Gretchen Koback Pursel is the new chief people officer at the company formerly known as Saks Global.
Industry sees spike in business discontinuances
The JBT’s data shows a 32 percent increase in the number of companies that exited the industry in 2014. Dione Kenyon shares several plausible explanations for the spike.
Warwick, R.I.--Aging owners lacking a next generation waiting in the wings, the falling price of gold and a slow economic recovery contributed to the increased number of jewelry business that merged with another company or simply decided to close up shop in 2014.
According to Jewelers Board of Trade data for 2014, the number of businesses that ceased operations, consolidated or went bankrupt (recorded collectively by the JBT as business discontinuances) reached 1,010 in the United States and Canada last year, a 32 percent increase from 2013.
In the U.S. alone, there were 973 business discontinuances, including 612 retail jewelers who ceased operations, a 29 percent change from the previous year.
Though it has recorded bankruptcies for years, the JBT only began tracking non-bankruptcy business discontinuances--companies that ceased operations or consolidated due to a sale or merger--in 2009, during the most recent recession.
JBT President Dione Kenyon said while the number of business discontinuances recorded last year is an increase from the past couple of years, it is not the highest she has seen in the six years the JBT has kept tabs on this category.
There were 2,077 business discontinuances in 2009 and 2,012 the following year. That number fell to 943 in 2011 and has been sliding since, until last year’s spike.
Kenyon said there are a number of reasons why so many companies in the jewelry industry are opting to close up shop now, even though they weathered the worst of the recession.
To begin with, even though the economy is recovering it is doing so slowly--the U.S. is recording only 2 to 3 percent GDP growth each year--and many simply aren’t finding it worth it to stay open.
As jewelers, manufacturers and wholesalers would attest to, and many have expressed to National Jeweler, business is difficult these days. They have to work twice as hard to produce half the results.
Jewelers, for example, have to update their marketing, their stores and their inventory and grapple with thinning margins on top of the other concerns they have confronted for years, such as the risk of robbery and commodity prices.
“Our business contains a lot more in the way of risk than your typical independent small business,” Kenyon said. “It just makes the whole question of staying open that much more challenging. This is a high-risk business.”
There’s also demographic shifts--many in the industry
Kenyon said all these factors are feeding into a sort of “leveling out,” a wave of contractions, though she adds that it is not “severe” when compared with what the industry witnessed in the darkest days of the recession. “It doesn’t mean the industry is going bust, but there are things that are conspiring to make it contract.”
While the number of companies that ceased operations or consolidated increased year-over-year, bankruptcies actually continued their downward slide. Bankruptcies dropped by 20 percent year-over-year in the U.S. and were down 13 percent when including Canada, JBT data shows.
The bankruptcy tally has been falling for years, Kenyon said.
Companies used to file Chapter 11 and reorganize but recovering is not as easy today. There’s less bank financing available and, as mentioned above, business is more difficult, making it hard to map out a plan for how a company is going to make a comeback. As a result, there are fewer companies filing for bankruptcies and more companies ending up in the ceased operations category.
“(Before), there was something on the other side that made it worth it to spend the money to file for bankruptcy,” she said. “Now people just sort of say, ‘Hang it up. Here’s the keys, close the doors.’”
The Latest

Bromberg is remembered as a Southern gentleman who always wore a suit and tie and treated others with kindness.

With high durability and a wide range of colors to choose from, sapphires may be the ultimate birthstone, Gizzi claims.

Submit your pieces for a chance to win in this year's competition.

Laughter is often considered a distraction in the workplace, but it has benefits for both staff and management, Peter Smith writes.


The California jeweler is renovating its store in Fresno, with plans to show off the new space in December.

A lifelong practitioner of Pilates, Gabrielle looked to the springs’ tension and suspension when creating this ring, our Piece of the Week.

Retailers are seeking new ways to attract customers, increase traffic, and create revenue – Estate buying events are a popular solution.

The deadline to apply is Nov. 13.

The auction house has promoted Remi Guillemin, formerly its head of watches for the Americas and EMEA, to the role.

Zaven Ghanimian discussed the value of human craftsmanship and where the implementation of artificial intelligence does work.

Jewelers of America also revealed the recipients of the Seymour & Evelyn Holtzman Bench Scholarship and its own scholarship programs.

The British actor, known for his roles in “Twilight” and “The Odyssey,” will star in a campaign for the Master Control Chronometre.

The “Confetti Disco,” “Champagne Cheers,” “Tuxedo,” and “Classic Punk” jewelry collections each capture a distinct spirit of celebration.

Nelson Holdo of Newport Beach pleaded guilty to multiple counts of felony grand theft and writing bad checks and was sentenced Monday.

Cat ladies of the jewelry world, unite. Sandy Lerner’s “significant” collection of cat jewelry and other objects is going up for auction.

Arnaud Michon, the former Omega USA President, will now lead Messika’s Americas region during its international development.

The branding references the back-to-back jewelry shows that new parent company Forge will host in Miami's Coconut Grove this November.

The stainless steel Patek Philippe “Calatrava” watch from the 1930s sold for nearly $80,000 at a recent Hansons Cornwall auction.

Engagement rings are important but don’t ignore the customers who are buying jewelry “just because,” Emmanuel Raheb writes.

Former Pomellato CEO Sabina Belli has been named president of Kering Italia amid a shakeup of Kering's new Jewelry division.

The veteran luxury packaging executive was appointed to help the company grow its North American business.

Once the property of an Egyptian queen, the necklace was part of a larger exhibition of VCA jewelry at the Museum of Applied Arts (MAK).

The labs’ separate investigations each determined that the East African country is producing copper-bearing tourmaline.

“Chicago Collects: Jewelry in Perspective” at the Oshkosh Public Museum will feature works by Fabergé, Lalique, and Louis Comfort Tiffany.

The “Worn Well” collection is Catbird's take on classic men's jewelry.

This Buddha Mama butterfly is our Piece of the Week honoring the legend, who embraced the beautiful insect as her symbol.






















