Editors

What Do We Mean When We Say ‘Ethical’ Sourcing?

EditorsMar 25, 2019

What Do We Mean When We Say ‘Ethical’ Sourcing?

One group wants to define key supply chain terms, and they are looking to the industry for input on how to do it.

Responsible-sourcing-stock.jpg
A group formed during the first Jewelry Industry Summit now wants to define key supply chain terms, like ethical, sustainability and Fairtrade, and get the industry’s feedback on them. (Photo credit: Gem Legacy)

The conversation around “responsible sourcing,” “ethical supply chains” and whatever other buzzwords you might want to use to talk about transparency in the supply chain is here to stay.

There’s a plethora of conferences, panels at trade shows and other initiatives that back that up.

Tucson 2019 was no different.

However, when I returned from this year’s trip to the desert, another element was becoming clear to me: The industry is at a point where it risks having too many different conversations and too many different meanings for these terms, possibly creating more confusion than clarity.

I ended my post-Tucson observations blog post with this point because I wanted it to stick.

Luckily for me, that article got in front of the right people. Just hours after it was published, someone working with a group to address this very issue contacted me.

Emily Phillippy, the designer behind Emily Chelsea Jewelry, has been heading up a group working to establish industry-accepted definitions for several supply chain-related words.

Joining Phillippy are Jared Holstein and Jay Moncada of diamond and colored stone wholesaler Perpetuum Jewels, Erin Daily of Brooklyn Metalworks, sustainable jewelry consultant Christina Miller and designer Olivia Suffern of Olivia Marie Handcrafted Adornment.

What started as the Education Initiative during the first Jewelry Industry Summit in 2016 evolved into the Jewelry Glossary Project after they realized they were asking themselves, Phillippy said, “How can we educate anyone if we do not even have a shared set of definitions for the terms we are using?”

RELATED CONTENT—Analysis: The State of the Colored Stone Market
So, they shifted their focus to eliminating ambiguity in key jewelry terms.

At first the list was long, but eventually they narrowed it down to a smaller group of words they thought were “most important, most used, most relevant and usually most confusing,” Phillippy said.

Then they went to work defining them in a way that can be used across all sectors of the industry.

To do this, the group referenced common use, domestic and international legal documents, and standards pertaining to jewelry or its components.

“We spent a lot of time on each word,” Phillippy said, “then we went back and spent a lot of time again on each word.”

The biggest challenge? Keeping opinion out if of it, according to Phillipy.

“We wanted to keep them as simple as possible, but it’s really hard to simplify when
there’s so much we want to say.”

This is why the Jewelry Glossary Project group also added explanations to go along with some of the definitions, to tack on pertinent notes on usage or examples.
“How can we educate anyone if we do not even have a shared set of definitions for the terms we are using?”—Jewelry designer Emily Phillippy
So far, the jewelry glossary defines 10 words: ethical, recycled, post-consumer recycled, pre-consumer recycled, sustainability, conflict-free diamond, Fairmined, Fairtrade, Fair Trade Certified and fair trade.

Now, the group wants feedback on its definitions from the trade and is doing so via a survey.

“We want these to be the industry-wide accepted definitions so that we can all communicate in the same way,” Phillippy said. “That’s our biggest goal: that we can all understand when we’re talking retailer to wholesaler, and retailer to consumer.”

The group is opening to adding to and changing the list; Phillipy said they consider it to be an “ever-changing document.”

“As times change, as meanings change, as new technology becomes available, the definitions might change as well.”

They presented their definitions at this year’s Jewelry Industry Summit, where some trade members also suggested a few other words be added to the list, including: transparency, traceability, social responsibility/corporate responsibility, economic sustainability, social sustainability and environmental sustainability.

The group hasn’t yet started defining those. For now, the focus is on the initial 10.

Eventually, they do want the glossary to live on its own website and be independent—not affiliated with any one organization—and be accessible for all businesses and trade groups to reference or share.

For now, though, the group is still working on its marketing plan, Phillipy said, and their next steps also will include figuring out how they will disseminate the glossary to the industry and consumers alike.
Brecken Branstratoris the senior editor, gemstones at National Jeweler, covering sourcing, pricing and other developments in the colored stone sector.

The Latest

Bergman Jewelers family
IndependentsApr 01, 2025
Bergman Jewelers in Omaha Closing After 137 Years

The independent jeweler first opened its doors in 1888.

QVC Group Inc. logo
MajorsApr 01, 2025
QVC Group to Cut 900 Jobs in the U.S.

The layoffs come amid the TV shopping channel’s efforts to restructure and focus on live shopping through social media.

Coconut Grove Jewelry & Watch Show
Events & AwardsApr 01, 2025
U.S. Antique Shows Adds Fall Show in Florida

The debut event will take place in Miami’s Coconut Grove neighborhood this fall.

bench jeweler 1872x1052.png
Brought to you by
The Heart of the Industry: Giving Bench Jewelers the Recognition They Deserve

Bench jewelers spend years honing their skills, Jewelers of America’s Certification validates their talents.

The Jewelry Symposium (TJS)
Events & AwardsApr 01, 2025
TJS to Host Discussion on Jewelry Industry’s Labor Shortage

The roundtable will take place May 17 ahead of the trade show’s welcome dinner.

Weekly QuizMar 27, 2025
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Peanuts x Monica Rich Kosann Collection Bracelets
CollectionsApr 01, 2025
Monica Rich Kosann Says ‘Good Grief’ in Peanuts Jewelry Collection

The “Peanuts x Monica Rich Kosann” collection features the comic strip’s classic vocabulary across 10 bracelet designs.

Graphic for What Do We Mean When We Say “Recycled” Gold webinar
Recorded WebinarsMar 31, 2025
Watch: What Do We Mean When We Say ‘Recycled’ Gold?

Three industry experts dive into the complexities of the material often marketed as an “ethical” alternative for metal in jewelry.

Facets-of-Fire-Difference-You-Can-See.jpg
Brought to you by
Natural Diamonds Should Mean More

Natural diamonds mean more than lab-grown, but when every cut is ideal, they all look the same. Customers want more—Facets of Fire delivers.

Mindi Mond Clarity Earrings
TrendsMar 31, 2025
Amanda’s Style File: Dripping in Diamonds

Diamonds are not only one of the most prominent gemstones, but the birthstone for those born in April.

Lashbrook ring
MajorsMar 31, 2025
Lashbrook Expands Into Luxury Golf Gifts With Acquisition

The Utah-based company known for making wedding bands has acquired Doubloon Golf.

Bulgari and LVMH Watches CEO Jean-Christophe Babin
WatchesMar 31, 2025
Bulgari CEO Jean-Christophe Babin Will Also Head LVMH Watches

The longtime luxury executive led one of LVMH’s watch brands, TAG Heuer, for 12 years before taking over Bulgari in 2013.

Surveillance footage of robbery
CrimeMar 28, 2025
2 Suspects Arrested in $1.7M Smash-and-Grab Robbery of NY Jewelry Store

Authorities said the robbers fled with jewelry and 70 Rolex watches, later taking pictures of themselves posing with big stacks of cash.

Nephrite and Jadeite by Heinrich Fischer, Richard W. Hughes
SourcingMar 28, 2025
19th-Century Jade Book Now Available in English

Lotus Gemology founder Richard W. Hughes has translated Heinrich Fischer’s 1880 book “Nephrit und Jadeit” from its original German.

LÖF The Valentine Ring
CollectionsMar 28, 2025
Piece of the Week: Löf’s ‘The Valentine’ Ring

The ring's design features contrasting lines influenced by work from architecture-inspired photographer Nikola Olic.

Eggs on a shelf
SurveysMar 27, 2025
Consumer Confidence Falls in March Amid ‘Gloomy’ Outlook

The Conference Board’s index fell as consumers continued to worry about the impact of tariffs, the labor market, and the price of eggs.

Richard Rainsford memorial ring
AuctionsMar 27, 2025
300-Year-Old Ring Linked to Witch Trial Judge Goes Unsold at Auction

However, two medieval jewels surpassed estimates at Noonans Mayfair’s recent jewelry auction in London.

Austin Butler
WatchesMar 27, 2025
Austin Butler Joins Breitling as Brand Ambassador

The Oscar-nominated actor debuted in the campaign for the new “Top Time B31” collection, which introduced Breitling’s Caliber B31.

ICA Congress Brazil 2025
SourcingMar 27, 2025
Susan Jacques, Gaetano Cavalieri to Headline 2025 ICA Congress

The Congress is scheduled to take place May 19-22 in Brasilia, Brazil.

Bailey’s Fine Jewelry storefront
IndependentsMar 26, 2025
Bailey’s Fine Jewelry Acquires Fellow NC Independent Jeweler

The family-owned retailer is the new owner of Morrison Smith Jewelers in Charlotte, North Carolina.

Bulova 150 Art Deco Miss America Watch, 150 Art Deco Pocket Watch
WatchesMar 26, 2025
Bulova Celebrates 150th Anniversary With Art Deco Watches

The “150 Art Deco” collection features a Miss America timepiece and a pocket watch from the brand’s Archive Series.

Alex Wellen
MajorsMar 26, 2025
QVC Group Appoints New President

Alex Wellen, formerly CEO and president of MotorTrend Group, has taken on the role.

Jewelers of America’s new logo
Events & AwardsMar 26, 2025
Jewelers of America Announces New Funding Initiative

The Impact Initiative is part of the nonprofit association’s new three-year strategic plan.

Christies regent kashmir sapphire and regal Burmese ruby
AuctionsMar 25, 2025
Christie’s To Auction 35-Carat Sapphire, 13-Carat Ruby

The ruby and the sapphire, which Christie’s calls a “once-in-a-generation masterpiece,” are part of the upcoming Hong Kong jewelry auction.

Diamond earrings held in gloved hand
CrimeMar 25, 2025
Tiffany & Co. Earrings Swallowed Following Grab-and-Run Theft Recovered

The two pairs of earrings, snatched from a Tiffany & Co. store in Orlando, Florida, are valued at a combined $769,500.

Emmanuel Raheb CEO of Smart Age Solutions
ColumnistsMar 25, 2025
The Smart Lab: Using Short-Form Videos to Sell More Jewelry

The time to start experimenting with video content is now, writes columnist Emmanuel Raheb.

Pomellato Nudo High Jewelry Campaign
CollectionsMar 24, 2025
Pomellato’s Latest ‘Nudo’ Collections Revamp its Classic Design

From striking high jewelry to miniature fine jewelry, the new chapter continues to highlight gemstones featuring its signature 57-facet cut.

Jamie Singleton, Bill Brace, Rebecca Wooters, Bill Luth
MajorsMar 24, 2025
4 Top Executives to Depart Signet Jewelers Amid Turnaround

The jewelry giant is reducing its senior leadership by 30 percent as part of its new turnaround strategy.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy