CollectionsAug 28, 2026
Dolly Parton Would Have Loved This Butterfly Necklace This Buddha Mama butterfly is our Piece of the Week honoring the legend, who embraced the beautiful insect as her symbol.
TrendsDec 06, 2017
Fine Jewelry Trend: Bezel, Set, Go!
Designers are moving away from intricate, highly wrought settings and toward the bold, minimalist appeal of bezels.
Jemma Wynne’s “Prive Luxe Slider” bracelet in 18-karat yellow gold with emeralds and diamonds ($9,555)
New York--Fine jewelry has recently taken a minimalist turn, with many designers opting for bold, clean looks over intricate, highly wrought styles.
Bezel settings perfectly achieve an impactful but minimal feel, showcasing diamonds and gemstones the way a frame holds a painting. The setting is being employed across all fashion jewelry categories and even in engagement rings as the halo setting begins to wane in popularity.
“I’ve been using bezel settings since I started making jewelry over 20 years ago,” said designer Zoe Chicco, who produces all of her pieces in-house at her Los Angeles facility. “It was the first setting I ever used in my designs.
“Even my wedding ring, which is a simple bezel-set radiant-cut diamond, was based on one of the first pieces I ever made. I love the solid feel of the stones being enclosed in the metal and it feels very modern, clean and compliments my aesthetic. Recently, I have started using prong settings as well, but bezels still are and will always be my favorite way to set stones.”
While many brands are setting exquisite and rare gems in bezels, the setting can also up the wow factor for a simple or small stone. Kismet by Milka has taken to creating bezel-set tennis bracelets and even a bezel-set tennis-style choker.
"I like using a bezel setting in our collections as I think it gives a stronger feeling and texture to pieces that would otherwise be considered classics,” said Kismet by Milka designer Milka Karaağaçlı. “In our ‘Rainbow collection,’ the bezel setting made each colorway stand out more than usual when next to another color.”
Anita Ko’s 18-karat yellow gold bezel pendant with 0.97-carat blue heart-shaped sapphire ($3,375)
AnitaKo.com
AnitaKo.com
Azlee’s 18-karat yellow gold custom engagement ring with 2.04-carat, F+ color shield-shaped diamond (price available upon request)
AzleeJewelry.com
AzleeJewelry.com
Dezso’s 18-karat rose gold earrings with carved rhodolite and diamonds ($2,200)
TwistOnline.com
TwistOnline.com
Diana Mitchell’s 18-karat rose gold stud earrings with champagne diamonds totaling 0.3 carats ($1,250)
DianaMitchellJewelry.com
DianaMitchellJewelry.com
EF Collection’s 14-karat yellow gold ear climber set with 10 diamonds totaling 0.7 carats ($985)
EFCollection.com
EFCollection.com
Elena Votsi’s 18-karat yellow gold ring with Gemfields emeralds, ruby, amethyst and garnets ($7,900)
ElenaVotsi.com
ElenaVotsi.com
Ilana Ariel’s 14-karat white gold “Stepping Stone Flower” earrings with white diamonds ($11,520)
IlanaArielCollections.com
IlanaArielCollections.com
Irene Neuwirth’s 18-karat rose gold ring with 3 mm Rose of France amethysts (price available upon request)
IreneNeuwirth.com
IreneNeuwirth.com
Jemma Wynne’s “Prive Luxe Slider” bracelet in 18-karat yellow gold with emeralds and diamonds ($9,555)
JemmaWynne.com
JemmaWynne.com
Jennifer Meyer’s 18-karat yellow gold and three-diamond drop earrings ($6,950)
Net-A-Porter.com
Net-A-Porter.com
Jillian Abboud
JillianAbboud.com' width='1104' presentation='gallery'>
Kismet by Milka’s 14-karat rose gold and blue sapphire bracelet ($1,720)
KismetByMilka.com
KismetByMilka.com
Marian Maurer 18-karat recycled yellow gold “Porch” band with multi-hued Montana sapphires ($4,350)
Museum of Arts and Design in New York City
Museum of Arts and Design in New York City
Retrouvaí’s 14-karat yellow gold multicolor tourmaline “Gypsy" earrings ($4,990)
Ylang23.com
Ylang23.com
Sarah Hendler’s 18-karat yellow gold one-of-a-kind rhodolite and iolite ring ($9,260) BergdorfGoodman.com
Sophie Bille Brahe’s “Flacon de Neige” 18-karat yellow gold single earring with diamonds ($2,240)
Dover Street Market New York
Dover Street Market New York
Tate’s 18-karat yellow gold and diamond earrings ($690)
TateJewels.com
TateJewels.com
Zoe Chicco’s 14-karat yellow gold and diamond ring ($1,695)
ZoeChicco.com
ZoeChicco.com
Several designers mentioned that a bezel can give an old-fashioned item a sense of modernity.
Ilana Sarna of brand Ilana Ariel commented: “Some of my designs, especially from the ‘Stepping Stone’ collection, have an antique or retro vibe. By using bezel settings as opposed to prongs, I tried to make the pieces feel more modern. I love melding different design elements because it yields classic but very wearable jewelry.”
The setting can also be employed in a more organic manner.
Designer Marian Maurer’s bezel-set eternity bands embody a tactile, natural feel and are a brand signature, highlighting both diamonds and colored gemstones.
“I have always bezel set our stones because of my love of gold (and) feeling the sculptural aspects of the metal surrounding the gems and for practical reasons,” Maurer explained.
Editors' Picks
Sponsored by
“It (also) protects the stone from damage and allows for everyday wear of the piece,” she added.
Bezel settings are less precious and more bold than other setting styles not just in appearance, but in function as well, as Maurer pointed out. They provide a stable base for a stone, shielding its edges.
The trade-off is, of-course, seeing less of a stone and more of the metal surrounding it. But this isn’t a problem for contemporary designers, who are overwhelmingly favoring yellow gold for now.
“A bezel setting allows for more gold to be seen,” said Diana Mitchell, designer of the eponymous line, “and I love 18-karat gold, so the more, the better.”
Bezel settings are less precious and more bold than other setting styles not just in appearance, but in function as well, as Maurer pointed out. They provide a stable base for a stone, shielding its edges.
The trade-off is, of-course, seeing less of a stone and more of the metal surrounding it. But this isn’t a problem for contemporary designers, who are overwhelmingly favoring yellow gold for now.
“A bezel setting allows for more gold to be seen,” said Diana Mitchell, designer of the eponymous line, “and I love 18-karat gold, so the more, the better.”
More on Trends
The Latest
SourcingAug 28, 2026
Gareth Penny to Give Opening Speech at CIBJO Centenary CongressThe former De Beers CEO, and perhaps its next owner, will be a featured speaker at the event, slated for Sept. 4-7 in Italy.
IndependentsAug 28, 2026
Day’s Jewelers Honored With 3 Workplace AwardsThe employee-owned jeweler was named a “Best Place to Work” in Maine, New Hampshire, and for women.
Brought to you by
Your Piece Could Be the One Editors Talk AboutSubmit your pieces for a chance to win in this year's competition.
CollectionsAug 27, 2026
Pandora Expands ‘Talisman’ Collection as Lawsuit Continues The second iteration of the jewelry collection was inspired by the zodiac and the four elements: earth, water, air and fire.
Weekly QuizAug 27, 2026
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
SourcingAug 27, 2026
OFAC Renews License Allowing Import of ‘Grandfathered’ Russian Diamonds General License 104B supersedes General License 104A, which was set to expire on Sept. 1.
CrimeAug 27, 2026
Customs Seizes Nearly 900 Pieces of Counterfeit JewelryThe package, intercepted in Indianapolis, contained fake Cartier, Tiffany & Co., and Van Cleef and Arpels jewelry.
Brought to you by
Why More Jewelry Retailers Are Hosting Turnkey Estate Buying EventsRetailers are seeking new ways to attract customers, increase traffic, and create revenue – Estate buying events are a popular solution.
