roland Mouret runway, alongside a bevy of Marla Aaron chains and locks.
Two of the new “Pierce-less” earrings on the Roland Mouret runway, alongside a bevy of Marla Aaron chains and locks.

As the show approached, Mouret informed Aaron that not all of the models cast would have pierced ears. So Aaron dreamed up “The Pierce-less Earring,” ($880 in 14-karat gold) a clip-on style sold individually that can be placed anywhere on the ear.

Aaron and a member of her team were on hand at the show and in the days leading up to it to assist with the styling efforts, led by 10 Magazine’s Sophia Neophitou. The stylist piled on the jewels, combining various chains and locks with the new Fordite and jasper earring-cum-pendants courtesy of The Working Dot, plus The Pierce-less Earring.

On the home front, Aaron’s also taken a baby step into retail.

Beginning this month, customers can make an appointment to visit the Marla Aaron New York City showroom to interact with the jewelry in person.

“I think it’s a really ideal scenario for people to come play with our jewelry,” she said, noting that customers were responding “really well” to the idea.

Ashley Davisis the senior editor, fashion at National Jeweler, covering all things related to design, style and trends.

The Latest

Bulgari Invisible Violet Necklace and Rainbow Flow Necklace
CollectionsMay 21, 2025
Bulgari Highlights Its Colorful Past in Phenomenal ‘Polychroma’ Collection

The jeweler’s high jewelry collection features extraordinary gemstones, like a 241.06-carat emerald and the world’s fourth-largest spinel.

Industry analyst Edahn Golan
ColumnistsMay 21, 2025
Edahn’s Take: Analyzing the 2025 ‘$100 Million Supersellers’ List

In a special column for the State of the Majors, Edahn Golan breaks down what the top-performing fine jewelry sellers are doing right.

Beyoncé bolo tie necklace
MajorsMay 21, 2025
Beyoncé Dons Brilliant Earth Necklace During Cowboy Carter Tour

The bolo tie necklace is inspired by “Queen Bey” and set with a nearly 15-carat black diamond.

antique_Vegas_2024_by_headshot_stories_9454.jpg
Brought to you by
Las Vegas Antique Jewelry & Watch Show: Showcasing the Most Collectible Merchandise from Across the Globe

Gain access to the most exclusive and coveted antique pieces from trusted dealers during Las Vegas Jewelry Week.

Gem Legacy logo
SourcingMay 21, 2025
Gem Legacy Expands Advisory Council

The nonprofit focused on mining communities in East Africa has added three new members to its advisory council.

Weekly QuizMay 15, 2025
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Annie Doresca
MajorsMay 20, 2025
Annie Doresca to Lead DCA as New CEO, President

Current Diamond Council of America President and CEO Terry Chandler is set to retire in January 2026.

QVC Group logo
FinancialsMay 20, 2025
QVC Group to Voluntarily Delist from Nasdaq

The company's Series A shares will continue to trade following a reverse stock split while its Series B shares will be delisted.

Supplier Spotlight -Recorded-Webinar.png
Brought to you by
Watch: The Winston Red: GIA Examines the Smithsonian’s Newest Addition

Supplier Spotlight Sponsored by GIA

National Jeweler columnist Peter Smith
ColumnistsMay 20, 2025
Peter Smith: Leading Through Change

Communicating clearly with your staff is key to navigating turbulent times, writes columnist Peter Smith.

Luis Morais Miami Beach Flagship Interior
IndependentsMay 20, 2025
Luis Morais Opens Flagship, Launches Collection Celebrating 25 Years

The “Inner Journey” collection debuted as the brand celebrated its 25th anniversary, with designs inspired by Morais’ journey.

Exterior of Tanishq Santa Clara Storefront
MajorsMay 20, 2025
Tanishq Opens Seventh U.S. Store

Tanishq is expanding its presence in the United States with a new store in Santa Clara, California, which is its largest in the country.

New Cartier store at Los Angeles airport
FinancialsMay 19, 2025
Jewelry Sales a Standout for Richemont in 2024

Sales for Richemont’s four jewelry brands increased 8 percent, while watch sales picked up toward the end of the year.

Instappraise and NAJA logos
Events & AwardsMay 19, 2025
NAJA Opens Scholarship Applications for 2025

Two scholarships are available, one for new and non-members and another for NAJA certified members.

Day’s Jeweler’s Tuscan Village Location Painting
IndependentsMay 19, 2025
Day’s Jewelers to Open Ninth Location

The retailer’s new flagship is set to open in October at the Tuscan Village development in Salem, New Hampshire.

Gemfields emeralds, rubies, sapphires
SourcingMay 19, 2025
State of Colored Stones: The Big Three in the Modern World

Sapphires, emeralds, and rubies are finding their place in a U.S. market captivated by the gemstones once referred to as “semi-precious.”

Saks on Amazon flagship window
MajorsMay 16, 2025
Saks Fifth Avenue, Amazon Partner on Luxury Online Storefront

Plus, parent company Saks Global announces plans to cut ties with up to 600 vendors.

Graphic for My Next Question webinar with guest Peter Smith
Recorded WebinarsMay 16, 2025
Watch: Physical Retail Is Not Dead

Peter Smith joined Michelle Graff to chat about the state of brick-and-mortar stores and share a few book and podcast recommendations.

Tejen Candy Bowl Torque Necklace
CollectionsMay 16, 2025
Piece of the Week: Tejen’s ‘Candy Bowl’ Torque Necklace

The necklace features a candy-colored Australian white opal in 18-karat Fairmined gold, as the brand was named a Fairmined ambassador.

1 Camilla Dietz Bergeron.jpg
Supplier BulletinMay 15, 2025
Treasure Hunting at the Las Vegas Antique Jewelry and Watch Show

Sponsored by the Las Vegas Antique Jewelry and Watch Show

The Mediterranean Blue diamond
AuctionsMay 15, 2025
'The Mediterranean Blue' Diamond Sells for $21M at Sotheby’s

A private American collector purchased the 10-carat fancy vivid blue diamond.

Jessica McCormack Fruit Salad Campaign Imagery
CollectionsMay 15, 2025
Jessica McCormack’s ‘Fruit Salad’ Collection Is Fresh for Summer

The designer has taken the appeal of freshly picked fruit and channeled it into a capsule collection of earrings, necklaces, and pendants.

Stock image of diamonds
SourcingMay 15, 2025
Tariffs Take Toll on India’s Gem and Jewelry Industry in April

The country’s gem and jewelry exports fell 5 percent year-over-year last month, while imports declined 18 percent.

Disability advocate Catarina Rivera, JVC ADA compliance guide, circle of hands wearing jewelry
Policies & IssuesMay 15, 2025
State of Retail: How to Better Serve Customers With Disabilities

Around 54 million Americans and counting live with a disability. Here’s how to make your jewelry store and website more accessible.

Sekou Andrews
Events & AwardsMay 15, 2025
Poet Sekou Andrews to Give Closing Keynote at Converge

The event is also accepting poster submissions now through June 16.

Pope Francis
Policies & IssuesMay 14, 2025
Here’s What Happened to Pope Francis’ Ring

Before Pope Leo XIV was elected, a centuries-old procedure regarding the late pontiff’s ring was followed.

1998 Cosmograph Daytona, Ref.16516 Rolex
AuctionsMay 14, 2025
Custom Rolex Pulled From Sotheby’s Sale

The one-of-a-kind platinum Rolex Cosmograph Daytona was estimated to fetch up to $1.7 million.

Jeweler Constance Polamalu at Bloomstone, a store that specializes in lab-grown diamonds
Lab-GrownMay 14, 2025
State of Diamonds: What’s Next for Lab-Grown Diamonds?

While the product has entrenched itself in the market, retailers and consultants are assessing the next phase of the category’s development.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy