Editors

3 Pieces with Solange Azagury-Partridge

EditorsJul 21, 2016

3 Pieces with Solange Azagury-Partridge

In our new monthly feature, Associate Editor Ashley Davis converses with jewelry designers about three of their creations that are particularly meaningful. This month features British legend Solange Azagury-Partridge.

20160721_3-Pieces-Solange-HEADER.jpg
In “3 Pieces,” Associate Editor Ashley Davis converses with jewelry designers about a trio of their creations that are particularly meaningful. This month features British legend Solange Azagury-Partridge.

When it comes to British jewelry, if the three S’s reign supreme (that would be Solange, Stephen and Shaun) then Solange Azagury-Partridge is naturally the queen.

Unlike the quiet force that was the focus of last month’s 3 Pieces column, Wendy Yue, Azagury-Partridge is one of the jewelry industry’s most recognizable and lauded talents.

Her resume comes close to ideal: The London-based designer has an oft-copied signature (her Lips ring), once served as the creative director of Boucheron, and even has pieces in the permanent collection of the Victoria and Albert Museum.

Azagury-Partridge is the caliber of designer that others look to for inspiration.

With a design history as illustrious as hers, I couldn’t help but wonder: If asked to choose, which three pieces would the artist wish to discuss?

Below, Azagury-Patridge’s illuminates us with her choices, which happen to be pieces she personally loves to wear.


Solange Azagury-Partridge’s 18-karat yellow gold ring with natural octahedron-shaped diamond

Solange Azagury-Partridge: This is my engagement ring. I designed this, it must be, gosh, 30 years ago.

It’s 18-karat gold and a natural octahedral diamond. I sourced the diamond through a friend of mine who was a diamond dealer.

My original engagement ring was a rough diamond in a silver bombe because we couldn’t afford gold, but then it was stolen. So I was able to upgrade to a gold one.

I don’t wear it every day, I wear it occasionally, not often, but I still love it.

At the time, I was working for an antique vintage jewelry dealer and the pieces that I loved were kind of that shape, that gold bombe shape. I suppose I felt a bit young for a twinkly diamond and I wanted something that felt contemporary and useful and durable and wearable, and that’s what I came up with really, and it was the juxtaposition between the smooth dome of gold and the spiky diamond that I liked.

I liked the subtlety of the diamond. I liked that it was a natural, very straight-line shape. I thought it was amazing that you could find that in nature. It was so subtle that people didn’t really know what it was. I kept having to tell people, so it was nice; it was sort of like a little secret.
“Color is what I love.”
I started my own line, I suppose, about five years later. Actually it was kind
of a continual process. I kept adding pieces to (my line) and selling them, and then eventually I set up a business about three or four years later.

I did make a few of those rings for other people and I did some matching earrings. When I started designing it was all about the uncut stone. All my jewelry was made with uncut rough gems.


Solange Azagury-Partridge’s rhodium-plated 18-karat white gold Chlorophyll necklace with emeralds, lacquer and diamonds.

SAP: This one is from 2012 or 2013. You have blackened 18-karat white gold and you’ve got emeralds and you have lacquer and some diamonds.

Green is the color of nature and chlorophyll is the green of nature, the natural composition of the green. I suppose it was the natural world that was my inspiration for this.

I love emeralds so much and the color green but I never wear necklaces. I don’t really like necklaces and I feel slightly choked by them. This is the first necklace I’ve ever worn that I want to wear all the time, so I think it’s quite significant on that level.

This piece is meant to be mine. I made a ruby version which is the autumn, the colorblind version of chlorophyll. Color is what I love.

There’s always a challenge in creating a piece. I suppose the reason I enjoy wearing it so much is that it’s so comfortable and fits very well, and that’s always a challenge to achieve.

Getting all of the little buds carved, making it hang properly, it’s all a bit of a nightmare.