IndependentsAug 27, 2026
Jessica McCormack to Open First West Coast StoreThe new location in Costa Mesa, California, marks the brand’s second store in the United States and fourth standalone location worldwide.
FinancialsAug 27, 2026
Movado’s Q2 Sales Up As Younger Consumers Take Interest in WatchesThe fashion watch category was once threatened by the Apple Watch, but consumers are now opting for new wearables, said Movado’s CEO.
SurveysAug 26, 2026
5 Jewelry Insights From The RealReal’s Resale ReportThe report delves into trending styles, the most popular jewelry brands by city, and why Belle Époque jewelry could be the next big thing.
Lab-GrownAug 26, 2026
AGTA Now Requiring Members to Call Lab-Grown Gems ‘Synthetic’The association added the requirement to its revised "Code of Ethics" and released the 17th edition of its “Gemstone Information Manual.”
SurveysAug 26, 2026
Consumer Confidence Dips in August Amid Anticipatory Anxieties Respondents were concerned about the future of the labor market and their income as well as the rising prices of gas and groceries.
Events & AwardsAug 26, 2026
Harry Winston Exhibition to Open in ShanghaiIt will explore the life of “The King of Diamonds” and showcase more than 165 creations from the brand.
CrimeAug 25, 2026
Florida Woman Scammed Out of $1.5M in Jewelry, Precious MetalsTwo suspects have been arrested in connection with the complex phone scam.
ColumnistsAug 25, 2026
Proof Before Purchase: The Gen Z Way to BuyIn her first column for National Jeweler, Jennifer Shaheen asks jewelers if they know how to connect with the next generation of consumers.
Events & AwardsAug 25, 2026
SSEF Opens 2026 Applications for Gemology Education ScholarshipsThe annual awards cover tuition for an on-site educational course at the Swiss lab, as well as flights and lodging.
EditorsAug 24, 2026
Q&A: Reeds Jewelers VP Genna Zimmer on 80 Years in BusinessThe third-generation jeweler shared how the North Carolina retailer is celebrating this milestone and the love story that started it all.
Events & AwardsAug 24, 2026
Rio Grande, MetalWerx Host Argentium Silver WorkshopThe class, led by renowned metalsmith Cynthia Eid, highlighted Argentium silver as an alternative to gold amid high prices.
Events & AwardsAug 24, 2026
JIS Miami Opens Fall 2026 RegistrationThe show is slated for Oct. 16-19 at the Miami Beach Convention Center.
CollectionsAug 24, 2026
Francesca Villa Honors Napoleon, His Empresses In New CapsuleThe “Empresses” capsule uses 19th-century medals depicting Napoleon, Joséphine, and Marie-Louise across five one-of-a-kind pieces.
SurveysAug 21, 2026
These Are 2026’s Hottest Retailers, Says NRFThe retailers at the top of the list offer affordable products and fun, discovery-fueled experiences.
WatchesAug 21, 2026
Bremont Names Former Vacheron Constantin Exec CMODaniel Bing was formerly the marketing director for the Americas at Vacheron Constantin.
CollectionsAug 21, 2026
Bijules, Kamyen Serve Up ‘Topspin’ Tennis Bracelet Ahead of US OpenIn our Piece of the Week, the designers reimagine the tennis bracelet with green enamel wrapped around a strand of “Desert Diamonds.”
PodcastsAug 20, 2026
Episode 8: Diamond Industry Update With David Bonaparte & Ronnie VanderLindenThe industry veterans join the podcast to discuss diamond marketing, the FTC Jewelry Guides, and lobbying for lower tariffs.
TechnologyAug 20, 2026
A New AI-Powered Gemstone Identification App Is HereFounder Vik Westermann said the app is a “starting point” to inspire people to work with appraisers and gem labs, not replace them.
AuctionsAug 20, 2026
Storied Unicorn Brooch Up for Auction Gallops to New Home The Verdura brooch, which belonged to the late Virginia Fortune Ryan Ogilvy, was sold to a private collector in Asia.
