MajorsJan 02, 2026
Marc Metrick Out as CEO of Saks Global Executive Chairman Richard Baker will take over the role as rumors swirl that a bankruptcy filing is imminent for the troubled retailer.
EditorsApr 18, 2016
A Hands-on Lesson in Telling Gemstones Apart
Senior Editor Brecken Branstrator recounts what she learned at an AGS Conclave education session on identifying gemstones presented by Gem-A.
The American Gem Society knocks it out of the park every year for their Conclave event. The keynote speakers are top-notch, and the education sessions cover a wide variety of topics presented by experts in the industry.
Held in Washington, D.C. this year, Conclave again was full of great sessions, from a panel on bridal trends, to updates on diamond prices and grading reports, to a fascinating session on diamonds and their healing powers.
A particularly cool one that I got to attend was held Friday by The Gemmological Association of Great Britain (Gem-A).
In “Separating Similar-Looking Stones,” Gem-A’s Claire Mitchell began by walking session attendees through the steps used to identify a stone, starting with observation and then working through the instruments that can help jewelers tell apart similar-looking stones.
I loved this session because it was a hands-on experience--half the session was a presentation and the other half had us using the instruments ourselves. (I think a lot of people were excited about this session, as it had a waiting list and attendees were lined up before it started. I was lucky enough to just make it in and get a seat with equipment.)
First, Mitchell walked us through what kind of observations can be made before using any instruments.
For example, inclusions such bubbles and swirls or molding marks that indicate a paste glass might tell you that a gemstone is man-made.
Inclusions in natural stones can help indicate what the stone might be as well, such as “horsetail inclusions” found in demantoid garnets or “lily pads” that show up in peridot.
Next, Mitchell walked us through the use of instruments such as a polariscope, spectroscope and a dichroscope.
We got to use all three on gemstone samples provided so we could see for ourselves how each worked and what the stones looked like through the instruments.
The polariscope, for example, can tell you if a stone has double or single refraction, while a spectroscope is a diagnostic tool showing a spectrum of colors that is “like having a bar code for a gemstone” to help with identification.
My personal favorite was the Chelsea Color Filter, which is a dichromatic filter that transmits two wavelengths only to help identify certain green, red and blue stones, as well as detecting dyes in certain gems.
Above is a picture of three different blue stones--aquamarine, topaz and spinel--under the filter.
I
love any opportunity that allows me the chance to learn more about stones, and the sentiment in the room seemed to indicate that everyone else found the session as useful as I did.
While I’m always trying to see if I can guess what a gemstone is when I see it, Gem-A stressed that there should always be more tests involved to figure out a stone’s true identity. This session definitely made me want to go out and get some of these instruments for myself.
While I’m always trying to see if I can guess what a gemstone is when I see it, Gem-A stressed that there should always be more tests involved to figure out a stone’s true identity. This session definitely made me want to go out and get some of these instruments for myself.
More on Editors
The Latest
Events & AwardsJan 02, 2026
Jan Mohr, Couture’s ‘North Star,’ Dies at 71Mohr had just retired in June after more than two decades as Couture’s retailer liaison.
SourcingJan 02, 2026
IDCA Elects New President, Board of DirectorsShekhar Shah of Real Gems Inc. will serve as president of the Indian Diamond & Colorstone Association in 2026.
Brought to you by
Impacting Tomorrow TodayHow Jewelers of America’s 20 Under 40 are leading to ensure a brighter future for the jewelry industry.
CollectionsJan 02, 2026
Lalaounis’ 2026 Good Luck Charm Speaks to ResilienceThis year’s good luck charm features the mythical horse Pegasus, and is our first Piece of the Week of the new year.
Weekly QuizDec 23, 2025
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
MajorsDec 30, 2025
Becka Johnson Kibby to Lead Edge Retail AcademyAs part of the leadership transition, Sherry Smith will take on the role of vice president of coaching strategy and development.
SourcingDec 30, 2025
India Chosen as KP Chair for 2026It marks the third time the country has headed the Kimberley Process. Ghana will serve as vice chair.
Brought to you by
Roseco Releases New Full-Line CatalogRoseco’s 704-page catalog showcases new lab-grown diamonds, findings, tools & more—available in print or interactive digital editions.
WatchesDec 30, 2025
Bulova, Stetson Collab on Watches With Western FlairThe new Bulova x Stetson designs highlight two animals often associated with the American West—the bison and the Texas Longhorn.
CollectionsDec 30, 2025
Rahaminov Diamonds Pops Up in FloridaIts residency at Yamron Jewelers will run through May 2026.
IndependentsDec 29, 2025
In Memoriam: Industry Friends We Lost in 2025From influential executives to innovative designers, we pay tribute to the people we said goodbye to this year.
MajorsDec 29, 2025
Tanishq Opens New Stores in Florida, VirginiaThe retailer is expanding into areas with large Indian and South Asian populations.
MajorsDec 29, 2025
Nanis Opens First Flagship Store The Italian brand has opened its first flagship amid the peaks of the Dolomites in Madonna di Campiglio, Italy.
SourcingDec 29, 2025
‘Unearthed: Raw Beauty’ Exhibition Opens at LA MuseumThe new curation at the Natural History Museum of Los Angeles County showcases rare gem and mineral specimens in their uncut, natural state.
CrimeDec 24, 2025
LA Jewelry District Couple Pleads Guilty to Hiding Millions from IRSThe couple pleaded guilty to concealing at least $127 million in cash transactions at its precious metals businesses.
SurveysDec 24, 2025
Consumer Confidence Falls Again in DecemberConsumers shared concerns about prices, inflation, tariffs, trade, and politics in the survey’s write-in response section.
AuctionsDec 24, 2025
Bonhams to Open New U.S. Flagship in NYCIn February 2026, the auction house will move its headquarters to the former Steinway Hall, a neoclassical landmark on Billionaires’ Row.
Events & AwardsDec 24, 2025
NYC Jewelry, Antique, & Object Show Announces Winter EventThe new show will take place Jan. 23-25, 2026.
SourcingDec 23, 2025
Mining Titan Brian Gilbertson Dies at 82The former BHP Billiton leader and Gemfields chairman is remembered for his influential leadership throughout his 50-year mining career.
Events & AwardsDec 23, 2025
Bulgari Reimagines Costume Designers Guild AwardThe LVMH-owned brand has partnered with the costume design union to revamp its award for 2026.
MajorsDec 23, 2025
Kering to Acquire Stake in Raselli Franco GroupThe luxury titan inked a deal to acquire an initial minority stake in the jewelry manufacturer with a pathway to full ownership by 2032.
MajorsDec 23, 2025
For Future Reference Vintage Enters Bloomingdale’sThe company’s curation of unsigned vintage and estate jewelry debuted at the Bloomingdale’s in Costa Mesa, California.
CrimeDec 22, 2025
Customs Seizes Hundreds of Fake Rolex, Cartier WatchesIn the recent multi-shipment seizure, CBP also found counterfeit Audemars Piguet, Moncler, and Chrome Hearts items.
Recorded WebinarsDec 22, 2025
2025 Jewelry Rewind: Looking Back on an Eventful Year Jewelers of America execs and National Jeweler editors discuss tariffs, the sky-high gold price, and the engagement that broke the internet.
MajorsDec 19, 2025
MadaLuxe Group Acquires Ippolita The luxury goods company said founder Ippolita Rostagno will remain at the brand’s helm.
MajorsDec 19, 2025
LVMH Names New Bulgari CEOLaura Burdese, who joined the Italian luxury brand in 2022, will take on the role in July.
EditorsDec 19, 2025
2025 Jewelry Superlatives: A Yearbook-Style Year in Review The National Jeweler editors revisit the most noteworthy industry happenings and design trends from 2025.
