It’s the Signet-owned banner’s first location in Georgia.
4 Designers I Discovered at Metal + Smith
The hotly debated and anticipated not-a-trade-show trade show hosted some fantastic up-and-coming fine jewelry brands.
![The hotly debated and anticipated not-a-trade-show trade show hosted some fantastic up-and-coming fine jewelry brands, such as Katey Walker. 20160926_Metal-Smith-Blog-KateyWalker1.jpg](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/a68bf1cd5969ce0a3a978d9697d3b509.jpg)
Before it even happened, there was a lot of talk about Metal + Smith.
I heard plenty of comments like “Another tradeshow?”, “It’s only one day?” and “What do they mean they’re not a trade show?”
But I heard equal amounts of excitement from the designers participating, and for their sakes, I hoped the show would be a success.
The jewelry community can be insular, which is great for people with longstanding, loyal business relationships, but for a new kid on the block, it can be daunting to break in.
The event was smartly scheduled at the tail end of shows like Capsule, Coterie and Woman New York, on a Monday when buyers would have already made their most pressing appointments and when a lucky few of us would have had a weekend to relax after New York Fashion Week.
The show took place at the Mercantile Annex 37, a bright, windowed space with tons of natural light.
Upon arrival I was given a handy reference guide with all of the exhibitors’ bios and e-mail addresses to contact them--a small-yet-super-thoughtful detail that is so helpful when sifting through an ever-growing collection of business cards post-show.
Visitors weren’t given badges, I imagine to emphasize the relaxed, non-show vibe Metal + Smith was aiming for; however, I think the designers would have really liked for buyers and press to be more easily identifiable. Several mentioned as much.
The jewelry community can be insular, which is great for people with longstanding, loyal business relationships, but for a new kid on the block, it can be daunting to break in.I was impressed with the caliber of designers exhibiting. I made sure to see TAP by Todd Pownell, Margery Hirschey, Roule & Co., Dana Bronfman, Dawes Design, Kataoka, Selin Kent and Ilana Ariel. The designer behind Ilana Ariel, Ilana Sarna, is National Jeweler’s “One to Watch” this month and a designer I’ve admired for some time, though this was her first trade show experience.
Instead of big booths, designers laid out their wares on clean, uniform white tables that were flanked by tall white chairs so exhibitors could actually sit down, but at the same height as their tables so they could converse with visitors. Waiters milled around with water, champagne and hors d’oeuvres.
Ambiance-wise, the only thing Metal
I also appreciated how Metal + Smith embraced their “not-a-trade-show” shtick as a branding mechanism. A large decal on the wall spelled out “#notatradeshow” and for me, being there in person, the point was clear: Metal + Smith wanted its exhibitors to be comfortable and happy, and they looked like they were.
As an editor, what impressed me the most, aesthetics and comfort aside, was that I got to meet lots of new brands that aren’t on the trade show circuit. I was introduced to designers I’ve never heard of, whether their brands are newly launched or press and marketing simply hasn’t been a focus for them.
There were four designers in particular, whom I’m really excited about but hadn’t heard of prior to the show.
Liz Phillips
Phillips splits her time between Jaipur, where she crafts her jewelry, and the United States; perhaps it’s the Indian influence that lends her such an eye for color and stones. She works with visually rich materials like tiger’s eye and lapis, and has recently ventured into some very impressive enamel work that I would love to see more of.
Tola Jewelry
Shoma Lahiry of San Francisco-based Tola Jewelry was sporting beautiful stacks of her rings at Metal + Smith. Lahiry’s designs are best seen in person; there is a wonderful heft to her chunky gold pieces. Her style is organic and earthy but bold and occasionally accented with tiny gemstones or diamonds. Her pieces relay value without preciousness; they feel utterly timeless.
Chérut
Chérut is a brand that likes its bling. Newly launched, the Tel Aviv-based company is helmed by Shani Erez, who cut her teeth at brands like Chloé (an awfully auspicious start to a résumé). Erez uses stunning fancy-cut diamonds in her angular, linear designs, like half moons, trillions and kite cuts. Chérut combines edginess with femininity and glamour with everyday wear.
Katey Walker
Like her designs, Walker seems somewhat like an ethereal, magical princess. She was sporting an incredible, gemstone-laden headpiece throughout the show and all of her designs echoed the piece’s embrace of unique gemstone combinations. Her table was utterly awash in opals and pearls, and all interestingly set as elaborate ear pieces, chunky necklaces and bold rings. I see a great deal to come from this designer.
With Metal + Smith concluded, I’m curious to hear what designers have taken away from the experience. Were orders placed? Was the exposure adequate? What would they improve about the show?
I imagine Metal + Smith will only get better; their next not-a-trade-show trade show is already scheduled for January 2017 in New York.
The Latest
![These “Double Loop” earrings feature a drop-cut amethyst sitting atop the lower hoop, totaling 1.60 carats between both earrings. The hoops are made of silver covered in “pistacchio” colored enamel, while 9-karat yellow gold holds the stones in place and connect the two hoops behind the earlobe ($1,770). Bea Bongiasca’s Double Loop Earrings](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/f338ef6b4603be3c97765f833b831ca0.jpg)
Commemorate “brat summer” with these green hoops.
Sponsored by Gemological Institute of America
![Untitled design.jpg](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/583fbcb2bb839782810080debef35d3c.jpg)
As the demand for lab-grown diamond jewelry may still be increasing, the most notable change we are likely to see is price stabilization.
![Earlier this month, online giant Amazon and the Better Business Bureau filed a joint federal lawsuit against ReviewServiceUSA.com for allegedly selling fake reviews, both positive and negative. Amazon package outside door](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/27fce4225a38900d54a5536ce523a22d.jpg)
They claim ReviewServiceUSA.com was selling both positive and negative reviews of products and businesses.
![](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/99a46b30cc354962ac2e29ecd113587a.jpg)
![A shot of the Venetia diamond mine in South Africa, owned by De Beers Group. The diamond miner and marketer saw revenue drop 21 percent and rough diamond sales decline 20 percent in a “weak” market for diamonds. De Beers’ Venetia diamond mine](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/a1f16ceaaba662e80385166060d192a7.jpg)
Lab-grown diamond sales in the United States and ongoing economic challenges in China are impacting natural diamond demand.
A longtime member of IJO, she’s remembered for her passion for design, learning, and environmentalism.
![1872 x 1052 Gemolite.jpg](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/9d60901b44425a53b9010301897a3bbc.jpg)
GIA®’s most advanced microscope has new features to optimize greater precision and comfort.
![A malachite and diamond bracelet from Pomellato’s “Pom Pom Dot” collection, launched earlier this year. Pomellato and Boucheron were bright spots for Kering in an otherwise underwhelming first half of the year. Pomellato Malachite Pom Pom Dot bracelet](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/3c237b62e009742fc52487097daf3c5a.jpg)
The gains come amid a tough time for parent company Kering, which saw sales slide 11 percent in the first half of the year.
![Volunteers and Shane Co.’s corporate team from all 22 locations of the family-owned jewelry chain have begun packing backpacks with school supplies for teachers to distribute to their students this school year. Shane Co. and the Kids in Need foundation logo](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/1c5abfb36ec775724f014f47bfbb47fc.jpg)
The fine jewelry retailer filled backpacks with back-to-school essentials for students in 13 states.
![A shot from the advertising campaign for LVMH-owned Bulgari’s “Eden the Garden of Wonders” high jewelry collection. LVMH’s jewelry and watch sales slipped in the first half of the fiscal year. Bulgari high jewelry campaign](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/c24eb75ca8cea44d2e9859648f4a98ee.jpg)
Tiffany & Co. is focusing on its “iconic” collections while the company has made changes at the top at TAG Heuer and Hublot.
![Chaumet, a Parisian jeweler owned by LVMH, has designed the Olympic and Paralympic Games medals. Chaumet Paris 2024 Olympics medals](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/7831b3a738baddfc7d783e6df0fbf796.jpg)
The Parisian brand is the first jewelry company in the history of the Olympic and Paralympic Games to design the medals.
![The acquisition of Union Life & Casualty by Jewelers Mutual will help strengthen both the pawn market and the insurance industry, said JM. Jewelers Mutual and Union Life and Casualty logos](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/195925667226ecfc51b4e1bb09607143.jpg)
Union Life & Casualty will join JM Insurance Agency Partners, expanding the provider’s pawnbroker coverage.
![The winner of this year’s Lonia Tate scholarship, Bradlei Smith will receive the opportunity to earn her Graduate Gemologist diploma from GIA and, following graduation, an internship at Ben Bridge Jeweler in Seattle. Bradlei Smith](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/996834935ae30a7a1195db8b9db6cb7d.jpg)
Los Angeles-based Bradlei Smith was selected for this year’s award.
![Peter Smith is an industry consultant, speaker, sales trainer, and author. He can be reached via email at TheRetailSmiths@gmail.com. National Jeweler columnist Peter Smith](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/bec7295a7f478778b1c196e6d81e7cd9.jpg)
In his latest column, Smith shares multiple reasons why people who look at the glass as being hall full often make better salespeople.
