Editors

The importance of being honest

EditorsOct 07, 2014

The importance of being honest

Last week another laboratory, EGL Platinum, issued a statement speaking out against the over-grading of diamonds while seeking to separate themselves from the EGL labs associated with this practice, a statement issued in the wake of the Rapaport Group’s move to quit listing diamonds graded by any EGL lab on RapNet.


EGL Platinum is not the first EGL-branded lab to speak out on this issue; EGL USA and EGL South Africa (EGL SA) issued similar statements several weeks ago when the Rapaport Group first announced its decision.

I see the labs’ point; over-grading by some shouldn’t overshadow the work of every lab with the initials EGL, and, to be fair, it seems the industry’s diamond trading platforms agree. Polygon, for example, made a decision to quit listing diamonds from EGL International but not EGL USA.

And so I called Martin Rapaport, chairman of the Rapaport Group, last week with one question on my mind: Would he consider relaxing the RapNet ban to allow for EGL reports from labs with a better track record? The short answer is no. He said consumers don’t understand the difference between the various EGL brands, and EGL labs that don’t want to be associated with over-grading need to change their names.

“If you want to be a legitimate laboratory you cannot use the same brand name” as a lab that’s over-grading, Martin Rapaport said. “Consumers … are not going to understand the difference between a good EGL and a bad EGL. Good EGLs need to change their name so they are not confused with bad EGLs.”

During the course of the conversation, I asked Rapaport about a rumor I’d heard recently that his group plans to issue grading reports in the near future. I mentioned that some had speculated that, perhaps, this was part of the reason for his decision to quit listing all EGL-graded diamonds.

He categorically denied that this has anything to do with why he chose to stop listing all EGL-graded diamonds. He did it to make a statement about over-grading and to separate his marketplace from marketplaces in which diamonds are misrepresented.  “I am not worried about what people say (about my intentions),” he told me. “I am worried our industry is supporting a bunch of liars and cheaters who defraud consumers. This industry isn’t fighting against people who are lying to consumers.”

(As for the grading report rumors, he said Rapaport Group, which has offered a range of gemological services since 2007 but never grading reports, likely will begin issuing grading reports for investment-grade diamonds only next year, but offered little detail on the program. “We will give free and fair announcement before we do something,” he said.)

During our conversation last week, Rapaport also told me that he thinks I, along with the rest of the trade press and industry organizations like the WFDB, JA, AGS and JVC, need to quit being neutral on the topic of over-graded diamonds and speak out against labs that are “lying to consumers.”

So, in writing this today, I would like to take a cue from a father of many (Martin Rapaport) and pass along a little (more) wisdom from a dad to two, my own father. It is one of my favorites from him, along with “do what you love and the money will come.”

His advice: those who are honest always come out ahead.

If you own a store, don’t sell diamonds to your customers with grading reports from any lab that you feel overstates the quality of the stones they grade, even if the store, or stores, down the street are doing it. A recent InStore column by Terry Chandler (who also calls upon a parent’s wisdom) advises the same.

In the short term, sales might be lost but, in the long term, larger headaches will be avoided. Case in point, the current consumer-brought lawsuits against Genesis Diamonds in Tennessee. Win or lose, do you really want to spend your store’s time and resources defending yourself in court?

You don’t have to take just my word for it. Listen to the advice of a fellow jeweler, Tom Daube, owner of Washington Diamond in Falls Church, Va.

Long before the current furor erupted, Daube added a page to his website explaining to customers why he has opted not to sell diamonds graded by any EGL lab. This page, he told me, has been up for nearly 10 years now.

When I found the web page, I called Daube to speak with him about his stance on EGL. One of my main questions was, has he lost sales to jewelers who sell over-graded diamonds? The answer was yes, but, “We have a very highly educated clientele and they respect our ethics,” Daube told me.

And, perhaps more importantly, “I sleep well at night,” he says. “I know I’ve done the right thing for my customers.”
Michelle Graffis the editor-in-chief at National Jeweler, directing the publication’s coverage both online and in print.

The Latest

2025 National Jeweler Retailer Hall of Fame inductees
Events & AwardsJun 06, 2025
Here Are the 2025 Retailer Hall of Fame Inductees

This year’s honorees include a Midwest retailer and two multi-store independents, one in New York and the other in New England.

Harwell Godfrey Granny Square Eleanor Necklace
CollectionsJun 06, 2025
Piece of the Week: Harwell Godfrey’s ‘Granny Squares Eleanor’ Necklace

As an homage to iconic crochet blankets, the necklace features the nostalgic motif through a kaleidoscope of cabochon-cut stones.

 Laura Gallon Joaillerie “Dynasty” ring, Bijules “Compass” bolo tie, Löf “The Orbitalis” ring
Events & AwardsJun 05, 2025
The 12 Fresh Faces in Couture’s Design Atelier

Discover the dozen up-and-coming brands exhibiting in the Design Atelier for the first time.

DCA-student-cert-NJ1872x1052-2.png
Brought to you by
The True Power Behind the Counter: Why Sales Associates Are the Heart of the Jewelry Business

When investing in your jewelry business, it's important not to overlook the most crucial element of success: the sales associates.

Jack Abraham The Royal Ruby Collection
SourcingJun 05, 2025
A Rare Suite of Rubies Has Arrived in Las Vegas

The “Royal Ruby” Collection is a quintet of untreated rubies curated by collector Jack Abraham.

Weekly QuizJun 05, 2025
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Daymond John
Events & AwardsJun 05, 2025
Daymond John to Give Keynote at JCK Las Vegas

The entrepreneur and “Shark Tank” star will share his top tips for success.

Vaishali Banerjee and Pallavi Sharma
MajorsJun 05, 2025
Platinum Guild International Updates Leadership Team

Two existing executives have been given new roles.

Article Image 1.png
Brought to you by
Clienteling Isn’t a Buzzword. It’s an Essential Business Model.

More shoppers are walking out without buying. Here’s how smart jewelers can bring them back—and the tool they need to do it right.

Meredith Tiderington
Events & AwardsJun 05, 2025
Zillion Announces 'Women in STEM' Scholarship Recipient

Meredith Tiderington, an electrical engineering student, was selected for the award.

The Gemological Institute of America’s logo
Lab-GrownJun 04, 2025
GIA Reverting to More General Terminology for Lab-Grown Diamonds

It will quit assigning the stones specific color and clarity grades in favor of applying “new descriptive terminology.”

Exterior of the Venetian and the Las Vegas Sphere
Events & AwardsJun 04, 2025
As JCK Talks Returns, Don’t Miss These 12 Sessions

From design trends to sustainability, here’s a roundup of can’t-miss education sessions at JCK Las Vegas.

JCK show
CrimeJun 04, 2025
10 Safety Tips for the Las Vegas Shows

The Jewelers’ Security Alliance offers advice for those attending the annual trade shows.

Amy Curran
MajorsJun 04, 2025
Amy Curran Promoted at Hill & Co.

Her new role is director of strategic initiatives.

The eight rings in Viviana Langhoff’s AU79 jewelry collection
CollectionsJun 03, 2025
In Her Latest Collection, Viviana Langhoff Is Leaning Into Gold

The designer is embracing bold pieces with weight to them in “AU79,” a collection she celebrated with a creative launch party.

Gold and diamond bangles on a pair of jeans
FinancialsJun 03, 2025
Signet Jewelers Sees Turnaround in Q1 With Sales Ticking Up 2%

On an earnings call, CEO J.K. Symancyk discussed what’s working for the company and how it’s preparing for the potential impact of tariffs.

Woman’s hand holding shopping bags
SurveysJun 03, 2025
Consumer Confidence Improves in May

The index partially rebounded after months of decline, due in part to the U.S.-China deal to temporarily reduce import tariffs.

Dakota Johnson as Roberto Coin Brand Ambassador
CollectionsJun 03, 2025
Dakota Johnson Is Roberto Coin’s New Brand Ambassador

The actress stars in the latest campaign set in Venice, Italy, and is set to participate in other creative initiatives for the jeweler.

Mason Kay Jade necklace
GradingJun 03, 2025
Mason-Kay Jade Adds ‘Fei Cui’ to Jade Reports

The company has joined other labs, including GIA and Lotus Gemology, in adopting the Chinese term for "jadeite jade."

Gemfields ruby
SourcingJun 02, 2025
Gemfields’ June Auction to Include 36-Carat Ruby

The large stone will be offered at its June sale along with a selection of secondary-type rubies from a new area of the Montepuez mine.

Adobe Stock image of skyline of Bangkok, Thailand
GradingJun 02, 2025
GSI Opens New Lab in Thailand

Located in Bangkok, the laboratory is Gemological Science International’s 14th location worldwide.

Seaman Schepps pearl earrings
TrendsJun 02, 2025
Amanda’s Style File: Three Gems for June

Those born in June have a myriad of options for their birthstone jewelry.

David Allouche
SourcingJun 02, 2025
David Allouche Joins Grandview Klein Diamonds

The diamond industry veteran has been named its senior sales executive.

Movado Connect 2.0 watches
FinancialsMay 30, 2025
Movado’s Q1 Sales Slip Amid ‘Challenging’ Retail Environment

The company plans to raise the prices of select watches to offset the impact of tariffs.

Zoë Chicco Bracelets
Policies & IssuesMay 30, 2025
Tariffs & Designers: Navigating Pricing in an Unstable Environment

Between tariffs and the sky-high cost of gold, designers enter this year’s Las Vegas shows with a lot of questions and few answers.

Renato Cipullo Hematite Blaze Necklace
CollectionsMay 30, 2025
Piece of the Week: Renato Cipullo’s ‘Hematite Blaze’ Necklace

Designed by founder Renato and his daughter Serena Cipullo, it showcases a flame motif representing unity and the power of gathering.

Stock image of shipping containers
Policies & IssuesMay 30, 2025
Trade Court Declares Trump’s Tariffs Invalid

However, the tariffs remain in effect in the short term, as an appeals court has stayed the U.S. Court of International Trade’s decision.

Britney Spears
CollectionsMay 29, 2025
Britney Spears Files Trademark for New Jewelry Line

The pop icon is one step closer to launching her “B Tiny” jewelry collection, a collection she first began posting about last fall.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy