MajorsNov 04, 2026
Bergdorf Goodman Names New PresidentLanessa Elrod, former president and CEO of Louis Vuitton Americas, has stepped into the role as the retailer celebrates 125 years.
EditorsApr 18, 2016
A Hands-on Lesson in Telling Gemstones Apart
Senior Editor Brecken Branstrator recounts what she learned at an AGS Conclave education session on identifying gemstones presented by Gem-A.
The American Gem Society knocks it out of the park every year for their Conclave event. The keynote speakers are top-notch, and the education sessions cover a wide variety of topics presented by experts in the industry.
Held in Washington, D.C. this year, Conclave again was full of great sessions, from a panel on bridal trends, to updates on diamond prices and grading reports, to a fascinating session on diamonds and their healing powers.
A particularly cool one that I got to attend was held Friday by The Gemmological Association of Great Britain (Gem-A).
In “Separating Similar-Looking Stones,” Gem-A’s Claire Mitchell began by walking session attendees through the steps used to identify a stone, starting with observation and then working through the instruments that can help jewelers tell apart similar-looking stones.
I loved this session because it was a hands-on experience--half the session was a presentation and the other half had us using the instruments ourselves. (I think a lot of people were excited about this session, as it had a waiting list and attendees were lined up before it started. I was lucky enough to just make it in and get a seat with equipment.)
First, Mitchell walked us through what kind of observations can be made before using any instruments.
For example, inclusions such bubbles and swirls or molding marks that indicate a paste glass might tell you that a gemstone is man-made.
Inclusions in natural stones can help indicate what the stone might be as well, such as “horsetail inclusions” found in demantoid garnets or “lily pads” that show up in peridot.
Next, Mitchell walked us through the use of instruments such as a polariscope, spectroscope and a dichroscope.
We got to use all three on gemstone samples provided so we could see for ourselves how each worked and what the stones looked like through the instruments.
The polariscope, for example, can tell you if a stone has double or single refraction, while a spectroscope is a diagnostic tool showing a spectrum of colors that is “like having a bar code for a gemstone” to help with identification.
My personal favorite was the Chelsea Color Filter, which is a dichromatic filter that transmits two wavelengths only to help identify certain green, red and blue stones, as well as detecting dyes in certain gems.
Above is a picture of three different blue stones--aquamarine, topaz and spinel--under the filter.
I
Editors' Picks
Sponsored by
love any opportunity that allows me the chance to learn more about stones, and the sentiment in the room seemed to indicate that everyone else found the session as useful as I did.
While I’m always trying to see if I can guess what a gemstone is when I see it, Gem-A stressed that there should always be more tests involved to figure out a stone’s true identity. This session definitely made me want to go out and get some of these instruments for myself.
While I’m always trying to see if I can guess what a gemstone is when I see it, Gem-A stressed that there should always be more tests involved to figure out a stone’s true identity. This session definitely made me want to go out and get some of these instruments for myself.
More on Editors
The Latest
AuctionsNov 03, 2026
Infinity Gauntlet Set With 170+ Carats of Colored Gemstones Up for AuctionA replica of one of the most powerful objects in the Marvel Cinematic Universe, the glove is heading to auction next month in Abu Dhabi.
IndependentsNov 03, 2026
Longtime Jewelry Marketer Arthur Klein Dies at 89Klein, who had his own marketing agency and worked for Gabriel & Co. and Trans American Diamond, is remembered as a kind man.
Brought to you by
How Overnight Mountings’ Bridal Builder Makes Custom Engagement Ring Design Easier to SellWith customization becoming more expected in engagement ring shopping, the Bridal Builder makes the process tangible.
IndependentsNov 03, 2026
Zadok Jewelers Toasts To 50 Years With Diamond Bracelet GiveawayTo enter the giveaway, locals can purchase a featured beverage from one of eight participating restaurants in Houston and Austin, Texas.
Weekly QuizOct 29, 2026
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Events & AwardsNov 03, 2026
David Yurman Gem Awards Grant Opens 2027 ApplicationsThe grant recipient will be awarded $50,000 as well as mentoring meetings with executives at David Yurman and other industry executives.
Events & AwardsNov 03, 2026
NAJA, Instappraise Name 2026 Scholarship WinnersThe winners include a non-NAJA member seeking training, a member beginning NAJA courses, and a member becoming a Certified Master Appraiser.
Brought to you by
A Diamond Is Forever Launches 2026 Holiday Campaign Championing Natural DiamondsA Diamond Is Forever's holiday campaign reimagines natural diamond icons for a new generation celebrating individuality.
AuctionsNov 02, 2026
197-Carat ‘Romanov Sapphire’ Heads to Sotheby’s GenevaThe rare jewel, which has links to Russia’s Romanov dynasty, is estimated to fetch up to $2 million.
CrimeNov 02, 2026
Customs Seizes More Than 400 Fake Audemars Piguet WatchesIt is one of several seizures of counterfeit jewelry and watches by U.S. Customs and Border Protection officials in Louisville this year.
MajorsNov 02, 2026
Lawrence Bock, Caryl Capeci, Amanda Coleman-Phelps Join JA Board Jewelers of America announced the additions to its board of directors following its annual general meeting, held last week.
CollectionsNov 02, 2026
Olympian Kristi Yamaguchi, Heller Jewelers Expand ‘Always Dream’ CollectionThe jewelry collection supports Yamaguchi’s Always Dream foundation, which provides reading and educational resources to families in need.
Events & AwardsOct 30, 2026
Illuminating Carved Paraiba Pendant, Suite of Moonstones Wow at Spectrum AwardsSpectrum’s “Best of Show” honors went to a 101-carat Paraiba carved to look like Medusa that has a magnet-activated LED light.
TrendsOct 30, 2026
Edina Kiss’ Pendants Say ‘Eye’m Watching You’Our Halloween Pieces of the Week are four “Eye” pendants, each set with colorful gemstones.
MajorsOct 30, 2026
The RealReal Hires Former eBay Exec as New Chief Merchandising OfficerAlexis Hoopes expanded eBay’s “Authenticity Guarantee” program during her tenure.
WatchesOct 29, 2026
Bucherer Opens Rolex Boutique in Washington StateThe Rolex-owned retailer’s new 4,700-square-foot store’s façade honors the Pacific Northwest’s evergreen forests.
TrendsOct 29, 2026
Amanda's Style File: All Treats, No Tricks Get into the Halloween spirit with this roundup of 13 spooky jewels.
MajorsOct 29, 2026
Gesswein Hires Longtime Bench Jeweler, Educator Ann CahoonCahoon was appointed strategic account and educational program manager at Gesswein, which recently joined Continental Buying Group.
MajorsOct 29, 2026
Amanda Seyfried Stars In Tiffany & Co.’s Holiday CampaignTiffany & Co.’s latest ambassador makes her debut in its “Love Is a Gift” holiday campaign.
CrimeOct 28, 2026
Man In Florida Who Swallowed Tiffany & Co. Earrings ConvictedJaythan Gilder was found guilty of robbery and grand theft after stealing and then ingesting nearly $800,000 worth of Tiffany & Co. jewelry.
SurveysOct 28, 2026
Consumer Confidence Up in October as Gas Prices EaseConsumer confidence remains on the long-term downward trend that’s persisted over the past few years, said a Conference Board economist.
MajorsOct 28, 2026
Stuller’s Holiday Campaign Lets the ‘Magic of the Moment’ ShineThe holiday campaign includes key jewelry trends, a curated holiday gift guide, and resources to help jewelers prepare for holiday shoppers.
SourcingOct 27, 2026
De Beers Celebrates the Holidays With New ‘Desert Diamonds’ CampaignThe “Icons” holiday campaign spotlights four classic diamond jewelry styles reimagined in “Desert Diamond” tones.
IndependentsOct 27, 2026
Solomon Brothers Acquires Mervis Diamond ImportersSolomon Brothers, which has three stores in the Metro Atlanta area, said it may continue to acquire other independent jewelers.
IndependentsOct 27, 2026
Gabriel & Co. Supports Charity Partner DKMS With Gala, New JewelsThe fine jewelry brand raised $2.3 million at its annual gala that supports the nonprofit’s fight against blood cancer and blood disorders.
Events & AwardsOct 27, 2026
JFC Announces 2027 ‘Facets’ HonoreesThe annual fundraising event is slated for June 6, 2027, at The Venetian Resort in Las Vegas.
CollectionsOct 26, 2026
Bliss Lau’s ‘Vantage’ Point Is the Hawaiian HorizonIn her “Vantage” collection, Lau explores heritage, identity, and inner strength through designs featuring blue-green Guatemalan jade.
