Editors

The importance of being honest

EditorsOct 07, 2014

The importance of being honest

Last week another laboratory, EGL Platinum, issued a statement speaking out against the over-grading of diamonds while seeking to separate themselves from the EGL labs associated with this practice, a statement issued in the wake of the Rapaport Group’s move to quit listing diamonds graded by any EGL lab on RapNet.


EGL Platinum is not the first EGL-branded lab to speak out on this issue; EGL USA and EGL South Africa (EGL SA) issued similar statements several weeks ago when the Rapaport Group first announced its decision.

I see the labs’ point; over-grading by some shouldn’t overshadow the work of every lab with the initials EGL, and, to be fair, it seems the industry’s diamond trading platforms agree. Polygon, for example, made a decision to quit listing diamonds from EGL International but not EGL USA.

And so I called Martin Rapaport, chairman of the Rapaport Group, last week with one question on my mind: Would he consider relaxing the RapNet ban to allow for EGL reports from labs with a better track record? The short answer is no. He said consumers don’t understand the difference between the various EGL brands, and EGL labs that don’t want to be associated with over-grading need to change their names.

“If you want to be a legitimate laboratory you cannot use the same brand name” as a lab that’s over-grading, Martin Rapaport said. “Consumers … are not going to understand the difference between a good EGL and a bad EGL. Good EGLs need to change their name so they are not confused with bad EGLs.”

During the course of the conversation, I asked Rapaport about a rumor I’d heard recently that his group plans to issue grading reports in the near future. I mentioned that some had speculated that, perhaps, this was part of the reason for his decision to quit listing all EGL-graded diamonds.

He categorically denied that this has anything to do with why he chose to stop listing all EGL-graded diamonds. He did it to make a statement about over-grading and to separate his marketplace from marketplaces in which diamonds are misrepresented.  “I am not worried about what people say (about my intentions),” he told me. “I am worried our industry is supporting a bunch of liars and cheaters who defraud consumers. This industry isn’t fighting against people who are lying to consumers.”

(As for the grading report rumors, he said Rapaport Group, which has offered a range of gemological services since 2007 but never grading reports, likely will begin issuing grading reports for investment-grade diamonds only next year, but offered little detail on the program. “We will give free and fair announcement before we do something,” he said.)

During our conversation last week, Rapaport also told me that he thinks I, along with the rest of the trade press and industry organizations like the WFDB, JA, AGS and JVC, need to quit being neutral on the topic of over-graded diamonds and speak out against labs that are “lying to consumers.”

So, in writing this today, I would like to take a cue from a father of many (Martin Rapaport) and pass along a little (more) wisdom from a dad to two, my own father. It is one of my favorites from him, along with “do what you love and the money will come.”

His advice: those who are honest always come out ahead.

If you own a store, don’t sell diamonds to your customers with grading reports from any lab that you feel overstates the quality of the stones they grade, even if the store, or stores, down the street are doing it. A recent InStore column by Terry Chandler (who also calls upon a parent’s wisdom) advises the same.

In the short term, sales might be lost but, in the long term, larger headaches will be avoided. Case in point, the current consumer-brought lawsuits against Genesis Diamonds in Tennessee. Win or lose, do you really want to spend your store’s time and resources defending yourself in court?

You don’t have to take just my word for it. Listen to the advice of a fellow jeweler, Tom Daube, owner of Washington Diamond in Falls Church, Va.

Long before the current furor erupted, Daube added a page to his website explaining to customers why he has opted not to sell diamonds graded by any EGL lab. This page, he told me, has been up for nearly 10 years now.

When I found the web page, I called Daube to speak with him about his stance on EGL. One of my main questions was, has he lost sales to jewelers who sell over-graded diamonds? The answer was yes, but, “We have a very highly educated clientele and they respect our ethics,” Daube told me.

And, perhaps more importantly, “I sleep well at night,” he says. “I know I’ve done the right thing for my customers.”
Michelle Graffis the editor-in-chief at National Jeweler, directing the publication’s coverage both online and in print.

The Latest

Sean Gilbertson
SourcingJul 06, 2026
Gemfields CEO Sean Gilbertson Steps Down

After eight years, Gilbertson is leaving his post at the mining company, which is currently facing a slew of operational challenges.

Bachendorf’s New Dallas Location Exterior Rendering
IndependentsJul 06, 2026
Bachendorf’s To Open Fifth Store In Dallas

The new location is set to open this winter, featuring the retailer’s first rotating jewelry designer residency.

Jung Kook for Graff
MajorsJul 06, 2026
Graff Names BTS Star Jung Kook as New Ambassador

The pop artist appears in the latest campaign for the “Laurence Graff Signature” collection.

Brought-To-By-Article-Top-Image.jpg
Brought to you by
Wedding Band Trends 2026: Personalization Takes Center Stage

Colored gemstones, artisan finishes, mixed metals, and meaningful details are shaping demand in bridal jewelry.

Pandora pearl jewelry campaign imagery
CollectionsJul 06, 2026
Pandora’s New Baroque Pearl Collection Is a Whimsical ‘Wonder’

One-of-a-kind pearls take the shape of ice cream cones, frogs, submarines, and other imaginative charms.

Weekly QuizJul 01, 2026
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
London Diamond Bourse President Charlotte Rose
SourcingJul 02, 2026
London Diamond Bourse Elects First Female President

Charlotte Rose said her election is “a sign that this is an industry capable of change.”

Bracelets_1872_1052.jpg
Supplier BulletinJul 02, 2026
Elevating Retail Showcases with Today's Necklace & Bracelet Trends

Sponsored by Rio Grande Jewelry Supply

DCA-NJ-article-1872x1052-060826.jpg
Brought to you by
Building the Future of Jewelry Retail: DCA Expands Education, Leadership Development, and Workforce Solutions

DCA is preparing the next generation of professionals by supporting workforce development, leadership growth, and career advancement.

Oscar Heyman Flag Brooch
TrendsJul 02, 2026
Oscar Heyman’s Flag Brooch Celebrates America

The American jewelry house, founded by Latvian immigrants, has been creating American flag brooches since 1917.

D. Geller & Son store mural
IndependentsJul 02, 2026
D. Geller & Son Partners with KSU Art Students on Store Mural

The artwork celebrates the Atlanta jeweler’s legacy and symbolizes its commitment to supporting local artists and its community.

Hand taking jewelry out of jewelry box
Events & AwardsJul 02, 2026
Stratus Estate Buyers Offers Jewelers Turnkey Buying Events

Its team can evaluate jewelry and watches, as well as luxury handbags, artwork, and collectibles.

Hand holding a gas pump
SurveysJul 01, 2026
Consumer Confidence Ticks Up in June

Falling oil prices were a factor in the slight month-over-month improvement.

Rio Grande Millgrain Wedding band and Round Diamond Engagement Ring
CollectionsJul 01, 2026
Rio Grande Launches First Finished Bridal Collection

The new offering comprises more than 120 bridal and engagement ring styles with natural and lab-grown diamonds.

Rockefeller Center Rink Rolex Clock
WatchesJul 01, 2026
Rolex Unveils Clock at Rockefeller Center

The clock is part of the celebration for the soon-to-open Rolex headquarters on New York City’s Fifth Avenue.

Kristen Cannon
IndependentsJul 01, 2026
Kristen Cannon of Valobra Master Jewelers Dies at 49

The public relations professional is remembered for her benevolent generosity and unwavering commitment to those around her.

G Shock Pokemon watch in Pokeball
WatchesJun 30, 2026
Pokémon Fans Will Want to Catch This New G-Shock Watch

The new watch commemorates Pokémon’s 30th anniversary.

Saks Fifth Avenue door sign
MajorsJun 30, 2026
Saks Global Emerges From Bankruptcy With New Name

The luxury retailer is now called Exemplar Luxury Group.

Jade Ruzzo Lady Collection Compact Mirror Necklace
CollectionsJun 30, 2026
Jade Ruzzo’s New Collection Embodies the Art of Being a Lady

The “Lady” collection is a new take on old beauty standards with gemstone-adorned hair pins and combs, a compact mirror necklace, and more.

Blue Nile Montana sapphire jewelry
SourcingJun 30, 2026
Blue Nile Introduces Montana Sapphire Collection

The new line is included in the e-tailer’s curation of jewelry celebrating America’s 250th anniversary.

American Gem Society
GradingJun 30, 2026
AGS Opens 2026 Recertification Exam

All active members who earned their credential or designation before Dec. 1, 2025, are required to recertify.

Briony Raymond Carousel Collection Campaign Imagery
CollectionsJun 29, 2026
Briony Raymond’s New Collection Is a ‘Carousel’ of Hard Stones

The new jewelry collection uses a colorful palette of onyx, malachite, tiger’s eye, mother-of-pearl, lapis, turquoise, and coral.

Lee Michaels Fine Jewelry Ridgeland Mississippi exterior
IndependentsJun 29, 2026
Look Inside Lee Michaels’ Revamped Mississippi Flagship

Lee Michaels Fine Jewelry is celebrating 30 years in the Ridgeland, Mississippi community.

Sean Milliner
GradingJun 29, 2026
National Rarities Announces New Gemology Manager

Sean Milliner has joined the company.

GIA London Canary Wharf campus
GradingJun 29, 2026
GIA to Open New London Campus

Classes will begin in August at GIA’s new Canary Wharf location.

Hogback diamond ring
AuctionsJun 26, 2026
‘Hogback’ Diamond Ring Finds a New Home

A ring set with “hogback” diamonds, an early stone cut dating to around the 16th century, sold for more than $20,000 at a U.K. auction.

Kris Averi Rainbow Prism Thorn Ring
CollectionsJun 26, 2026
Strength Is Sharpened Into Beauty in Kris Averi’s ‘Prism Thorn’ Ring

The rainbow version of the ring, our Piece of the Week, features angel-cut, octahedral lab-grown sapphires designed to be worn as armor.

A tray of Rembrandt charms
MajorsJun 26, 2026
Rembrandt Charms Debuts ‘Charms That Give Back’

The new initiative donates a portion of the proceeds from select charms to charitable causes.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy