Heidi Gardner, an SNL cast member, wore the smoky quartz earrings on the “SNL50: The Anniversary Special” red carpet on Sunday.
4 Designers I Discovered at Metal + Smith
The hotly debated and anticipated not-a-trade-show trade show hosted some fantastic up-and-coming fine jewelry brands.
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Before it even happened, there was a lot of talk about Metal + Smith.
I heard plenty of comments like “Another tradeshow?”, “It’s only one day?” and “What do they mean they’re not a trade show?”
But I heard equal amounts of excitement from the designers participating, and for their sakes, I hoped the show would be a success.
The jewelry community can be insular, which is great for people with longstanding, loyal business relationships, but for a new kid on the block, it can be daunting to break in.
The event was smartly scheduled at the tail end of shows like Capsule, Coterie and Woman New York, on a Monday when buyers would have already made their most pressing appointments and when a lucky few of us would have had a weekend to relax after New York Fashion Week.
The show took place at the Mercantile Annex 37, a bright, windowed space with tons of natural light.
Upon arrival I was given a handy reference guide with all of the exhibitors’ bios and e-mail addresses to contact them--a small-yet-super-thoughtful detail that is so helpful when sifting through an ever-growing collection of business cards post-show.
Visitors weren’t given badges, I imagine to emphasize the relaxed, non-show vibe Metal + Smith was aiming for; however, I think the designers would have really liked for buyers and press to be more easily identifiable. Several mentioned as much.
The jewelry community can be insular, which is great for people with longstanding, loyal business relationships, but for a new kid on the block, it can be daunting to break in.I was impressed with the caliber of designers exhibiting. I made sure to see TAP by Todd Pownell, Margery Hirschey, Roule & Co., Dana Bronfman, Dawes Design, Kataoka, Selin Kent and Ilana Ariel. The designer behind Ilana Ariel, Ilana Sarna, is National Jeweler’s “One to Watch” this month and a designer I’ve admired for some time, though this was her first trade show experience.
Instead of big booths, designers laid out their wares on clean, uniform white tables that were flanked by tall white chairs so exhibitors could actually sit down, but at the same height as their tables so they could converse with visitors. Waiters milled around with water, champagne and hors d’oeuvres.
Ambiance-wise, the only thing Metal
I also appreciated how Metal + Smith embraced their “not-a-trade-show” shtick as a branding mechanism. A large decal on the wall spelled out “#notatradeshow” and for me, being there in person, the point was clear: Metal + Smith wanted its exhibitors to be comfortable and happy, and they looked like they were.
As an editor, what impressed me the most, aesthetics and comfort aside, was that I got to meet lots of new brands that aren’t on the trade show circuit. I was introduced to designers I’ve never heard of, whether their brands are newly launched or press and marketing simply hasn’t been a focus for them.
There were four designers in particular, whom I’m really excited about but hadn’t heard of prior to the show.
Liz Phillips
Phillips splits her time between Jaipur, where she crafts her jewelry, and the United States; perhaps it’s the Indian influence that lends her such an eye for color and stones. She works with visually rich materials like tiger’s eye and lapis, and has recently ventured into some very impressive enamel work that I would love to see more of.
Tola Jewelry
Shoma Lahiry of San Francisco-based Tola Jewelry was sporting beautiful stacks of her rings at Metal + Smith. Lahiry’s designs are best seen in person; there is a wonderful heft to her chunky gold pieces. Her style is organic and earthy but bold and occasionally accented with tiny gemstones or diamonds. Her pieces relay value without preciousness; they feel utterly timeless.
Chérut
Chérut is a brand that likes its bling. Newly launched, the Tel Aviv-based company is helmed by Shani Erez, who cut her teeth at brands like Chloé (an awfully auspicious start to a résumé). Erez uses stunning fancy-cut diamonds in her angular, linear designs, like half moons, trillions and kite cuts. Chérut combines edginess with femininity and glamour with everyday wear.
Katey Walker
Like her designs, Walker seems somewhat like an ethereal, magical princess. She was sporting an incredible, gemstone-laden headpiece throughout the show and all of her designs echoed the piece’s embrace of unique gemstone combinations. Her table was utterly awash in opals and pearls, and all interestingly set as elaborate ear pieces, chunky necklaces and bold rings. I see a great deal to come from this designer.
With Metal + Smith concluded, I’m curious to hear what designers have taken away from the experience. Were orders placed? Was the exposure adequate? What would they improve about the show?
I imagine Metal + Smith will only get better; their next not-a-trade-show trade show is already scheduled for January 2017 in New York.
The Latest
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The reversal comes less than two months after the Zambian government reinstated the tax in an effort to bring in more money.
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The organization also announced its newly elected officers and directors.
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This year will feature a new MJSA Showcase and partnership with Piazza Italia.
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As anticipated, Anglo took another impairment charge on the diamond miner and marketer, which saw revenue sink 23 percent in 2024.
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Ronald Winston is giving the 2.33-carat “Winston Red” to the Smithsonian, 67 years after his father donated the Hope Diamond.
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Kirit Bhansali, a partner in Smital Gems and chairman of India Jewellery Park, will take on the role of chairman.
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Colored stones are stepping into a jewelry spotlight typically reserved for diamonds—are you ready to sell color?
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Alisha Cornett, Nic Faini, Eric Stevens, and Seth Shipley have joined the organization’s board of directors for a three-year term.
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The company has to pay the Justice Department and FinCEN for violating the Bank Secrecy Act, the U.S.’s main anti-money laundering law.
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Petra Diamonds Ltd. CEO Richard Duffy resigned as the diamond miner reported a 30 percent drop in sales to start its fiscal year.
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Pinterest is a potential gold mine for jewelry brands, Emmanuel Raheb writes, provided they follow these five tips.
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The boutique is the French luxury brand’s first airport store on the West Coast.
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The store’s facade now features the iconic swan logo and campaign images of the “Wicked” star.
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Beginning in April, companies importing diamonds into the United States will have to list the country in which the diamonds were mined.
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Around 30 whimsical Fabergé animal carvings will go up for auction at Sotheby’s Geneva in May.
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Assimon will be leaving at the end of February after nearly five years with De Beers.
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Designs from the brand’s “Oera” collection have been reimagined with modern masculinity in mind.
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The wholesale collection features material from the Rock Creek mine in a variety of colors.
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The “Divinely Guided” collection, created in collaboration with Theresa Caputo, features symbols that celebrate the power of connection.
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Show some love on Valentine’s Day with this 14-karat yellow gold ring that features pavé diamonds.
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The employee confronted the thief, causing the suspect to flee and leave behind the suitcases full of jewelry.
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Namib Desert Diamonds also put its security manager on leave following last month’s robbery that left one employee dead.
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AGTA recently concluded its 2025 GemFair event in Tucson and is already gearing up for next year’s show, set for Feb. 2-6, 2026.
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More than 400 new pieces are featured in the supplier’s latest catalog.
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This curation celebrates love with heart-shaped jewelry of all shapes and sizes.
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The fund is collecting money for jewelry businesses damaged by the wildfires in Los Angeles County.