SurveysApr 03, 2025
2025 Retail Sales to Grow More Slowly Amid ‘Uncertainty,’ Says NRFThe National Retail Federation expects retail sales growth to return to pre-pandemic levels as consumers continue to face inflation.
TrendsDec 06, 2017
Fine Jewelry Trend: Bezel, Set, Go!
Designers are moving away from intricate, highly wrought settings and toward the bold, minimalist appeal of bezels.
Jemma Wynne’s “Prive Luxe Slider” bracelet in 18-karat yellow gold with emeralds and diamonds ($9,555)
New York--Fine jewelry has recently taken a minimalist turn, with many designers opting for bold, clean looks over intricate, highly wrought styles.
Bezel settings perfectly achieve an impactful but minimal feel, showcasing diamonds and gemstones the way a frame holds a painting. The setting is being employed across all fashion jewelry categories and even in engagement rings as the halo setting begins to wane in popularity.
“I’ve been using bezel settings since I started making jewelry over 20 years ago,” said designer Zoe Chicco, who produces all of her pieces in-house at her Los Angeles facility. “It was the first setting I ever used in my designs.
“Even my wedding ring, which is a simple bezel-set radiant-cut diamond, was based on one of the first pieces I ever made. I love the solid feel of the stones being enclosed in the metal and it feels very modern, clean and compliments my aesthetic. Recently, I have started using prong settings as well, but bezels still are and will always be my favorite way to set stones.”
While many brands are setting exquisite and rare gems in bezels, the setting can also up the wow factor for a simple or small stone. Kismet by Milka has taken to creating bezel-set tennis bracelets and even a bezel-set tennis-style choker.
"I like using a bezel setting in our collections as I think it gives a stronger feeling and texture to pieces that would otherwise be considered classics,” said Kismet by Milka designer Milka Karaağaçlı. “In our ‘Rainbow collection,’ the bezel setting made each colorway stand out more than usual when next to another color.”
Anita Ko’s 18-karat yellow gold bezel pendant with 0.97-carat blue heart-shaped sapphire ($3,375)
AnitaKo.com
AnitaKo.com
Azlee’s 18-karat yellow gold custom engagement ring with 2.04-carat, F+ color shield-shaped diamond (price available upon request)
AzleeJewelry.com
AzleeJewelry.com
Dezso’s 18-karat rose gold earrings with carved rhodolite and diamonds ($2,200)
TwistOnline.com
TwistOnline.com
Diana Mitchell’s 18-karat rose gold stud earrings with champagne diamonds totaling 0.3 carats ($1,250)
DianaMitchellJewelry.com
DianaMitchellJewelry.com
EF Collection’s 14-karat yellow gold ear climber set with 10 diamonds totaling 0.7 carats ($985)
EFCollection.com
EFCollection.com
Elena Votsi’s 18-karat yellow gold ring with Gemfields emeralds, ruby, amethyst and garnets ($7,900)
ElenaVotsi.com
ElenaVotsi.com
Ilana Ariel’s 14-karat white gold “Stepping Stone Flower” earrings with white diamonds ($11,520)
IlanaArielCollections.com
IlanaArielCollections.com
Irene Neuwirth’s 18-karat rose gold ring with 3 mm Rose of France amethysts (price available upon request)
IreneNeuwirth.com
IreneNeuwirth.com
Jemma Wynne’s “Prive Luxe Slider” bracelet in 18-karat yellow gold with emeralds and diamonds ($9,555)
JemmaWynne.com
JemmaWynne.com
Jennifer Meyer’s 18-karat yellow gold and three-diamond drop earrings ($6,950)
Net-A-Porter.com
Net-A-Porter.com
Jillian Abboud
JillianAbboud.com' width='1104' presentation='gallery'>
Kismet by Milka’s 14-karat rose gold and blue sapphire bracelet ($1,720)
KismetByMilka.com
KismetByMilka.com
Marian Maurer 18-karat recycled yellow gold “Porch” band with multi-hued Montana sapphires ($4,350)
Museum of Arts and Design in New York City
Museum of Arts and Design in New York City
Retrouvaí’s 14-karat yellow gold multicolor tourmaline “Gypsy" earrings ($4,990)
Ylang23.com
Ylang23.com
Sarah Hendler’s 18-karat yellow gold one-of-a-kind rhodolite and iolite ring ($9,260) BergdorfGoodman.com
Sophie Bille Brahe’s “Flacon de Neige” 18-karat yellow gold single earring with diamonds ($2,240)
Dover Street Market New York
Dover Street Market New York
Tate’s 18-karat yellow gold and diamond earrings ($690)
TateJewels.com
TateJewels.com
Zoe Chicco’s 14-karat yellow gold and diamond ring ($1,695)
ZoeChicco.com
ZoeChicco.com
Several designers mentioned that a bezel can give an old-fashioned item a sense of modernity.
Ilana Sarna of brand Ilana Ariel commented: “Some of my designs, especially from the ‘Stepping Stone’ collection, have an antique or retro vibe. By using bezel settings as opposed to prongs, I tried to make the pieces feel more modern. I love melding different design elements because it yields classic but very wearable jewelry.”
The setting can also be employed in a more organic manner.
Designer Marian Maurer’s bezel-set eternity bands embody a tactile, natural feel and are a brand signature, highlighting both diamonds and colored gemstones.
“I have always bezel set our stones because of my love of gold (and) feeling the sculptural aspects of the metal surrounding the gems and for practical reasons,” Maurer explained.
Editors' Picks
Sponsored by
“It (also) protects the stone from damage and allows for everyday wear of the piece,” she added.
Bezel settings are less precious and more bold than other setting styles not just in appearance, but in function as well, as Maurer pointed out. They provide a stable base for a stone, shielding its edges.
The trade-off is, of-course, seeing less of a stone and more of the metal surrounding it. But this isn’t a problem for contemporary designers, who are overwhelmingly favoring yellow gold for now.
“A bezel setting allows for more gold to be seen,” said Diana Mitchell, designer of the eponymous line, “and I love 18-karat gold, so the more, the better.”
Bezel settings are less precious and more bold than other setting styles not just in appearance, but in function as well, as Maurer pointed out. They provide a stable base for a stone, shielding its edges.
The trade-off is, of-course, seeing less of a stone and more of the metal surrounding it. But this isn’t a problem for contemporary designers, who are overwhelmingly favoring yellow gold for now.
“A bezel setting allows for more gold to be seen,” said Diana Mitchell, designer of the eponymous line, “and I love 18-karat gold, so the more, the better.”
More on Trends
The Latest
SourcingApr 03, 2025
Canadian Mine Produces 158-Carat Yellow Diamond Rio Tinto unearthed the diamond at its Diavik mine in Canada’s Northwest Territories.
CollectionsApr 03, 2025
Buccellati to Open Immersive Exhibition in MilanThe multisensory experience, open April 8-13, will feature the brand’s silver creations among dream-like scenes of natural landscapes.
Brought to you by
The Heart of the Industry: Giving Bench Jewelers the Recognition They DeserveBench jewelers spend years honing their skills, Jewelers of America’s Certification validates their talents.
Policies & IssuesApr 03, 2025
Jewelers of America to Hold Webinar on TariffsThe virtual event will take place April 7 at 3 p.m.
Weekly QuizApr 03, 2025
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
CollectionsApr 02, 2025
Bea Bongiasca’s ‘Tarallo’ Collection Expansion Is a ZooThe pieces in “Animali Tarallo” portray animals from stingrays to elephants through portraits and interpretations of their patterns.
MajorsApr 02, 2025
Neiman Marcus’ Dallas Flagship Will Remain Open, For NowParent company Saks Global said the iconic location will be open through the holiday season as it decides what to do with the space.
Brought to you by
Natural Diamonds Should Mean MoreNatural diamonds mean more than lab-grown, but when every cut is ideal, they all look the same. Customers want more—Facets of Fire delivers.
SourcingApr 02, 2025
Winston’s Collection of Natural Color Diamonds Now on Display in D.C. Ronald Winston, son of Harry Winston, donated the diamonds to the Smithsonian National Museum of Natural History in Washington, D.C.
Events & AwardsApr 02, 2025
Punchmark to Host Client WorkshopThe educational event will take place in Charlotte, North Carolina, this May.
IndependentsApr 01, 2025
Bergman Jewelers in Omaha Closing After 137 YearsThe independent jeweler first opened its doors in 1888.
MajorsApr 01, 2025
QVC Group to Cut 900 Jobs in the U.S.The layoffs come amid the TV shopping channel’s efforts to restructure and focus on live shopping through social media.
Events & AwardsApr 01, 2025
U.S. Antique Shows Adds Fall Show in FloridaThe debut event will take place in Miami’s Coconut Grove neighborhood this fall.
Events & AwardsApr 01, 2025
TJS to Host Discussion on Jewelry Industry’s Labor ShortageThe roundtable will take place May 17 ahead of the trade show’s welcome dinner.
CollectionsApr 01, 2025
Monica Rich Kosann Says ‘Good Grief’ in Peanuts Jewelry CollectionThe “Peanuts x Monica Rich Kosann” collection features the comic strip’s classic vocabulary across 10 bracelet designs.
Recorded WebinarsMar 31, 2025
Watch: What Do We Mean When We Say ‘Recycled’ Gold?Three industry experts dive into the complexities of the material often marketed as an “ethical” alternative for metal in jewelry.
MajorsMar 31, 2025
Lashbrook Expands Into Luxury Golf Gifts With AcquisitionThe Utah-based company known for making wedding bands has acquired Doubloon Golf.
WatchesMar 31, 2025
Bulgari CEO Jean-Christophe Babin Will Also Head LVMH WatchesThe longtime luxury executive led one of LVMH’s watch brands, TAG Heuer, for 12 years before taking over Bulgari in 2013.
CrimeMar 28, 2025
2 Suspects Arrested in $1.7M Smash-and-Grab Robbery of NY Jewelry StoreAuthorities said the robbers fled with jewelry and 70 Rolex watches, later taking pictures of themselves posing with big stacks of cash.
SourcingMar 28, 2025
19th-Century Jade Book Now Available in EnglishLotus Gemology founder Richard W. Hughes has translated Heinrich Fischer’s 1880 book “Nephrit und Jadeit” from its original German.
CollectionsMar 28, 2025
Piece of the Week: Löf’s ‘The Valentine’ RingThe ring's design features contrasting lines influenced by work from architecture-inspired photographer Nikola Olic.
SurveysMar 27, 2025
Consumer Confidence Falls in March Amid ‘Gloomy’ OutlookThe Conference Board’s index fell as consumers continued to worry about the impact of tariffs, the labor market, and the price of eggs.
AuctionsMar 27, 2025
300-Year-Old Ring Linked to Witch Trial Judge Goes Unsold at Auction However, two medieval jewels surpassed estimates at Noonans Mayfair’s recent jewelry auction in London.
WatchesMar 27, 2025
Austin Butler Joins Breitling as Brand AmbassadorThe Oscar-nominated actor debuted in the campaign for the new “Top Time B31” collection, which introduced Breitling’s Caliber B31.
SourcingMar 27, 2025
Susan Jacques, Gaetano Cavalieri to Headline 2025 ICA Congress The Congress is scheduled to take place May 19-22 in Brasilia, Brazil.
IndependentsMar 26, 2025
Bailey’s Fine Jewelry Acquires Fellow NC Independent JewelerThe family-owned retailer is the new owner of Morrison Smith Jewelers in Charlotte, North Carolina.
WatchesMar 26, 2025
Bulova Celebrates 150th Anniversary With Art Deco WatchesThe “150 Art Deco” collection features a Miss America timepiece and a pocket watch from the brand’s Archive Series.
