Set in a Tiffany & Co. necklace, it sold for $4.2 million, the highest price and price per carat paid for a Paraíba tourmaline at auction.
Designer’s Diary: Starting Out, Part II
In part two of a two-part diary entry, Jacqueline Stone gives budding designers guidance on photographers, consultants, manufacturers and more.
New York--Last week, this column featured the research, tools and schools I’ve found most helpful in my journey as a jewelry designer.
MANUFACTURING
When I started my business I had grandeur fantasies of a sunlit studio, banging away at metal and sipping espresso. The harsh reality? I design and build jewelry about 25 percent of the time and the rest is spent paying bills, working with vendors, marketing, branding, networking…you name it. Maybe one day I’ll find more time to get back to my roots, but in the meantime I decided to find help. Talk to any fine jewelry business owner and you’ll quickly discover that they too are giving a portion of their work to an outside vendor. Below are some of my favorites. If you end up slamming Alvaro with work I’m coming after you!
Alvaro Nino: My work husband; our love affair started about four years ago, and I’m deeply indebted to this man. He is a master in every sense of the word and knows everyone on the street. He’s hands down the best jeweler I’ve ever met and it’s an honor to work with him. He’s old school so doesn’t have a website. You’ll find him most days at 62 West 47th Street, but I’ll leave it to you to figure out the rest. He keeps a low profile and it’s no wonder--he has more work than he knows what to do with. Maybe if you’re lucky I’ll give you his digits.
Carelle: New York City-based and emerging designer friendly. This family team delivers exceptional work if you can handle the made-in-America price point. I’m a huge fan.
Pampillonia: This family-run manufacturing house is based in Texas. I have nothing but good things to say about this hard working team who takes quality assurance to a whole other level.
PHOTOGRAPHERS
There are jewelry blog posts, books and magazine articles dedicated to the importance of good photography. Photographing jewelry is probably the toughest photo challenge on the block. It’s shiny, has a million facets, needs perfect lightening and a trained eye. Here are two of my absolute
Christina Tisi-Kramer: Creative, thoughtful and precise, this classically trained, out-of-the-box thinker with her photography masters teaches at FIT. She knows the product photography world inside out.
Russ Heller: Russ is one of the most motivated people I know. He doesn’t know how something works? He’ll take the time to figure it out and master it. He’s always staying on top of the latest technology.
CONSULTANTS
The bravest thing someone can say is “I don’t know.” I didn’t know anything when I started and wasn’t afraid to admit it. I think I cracked people up with my naiveté. You can’t do this alone; it’s impossible. Don’t be afraid to reach out and find professionals who have been there and whose main focus is to help little stars like you shine as brightly as possible.
Cindy Edelstein: All hail the queen! Don’t like what she has to say? Tough. Because 99.99 percent of the time she’s right and just wants to help.
Dixie “Dynamite” Gillipsie: Don’t like her price tag? Tough. Because she’s about to blow stuff up and help you get where you want to go. (i.e. I’m now a columnist at National Jeweler)
Melissa Hall: Hate social media and branding? That’s OK. Because Melissa is going to teach you everything you need to know and will keep you laughing along the way.
Rebecca Moskal: Would you rather chew broken glass than take a stab at public relations? That’s also OK. Rebecca has got you covered. And she isn’t afraid to think outside the box (pun intended).
ORGANIZATIONS
There are so many wonderful organizations in the jewelry community, but I’ll be the first to admit I’m horrible at networking events. Like a true artist, I’m an introvert, although my outgoing nature might convince you otherwise. I relish nights alone. I’ve been a member of this organization for a few years and can attest, their soirees cannot be beat. And please note: men can be members as well!
Women’s Jewelry Association: A fierce bunch of smart, successful, supportive and kind folk.
AWARDS
The thing that most artists struggle with is becoming more of a jewelry brand. I know I do. It feels weird to toot my own horn. But awards are essential as they help get your name out there. My DENYC Colleague, class of 2013, Marcia Budet, won an award in 2012 and the rest is history. It’s been magical watching her trajectory from architect to accidental jewelry artist. I love her work and winning the award in Italy put her on the map. Here are a few awards that I think are worth applying for.
Martha Stewart American Made: Need I say more? The winner gets $10,000 and help launching their line. Don’t forget to vote for either myself or Ms. Judi Powers! We are supposed to be competitors, but I can’t help being supportive friends. It’s what the jewelry community is all about!
AGTA Spectrum Awards: Such a diverse bunch of artisans celebrated and recognized for their beautiful work.
Centurion Emerging Designer Award: There are tons of great competitions, but this is one of my favorites. It’s designed to help the undiscovered talent get some much needed attention.
Feeling overwhelmed? Fret not. Just take one tiny step towards building your jewelry business and everything else will slowly fall into place. It’s been incredible putting this list together and seeing how far I’ve come. Just remember, you can’t do it alone. I’m a big believer in helping a fellow artist. It creates positive energy and a fun, infectious vibe that can’t be beat.
Jacqueline Stone has a background in finance, marketing, advertising, product development, fine jewelry manufacturing, design and sourcing. She currently is the chief creative officer of her company, Salt + Stone, working primarily with private clients to build custom engagement rings and wedding bands. Stone can be reached at shine@saltandstone.com.
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