AuctionsDec 18, 2025
Audemars Piguet Reclaims Historic Pocket Watch at AuctionIt purchased the “Grosse Pièce,” an ultra-complicated Audemars Piguet pocket watch from the ‘20s, for a record-breaking price at Sotheby’s.
EditorsSep 17, 2018
Is De Beers’ Lab-Grown Line a Fit for Signet?
Signet CEO Gina Drosos recently indicated the retailer would be open to carrying fashion jewelry set with man-made stones. Will Lightbox be the line for them?
A sampling of jewelry from Lightbox, De Beers’ line of fashion jewelry set with man-made diamonds. There is speculation in the market that Signet Jewelers, owner of Kay, Jared and Zales stores, might be in line to carry the collection.
Signet Jewelers CEO Gina Drosos made an intriguing statement toward the end of the company’s second quarter earnings call last month in response to a question from Needham & Co. analyst Rick Patel.
Patel noted that Signet is carrying an increasing number of pieces of jewelry set with lab-grown sapphires and rubies, and he asked if the retailer had plans to expand into man-made diamonds.
Signet, as has been well documented, has chosen not to carry any lab-grown diamond jewelry up until this point, even as more and more jewelry retailers—Helzberg, Reeds, Robbins Brothers, Borsheims and Amazon among them—have gotten on board with the category.
On the August earnings call, however, the retail CEO suggested that Signet might be open to man-made diamonds as long as they are not set in engagement rings.
I paraphrased Drosos’ words in my story reporting on Signet’s second quarter results. Below is her full statement, as included in the official transcript of the call.
“We have a very ‘customer first’ mindset on [lab-grown diamonds]. And we want to focus on delivering the products and experiences that customers want. So we are very closely monitoring and assessing the demand for this emerging category. What our research shows is that customers prefer natural diamonds for those really important purchases, bridal purchase, special birthday, graduations, those kinds of things. But there could be some growing interest in the fashion jewelry space for synthetic diamonds. So we’ll make sure that Signet is well positioned to participate in that space if the growth and the economics of it are attractive and if customers point us in that direction.”Drosos’ comments shook me out of my early-morning earnings call coma and immediately brought to mind another company’s stance on lab-grown diamonds: De Beers.
As I’m sure you have not forgotten, earlier this
year De Beers announced it would begin selling a line of fashion jewelry set with man-made pink, blue and white diamonds, online direct to consumers at first and then in select stores.
The company’s approach toward the line is to sell man-made stones cheap and market them for special but not-too-special occasions, keeping consumers focused on mined diamonds for their engagement rings and major anniversaries. They are, as one De Beers executive put it a Las Vegas lunch event introducing the line, for “friends, not fiancées.”
So it would seem that Drosos and De Beers have the same stance on where lab-grown diamonds belong on the consumer end of the market. And the two companies are already fairly closely aligned. The jeweler has been a De Beers sightholder since 2014, and it cuts and polishes its diamonds in one of the African countries where De Beers mines.
Signet was the first retailer tapped to participate in Tracr, De Beers’ blockchain program. It also is worth mentioning that Signet has a new concept store opening this fall, a millennial- and tech-focused store that will operate under the James Allen banner (and might be in line for fresh product that’s not carried in any other Signet stores.)
A line like Lightbox would also gel with Drosos’ long-term vision for the retailer, which includes stocking more fashion jewelry that appeals to women who are buying for themselves and, as she noted in her speech at JCK Las Vegas, “put[ting] jewelry at the forefront of our customers’ minds for many more occasions,” meaning birthdays and graduations, not just engagements.
A week after Signet announced its second quarter results and Drosos made her remarks about lab-grown diamonds, Rapaport’s website, Diamonds.net, ran a short news item that stated there is “growing speculation” that Signet might carry Lightbox.
For now, however, both parties are neither denying nor confirming the rumors.
De Beers, which is set to start selling Lightbox online later this month, said it hasn’t selected the retailers that will carry its lab-grown line yet, while Signet gave a classic corporate response when asked about Lightbox: “It’s our policy not to comment on market speculation.”
The company’s approach toward the line is to sell man-made stones cheap and market them for special but not-too-special occasions, keeping consumers focused on mined diamonds for their engagement rings and major anniversaries. They are, as one De Beers executive put it a Las Vegas lunch event introducing the line, for “friends, not fiancées.”
So it would seem that Drosos and De Beers have the same stance on where lab-grown diamonds belong on the consumer end of the market. And the two companies are already fairly closely aligned. The jeweler has been a De Beers sightholder since 2014, and it cuts and polishes its diamonds in one of the African countries where De Beers mines.
Signet was the first retailer tapped to participate in Tracr, De Beers’ blockchain program. It also is worth mentioning that Signet has a new concept store opening this fall, a millennial- and tech-focused store that will operate under the James Allen banner (and might be in line for fresh product that’s not carried in any other Signet stores.)
A line like Lightbox would also gel with Drosos’ long-term vision for the retailer, which includes stocking more fashion jewelry that appeals to women who are buying for themselves and, as she noted in her speech at JCK Las Vegas, “put[ting] jewelry at the forefront of our customers’ minds for many more occasions,” meaning birthdays and graduations, not just engagements.
A week after Signet announced its second quarter results and Drosos made her remarks about lab-grown diamonds, Rapaport’s website, Diamonds.net, ran a short news item that stated there is “growing speculation” that Signet might carry Lightbox.
For now, however, both parties are neither denying nor confirming the rumors.
De Beers, which is set to start selling Lightbox online later this month, said it hasn’t selected the retailers that will carry its lab-grown line yet, while Signet gave a classic corporate response when asked about Lightbox: “It’s our policy not to comment on market speculation.”
More on Editors
The Latest
Supplier BulletinDec 18, 2025
Cell Jammers Are Targeting Your Business. Here's How to Beat ThemSponsored by Digital Monitoring Products
WatchesDec 18, 2025
Bob’s Watches to Open Store in New York’s JFK AirportThe boutique is slated to open this week inside Terminal 8, offering pre-owned Rolex watches and more to international travelers.
Brought to you by
Impacting Tomorrow TodayHow Jewelers of America’s 20 Under 40 are leading to ensure a brighter future for the jewelry industry.
Lab-GrownDec 18, 2025
Kira Jewels Debuts Custom Lab-Grown Diamond Jewelry ServiceThe lab-grown diamond grower now offers custom engagement and fashion jewelry through its Kira Custom Lab Jewelry service.
Weekly QuizDec 11, 2025
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
CrimeDec 17, 2025
Man Pleads Not Guilty to Swallowing Fabergé PendantThe special-edition egg pendant ingested in a New Zealand jewelry store was recovered after a six-day wait.
CollectionsDec 17, 2025
Lucy Hale Stars in Jacquie Aiche’s Holiday CampaignThe “Love and Desire” campaign is inspired by the magic that follows when one’s heart leads the way, said the brand.
Brought to you by
Roseco Releases New Full-Line CatalogRoseco’s 704-page catalog showcases new lab-grown diamonds, findings, tools & more—available in print or interactive digital editions.
GradingDec 17, 2025
SSEF Announces 2025 Scholarship WinnersTwo awardees will receive free tuition for an educational course at the Swiss lab, with flights and lodging included.
MajorsDec 16, 2025
Pandora’s New CEO Will Step Up EarlyBerta de Pablos-Barbier will replace Alexander Lacik at the start of January, two months earlier than expected.
AuctionsDec 16, 2025
Suzanne Belperron, JAR Shine in Sotheby’s First Auctions at New HQSotheby’s held its first two jewelry sales at the Breuer building last week, and they totaled nearly $44 million.
Events & AwardsDec 16, 2025
TJS Now Accepting Scholarship Applications for 2026Winners will receive free registration and lodging for its fourth annual event in Detroit.
ColumnistsDec 16, 2025
Beyond Unboxing: Creative Reveals to Drive Reach and EngagementHere are six ideas for making more engaging content for Instagram Reels and TikTok, courtesy of Duvall O’Steen and Jen Cullen Williams.
Events & AwardsDec 16, 2025
Diamonds Do Good Names 2026 Award RecipientsThe honorees include a notable jewelry brand, an industry veteran, and an independent retailer.
CrimeDec 15, 2025
Men Receive Life Sentences in Home Invasion Murder of Jeweler Carlos Jose Hernandez and Joshua Zuazo were sentenced to life without the possibility of parole in the 2024 murder of Hussein “Sam” Murray.
Policies & IssuesDec 15, 2025
Sara Yood Named Co-Chair of RJC Standards CommitteeYood will serve alongside Eduard Stefanescu, the sustainability manager for C.Hafner, a precious metals refiner in Germany.
IndependentsDec 15, 2025
M.S. Rau to Open Store in AspenThe New Orleans jeweler is also hosting pop-up jewelry boutiques in New York City and Dallas.
AuctionsDec 12, 2025
13.54-Carat Paraíba Tourmaline Sets Records at Christie’sSet in a Tiffany & Co. necklace, it sold for $4.2 million, the highest price and price per carat paid for a Paraíba tourmaline at auction.
MajorsDec 12, 2025
David Webb Reveals Ice-Cold Holiday Window DisplayThe jeweler’s “Deep Freeze” display showcases its iconic jewelry designs frozen in a vintage icebox.
CollectionsDec 12, 2025
Piece of the Week: Oscar Heyman’s Sphene RingTake luxury gifting to new heights this holiday season with the jeweler’s showstopping 12-carat sphene ring.
Events & AwardsDec 12, 2025
IGI Jewelry Design Contest Now Accepting SubmissionsThis year's theme is “Unveiling the Depths of the Ocean.”
TrendsDec 11, 2025
Pinterest 2026 Trend Report: Brooches, Bold Gold, Cool BlueIn its annual report, Pinterest noted an increase in searches for brooches, heirloom jewelry, and ‘80s luxury.
GradingDec 11, 2025
GIA to Offer Origin Determination for 3 More GemstonesStarting Jan. 1, customers can request the service for opal, peridot, and demantoid garnet.
IndependentsDec 11, 2025
Look Inside Day’s Jewelers’ Ninth StoreThe 111-year-old retailer celebrated the opening of its new location in Salem, New Hampshire, which is its third store in the state.
MajorsDec 11, 2025
Americas Gold Releases New Gold Chain CatalogThe new catalog features its most popular chains as well as new styles.
AuctionsDec 10, 2025
Francis Ford Coppola’s Watch Sells for $10.8MThe filmmaker’s personal F.P. Journe “FFC” prototype was the star of Phillips’ recent record-setting watch auction in New York.
WatchesDec 10, 2025
There’s A New Rolex Boutique in MiamiThe new location in the Design District pays homage to Miami’s Art Deco heritage and its connection to the ocean.
