Editors

4 Designers I Discovered at Metal + Smith

EditorsSep 27, 2016

4 Designers I Discovered at Metal + Smith

The hotly debated and anticipated not-a-trade-show trade show hosted some fantastic up-and-coming fine jewelry brands.

20160926_Metal-Smith-Blog-KateyWalker1.jpg
The hotly debated and anticipated not-a-trade-show trade show hosted some fantastic up-and-coming fine jewelry brands, such as Katey Walker.

Before it even happened, there was a lot of talk about Metal + Smith.

I heard plenty of comments like “Another tradeshow?”, “It’s only one day?” and “What do they mean they’re not a trade show?”

But I heard equal amounts of excitement from the designers participating, and for their sakes, I hoped the show would be a success.

The jewelry community can be insular, which is great for people with longstanding, loyal business relationships, but for a new kid on the block, it can be daunting to break in.

The event was smartly scheduled at the tail end of shows like Capsule, Coterie and Woman New York, on a Monday when buyers would have already made their most pressing appointments and when a lucky few of us would have had a weekend to relax after New York Fashion Week.


In the background, Metal + Smith’s #NotaTradeShow slogan is partially visible.

The show took place at the Mercantile Annex 37, a bright, windowed space with tons of natural light.

Upon arrival I was given a handy reference guide with all of the exhibitors’ bios and e-mail addresses to contact them--a small-yet-super-thoughtful detail that is so helpful when sifting through an ever-growing collection of business cards post-show.

Visitors weren’t given badges, I imagine to emphasize the relaxed, non-show vibe Metal + Smith was aiming for; however, I think the designers would have really liked for buyers and press to be more easily identifiable. Several mentioned as much.
The jewelry community can be insular, which is great for people with longstanding, loyal business relationships, but for a new kid on the block, it can be daunting to break in.
I was impressed with the caliber of designers exhibiting. I made sure to see TAP by Todd Pownell, Margery Hirschey, Roule & Co., Dana Bronfman, Dawes Design, Kataoka, Selin Kent and Ilana Ariel. The designer behind Ilana Ariel, Ilana Sarna, is National Jeweler’s “One to Watch” this month and a designer I’ve admired for some time, though this was her first trade show experience.

Instead of big booths, designers laid out their wares on clean, uniform white tables that were flanked by tall white chairs so exhibitors could actually sit down, but at the same height as their tables so they could converse with visitors. Waiters milled around with water, champagne and hors d’oeuvres.

Ambiance-wise, the only thing Metal
+ Smith was missing was music, as one designer lamented to me (a thought for next time).

I also appreciated how Metal + Smith embraced their “not-a-trade-show” shtick as a branding mechanism. A large decal on the wall spelled out “#notatradeshow” and for me, being there in person, the point was clear: Metal + Smith wanted its exhibitors to be comfortable and happy, and they looked like they were.

As an editor, what impressed me the most, aesthetics and comfort aside, was that I got to meet lots of new brands that aren’t on the trade show circuit. I was introduced to designers I’ve never heard of, whether their brands are newly launched or press and marketing simply hasn’t been a focus for them.

There were four designers in particular, whom I’m really excited about but hadn’t heard of prior to the show.



Liz Phillips 
Phillips splits her time between Jaipur, where she crafts her jewelry, and the United States; perhaps it’s the Indian influence that lends her such an eye for color and stones. She works with visually rich materials like tiger’s eye and lapis, and has recently ventured into some very impressive enamel work that I would love to see more of.



Tola Jewelry 
Shoma Lahiry of San Francisco-based Tola Jewelry was sporting beautiful stacks of her rings at Metal + Smith. Lahiry’s designs are best seen in person; there is a wonderful heft to her chunky gold pieces. Her style is organic and earthy but bold and occasionally accented with tiny gemstones or diamonds. Her pieces relay value without preciousness; they feel utterly timeless.



Chérut 
Chérut is a brand that likes its bling. Newly launched, the Tel Aviv-based company is helmed by Shani Erez, who cut her teeth at brands like Chloé (an awfully auspicious start to a résumé). Erez uses stunning fancy-cut diamonds in her angular, linear designs, like half moons, trillions and kite cuts. Chérut combines edginess with femininity and glamour with everyday wear.



Katey Walker 
Like her designs, Walker seems somewhat like an ethereal, magical princess. She was sporting an incredible, gemstone-laden headpiece throughout the show and all of her designs echoed the piece’s embrace of unique gemstone combinations. Her table was utterly awash in opals and pearls, and all interestingly set as elaborate ear pieces, chunky necklaces and bold rings. I see a great deal to come from this designer.

With Metal + Smith concluded, I’m curious to hear what designers have taken away from the experience. Were orders placed? Was the exposure adequate? What would they improve about the show?

I imagine Metal + Smith will only get better; their next not-a-trade-show trade show is already scheduled for January 2017 in New York.
Ashley Davisis the senior editor, fashion at National Jeweler, covering all things related to design, style and trends.

The Latest

Susan Jacques
GradingJan 14, 2025
GIA CEO, President Susan Jacques to Retire at the End of 2025

The grading lab said the search for her successor is underway.

Jewelry designer and National Jeweler guest columnist Jules Kim
ColumnistsJan 14, 2025
Jules Kim: Building Bridges Between Creators and Industry

In this special op-ed, designer Jules Kim calls on big brands to collaborate with independent creators instead of copying their designs.

Emily P Wheeler purple heart earrings
Policies & IssuesJan 14, 2025
These Designers and Retailers Are Raising Money for LA Wildfire Relief

Several jewelry designers are lending a helping hand to charities in Los Angeles amid the raging wildfires.

Resolutions - 2025.jpg
Brought to you by
3 New Year’s Resolutions for Jewelry Lovers

The new year feels like a clean slate, inspiring reflection, hope, and the motivation to become better versions of ourselves.

Henry A. Hänni
GradingJan 14, 2025
Former SSEF Director Henry A. Hänni Dies

A pioneering figure in gemology, he is remembered for his spirit of generosity, curiosity, and joy.

Weekly QuizJan 09, 2025
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Woman wearing rings on both hands
FinancialsJan 14, 2025
Signet Jewelers Lowers Q4 Guidance After Holiday Sales Fall Short

The peak selling days leading up to Christmas did not meet the jewelry retailer’s expectations.

Edouard Schneider
MajorsJan 14, 2025
Edouard Schneider Joins Messika as Chief Brand Officer

Schneider brings over 20 years of luxury and fashion industry experience to his role as a key member of the brand’s global leadership team.

ride_or_die_1872x1052.png
Brought to you by
A Diamond Is Forever Celebrates "Forever Present" Holiday Campaign

A Diamond is Forever hosted a holiday celebration in honor of their new marketing campaign, ‘Forever Present.’

Gemfields emeralds
SourcingJan 13, 2025
Zambia Reinstates 15% Export Duty on Precious Gemstones, Shocking Gemfields

Gemfields said the Zambian government revoked the 2019 suspension of the tax with no warning.

Woman’s silhouette with smart ring on finger
TechnologyJan 13, 2025
Ultrahuman Unveils Luxury Smart Ring

With versions in 18-karat gold and platinum, the wearables company is blending health technology and fine jewelry.

Brandee Dallow
Policies & IssuesJan 13, 2025
Brandee Dallow Elected President of Ethical Metalsmiths

The executive brings more than two decades of industry experience to the role.

Camille Zarsky and curated necklaces
IndependentsJan 13, 2025
The Seven Pops Up in Palm Beach

The New York City-based retailer is bringing its curation of jewels to a pop-up shop at Love Binetti in Palm Beach, Florida.

Jewelers Relief Fund logo
Policies & IssuesJan 10, 2025
Jewelers Relief Fund Reopened to Aid Victims of LA Fires

Created by JA and DCA, the fund is collecting money for jewelry businesses damaged by the wildfires in Los Angeles County.

Elsa Jin Mozi Brooch
TrendsJan 10, 2025
Piece of the Week: Elsa Jin’s ‘Mozi’ Brooch

Adrien Brody received his first Golden Globe while wearing the “Mozi” brooch, which depicts a spill of traditional Chinese calligraphy ink.

Paul Rowley, Sandrine Conseiller, Vipul Shah, and Kirit Bhansali
SourcingJan 10, 2025
De Beers, GJEPC Partner to Promote Natural Diamonds

The pair will work together to support independent retailers in India with marketing assets, training materials, and other tools.

Counterfeit Tiffany & Co. jewelry near U.S. Customs and Border Protection logo
CrimeJan 09, 2025
US Customs Seizes Counterfeit Tiffany & Co. Jewels

Officers in Champlain, New York valued the jewels, if genuine, at nearly $30,000.

Karma El Khalil Meteor Necklace
CollectionsJan 09, 2025
Karma El Khalil’s New Collection is an Ode to the Moon

The “Moonlight Rhapsody” collection is overflowing with gemstones, from raw opal to morganite and spessartite.

AGTA Seminar Series
Events & AwardsJan 09, 2025
Here Is the 2025 AGTA GemFair Tucson Educational Lineup

The seminar series covers topics from market trends and colored stone terminology to working with museums and growing an Instagram profile.

Diamond Trails Reena Ahluwalia
SourcingJan 09, 2025
Reena Ahluwalia Unveils New Works in ‘Diamond Trails’ Anthology

The artist collaborated with industry creatives on the project, which features five fictional stories and five corresponding paintings.

Virginia Jewelers at the Children’s Hospital Foundation Ball
IndependentsJan 09, 2025
Virginia Jewelers Raise Nearly $26K for Children’s Hospital at Charity Ball

Nine jewelers donated jewels for a raffle to support the Children’s Hospital Foundation at Virginia Commonwealth University.

Miss Piggy taking a selfie
WatchesJan 08, 2025
Oris Debuts Hot Pink Miss Piggy Watch

Miss Piggy shared her thoughts on being fabulous, the importance of accessories, and how to be your own cheerleader.

Rings in the Promise by Effy lab-grown diamond jewelry collection
Lab-GrownJan 08, 2025
Effy Introduces Brand Dedicated to Lab-Grown Diamonds

“Promise by Effy” includes fashion jewelry and engagement rings.

Haltom’s Jewelers closing ad
IndependentsJan 08, 2025
Haltom’s Jewelers to Close After 130 Years

The Texas-based jeweler is closing all three locations.

Zendaya and Engagement Ring at 2025 Golden Globes
TrendsJan 08, 2025
Zendaya’s Engagement Ring Combines Vintage and Modern Elements

Zendaya’s ring, featuring an east-west set elongated cushion-cut diamond, is said to be from British designer Jessica McCormack.

National Jeweler columnist Emmanuel Raheb
ColumnistsJan 07, 2025
The Smart Lab: The Hottest Digital Marketing Trends For 2025

Micro-influencers, customer reviews, and shoppable videos are going to be key to getting customers’ attention, Emmanuel Raheb writes.

Lindsey Scoggins Studio Gypsy Link Ring
TrendsJan 07, 2025
Amanda’s Style File: January Is for Garnet

Garnet is comprised of a group of minerals, giving those with a birthday in January options when it comes to their birthstone.

Huan Tain and staff of Quest Fine Jewelers in Fairfax, Virginia
IndependentsJan 07, 2025
Edge Retail Academy Names 2024 ‘Wag’ Award Winner

The annual award, created in memory of business coach William “Wag” Wagner, went to a retailer in Fairfax, Virginia.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy