TechnologyMay 01, 2026
Gemist, Saban Onyx Partner on Retailer-Focused Customization OfferingTheir partnership combines Gemist’s customization technology with Saban Onyx’s U.S.-based manufacturing capabilities.
EditorsApr 18, 2016
A Hands-on Lesson in Telling Gemstones Apart
Senior Editor Brecken Branstrator recounts what she learned at an AGS Conclave education session on identifying gemstones presented by Gem-A.
The American Gem Society knocks it out of the park every year for their Conclave event. The keynote speakers are top-notch, and the education sessions cover a wide variety of topics presented by experts in the industry.
Held in Washington, D.C. this year, Conclave again was full of great sessions, from a panel on bridal trends, to updates on diamond prices and grading reports, to a fascinating session on diamonds and their healing powers.
A particularly cool one that I got to attend was held Friday by The Gemmological Association of Great Britain (Gem-A).
In “Separating Similar-Looking Stones,” Gem-A’s Claire Mitchell began by walking session attendees through the steps used to identify a stone, starting with observation and then working through the instruments that can help jewelers tell apart similar-looking stones.
I loved this session because it was a hands-on experience--half the session was a presentation and the other half had us using the instruments ourselves. (I think a lot of people were excited about this session, as it had a waiting list and attendees were lined up before it started. I was lucky enough to just make it in and get a seat with equipment.)
First, Mitchell walked us through what kind of observations can be made before using any instruments.
For example, inclusions such bubbles and swirls or molding marks that indicate a paste glass might tell you that a gemstone is man-made.
Inclusions in natural stones can help indicate what the stone might be as well, such as “horsetail inclusions” found in demantoid garnets or “lily pads” that show up in peridot.
Next, Mitchell walked us through the use of instruments such as a polariscope, spectroscope and a dichroscope.
We got to use all three on gemstone samples provided so we could see for ourselves how each worked and what the stones looked like through the instruments.
The polariscope, for example, can tell you if a stone has double or single refraction, while a spectroscope is a diagnostic tool showing a spectrum of colors that is “like having a bar code for a gemstone” to help with identification.
My personal favorite was the Chelsea Color Filter, which is a dichromatic filter that transmits two wavelengths only to help identify certain green, red and blue stones, as well as detecting dyes in certain gems.
Above is a picture of three different blue stones--aquamarine, topaz and spinel--under the filter.
I
Editors' Picks
Sponsored by
love any opportunity that allows me the chance to learn more about stones, and the sentiment in the room seemed to indicate that everyone else found the session as useful as I did.
While I’m always trying to see if I can guess what a gemstone is when I see it, Gem-A stressed that there should always be more tests involved to figure out a stone’s true identity. This session definitely made me want to go out and get some of these instruments for myself.
While I’m always trying to see if I can guess what a gemstone is when I see it, Gem-A stressed that there should always be more tests involved to figure out a stone’s true identity. This session definitely made me want to go out and get some of these instruments for myself.
More on Editors
The Latest
SurveysMay 01, 2026
Consumer Confidence Inches Up in April Despite Rising Gas PricesRespondents were concerned about the Middle East conflict and how it will impact their finances.
CollectionsMay 01, 2026
A ‘Hidden Garden’ Emerges in Tiffany & Co.’s 2026 Blue BookOur Piece of the Week, the “Butterfly” necklace, showcases a 7.02-carat oval diamond set between diamond, platinum, and 18-karat gold wings.
Brought to you by
Discover Timeless Treasures: A Showcase of Antique Jewelry & Timepieces in Las VegasGain access to the most exclusive and coveted antique pieces from trusted dealers during Las Vegas Jewelry Week.
ColumnistsApr 30, 2026
Peter Smith: A Sleazy Salesman and the Case for Regret Avoidance Smith uses a comment he overheard in the grocery store to remind retailers that their job is to inspire buying behavior, not just sell.
Weekly QuizApr 30, 2026
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
MajorsApr 30, 2026
Claire’s New Summer Campaign Is a Sensory Wonderland for Gen Alpha“A Girl SMR at Claire’s” celebrates girlhood through the five senses with stacked jewelry, slime toys, scented accessories, and ASMR.
AuctionsApr 30, 2026
Vintage Cartier Watch Crashes Through Records, Selling for $2MBelieved to be one of three made in 1987, the Cartier London Crash was hot at the “Shapes of Cartier” sale at Sotheby’s Hong Kong.
Brought to you by
Las Vegas Antique Jewelry & Watch Show: Showcasing the Most Collectible Merchandise from Across the GlobeGain access to the most exclusive and coveted antique pieces from trusted dealers during Las Vegas Jewelry Week.
CrimeApr 30, 2026
Masked Group Uses Hammers, Pepper Spray in Texas Jewelry Store RobberyOfficials are looking for a group that robbed Marc Robinson Jewelers at an outlet mall in Round Rock, Texas, in broad daylight on April 21.
Supplier BulletinApr 30, 2026
OROAREZZO 2026: The B2B Event for Italian Excellence in Goldsmith, Jewelry and Silver ManufacturingSponsored by OROAREZZO International Jewelry Exhibition
TechnologyApr 29, 2026
The Thought Process Behind the Mother's Day Email Opt-OutSome retailers are taking a nuanced approach to marketing what can be a difficult holiday for many.
IndependentsApr 29, 2026
Dick Abbott to Retire From The EdgeThe Edge has announced its new CEO, as well as a new partnership with an investment firm focused on founder-led software businesses.
SourcingApr 29, 2026
De Beers’ Production Rises, Market Remains ‘Challenged’De Beers’ diamond production was up 17 percent in Q1, boosted by increased output at its mines in South Africa and Canada.
AuctionsApr 29, 2026
This'll Be the Day You Own John Wayne's RingA signet ring belonging to the Western film star of Hollywood’s Golden Age will be up for auction at Elmwood’s next month.
Policies & IssuesApr 28, 2026
Tariff Refunds: How to File, What to Expect Importers can submit claims now to receive money back for the IEEPA tariffs they’ve paid, with refunds expected to take up to 90 days.
IndependentsApr 28, 2026
This North Carolina Jeweler Is Passing the TorchThe owners of Gregory Jewelers in Morganton, North Carolina, are heading into retirement.
SourcingApr 28, 2026
Doug Hucker Retires From ICAThe colored gemstone industry leader is heading into retirement after four years as the association’s CEO.
SourcingApr 28, 2026
NDC Hires Tapestry Exec to Head Global Marketing Susie Dewey joins the Natural Diamond Council as its new chief marketing officer.
AuctionsApr 27, 2026
12 Years Later, the ‘Ocean Dream’ Diamond Resurfaces at Christie’sThe largest known fancy vivid blue-green diamond could fetch more than $12 million at its second auction appearance.
ColumnistsApr 27, 2026
Stop Treating Mother’s Day Like an AfterthoughtEmmanuel Raheb says jewelers need to start marketing early and make it easy for customers to pick a gift for mom.
IndependentsApr 27, 2026
Longnecker Jewelry Celebrates 30 YearsIn honor of the milestone, the Nebraska jeweler has debuted Leslie & Co., its new in-house jewelry brand.
MajorsApr 27, 2026
JBT Re-Elects Jeff Corey as Board ChairThe trade organization, which held its annual elections earlier this year, also added five new board members.
SurveysApr 24, 2026
Mother’s Day 2026 Jewelry Spending to Top $7B, NRF SaysNRF’s annual survey found that 45 percent of consumers plan to purchase jewelry for a loved one this Mother’s Day.
TechnologyApr 24, 2026
TwentyFour’s Digital-Age Locket Is a Virtual VaultThe “Vault” charm, our Piece of the Week, expands on the memories that can be stored in a locket by connecting to your phone.
Events & AwardsApr 24, 2026
Hamptons Jewelry Show to Return in JulyThe open-to-the-public luxury jewelry and timepiece show, in its second year, is slated for July 23-26.
IndependentsApr 23, 2026
Meet the Real Moms of Day’s JewelersThe jeweler’s Mother’s Day campaign highlights the women who work there—mothers, grandmothers, women who want to be mothers, and dog moms.
Supplier BulletinApr 23, 2026
JM® Shipping Solution: Smarter Shipping for High-Value GoodsSponsored by Jewelers Mutual
