Designer’s Diary: Small players, sticking together

definite win, or so I thought.

About two weeks into my “storefront” launch, which I had to set up with no help of an associate, I went to the site from a friend’s computer (where I wasn’t logged into my account.) It was impossible to find me as a vendor. Not only am I not listed as a National Vendor, but I’m not listed in New York City. I’m listed in “Outer Boroughs.” You have to click through about three to five windows before you even get a glimpse of my work.  As most of us know, you have 1.5 seconds to capture an audience on a website. The fact that I’m not listed in their engagement ring gallery had to be a mistake. I contacted customer service to voice my concern.

I started my inquiry with customer service trying to correct the error of my non-listing in the engagement ring gallery. After about 10 emails and threatening to cancel my account, I finally got the attention of a sales representative who let me know that this gallery is only reserved for “National Accounts” and has a much higher price point. In my response I outlined how this is extremely disadvantageous to helping new talent gain exposure and I was interested in cancelling my account.  

In the four weeks my storefront has been running, I’ve gotten 47 unique page views. I get that in about an hour on my own website. Where is the marketing value-add to the new business owner? No one from The Knot has yet to comment on my thoughts except to say, “We’re refunding your money.”

So what is a new designer trying to make headway in this enormous industry to do? Well, I’m taking it old school--small stores and word-of-mouth marketing. After thoughtful discussions with my peers, it seems to be the only way we can compete.  

Unfortunately what the large conglomerates have lost sight of is that one day there will need to be a new generation of talent. In my experience, they are doing absolutely nothing to support the emerging designer. And what is that large conglomerates don’t have?  An intimate and trustworthy relationship with their clientele, which is where we come in.

I was floored after the Chicago Smart show to get a hand-written note from Abby Lane at Trinity Jewelers. She had stopped by Kelim’s booth and we got to chatting. There are a huge number of us in this industry not for the almighty dollar, but because of the passion for the craft. Their fine jewelry store in Pittsburgh is no exception.  

They care about their clients, build hand-crafted pieces, take the time to hand-write a letter and most amazing of all?  They work with young new talent like myself, as they know that not only are they helping the “small fish” but, in the end, they are helping their bottom line.  

Their customers like to see hand-crafted work from passionate artists and Trinity does its best to deliver. When they approached me and Kelim owner Lori Gadola, they came at it with a sense of respect, collaboration and thoughtfulness. I think we can all learn a thing or two from their example.

Instead of your shop supporting only, or mostly, the big dogs (which shall remain nameless here for fear of getting hate mail), why not take the additional time to find some local talent? Or better yet, approach a designer in a far-off town whom you’ve never worked with before but whose work you absolutely adore?

I’m based in Brooklyn, but if Trinity wanted to host a trunk show for me in Pittsburgh, I’d be there in a heartbeat. They would be exposing me to an entirely new customer base and it would be worth the efforts.  

Small fine jewelry businesses need to capitalize on the extra lengths the emerging designer will go to in order to be heard in a sea of noise. Taking some of your marketing spend to help a new designer get noticed creates a beautiful synergy for both. Your customer base will become even more loyal, with an appreciation for your good efforts, and you’ll end up winning new clients as well.  

If I come to say, Nashville, to do a trunk show for you, my audience of 10,000 social media followers now will know about your shop. Not an immediate lead, but at least they might be willing to take a look. You’re now on an entirely new radar, which could always lead to something interesting.

Also, emerging designers are passionate, hungry and willing to go the extra mile. I know that I’d be willing to create an exclusive for your shop, if not a few pieces, as most of my work is handmade. It gives the small retailer an advantage to have something that nobody else has.  

Two jewelry retailers in Brooklyn that have been wildly successful are Clay Pot and Catbird because they agree with my sentiments. They stock their doors with unique pieces from talent across the country that are handmade by skilled jewelers.

Before I sign off, I’ll give us all a bit more food for thought. As you sit in your studio, shop or gallery window, do a quick inventory.  

Is the work passionate, thoughtful, impeccably crafted and supportive of large and small talent proportionately? Do you honestly adore every bridal piece in the case line? Or is a sea of “should,” i.e., “I should buy this as the margin is great;” “I should keep this in stock as it’s a growing trend;” “I should stock this designer as he gets a lot of attention.”

How are those “shoulds” working out for you? Sometimes it’s a brilliant synergy: You adore the work and it’s on-trend. Fantastic! But I encourage us all to do a little spring cleaning before we start the long, slow and methodical buy-in for holiday.  

Let’s start buying and building work that lights us on fire. Those embers will still be hot when our clients walk in the door.

Jacqueline Stone has a background in finance, marketing, advertising, product development, fine jewelry manufacturing, design and sourcing. She currently is the chief creative officer of her company, Salt + Stone, working primarily with private clients to build custom engagement rings and wedding bands. Stone can be reached at shine@saltandstone.com.