MajorsSep 22, 2026
Foundrae’s Lawsuit Against Pandora Can Continue, Court RulesA federal judge denied Pandora’s motion to dismiss Foundrae’s claim for copyright infringement of its medallions.
TrendsDec 06, 2017
Fine Jewelry Trend: Bezel, Set, Go!
Designers are moving away from intricate, highly wrought settings and toward the bold, minimalist appeal of bezels.
Jemma Wynne’s “Prive Luxe Slider” bracelet in 18-karat yellow gold with emeralds and diamonds ($9,555)
New York--Fine jewelry has recently taken a minimalist turn, with many designers opting for bold, clean looks over intricate, highly wrought styles.
Bezel settings perfectly achieve an impactful but minimal feel, showcasing diamonds and gemstones the way a frame holds a painting. The setting is being employed across all fashion jewelry categories and even in engagement rings as the halo setting begins to wane in popularity.
“I’ve been using bezel settings since I started making jewelry over 20 years ago,” said designer Zoe Chicco, who produces all of her pieces in-house at her Los Angeles facility. “It was the first setting I ever used in my designs.
“Even my wedding ring, which is a simple bezel-set radiant-cut diamond, was based on one of the first pieces I ever made. I love the solid feel of the stones being enclosed in the metal and it feels very modern, clean and compliments my aesthetic. Recently, I have started using prong settings as well, but bezels still are and will always be my favorite way to set stones.”
While many brands are setting exquisite and rare gems in bezels, the setting can also up the wow factor for a simple or small stone. Kismet by Milka has taken to creating bezel-set tennis bracelets and even a bezel-set tennis-style choker.
"I like using a bezel setting in our collections as I think it gives a stronger feeling and texture to pieces that would otherwise be considered classics,” said Kismet by Milka designer Milka Karaağaçlı. “In our ‘Rainbow collection,’ the bezel setting made each colorway stand out more than usual when next to another color.”
Anita Ko’s 18-karat yellow gold bezel pendant with 0.97-carat blue heart-shaped sapphire ($3,375)
AnitaKo.com
AnitaKo.com
Azlee’s 18-karat yellow gold custom engagement ring with 2.04-carat, F+ color shield-shaped diamond (price available upon request)
AzleeJewelry.com
AzleeJewelry.com
Dezso’s 18-karat rose gold earrings with carved rhodolite and diamonds ($2,200)
TwistOnline.com
TwistOnline.com
Diana Mitchell’s 18-karat rose gold stud earrings with champagne diamonds totaling 0.3 carats ($1,250)
DianaMitchellJewelry.com
DianaMitchellJewelry.com
EF Collection’s 14-karat yellow gold ear climber set with 10 diamonds totaling 0.7 carats ($985)
EFCollection.com
EFCollection.com
Elena Votsi’s 18-karat yellow gold ring with Gemfields emeralds, ruby, amethyst and garnets ($7,900)
ElenaVotsi.com
ElenaVotsi.com
Ilana Ariel’s 14-karat white gold “Stepping Stone Flower” earrings with white diamonds ($11,520)
IlanaArielCollections.com
IlanaArielCollections.com
Irene Neuwirth’s 18-karat rose gold ring with 3 mm Rose of France amethysts (price available upon request)
IreneNeuwirth.com
IreneNeuwirth.com
Jemma Wynne’s “Prive Luxe Slider” bracelet in 18-karat yellow gold with emeralds and diamonds ($9,555)
JemmaWynne.com
JemmaWynne.com
Jennifer Meyer’s 18-karat yellow gold and three-diamond drop earrings ($6,950)
Net-A-Porter.com
Net-A-Porter.com
Jillian Abboud
JillianAbboud.com' width='1104' presentation='gallery'>
Kismet by Milka’s 14-karat rose gold and blue sapphire bracelet ($1,720)
KismetByMilka.com
KismetByMilka.com
Marian Maurer 18-karat recycled yellow gold “Porch” band with multi-hued Montana sapphires ($4,350)
Museum of Arts and Design in New York City
Museum of Arts and Design in New York City
Retrouvaí’s 14-karat yellow gold multicolor tourmaline “Gypsy" earrings ($4,990)
Ylang23.com
Ylang23.com
Sarah Hendler’s 18-karat yellow gold one-of-a-kind rhodolite and iolite ring ($9,260) BergdorfGoodman.com
Sophie Bille Brahe’s “Flacon de Neige” 18-karat yellow gold single earring with diamonds ($2,240)
Dover Street Market New York
Dover Street Market New York
Tate’s 18-karat yellow gold and diamond earrings ($690)
TateJewels.com
TateJewels.com
Zoe Chicco’s 14-karat yellow gold and diamond ring ($1,695)
ZoeChicco.com
ZoeChicco.com
Several designers mentioned that a bezel can give an old-fashioned item a sense of modernity.
Ilana Sarna of brand Ilana Ariel commented: “Some of my designs, especially from the ‘Stepping Stone’ collection, have an antique or retro vibe. By using bezel settings as opposed to prongs, I tried to make the pieces feel more modern. I love melding different design elements because it yields classic but very wearable jewelry.”
The setting can also be employed in a more organic manner.
Designer Marian Maurer’s bezel-set eternity bands embody a tactile, natural feel and are a brand signature, highlighting both diamonds and colored gemstones.
“I have always bezel set our stones because of my love of gold (and) feeling the sculptural aspects of the metal surrounding the gems and for practical reasons,” Maurer explained.
“It (also) protects the stone from damage and allows for everyday wear of the piece,” she added.
Bezel settings are less precious and more bold than other setting styles not just in appearance, but in function as well, as Maurer pointed out. They provide a stable base for a stone, shielding its edges.
The trade-off is, of-course, seeing less of a stone and more of the metal surrounding it. But this isn’t a problem for contemporary designers, who are overwhelmingly favoring yellow gold for now.
“A bezel setting allows for more gold to be seen,” said Diana Mitchell, designer of the eponymous line, “and I love 18-karat gold, so the more, the better.”
Bezel settings are less precious and more bold than other setting styles not just in appearance, but in function as well, as Maurer pointed out. They provide a stable base for a stone, shielding its edges.
The trade-off is, of-course, seeing less of a stone and more of the metal surrounding it. But this isn’t a problem for contemporary designers, who are overwhelmingly favoring yellow gold for now.
“A bezel setting allows for more gold to be seen,” said Diana Mitchell, designer of the eponymous line, “and I love 18-karat gold, so the more, the better.”
More on Trends
The Latest
ColumnistsSep 22, 2026
Peter Smith: Our Struggle With Emotional SellingPeople aren’t thinking rationally when they are buying luxury products, and we shouldn’t be selling them that way, Peter Smith writes.
IndependentsSep 22, 2026
Constance Polamalu Named to '40 Under 40' ListThe Baltimore Business Journal recognized the entrepreneur for her leadership in business and the jewelry industry.
Brought to you by
Meet Gemology’s Next Generation Microscope: GIA® Gemolite® NXT Professional EditionExperience gemstones with greater precision and comfort than ever before.
GradingSep 22, 2026
GCAL by Sarine Opens New Lab in MumbaiThe facility is located within SEEPZ and is GCAL by Sarine’s second location in India, joining its existing grading lab in Surat.
Weekly QuizSep 17, 2026
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Events & AwardsSep 22, 2026
NYCJAOS Returns for Autumn EditionThe four-day show is slated for Nov. 19-22 at the Metropolitan Pavilion in New York City’s Chelsea neighborhood.
AuctionsSep 21, 2026
Ultra-Rare Cartier Cheich Watch Sells for $3.4M Offered at Sotheby’s Hong Kong, the one-of-a-kind white gold watch now holds the title of most valuable Cartier wristwatch sold at auction.
Brought to you by
Your Piece Could Be the One Editors Talk AboutSubmit your pieces for a chance to win in this year's competition.
MajorsSep 21, 2026
Longtime Industry Executive Pamela Bernstein-Gulla to RetireBernstein-Gulla has been working in the jewelry industry for 40 years, most recently as chief engagement officer for Hill & Co.
IndependentsSep 21, 2026
Bhindi Jewelers Moves Into New, Larger California StoreThe relocated Glendale store, now at The Americana at Brand, was designed to be a contemporary “timepiece haven” inspired by luxury resorts.
AuctionsSep 18, 2026
7.52-Carat Unheated Paraíba Tourmaline Sells for $1.3M at Sotheby’s The top lot of the auction house’s Hong Kong jewelry sale was an Art Deco Mauboussin necklace with ruby beads, which sold for $2 million.
Policies & IssuesSep 18, 2026
Tariffs, Retail Crime Top of Mind at JA’s Annual Fly-In Retailers and manufacturers headed to the Capitol this week to discuss tariff exemptions for diamonds and gemstones, among other issues.
CollectionsSep 18, 2026
Nanis Transforms Its ‘Boule’ Into a Mirror Our Piece of the Week is a pair of drop earrings from the “Sway” collection featuring Nanis’ first use of mirror-polished gold.
GradingSep 18, 2026
De Beers Introduces Faster Version of Diamond Screening Machine SynthDetect 2 can scan a full tray in less than five minutes, De Beers said, making it six times faster than its predecessors.
AuctionsSep 18, 2026
Noonans To Auction Medieval Gold Seal Ring Recovered By 2 FriendsTwo metal detectorists discovered the ring, which may have belonged to English noblewoman Matilda of Lancaster, in Suffolk.
Policies & IssuesSep 17, 2026
Tariffs on India Could Increase as Russian Sanctions Bill Heads to Trump’s DeskThe bill has a provision that allows the president to raise tariffs on countries that import Russian oil and gas to as much as 100 percent.
Events & AwardsSep 17, 2026
This Is the Winner of the 2026 Robert M. Shipley AwardThe American Gem Society presented the annual award to a former president of its board.
CollectionsSep 17, 2026
Cynthia Erivo, Zoë Chicco’s Jewelry Collab Is an Ode to TransformationThe “Chrysalis” capsule centers butterfly motifs representing growth, transformation, and the unfolding of who you are.
Events & AwardsSep 17, 2026
Louisiana Retailer Kevin Patton Wins Lifetime Achievement AwardJewelers of Louisiana presented Patton, the third-generation president of Pattons Fine Jewelry, with the award at its annual convention.
PodcastsSep 16, 2026
Episode 9: Remembering Cindy EdelsteinTwo special guests join the podcast to commemorate the 10th anniversary of the designer advocate, mentor, and author’s untimely passing.
CollectionsSep 16, 2026
Jessica McCormack, L’Objet Collab on Homewares CollectionMcCormack brings sea-inspired motifs from her “Beaches” collection to L’Objet’s tableware, vanity pieces, and first-ever cutlery set.
CrimeSep 16, 2026
JSA Issues Warning to NJ Jewelers After Rash of Smash and GrabsNine New Jersey jewelers have been victims of smash-and-grab robberies this year, prompting JSA to circulate a list of recommendations.
IndependentsSep 16, 2026
Bromberg & Co. Names New PresidentMarlin “Brian” Hood, who has been with the store for 20 years, will succeed Ricky Bromberg, who died earlier this month.
MajorsSep 16, 2026
Midas Chain Releases ‘House of Midas’ Bridal CatalogThe new bridal catalog features the latest jewelry collections and designs from timeless classics to modern silhouettes.
EditorsSep 15, 2026
2026 Emmys Jewelry: An Either/Or Proposition Stars wore either a necklace or earrings at 78th Primetime Emmy Awards but rarely both, Natalie Francisco notes.
ColumnistsSep 15, 2026
The Levels Your Website Must Clear Before AI Recommends YouJennifer Shaheen compares this new era of AI-powered SEO to a video game: your website must clear one level before advancing to the next.
IndependentsSep 15, 2026
Armadani Launches Retail Support Program for Holiday SeasonThe program highlights “Made in Italy” fine jewelry with digital merchandising, sales education, and local marketing support.
