EditorsJul 29, 2026
Q&A: The Past and Future of Angola’s Diamond Industry Endiama Commercial Director Elton Escrivão knows people have a lot of misperceptions about Angola. He wants to change that.
TrendsDec 06, 2017
Fine Jewelry Trend: Bezel, Set, Go!
Designers are moving away from intricate, highly wrought settings and toward the bold, minimalist appeal of bezels.
Jemma Wynne’s “Prive Luxe Slider” bracelet in 18-karat yellow gold with emeralds and diamonds ($9,555)
New York--Fine jewelry has recently taken a minimalist turn, with many designers opting for bold, clean looks over intricate, highly wrought styles.
Bezel settings perfectly achieve an impactful but minimal feel, showcasing diamonds and gemstones the way a frame holds a painting. The setting is being employed across all fashion jewelry categories and even in engagement rings as the halo setting begins to wane in popularity.
“I’ve been using bezel settings since I started making jewelry over 20 years ago,” said designer Zoe Chicco, who produces all of her pieces in-house at her Los Angeles facility. “It was the first setting I ever used in my designs.
“Even my wedding ring, which is a simple bezel-set radiant-cut diamond, was based on one of the first pieces I ever made. I love the solid feel of the stones being enclosed in the metal and it feels very modern, clean and compliments my aesthetic. Recently, I have started using prong settings as well, but bezels still are and will always be my favorite way to set stones.”
While many brands are setting exquisite and rare gems in bezels, the setting can also up the wow factor for a simple or small stone. Kismet by Milka has taken to creating bezel-set tennis bracelets and even a bezel-set tennis-style choker.
"I like using a bezel setting in our collections as I think it gives a stronger feeling and texture to pieces that would otherwise be considered classics,” said Kismet by Milka designer Milka Karaağaçlı. “In our ‘Rainbow collection,’ the bezel setting made each colorway stand out more than usual when next to another color.”
Anita Ko’s 18-karat yellow gold bezel pendant with 0.97-carat blue heart-shaped sapphire ($3,375)
AnitaKo.com
AnitaKo.com
Azlee’s 18-karat yellow gold custom engagement ring with 2.04-carat, F+ color shield-shaped diamond (price available upon request)
AzleeJewelry.com
AzleeJewelry.com
Dezso’s 18-karat rose gold earrings with carved rhodolite and diamonds ($2,200)
TwistOnline.com
TwistOnline.com
Diana Mitchell’s 18-karat rose gold stud earrings with champagne diamonds totaling 0.3 carats ($1,250)
DianaMitchellJewelry.com
DianaMitchellJewelry.com
EF Collection’s 14-karat yellow gold ear climber set with 10 diamonds totaling 0.7 carats ($985)
EFCollection.com
EFCollection.com
Elena Votsi’s 18-karat yellow gold ring with Gemfields emeralds, ruby, amethyst and garnets ($7,900)
ElenaVotsi.com
ElenaVotsi.com
Ilana Ariel’s 14-karat white gold “Stepping Stone Flower” earrings with white diamonds ($11,520)
IlanaArielCollections.com
IlanaArielCollections.com
Irene Neuwirth’s 18-karat rose gold ring with 3 mm Rose of France amethysts (price available upon request)
IreneNeuwirth.com
IreneNeuwirth.com
Jemma Wynne’s “Prive Luxe Slider” bracelet in 18-karat yellow gold with emeralds and diamonds ($9,555)
JemmaWynne.com
JemmaWynne.com
Jennifer Meyer’s 18-karat yellow gold and three-diamond drop earrings ($6,950)
Net-A-Porter.com
Net-A-Porter.com
Jillian Abboud
JillianAbboud.com' width='1104' presentation='gallery'>
Kismet by Milka’s 14-karat rose gold and blue sapphire bracelet ($1,720)
KismetByMilka.com
KismetByMilka.com
Marian Maurer 18-karat recycled yellow gold “Porch” band with multi-hued Montana sapphires ($4,350)
Museum of Arts and Design in New York City
Museum of Arts and Design in New York City
Retrouvaí’s 14-karat yellow gold multicolor tourmaline “Gypsy" earrings ($4,990)
Ylang23.com
Ylang23.com
Sarah Hendler’s 18-karat yellow gold one-of-a-kind rhodolite and iolite ring ($9,260) BergdorfGoodman.com
Sophie Bille Brahe’s “Flacon de Neige” 18-karat yellow gold single earring with diamonds ($2,240)
Dover Street Market New York
Dover Street Market New York
Tate’s 18-karat yellow gold and diamond earrings ($690)
TateJewels.com
TateJewels.com
Zoe Chicco’s 14-karat yellow gold and diamond ring ($1,695)
ZoeChicco.com
ZoeChicco.com
Several designers mentioned that a bezel can give an old-fashioned item a sense of modernity.
Ilana Sarna of brand Ilana Ariel commented: “Some of my designs, especially from the ‘Stepping Stone’ collection, have an antique or retro vibe. By using bezel settings as opposed to prongs, I tried to make the pieces feel more modern. I love melding different design elements because it yields classic but very wearable jewelry.”
The setting can also be employed in a more organic manner.
Designer Marian Maurer’s bezel-set eternity bands embody a tactile, natural feel and are a brand signature, highlighting both diamonds and colored gemstones.
“I have always bezel set our stones because of my love of gold (and) feeling the sculptural aspects of the metal surrounding the gems and for practical reasons,” Maurer explained.
“It (also) protects the stone from damage and allows for everyday wear of the piece,” she added.
Bezel settings are less precious and more bold than other setting styles not just in appearance, but in function as well, as Maurer pointed out. They provide a stable base for a stone, shielding its edges.
The trade-off is, of-course, seeing less of a stone and more of the metal surrounding it. But this isn’t a problem for contemporary designers, who are overwhelmingly favoring yellow gold for now.
“A bezel setting allows for more gold to be seen,” said Diana Mitchell, designer of the eponymous line, “and I love 18-karat gold, so the more, the better.”
Bezel settings are less precious and more bold than other setting styles not just in appearance, but in function as well, as Maurer pointed out. They provide a stable base for a stone, shielding its edges.
The trade-off is, of-course, seeing less of a stone and more of the metal surrounding it. But this isn’t a problem for contemporary designers, who are overwhelmingly favoring yellow gold for now.
“A bezel setting allows for more gold to be seen,” said Diana Mitchell, designer of the eponymous line, “and I love 18-karat gold, so the more, the better.”
More on Trends
The Latest
MajorsJul 29, 2026
Kevin Reilly Retires After 39 Years in the Jewelry Industry Reilly has been with PGI USA for the last 20 years, leading partnership development and professional education.
FinancialsJul 29, 2026
Kering’s H1 Jewelry Sales Up 14%Boucheron reached record sales while Pomellato found success in its signature collections.
Brought to you by
Why More Jewelry Retailers Are Hosting Turnkey Estate Buying EventsRetailers are seeking new ways to attract customers, increase traffic, and create revenue – Estate buying events are a popular solution.
Events & AwardsJul 29, 2026
Lauren Harwell Godfrey Designs a Flag for ArkansasShe was one of more than 120 American designers who created flags for the “United Flags of Fashion” project led by CFDA and Vogue.
Weekly QuizJul 23, 2026
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
ColumnistsJul 28, 2026
Peter Smith: Why Your Job Postings May Be Working Against You Smith reveals the method The Retail Smiths use to help retailers and vendors write better job postings.
FinancialsJul 28, 2026
Tiffany & Co., Bulgari Lead the Way for LVMH in H1LVMH’s jewelry and watch brands outperformed the company’s other divisions in an environment the company described as “disrupted.”
Brought to you by
Wedding Band Trends 2026: Personalization Takes Center StageColored gemstones, artisan finishes, mixed metals, and meaningful details are shaping demand in bridal jewelry.
CollectionsJul 28, 2026
Lionheart’s New Collection Unites Spiritual Iconography“Sacred Heart” features symbols like crosses, angel wings, the Star of David, and the evil eye as a representation of coexistence.
Events & AwardsJul 28, 2026
The Edge Funding 2 Scholarships Via 24 Karat Club SEUS The scholarships will go to early-career professionals looking to study gemology, bench work and jewelry design, or store operations.
SurveysJul 27, 2026
Jewelry Leads Luxury Market Amid Stabilization, Bain SaysBain & Company delved into the trends shaping the luxury market, the impact of AI, and more in its recent study.
SourcingJul 27, 2026
‘Rubies’ Goes on Display at Harvard MuseumThe exhibition reveals the gemology, geology, and cultural history of the iconic red gemstone.
Policies & IssuesJul 24, 2026
New Trump Tariffs: What They Mean for Jewelry The new sweeping slate of tariffs impacts 60 countries, including India, China, Thailand, Hong Kong, and the United Arab Emirates.
PodcastsJul 23, 2026
Episode 7: Reinhold Jewelers on the Power of RelationshipsMildred Marcano Abrams and Yael Reinhold join the podcast to talk community connections, holiday plans, and preserving Reinhold’s legacy.
SourcingJul 23, 2026
De Beers’ Production Jumps 88 Percent in Q2 Production also was up in the first half of 2026 but is expected to “substantially” decrease in H2 as two key mines undergo maintenance.
CollectionsJul 23, 2026
Silvia Furmanovich’s New Collection Travels Back to the 1920s“Art Deco” fuses ancestral techniques, rare materials, and modern perspectives as a tribute to the optimism and curiosity of the movement.
IndependentsJul 23, 2026
Sissy's Log Cabin Opens Casino StoreThe jeweler’s newest store is inside Arkansas’ Saracen Casino Resort.
WatchesJul 23, 2026
Movado Inks Licensing Deal With Kate Spade New YorkThe watch company will design, manufacture, and distribute Kate Spade New York watches.
Policies & IssuesJul 22, 2026
Trump to Put 50% Tariff on Canadian Goods The higher tax is set to go into effect in August and will apply to loose polished diamonds as well as precious and base metals jewelry.
CollectionsJul 22, 2026
Monica Rich Kosann’s High Jewelry Is FruitfulThe “Enchanted Garden” series features a cherry, lemon, and pear that each hold a little secret inside.
IndependentsJul 22, 2026
Liljenquist Beckstead Opens Rolex New BoutiqueIt’s located in Tysons Galleria, an upscale shopping center in the Washington, D.C., metro area.
Events & AwardsJul 22, 2026
NY Now Returns in August Under New OwnershipThe show, recently acquired by Rockview Management Group, will be held at New York City’s Javits Center from Aug. 2-4.
ColumnistsJul 21, 2026
Sherry Smith: Shattering the Illusion of the ‘Either/Or’ Diamond MarketSmith offers retailers guidance on creating an environment where natural and lab-grown diamonds can both thrive.
Events & AwardsJul 21, 2026
Apollo Funds Completes Emerald AcquisitionFormer Emerald President and CEO Hervé Sedky has transitioned to the role of senior advisor.
CollectionsJul 21, 2026
Graff’s New Butterfly High Jewelry Brooches MetamorphosizeThe 12-piece capsule collection transforms from brooches to pendants.
SourcingJul 21, 2026
Anglo Reportedly Selects Gareth Penny’s Consortium as Top Bidder for De BeersA Botswana government official told lawmakers Anglo has selected The Global Diamond Consortium, an entity chaired by Penny, to buy De Beers.
Policies & IssuesJul 20, 2026
Tariffs on Brazil to Increase But Rough Gemstones ExemptThe new tariff, imposed after a Trump administration study, is 25 percent and will stack on top of existing tariffs.
