Associate Editor Ashley Davis takes us through her favorite emerald finds from the Las Vegas show. Pictured here is Nikos Koulis’ one-of-a-kind 18-karat white gold necklace with white diamonds, emeralds and black enamel.
I was looking forward to seeing several designers at the Couture show in Las Vegas earlier this month. It was the perfect opportunity to scout which fine jewelry trends are gaining traction, which are peaking and which are just beginning to coalesce.
To say emeralds are a trend would be a bit like saying gold is a trend, or rings are a trend. The gemstone is a fine jewelry staple, and doesn’t go in or out of style any more than a diamond does.
Nonetheless, I pay special attention to emeralds because they happen to be my favorite gemstone (followed by tanzanite then star rubies, in case anyone is wondering.)
Below, I’ve rounded up the most exquisite emeralds I saw at the Couture show, not because they’re a trend, but because it’s always a good idea to look at emeralds.
They’re like shoes; you should just wear them.
Nikos Koulis’ one-of-a-kind 18-karat white gold necklace with white diamonds, emeralds and black enamel, price available upon request NikosKoulis.gr The greatest emerald piece I saw in Las Vegas is undoubtedly Nikos Koulis’ one-of-a-kind collar. Nikos shares my passion for emeralds. I loved what he told me in Las Vegas, “Because there are so many inclusions, [emeralds] cannot be perfect. I like to find the beauty in imperfections, and some of these imperfections are giving the color and the intensity to the stone.”
I couldn’t have said it better. The Greek powerhouse is displaying all of his brilliance in this piece: his Art Deco inspiration, his stunning use of enamel and his intuition for color.
Yannis Sergakis’ 18-karat yellow gold pendant with emerald, blue diamonds and green diamonds, $2,520 YannisSergakis.com
Yannis Sergakis brought new gemstone slice pendants to Las Vegas, including this emerald version. The cut almost gives the stone the feel of a rough gem, as it reveals so much of its natural striations. The bezel-set blue and green diamond halo is playful and unexpected.
Coomi’s 18-karat white gold ring with emerald and white diamonds, $320,000Coomi.com Coomi’s Villa at the Wynn felt a little bit like stepping into a museum but better, because you were encouraged to touch the art. Coomi is a master of gemstones; she understands exactly how to enhance each variety’s brilliance. She and I agree on the best way to set an emerald: in white gold with white diamonds. It might not be a revolutionary combination, but it is certainly the most breathtaking.
am slightly pained when I look at this Coomi ring, as it reminds me of another cushion-cut emerald ring that I found at the Las Vegas antique show or, as I like to refer to it, the one that got away.
Jane Taylor’s one-of-a-kind 18-karat yellow gold earrings with emeralds, blue sapphire, yellow diamonds, aquamarine and champagne diamonds, $132,000JaneTaylor.com Jane Taylor is a goddess of color. The above earrings are a testament to the success of her unique color pairings. I love how Jane mixes these cool-tone gemstones with pops of warm yellow diamonds and yellow gold. I’m always impressed by the quality of the stones with which she works.
Savannah Stranger’s rhodium-plated 18-karat white gold necklace with Gemfields emerald and pearl, price available upon request SavannahStranger.com
I was delighted to see this Gemfields emerald Savannah-fied at Savannah Stranger. There, among all her lovely Tahitian pearls and moody diamonds surrounded by rhodium, was this emerald necklace set in her signature halo. Just as Savannah likes her pearls on the imperfect side, she also chose a very interesting cut of emerald for this necklace.
Armaggan’s 18-karat yellow gold and silver ring with emerald and white diamonds, price available upon requestArmaggan.com
Armaggan was a first-time Couture participant this year. The Turkish design brand shows a real knack for displaying large stones, like this 12-carat emerald from their Heritage collection, which sits in its setting like a throne. Armaggan is one to watch, as the company also designs leather goods, home décor and objets d’art.
Jacquie Aiche’s 14-karat rose gold necklace with antique emeralds and pavé diamonds, $45,000 JacquieAiche.com Jacquie Aiche is a major stone collector and probably has one of the best troves of gems out there, which is saying a lot in the jewelry industry. The pear-shaped emeralds in this necklace are all antiques. The combination of emerald and rose gold feels fresh and unexpected, a beautiful pairing of old and new.
Tomasz Donocik’s palladium earrings with emeralds, price available upon request Facebook.com/Tomasz.Donocik I was particularly excited to see this emerald ring that Tomasz Donocik brought to the show this year. It turned out that the ring was a custom piece a gentleman had commissioned for his wife. He let Tomasz have free reign with the design and was kind enough to lend the ring back to him so he could have it on display at Couture.
I was equally enamored with these emerald-accented earrings, which remind me of chandeliers.
Jemma Wynne’s 18-karat yellow gold earrings with emeralds, $56,700 JemmaWynne.com You can’t mention emeralds without mentioning Jemma Wynne. Emeralds are one of the design duo’s favorite materials with which to work. Here, an abundance of emeralds set on their signature snake chain. Snake chain, love knot, tons of emeralds; what’s not to love?
Michelle Fantaci’s 14-karat yellow gold earrings with emeralds and white diamonds, price available upon request MichelleFantaci.com I adore a good pear-shaped stone and I love how these pear emeralds punctuate the sleek lines of Michelle Fantaci’s earrings. I’m a big fan of the New York-based designer. She strikes just the right balance between sweet and sophisticated, though these earrings clearly fall on her more glamorous side.
Qeelin’s 18-karat rose gold necklace with emeralds and white diamonds, price available upon request Qeelin.com Qeelin is the Chinese powerhouse brand that loves to add a playful touch to classic Chinese symbols. Creative Director Dennis Chan has fun with jewelry; his favorite design is Bobo, the panda bear pendant with interchangeable outfits.
This necklace is part of Qeelin’s Couture collection.
Sylva & Cie’s 18-karat yellow gold and oxidized sterling silver earrings with emeralds and reclaimed diamonds, $46,625 SylvaCie.com Sylva Yepremian of Sylva & Cie lends her pieces an old-world quality, which is no doubt due in part to her family’s rich jewelry background. I enjoy her intricately detailed settings most when adorning a bright stone like these stunning pear-shaped emeralds.
Ashley Davisis the senior editor, fashion at National Jeweler, covering all things related to design, style and trends.
