Other

A retailer’s solution to diamond grading confusion

OtherAug 24, 2014

A retailer’s solution to diamond grading confusion

Jeweler James Alperin says labs that want to give diamonds ‘trumped-up’ grades should develop their own grading system and not use the same scale popularized by the GIA. 

James-Alperin.jpg
James Alperin owns James Alperin Jewelers in Pepper Pike, Ohio. He can be reached at alpjewel@aol.com.

Diamond grading reports have become as ubiquitous to the jewelry industry as diamonds themselves. 

Diamonds were once color graded as Jagers, Cape, Top Silvercape, Wesselton and other names that indicated their color in vague terms. As we all know, that system of grading disappeared long ago.  

Jewelers needed to have a precise system of grading diamonds so that one stone accurately could be compared to another, removing the margin of error that had existed to that point. The large amount of money that rested on the slight improvement of a diamond’s grade made the exactness of diamond grading a must. Thus a standard system of grading was born using a precise compilation of letters for color and clarity grade. 

Today the precision of the diamond grading system is under attack from many different labs using the same grading scale popularized by the Gemological Institute of America. One can get a report from one lab that states a diamond’s grade is G, VS2 then take the same stone to another lab and get a grade of D, VVS2.  

Often the grades given for the same diamond can be light years apart and, for the uninitiated, can lead to confusion about price. Why is it that a 1-carat D, VVS2 is so much more money at one store than another when both stores have reports, all be it from different labs, stating the color and clarity grade to be the same?

Where does this leave the consumer and how should jewelers represent diamonds? Some jewelers choose to use only one lab for all their diamond grading while others use several labs. Some jewelers still rely on selling the sizzle and not the steak and choose not to use diamond grading reports at all. The best line I’ve ever heard concerning reports was in a group of jewelers discussing what labs they use. One of the jewelers who chooses not to use reports said, “I don’t use diamond certificates. The first time someone mentioned ‘certs’ to me, I thought they were talking about breath mints!”  

When a consumer is shopping for a diamond, they need to know and, frankly, have the right to know that the diamond they are purchasing has an independent report of its true grade. When labs offer trumped-up reports stating that a particular stone is of a particular grade and they use

the GIA’s scale for grading, the lab is clearly misleading the public. If a lab wishes to give grades to stones that are not within the strict guidelines of what the world has taken to be factual--in this case, the GIA system--then it should use a totally different system of grading and not confuse the public by using the GIA system of letters and sub-numbers. 

We all know that when the GIA won’t give a stone a particular grade, the stone can be sent to other labs that will bestow upon that diamond the grade that the supplier was hoping to get. Yes, the diamond still might sell for less than one with an equivalent GIA grade but that only adds to the difficulty of the retailer who is in competition with some other store touting the same grade diamond for less money. The consumer buys a diamond with a false grade and the retailer with the GIA diamond loses the sale.

If we are to continue to sell diamonds with grading reports in our industry, the multitude of labs selling these reports should develop their own system of grading so the consumer will not be fooled into purchasing something that it is not.  Honesty has been the hallmark of our industry and is what has kept many jewelers in business for generations. Business done on a handshake is one of the beloved values that we as an industry hold. I can’t think of another business in today’s world where such trust exists. Our very reputations are at stake using lab reports that are somewhat shaded.  The consumer deserves to know what it is that they are buying and should be presented with a lab report that is as honest as your reputation. 

What do you say? Let’s shake on it. 

Michelle Graffis the editor-in-chief at National Jeweler, directing the publication’s coverage both online and in print.

The Latest

Louis Comfort Tiffany Poppy lampshade drawing
Events & AwardsAug 17, 2026
Exhibition on Louis Comfort Tiffany’s Studios to Open at The Met

The exhibition will feature more than 100 drawings of stained-glass lampshades, windows, and more, many created by women and émigrés.

Spinelli Kilcollin Inara Ring
CollectionsAug 17, 2026
Marquise Diamonds Dance in Spinelli Kilcollin’s ‘Wren’ Collection

Marquise-cut diamonds in drop charms are the center of the new collection, reflecting the movement of a dancer in modular styles.

Ft. Lauderdale Jewelry, Antique, & Object Show logo
Events & AwardsAug 17, 2026
There’s a New Jewelry Show Coming to Florida

The inaugural Fort Lauderdale Jewelry, Antique, & Object Show will be held from Jan. 28 through Feb. 1, 2027.

1872-x-1052-July-ad (1).png
Brought to you by
Why More Jewelry Retailers Are Hosting Turnkey Estate Buying Events

Retailers are seeking new ways to attract customers, increase traffic, and create revenue – Estate buying events are a popular solution.

Karl Getschel and Bob Yanega of Smyth Jewelers
IndependentsAug 14, 2026
Smyth Jewelers to Open Fourth Location

The family-owned jeweler will open a new showroom in Bel Air, Maryland, this fall.

Weekly QuizAug 13, 2026
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Stock image of a gavel
CrimeAug 14, 2026
Wife of Man Convicted in Jeweler’s Murder Sentenced for Conspiracy

Amanda Ileana Hernandez is married to Carlos Hernandez, one of two men in prison for the 2024 murder of Michigan jeweler Hussein Murray.

Paul Morelli Wavey Vine Earrings
TrendsAug 14, 2026
Paul Morelli’s Latest ‘Wavey Vine’ Earrings Embrace Color

The reimagined jewel, our Piece of the Week, trades the diamonds in the original 1998 design for blue, pink, yellow, and green sapphires.

Brought-To-By-Article-Top-Image.jpg
Brought to you by
Wedding Band Trends 2026: Personalization Takes Center Stage

Colored gemstones, artisan finishes, mixed metals, and meaningful details are shaping demand in bridal jewelry.

Cover.jpg
Supplier BulletinAug 13, 2026
Your Piece Could Be the One Editors Talk About

Sponsored by American Gem Trade Association

Two Pandora Talisman pendants
FinancialsAug 13, 2026
Pandora’s ‘Talisman’ Collection Shines, Lab-Grown Diamond Sales Fall

In the United States, second-quarter sales were flat amid soft consumer sentiment and lower in-store traffic.

Cuckoo Cuckoo Cadbury Conundrum egg
AuctionsAug 13, 2026
This Gold Cadbury ‘Conundrum’ Egg Set a World Auction Record

The 22-karat gold egg, sold at Batemans Auctioneers in the U.K., was part of a 1980s treasure hunt ad campaign for Cadbury Creme Eggs.

Picture of 2,488 carat rough diamond next to tweezers, a golf ball, and a loupe
SourcingAug 13, 2026
2,488-Carat Diamond, Largest Found in Botswana, Has a New Owner

Lucara Diamond Corp., which recovered the “Motswedi” diamond from the Karowe mine, sold the stone for an undisclosed amount.

John Hardy Heishi Collection Campaign Imagery
CollectionsAug 13, 2026
John Hardy Infuses ‘Icon,’ ‘Heishi’ Collections with Color

The expanded collections now feature hand-cut gemstones like topaz, tanzanite, chrysoprase, chalcedony, smoky quartz, and fire opal.

Jean Dousset Westfield Valley Fair
Lab-GrownAug 13, 2026
Jean Dousset Opens Third Store

The lab-grown diamond jewelry brand’s newest boutique is in Westfield Valley Fair in Santa Clara, California.

Legacy emerald
SourcingAug 12, 2026
Eshed-Gemstar on the Painstaking Process of Cutting ‘The Legacy Emerald’

The gemstone supplier and manufacturer acquired the remarkable 104-gram Zambian emerald at Gemfields’ auction in May.

Surveillance image of jewelry thieves
CrimeAug 12, 2026
Elderly NYC Woman Targeted in Jewelry Swap Scheme

Two suspects offered to trade the woman a “winning” lottery ticket for her jewelry.

The Finsch Diamond Mine in South Africa, owned by Petra Diamonds Ltd.
SourcingAug 12, 2026
Another Diamond Mine Poised to Close

Finsch has been in business rescue since May, and owner Petra Diamonds said it sees no viable path forward for the mine.

Stock image of gavel, handcuffs, and law books
CrimeAug 12, 2026
Jewelry Store Employee Gets 20 Years to Life in Choking Death of Boss

Michel Patrick DeSalles was sentenced after pleading guilty to the 2017 murder of Omid Gholian, who owned a jewelry store in Manhattan.

Beth Miller Frederick Goldman
MajorsAug 12, 2026
Frederick Goldman Names New SVP of Sales

Longtime industry executive Beth Miller has taken on the role.

Verdura unicorn brooch
AuctionsAug 11, 2026
Verdura Unicorn Brooch With Royal Connection Up for Auction

The brooch was owned by Virginia Fortune Ryan Ogilvy, who served as a lady of the bedchamber to Queen Elizabeth II for nearly 50 years.

Jamie Cygielman
MajorsAug 11, 2026
Signet Jewelers Selects Mattel Exec to Lead Zales, Banter

Jamie Cygielman will take on the role on Aug. 24.

Richard Moore
IndependentsAug 11, 2026
Polly’s Fine Jewelry Co-Owner Richard Moore Dies at 69

Moore, Polly’s husband, is remembered as a family man with an easygoing spirit and a love for sports and the outdoors.

National Jeweler columnists Duvall O’Steen and Jen Cullen Williams
ColumnistsAug 11, 2026
Creative Connecting: How to Sell Colored Gemstones to Gen Z

Duvall O’Steen and Jen Cullen Williams share the best ways to display, present, and explain colored gemstones to younger customers.

NAJA logo
Events & AwardsAug 11, 2026
NAJA Announces Lineup For 2026 Fall Virtual Conference

The mid-year conference for jewelry and watch appraisers will take place Sept. 5-6 on Zoom.

Honest Hands Workbench Ring Builder
TechnologyAug 10, 2026
Colorado Jeweler Launches Customization Tool He Built Himself

Honest Hands Ring Co. Founder Benjamin Bosworth shared his thoughts on jewelry technology and why AI can never replace the human element.

QVC Group logo
MajorsAug 10, 2026
QVC Exits Chapter 11 Bankruptcy, Names New Interim CEO

QVC Group President and CEO David Rawlinson is temporarily being replaced by a familiar face, former QVC CEO Mike George.

State Property Lorenz Station Bracelet
CollectionsAug 10, 2026
State Property Puts a Ripple in the ‘The Voyager’ Collection

The brand also added two one-of-a-kind brown diamond pieces to the “Sanssouci” series of its “Gardens” collection.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy