Trends

Reza’s New York Impact

TrendsMay 08, 2018

Reza’s New York Impact

The European Fine Art Fair’s biannual New York show has become the de facto home for a select group of fine jewelers.

20180508_Reza-header.jpg
Reza’s Branches Courtes earrings feature an unheated emerald-cut Burmese sapphire weighing 4.77 carats, a pear-shaped minimum oil SSEF Brazilian emerald weighing 2.67 carats, 18 marquise-shaped diamonds, six pear-shaped diamonds and 10 brilliant-cut diamonds all set in sandblasted and polished 18-karat white gold.

New York--The European Fine Art Fair (TEFAF) is first and foremost a visual art and antiques fair, but since launching its New York biennial in 2016 it’s also become the New York base for a few noteworthy jewelry designers.

One of these is Reza, the Parisian high jeweler with a salon on the iconic Place Vendôme.

The business was launched 40 years ago by Alexandre Reza, a Russian immigrant to France who hailed from a family of jewelers. Reza developed an expertise for gemstones, and used it to supply stones and design jewelry for many of the Place Vendôme’s jewelry houses.

Eventually he went out on his own, opening a handful of stores.

A decade ago, Alexandre’s son Olivier took the helm.

“I decided to focus and operate just from one location and make a few pieces a year, most of them really unique, original designs mostly influenced by the stone and the moment and what I believe collectors are looking for,” explained the younger Reza at this year’s TEFAF New York Spring show.

Reza is, like his father, an expert in gemstones and design. Creatively he and one other designer are responsible for envisioning the house’s 40 to 60 pieces per year, many of them one-of-a-kind; a team of additional designers helps execute the details of each specific jewel.

For Reza, staying true to his father’s heritage means striking a balance between the power of a gemstone and resonance of design.

“Our DNA is one that is more subtle than big brands that want to have a very specific iconic image,” he explained. “We still use very important and special gems so the design cannot overshadow that. We have to find always the right balance.


Pictured on display at TEFAF, the Double Swing Ring features two marquise-shaped diamonds—an E-color internally flawless stone weighing 3.08 carats and a fancy intense yellow diamond weighing 3.59 carats—on a spiral of calibrated diamonds enhanced by pink and orange brilliant-cut diamonds, set in yellow and white gold.

“We make jewelry that is wearable with designs that transcend the stones that are on the pieces. So the stones are always on their own unique and special but we want to contribute a design and manufacture that is also unique and special to create a combination that becomes a collectible piece.”

Reza likens this relationship between material and design to require the
talents of a composer, rather than a mere designer.

He explained: “With jewelry you have the functionality aspect. It needs to look good. It needs to make the woman or man feel better. Then you have the stones and the choice of the stones you want to put in motion and then you have the design that carries those stones. These three aspects need to work together to make something harmonious. That’s why I call it a composition.”

To reach the American connoisseur who appreciates this thoughtfulness, Reza is relying on TEFAF, which, unlike a jewelry trade show, only allows a select few jewelers to exhibit. This year, German brand Hemmerle, New York’s antique dealer FD Gallery, and, for the first time, James Taffin de Givenchy, were the other jewelers to participate.

Reza said he began exhibiting at TEFAF Maastricht four years ago. He’s shown at the New York editions since their first iteration.


The Corne D’Abondance Earrings feature two white cultured pearls weighing 23.95 carats, 44 emerald beads weighing 21.18 carats, 108 round cultured pearls weighing 42.20 carats and 318 spessartite garnets, all set in 18-karat yellow gold.

“The curation, the quality … it’s just at the right level,” he said. “It’s the only (fair) we comfortable with. We’re still looking for others.”

New pieces unveiled at the fair, happening now at the Park Avenue Armory in Manhattan, include a bypass “swing” ring featuring a matching pair of marquise diamonds—one yellow and one white—that total six carats, set in 18-karat yellow and 18-karat white gold accented with white and orange diamonds on every one of its curving planes.

“This piece is very special because my father always told me to buy pairs,” Reza said. “He was talking about furniture or anything because two of something really nice is always more valuable than one. It’s very difficult to find two marquise or any two stones that match so well and of two different colors is incredible. We took two stones that on their own are already a big statement and we created a design that enhances them and creates the right motion.”

He said that he doesn’t gravitate toward any particular type of stone for his clients; rather, he is after the highest quality stone that crosses his path.

“The saturation needs to be intense, the color needs to matter,” he said as he displayed a new pair of deep green emerald and diamond earrings. “It’s very rare to find a pair of Colombian emeralds of 10 carats each for that color.”

Also on view were some of the house’s archival pieces, designed by Reza’s father, in addition to the popular Ribbon pieces, which feature cascading, dramatic curves of diamonds and gemstones.

The TEFAF New York Spring show concludes Tuesday.
Ashley Davisis the senior editor, fashion at National Jeweler, covering all things related to design, style and trends.

The Latest

Mark and Candy Udell
Events & AwardsJul 24, 2025
2 Retailers to Receive 2026 Gem Award for Lifetime Achievement

Mark and Candy Udell of London Jewelers will receive the honor at the 24th annual Gem Awards next March.

De Beers marine mining vessel the SS Nujoma
SourcingJul 24, 2025
De Beers Sees Diamond Production Sink 36% in Q2

While struggles continue at the mining and trading end of the pipeline, consumer demand for diamond jewelry is holding steady.

Francesca Villa Fantasia Collection The Crab Pendant, The Mermaid Pendant, Keep Dancing Seahorse Pendant, Keep Dancing Ladybug Pendant, Secret Dreams Pendant, The Puffer Fish Takes Flight Pendant
CollectionsJul 24, 2025
Francesca Villa Adds Dimension to Her Intaglio Characters

The “Fantasia” jewelry collection turns the intaglio animals from her “Close Encounters” collection into 3D characters.

rio-article photo-diamond.jpg
Brought to you by
Taking the Moment Head On: How Rio Grande Champions the Present & Future of Fine Jewelry

As a leading global jewelry supplier, Rio Grande is rapidly expanding and developing new solutions to meet the needs of jewelers worldwide.

Breitling’s special Eagles Super Bowl watch on gold bracelet
WatchesJul 24, 2025
Breitling Drops Super Bowl Watch Honoring the Philadelphia Eagles

The special Classic Avi Chronograph 42 with an Eagles-green dial is limited to 59 pieces, a nod to the Super Bowl Philadelphia just won.

Weekly QuizJul 17, 2025
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Stock image of crime scene tape
CrimeJul 23, 2025
JSA Warns of Violent String of Smash-and-Grabs in California

JSA has received reports of mobs swarming jewelry stores, driving cars into the storefront or smashing through the windows.

Silvia Furmanovich Kasmir Collection Carnelian Bracelet and Sketch
CollectionsJul 23, 2025
Silvia Furmanovich’s ‘Kashmir’ Collection Is a Tribute to Northern India

The “Kashmir” collection features centuries-old craft techniques made in collaboration with the region’s master papier-mâché artisans.

an instructor and a student in a bench jewelry classroom
Brought to you by
Investing in the Next Generation of Bench Jewelers

The Seymour & Evelyn Holtzman Bench Scholarship from Jewelers of America returns for a second year.

Bench jeweler holding a bracelet and a tool
IndependentsJul 23, 2025
Montreal’s Ecksand Eyes Move to SoHo

Creative Director Erica Bianchini shared why the jeweler is looking to expand into the U.S. and how it’s putting Canadian craftsmanship on the map.

LAFD Fire Station 44 and Fire Station 16
IndependentsJul 23, 2025
IJO Raises Nearly $37K for LA Fire Relief

Two Los Angeles Fire Department stations plan to use the donations to upgrade their equipment and tools.

A Vanitas by Hannah Martin and Guy Berryman Sothebys
CollectionsJul 22, 2025
Jewelry With a Rock ‘n’ Roll Aesthetic Heads to Sotheby’s London

Next week, the auction house will kick off a selling exhibition of jewelry by British artist Hannah Martin and Coldplay’s Guy Berryman.

Cover of the book “Flawless: Inside the Largest Diamond Heist in History”
SourcingJul 22, 2025
Antwerp Diamond Heist Documentary Coming to Netflix

“Stolen: Heist of the Century” is based on “Flawless,” the book about the middle-of-the-night theft, and will debut on Netflix in August.

Emmanuel Raheb
ColumnistsJul 22, 2025
The Gifting Gap: How to Market Jewelry Beyond the Holidays

Emmanuel Raheb shares the top five gifting moments outside of major holidays that jewelers should build marketing campaigns around.

NY Now
Events & AwardsJul 22, 2025
NY Now’s Summer Market Returns in August

The wholesale trade show’s Luxury Lifestyle section will showcase established and emerging jewelry designers.

Jeweler setting a diamond into a ring
MajorsJul 21, 2025
Rio Grande Expands Personalization Offerings

As demand for custom jewelry grows, the company is expanding its services to support retailers.

National Associate of Jewelry Appraisers Logo
Events & AwardsJul 21, 2025
NAJA’s 2025 ‘Ace It’ Conference To Go Virtual

The mid-year conference for jewelry and watch appraisers is slated for Aug. 9 to 10 on Zoom.

24th Gem Awards Show Logo
Events & AwardsJul 21, 2025
Gem Awards Now Accepting Nominations for 2026

Nominations in the categories of Jewelry Design, Media Excellence, and Retail Innovation will be accepted through July 30.

Lewis Heyman
MajorsJul 18, 2025
Lewis Heyman on Sourcing Gemstones, Post-Retirement Plans

He retired last month after 28 years traveling the world to source the very best gemstones for his family’s jewelry business, Oscar Heyman.

The Plumb Club board members
MajorsJul 18, 2025
Plumb Club Elects New Board Members

The organization elected its youngest vice president as it looks to draw in fresh talent.

Jewelry industry veterans Brad Campbell and John Liebler
TechnologyJul 18, 2025
Brad Campbell, John Liebler Join Clientbook’s Executive Team

Campbell joins the company as vice president of business development while Liebler is the new vice president of operations.

Silver, Gold, and Bronze Medals for Italy Olympic Winter Games
CollectionsJul 17, 2025
2026 Winter Olympic Medal Design Symbolizes Unity

The medals feature a split-texture design highlighting the Games’ first time being hosted by two cities and the athletes’ journeys.

vimeo screenshot.png
Supplier BulletinJul 17, 2025
The INSTORE Jewelry Show 2025: Your Holiday Preparations, All Wrapped Up!

Sponsored by The INSTORE Jewelry Show 2025

Guinness
SurveysJul 17, 2025
The Most Recommended Brands in the World, According to YouGov

Globally, travel and transportation brands reigned, while in the U.S., alcoholic beverage companies and a lingerie brand took the top spots.

Gina Ferranti
IndependentsJul 17, 2025
Gina Ferranti of GiGi Ferranti Jewelry Dies at 59

The Brooklyn-based jewelry designer is remembered as a true artist and a rare talent.

Rio Tinto Chief Executive Simon Trott
SourcingJul 17, 2025
Rio Tinto Names New CEO, Production Rises at Diavik

Production at the mine in Canada’s Northwest Territories topped 1 million carats in Q2, the third consecutive quarter of growth.

Jewelers of America Learning Workship Logo
Events & AwardsJul 17, 2025
JA to Hold Learning Workshops This Fall

A new slate of Learning Workshops will take place in Oklahoma, Mississippi, and Georgia.

Gold bracelets and bangles
SurveysJul 16, 2025
Signet Jewelers Falls Lower on NRF’s ‘Top 100’ Retailers List

The middle class is changing its approach to buying jewelry and affordable luxury goods, the NRF said.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy