FinancialsJun 02, 2026
Signet Jewelers’ Q1 Sales Up 2% As It Focuses on ‘Core Four’ The jewelry retailer is zeroing in on Zales, Jared, Kay Jewelers, and Blue Nile as it looks to create unique brand identities for each.
EditorsApr 18, 2016
A Hands-on Lesson in Telling Gemstones Apart
Senior Editor Brecken Branstrator recounts what she learned at an AGS Conclave education session on identifying gemstones presented by Gem-A.
The American Gem Society knocks it out of the park every year for their Conclave event. The keynote speakers are top-notch, and the education sessions cover a wide variety of topics presented by experts in the industry.
Held in Washington, D.C. this year, Conclave again was full of great sessions, from a panel on bridal trends, to updates on diamond prices and grading reports, to a fascinating session on diamonds and their healing powers.
A particularly cool one that I got to attend was held Friday by The Gemmological Association of Great Britain (Gem-A).
In “Separating Similar-Looking Stones,” Gem-A’s Claire Mitchell began by walking session attendees through the steps used to identify a stone, starting with observation and then working through the instruments that can help jewelers tell apart similar-looking stones.
I loved this session because it was a hands-on experience--half the session was a presentation and the other half had us using the instruments ourselves. (I think a lot of people were excited about this session, as it had a waiting list and attendees were lined up before it started. I was lucky enough to just make it in and get a seat with equipment.)
First, Mitchell walked us through what kind of observations can be made before using any instruments.
For example, inclusions such bubbles and swirls or molding marks that indicate a paste glass might tell you that a gemstone is man-made.
Inclusions in natural stones can help indicate what the stone might be as well, such as “horsetail inclusions” found in demantoid garnets or “lily pads” that show up in peridot.
Next, Mitchell walked us through the use of instruments such as a polariscope, spectroscope and a dichroscope.
We got to use all three on gemstone samples provided so we could see for ourselves how each worked and what the stones looked like through the instruments.
The polariscope, for example, can tell you if a stone has double or single refraction, while a spectroscope is a diagnostic tool showing a spectrum of colors that is “like having a bar code for a gemstone” to help with identification.
My personal favorite was the Chelsea Color Filter, which is a dichromatic filter that transmits two wavelengths only to help identify certain green, red and blue stones, as well as detecting dyes in certain gems.
Above is a picture of three different blue stones--aquamarine, topaz and spinel--under the filter.
I
love any opportunity that allows me the chance to learn more about stones, and the sentiment in the room seemed to indicate that everyone else found the session as useful as I did.
While I’m always trying to see if I can guess what a gemstone is when I see it, Gem-A stressed that there should always be more tests involved to figure out a stone’s true identity. This session definitely made me want to go out and get some of these instruments for myself.
While I’m always trying to see if I can guess what a gemstone is when I see it, Gem-A stressed that there should always be more tests involved to figure out a stone’s true identity. This session definitely made me want to go out and get some of these instruments for myself.
More on Editors
The Latest
SourcingJun 02, 2026
Leader Appointed for Botswana’s Diamonds for Development Fund Dr. Akinwumi Adesina, a development economist, will head the fund created to help Botswana diversify its economy.
WatchesJun 02, 2026
Watch Industry Veteran James Marks Joins Sotheby’sSotheby’s has appointed the former Phillips executive as its global head of private sales and retail in its watches division.
Brought to you by
All Eyes on Gold Prices. Alternatives to Look For. And What to BEWARE of in VegasAs gold prices rise, today’s retailers are looking for alternatives at prices that will appeal to wider audiences.
AuctionsJun 02, 2026
Sotheby’s to Auction 10-Carat Blue Diamond, 1960s Harry Winston Necklace A private collection of five Paraíba tourmalines also will be up for sale at Sotheby’s High Jewelry auction in New York, scheduled for June 16.
Weekly QuizMay 28, 2026
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
IndependentsJun 02, 2026
State of Retail: 6 Things Retailers Should Know About Consumers TodayFrom Gen Z’s view of luxury to “doom spending,” these are the six consumer trends to note this year.
Events & AwardsJun 01, 2026
Design Atelier Brands Have a Big Night at Emotional Couture Design AwardsThe show started by honoring Mildred Marcano, ended with a tearful Beth Anne Bonanno, and recognized a dozen-plus designers in between.
Brought to you by
How Modern Training Is Becoming a Competitive Advantage for Jewelry RetailersWith the trade and customer trust in mind, GIA® developed NextGem™ – on-demand training designed specifically for retail.
SourcingJun 01, 2026
RapNet Rebranding as Rapaport TradeThe revamped online diamond marketplace will feature pricing intelligence and data-driven tools for more efficient buying and selling.
SourcingJun 01, 2026
Gemfields’ Higher-Quality Emerald Auction Achieves $26.8MThe miner said demand for higher-quality emeralds is stable, but there is notable caution in the market.
CollectionsMay 29, 2026
Cultus Artem’s Necklace Is the Oasis in Las Vegas’ DesertThe “River of Heaven” necklace, our Piece of the Week debuting at Couture, combines 26 salt and pepper diamonds spaced by Tahitian pearls.
IndependentsMay 29, 2026
Meet the 2026 Retailer Hall of Fame InducteesThis year’s inductees include second-, third-, and fourth-generation jewelers.
Events & AwardsMay 28, 2026
JCK Announces Jesse Itzler as 2026 Keynote SpeakerThe author, speaker, and entrepreneur will give his presentation, “Spiritual Billionaire,” on Saturday morning.
Events & AwardsMay 28, 2026
JCK Rocks To Ride With NellyThree-time Grammy award-winning artist Nelly is set to perform at the annual event at Tao Beach on Sunday night.
MajorsMay 28, 2026
Signet Jewelers to Buy The Clear Cut Signet will integrate the online-only, natural diamond-focused jeweler into Blue Nile, which it wants to position as a higher-end retailer.
CollectionsMay 28, 2026
Meet The 17 Newcomers to Couture’s Design AtelierThese up-and-coming jewelry brands are bringing their distinct aesthetic and unique point-of-view to the Design Atelier for the first time.
GradingMay 28, 2026
GCAL By Sarine Launches 8X Cushion CutThe lab’s proprietary diamond cut grade has been expanded to include the popular fancy shape.
Events & AwardsMay 27, 2026
5 Security Tips for Las Vegas Jewelry Market Week 2026This year, it’s what could happen outside of show hours that worries JSA Executive Vice President Scott Guginsky.
ColumnistsMay 27, 2026
What Jewelers Can Learn From Luxury Fashion’s Digital PlaybookHigh-end fashion houses know how to emotionally connect with customers online. Retail jewelers should take note, Emmanuel Raheb writes.
Events & AwardsMay 27, 2026
Couture’s ‘The Iridescence’ Will Showcase 7 Emerging Jewelry DesignersThe designers are the third cohort of mentees from the show’s Belonging @ Couture mentorship program.
ColumnistsMay 26, 2026
The Key Mindset for Better Trade Show BuyingBuying discipline at trade shows starts with clarity about your inventory levels, Smith writes.
Events & AwardsMay 26, 2026
12 JCK Talks Sessions to Add to Your Las Vegas ScheduleThe trade show’s education series returns, with sessions on retail trends, AI, watches, marketing, corporate responsibility, and more.
Events & AwardsMay 26, 2026
CBG Brings Its Curated Designer Project to Las Vegas ShowThe Curated Designer Project has expanded to highlight eight independent jewelry designers during CBG’s Las Vegas show.
TrendsMay 26, 2026
Amanda’s Style File: A Cooldown Is ComingBring a cool tone to your summer jewelry with these white metal pieces.
Events & AwardsMay 22, 2026
Instore Buys JA New York ShowThe deal closed this week, which means Instore will produce the JA NY show slated to take place this fall.
FinancialsMay 22, 2026
Richemont’s Jewelry Brands Lead the Charge in Q4The company’s jewelry sales were up in Q4 and the fiscal year, with Richemont raising prices in part because of the cost of gold.
CollectionsMay 22, 2026
Leigh Maxwell Celebrates 5 Years at Couture With ‘Bauble’ CollectionThe “Bauble” capsule collection of colorful one-of-a-kinds includes our Piece of the Week, the “Bauble” earrings, featuring rose zircon.