![De Beers Group mined 6.4 million carats of diamonds in the second quarter of 2024, down from 7.6 million in the same period last year. (©De Beers Group/Photo credit: Ben Perry @ Armoury Films) De Beers rough diamond display](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/80cd02b1c8384f4b2efda0bcdf6a75e1.jpg)
The company also reported the $150 million sale of an iron ore royalty right, part of its ongoing effort to divest “non-core” assets.
![In honor of its summer bridal event, Long’s Jewelers is partnering with Wequassett Resort and Golf Club on Cape Cod in Massachusetts, and jewelry brand JB Star on a vacation giveaway. Long’s Jewelers giveaway promo](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/4e7a90944c4e8875a4f3818dbe26b28b.jpg)
The giveaway is part of the New England jeweler’s summer bridal event.
![L.A.-based flower designer, Sophia Moreno-Bunge models Guzema’s “Hidden Beauty” collection in front of a garden in Rustic Canyon in Santa Monica, California. Sophia Moreno-Bunge of Isa Isa modeling Guzema’s Hidden Beauty collection](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/6f3822623eb7fd2f6468f82825194cb1.jpg)
The ad features three celebrity florists creating floral sculptures while wearing jewelry by Guzema.
![The Entrepreneurship Grants program supports winners with financial aid to scale their businesses and increase their societal impact, said Diamonds Do Good. Pictured here are three of the 13 winners, top right is Tresia Shituula, and bottom row left to right, are Monkgogi Moshaga and Mohamed Samu. Tresia Shituula, Monkgogi Moshaga, Mohamed Samu](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/a7c9b87301b76a9446f6522747ce5b95.jpg)
The grant provided a total of $100,000 to support 13 entrepreneurs from diamond communities in Africa and India.
![Ghazi Osta, better known as Gus, was the owner and president of Volusia Gold & Diamond, a store he and his wife, Leigh Osta, opened in 1986. He was shot and killed inside the store Friday afternoon after a brief argument with a regular customer. (Photo courtesy of Volusia Gold & Diamond Facebook page) Ghazi “Gus” Michel Osta](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/c8c1fa3df746cbd364915a98dcac9d21.jpg)
Ghazi Michel Osta, or “Gus,” was killed Friday by an 83-year-old man said to be a frequent customer at his store, Volusia Gold & Diamond.
![Elyssa Jenkins-Pérez (left) is the Responsible Jewellery Council’s new head of North American development, and Effie Marinos is its new specialist advisor for technical standards. Elyssa Jenkins-Perez and Effie Marinos](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/94332af0c7a776e7a8c36fabf76baa5f.jpg)
The organization also announced Effie Marinos as its new specialist advisor for technical standards, as well as four other appointments.
![Karen Rentmeesters, who joined the Antwerp World Diamond Centre in 2010, will take on the role of CEO. Karen Rentmeesters](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/3256fcc71cd43a399055c61f68486269.jpg)
Rentmeesters has served as interim CEO since April following former CEO Ari Epstein’s resignation.
![Longtime Washington, D.C., jeweler Brian Mann (right) with his wife Jessie Mann, an artist who custom-paints porcelain Limoges Boxes, at a 2016 Jewelers of America member event. Mann, the longtime co-owner of David Mann Jewelers, died June 21 at age 70. Brian and Jessie Mann](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/be4debc6e0b3198943a66ef0e2197c2c.jpg)
Mann, whose family’s jewelry store was located inside the Pentagon, is remembered for being a thoughtful champion of the industry.
![The 1916 Company recently opened a new Tudor boutique in Denver’s Cherry Creek Shopping Center. Tudor store in Denver](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/9f8600ea53ed731963331ebd28a10d16.jpg)
The 500-square-foot boutique is located in Denver’s Cherry Creek Shopping Center.
![This necklace from Messika’s “So Move Max” set is made of yellow gold with 19.18-carats of brilliant-cut diamonds and designed with circle motifs that move within the links (price upon request). Messika’s So Move Max Necklace](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/14c78af4a4e8c6b996a81bbb5a5bc69f.jpg)
Dance all night long with the “So Move Max” set’s necklace.
![On Sept. 1, Julien Tornare (left), current CEO of TAG Heuer, will become CEO of Hublot. Antoine Pin, now the general manager of Bulgari’s watch business, will take over Tornare’s role as CEO of TAG Heuer. (Images courtesy of LinkedIn) Julien Tornare and Antoine Pin](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/b24627b34ece895ddd254bae22751fb8.jpg)
Luxury giant LVMH is reshuffling the leadership in its watches division.
![A rendering of a billboard from Etsy’s new campaign. The campaign is designed to highlight the platform’s creators and how their products are made. Etsy billboard rendering in NYC](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/9a94f394f326b90dc1c9da6a711c5e09.jpg)
Sellers and shoppers have spoken out against a rise in mass-produced merchandise on the platform meant to highlight handmade goods.