Eventually we manage it, that’s part of the process we go through.
“This is the first necklace I’ve ever worn that I want to wear all the time.”
My collections normally take about nine to 10 months from inception to final production. That’s how long this necklace took.


Solange Azagury-Partridge’s rhodium-plated 18-karat white gold Moon and Stars ring with white diamonds

SAP: That’s the Moon and Stars ring. It’s 18-karat white gold. This was for my last collection, last year, my “Everything” collection.

It has moving parts, which a lot of my jewelry does. It’s a spinning ring, which is one of my “things” I suppose.

The idea is that the central diamond is a moon and the stars spin around it. These are diamonds cut into a star shape, so we had to get the diamonds specially cut into that shape and they’re orbiting the moon.

I love rose cuts actually, like the center stone. I like their subtle light and they have a softness to them. I like the way that the weight of them is in the surface rather than in the depth.
“There’s always a challenge in creating a piece … it’s all a bit of a nightmare.”
It’s down to the jeweler really to work out the mechanism. If they’re very problematic, we can sit around the table for days and hours talking about how we’re going to work it out, how to make it.

The moon and the stars are just things one dreams about and looks up into the sky and they’re just a wonderful part of nature. Again it’s the natural world, the celestial bodies that are kind of dream-worthy. It’s like the stars around your orbit.

It’s special I suppose because it’s an updated version of my spinner ring. It’s another piece that I want to wear a lot. There are some pieces that I just love and have to have and this is one of them.
Ashley Davisis the senior editor, fashion at National Jeweler, covering all things related to design, style and trends.

The Latest

2025 National Jeweler Retailer Hall of Fame inductees
Events & AwardsJun 06, 2025
Here Are the 2025 Retailer Hall of Fame Inductees

This year’s honorees include a Midwest retailer and two multi-store independents, one in New York and the other in New England.

Harwell Godfrey Granny Square Eleanor Necklace
CollectionsJun 06, 2025
Piece of the Week: Harwell Godfrey’s ‘Granny Squares Eleanor’ Necklace

As an homage to iconic crochet blankets, the necklace features the nostalgic motif through a kaleidoscope of cabochon-cut stones.

 Laura Gallon Joaillerie “Dynasty” ring, Bijules “Compass” bolo tie, Löf “The Orbitalis” ring
Events & AwardsJun 05, 2025
The 12 Fresh Faces in Couture’s Design Atelier

Discover the dozen up-and-coming brands exhibiting in the Design Atelier for the first time.

DCA-student-cert-NJ1872x1052-2.png
Brought to you by
The True Power Behind the Counter: Why Sales Associates Are the Heart of the Jewelry Business

When investing in your jewelry business, it's important not to overlook the most crucial element of success: the sales associates.

Jack Abraham The Royal Ruby Collection
SourcingJun 05, 2025
A Rare Suite of Rubies Has Arrived in Las Vegas

The “Royal Ruby” Collection is a quintet of untreated rubies curated by collector Jack Abraham.

Weekly QuizJun 05, 2025
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Daymond John
Events & AwardsJun 05, 2025
Daymond John to Give Keynote at JCK Las Vegas

The entrepreneur and “Shark Tank” star will share his top tips for success.

Vaishali Banerjee and Pallavi Sharma
MajorsJun 05, 2025
Platinum Guild International Updates Leadership Team

Two existing executives have been given new roles.

Article Image 1.png
Brought to you by
Clienteling Isn’t a Buzzword. It’s an Essential Business Model.

More shoppers are walking out without buying. Here’s how smart jewelers can bring them back—and the tool they need to do it right.

Meredith Tiderington
Events & AwardsJun 05, 2025
Zillion Announces 'Women in STEM' Scholarship Recipient

Meredith Tiderington, an electrical engineering student, was selected for the award.

The Gemological Institute of America’s logo
Lab-GrownJun 04, 2025
GIA Reverting to More General Terminology for Lab-Grown Diamonds

It will quit assigning the stones specific color and clarity grades in favor of applying “new descriptive terminology.”

Exterior of the Venetian and the Las Vegas Sphere
Events & AwardsJun 04, 2025
As JCK Talks Returns, Don’t Miss These 12 Sessions

From design trends to sustainability, here’s a roundup of can’t-miss education sessions at JCK Las Vegas.

JCK show
CrimeJun 04, 2025
10 Safety Tips for the Las Vegas Shows

The Jewelers’ Security Alliance offers advice for those attending the annual trade shows.

Amy Curran
MajorsJun 04, 2025
Amy Curran Promoted at Hill & Co.

Her new role is director of strategic initiatives.

The eight rings in Viviana Langhoff’s AU79 jewelry collection
CollectionsJun 03, 2025
In Her Latest Collection, Viviana Langhoff Is Leaning Into Gold

The designer is embracing bold pieces with weight to them in “AU79,” a collection she celebrated with a creative launch party.

Gold and diamond bangles on a pair of jeans
FinancialsJun 03, 2025
Signet Jewelers Sees Turnaround in Q1 With Sales Ticking Up 2%

On an earnings call, CEO J.K. Symancyk discussed what’s working for the company and how it’s preparing for the potential impact of tariffs.

Woman’s hand holding shopping bags
SurveysJun 03, 2025
Consumer Confidence Improves in May

The index partially rebounded after months of decline, due in part to the U.S.-China deal to temporarily reduce import tariffs.

Dakota Johnson as Roberto Coin Brand Ambassador
CollectionsJun 03, 2025
Dakota Johnson Is Roberto Coin’s New Brand Ambassador

The actress stars in the latest campaign set in Venice, Italy, and is set to participate in other creative initiatives for the jeweler.

Mason Kay Jade necklace
GradingJun 03, 2025
Mason-Kay Jade Adds ‘Fei Cui’ to Jade Reports

The company has joined other labs, including GIA and Lotus Gemology, in adopting the Chinese term for "jadeite jade."

Gemfields ruby
SourcingJun 02, 2025
Gemfields’ June Auction to Include 36-Carat Ruby

The large stone will be offered at its June sale along with a selection of secondary-type rubies from a new area of the Montepuez mine.

Adobe Stock image of skyline of Bangkok, Thailand
GradingJun 02, 2025
GSI Opens New Lab in Thailand

Located in Bangkok, the laboratory is Gemological Science International’s 14th location worldwide.

Seaman Schepps pearl earrings
TrendsJun 02, 2025
Amanda’s Style File: Three Gems for June

Those born in June have a myriad of options for their birthstone jewelry.

David Allouche
SourcingJun 02, 2025
David Allouche Joins Grandview Klein Diamonds

The diamond industry veteran has been named its senior sales executive.

Movado Connect 2.0 watches
FinancialsMay 30, 2025
Movado’s Q1 Sales Slip Amid ‘Challenging’ Retail Environment

The company plans to raise the prices of select watches to offset the impact of tariffs.

Zoë Chicco Bracelets
Policies & IssuesMay 30, 2025
Tariffs & Designers: Navigating Pricing in an Unstable Environment

Between tariffs and the sky-high cost of gold, designers enter this year’s Las Vegas shows with a lot of questions and few answers.

Renato Cipullo Hematite Blaze Necklace
CollectionsMay 30, 2025
Piece of the Week: Renato Cipullo’s ‘Hematite Blaze’ Necklace

Designed by founder Renato and his daughter Serena Cipullo, it showcases a flame motif representing unity and the power of gathering.

Stock image of shipping containers
Policies & IssuesMay 30, 2025
Trade Court Declares Trump’s Tariffs Invalid

However, the tariffs remain in effect in the short term, as an appeals court has stayed the U.S. Court of International Trade’s decision.

Britney Spears
CollectionsMay 29, 2025
Britney Spears Files Trademark for New Jewelry Line

The pop icon is one step closer to launching her “B Tiny” jewelry collection, a collection she first began posting about last fall.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy