Editors

The importance of being honest

EditorsOct 07, 2014

The importance of being honest

Last week another laboratory, EGL Platinum, issued a statement speaking out against the over-grading of diamonds while seeking to separate themselves from the EGL labs associated with this practice, a statement issued in the wake of the Rapaport Group’s move to quit listing diamonds graded by any EGL lab on RapNet.


EGL Platinum is not the first EGL-branded lab to speak out on this issue; EGL USA and EGL South Africa (EGL SA) issued similar statements several weeks ago when the Rapaport Group first announced its decision.

I see the labs’ point; over-grading by some shouldn’t overshadow the work of every lab with the initials EGL, and, to be fair, it seems the industry’s diamond trading platforms agree. Polygon, for example, made a decision to quit listing diamonds from EGL International but not EGL USA.

And so I called Martin Rapaport, chairman of the Rapaport Group, last week with one question on my mind: Would he consider relaxing the RapNet ban to allow for EGL reports from labs with a better track record? The short answer is no. He said consumers don’t understand the difference between the various EGL brands, and EGL labs that don’t want to be associated with over-grading need to change their names.

“If you want to be a legitimate laboratory you cannot use the same brand name” as a lab that’s over-grading, Martin Rapaport said. “Consumers … are not going to understand the difference between a good EGL and a bad EGL. Good EGLs need to change their name so they are not confused with bad EGLs.”

During the course of the conversation, I asked Rapaport about a rumor I’d heard recently that his group plans to issue grading reports in the near future. I mentioned that some had speculated that, perhaps, this was part of the reason for his decision to quit listing all EGL-graded diamonds.

He categorically denied that this has anything to do with why he chose to stop listing all EGL-graded diamonds. He did it to make a statement about over-grading and to separate his marketplace from marketplaces in which diamonds are misrepresented.  “I am not worried about what people say (about my intentions),” he told me. “I am worried our industry is supporting a bunch of liars and cheaters who defraud consumers. This industry isn’t fighting against people who are lying to consumers.”

(As for the grading report rumors, he said Rapaport Group, which has offered a range of gemological services since 2007 but never grading reports, likely will begin issuing grading reports for investment-grade diamonds only next year, but offered little detail on the program. “We will give free and fair announcement before we do something,” he said.)

During our conversation last week, Rapaport also told me that he thinks I, along with the rest of the trade press and industry organizations like the WFDB, JA, AGS and JVC, need to quit being neutral on the topic of over-graded diamonds and speak out against labs that are “lying to consumers.”

So, in writing this today, I would like to take a cue from a father of many (Martin Rapaport) and pass along a little (more) wisdom from a dad to two, my own father. It is one of my favorites from him, along with “do what you love and the money will come.”

His advice: those who are honest always come out ahead.

If you own a store, don’t sell diamonds to your customers with grading reports from any lab that you feel overstates the quality of the stones they grade, even if the store, or stores, down the street are doing it. A recent InStore column by Terry Chandler (who also calls upon a parent’s wisdom) advises the same.

In the short term, sales might be lost but, in the long term, larger headaches will be avoided. Case in point, the current consumer-brought lawsuits against Genesis Diamonds in Tennessee. Win or lose, do you really want to spend your store’s time and resources defending yourself in court?

You don’t have to take just my word for it. Listen to the advice of a fellow jeweler, Tom Daube, owner of Washington Diamond in Falls Church, Va.

Long before the current furor erupted, Daube added a page to his website explaining to customers why he has opted not to sell diamonds graded by any EGL lab. This page, he told me, has been up for nearly 10 years now.

When I found the web page, I called Daube to speak with him about his stance on EGL. One of my main questions was, has he lost sales to jewelers who sell over-graded diamonds? The answer was yes, but, “We have a very highly educated clientele and they respect our ethics,” Daube told me.

And, perhaps more importantly, “I sleep well at night,” he says. “I know I’ve done the right thing for my customers.”
Michelle Graffis the editor-in-chief at National Jeweler, directing the publication’s coverage both online and in print.

The Latest

Fourteen August Irene mom ring
SurveysApr 24, 2026
Mother’s Day 2026 Jewelry Spending to Top $7B, NRF Says

NRF’s annual survey found that 45 percent of consumers plan to purchase jewelry for a loved one this Mother’s Day.

TwentyFour Vault Locket
TechnologyApr 24, 2026
TwentyFour’s Digital-Age Locket Is a Virtual Vault

The “Vault” charm, our Piece of the Week, expands on the memories that can be stored in a locket by connecting to your phone.

Hamptons Jewelry Show exhibitors Maison Mèrenor, Jochen Leën, Studio Javo
Events & AwardsApr 24, 2026
Hamptons Jewelry Show to Return in July

The open-to-the-public luxury jewelry and timepiece show, in its second year, is slated for July 23-26.

Antique Jewelry & Watch Show
Brought to you by
Discover Timeless Treasures: A Showcase of Antique Jewelry & Timepieces in Las Vegas

Gain access to the most exclusive and coveted antique pieces from trusted dealers during Las Vegas Jewelry Week.

Photos from Day’s Jewelers 2025 Mother’s Day campaign
IndependentsApr 23, 2026
Meet the Real Moms of Day’s Jewelers

The jeweler’s Mother’s Day campaign highlights the women who work there—mothers, grandmothers, women who want to be mothers, and dog moms.

Weekly QuizApr 23, 2026
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
National Jeweler - Supplier Bulletin - April 2026 - JMSS Graphic.jpg
Supplier BulletinApr 23, 2026
JM® Shipping Solution: Smarter Shipping for High-Value Goods

Sponsored by Jewelers Mutual

Woman wearing Charles & Colvard lab grown diamond jewelry
Lab-GrownApr 23, 2026
Charles & Colvard May Sell Assets for $1.5M

The proposed agreement follows the moissanite maker’s Chapter 11 bankruptcy protection filing last month.

lvajws image 1.jpg
Brought to you by
Las Vegas Antique Jewelry & Watch Show: Showcasing the Most Collectible Merchandise from Across the Globe

Gain access to the most exclusive and coveted antique pieces from trusted dealers during Las Vegas Jewelry Week.

John Jacob Astor IV’s Titanic pocket watch and a gold pencil case
AuctionsApr 23, 2026
John Jacob Astor IV’s Titanic Pocket Watch Fetches $1M

The Patek Philippe for Tiffany & Co. timepiece Astor brought aboard the ill-fated ship sold for double its estimate at a Freeman’s auction.

Adam Neeley Dali Garden Collection Eyris Ring
CollectionsApr 23, 2026
Adam Neeley’s High Jewelry Collection Steps Into Salvador Dalí’s Garden

The “Dalí’s Garden” collection was inspired by a surreal dream Neeley had after cooking a recipe from Salvador Dalí’s 1973 cookbook.

Natalie Feanny
IndependentsApr 23, 2026
Windsor Jewelers Names New Buying Director

Natalie Feanny has been appointed to the role.

Stock image of a gavel and books
CrimeApr 22, 2026
New Mexico Couple Pleads Guilty to Selling Fake Native American Jewelry

The pair falsely claimed their jewelry was made by Navajo artists, but it was imported from Vietnam.

Roberta Flack: Style, Art, & Music Auction Bulgari Collar
AuctionsApr 22, 2026
Roberta Flack’s Jewelry Is Going Up for Auction

Julien’s Auctions is selling the musician’s fine and fashion jewelry alongside her clothing, gold records, and other memorabilia.

Rachel King and The Tudor Heart book cover
CollectionsApr 22, 2026
British Museum Curator Pens Book on ‘The Tudor Heart’

Rachel King’s book dives into the history of the pendant believed to have belonged to Henry VIII and his first wife, Katherine of Aragon.

Henry Kessler, Vance Kessler, Alex Kessler, and Daniel Kessler of Sy Kessler Sales Inc.
Events & AwardsApr 22, 2026
Here’s What Sy Kessler Has on Tap for Las Vegas

The company will have deals on precious metals testers as well as the latest in lab-grown diamond detection technology and security.

Chanel Coco Game Haute Horlogerie Chessboard
WatchesApr 21, 2026
Coco Chanel Enters the Game with New Watch Collection

Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel is a character in the “Coco Game” collection of watches and the queen in its first haute horlogerie chessboard.

Jewelers of America 20 Under 40 winners collage
IndependentsApr 21, 2026
Meet Jewelers of America’s 2026 ‘20 Under 40’ Class

The annual list honors rising professionals on the retail and supply sides of the jewelry industry.

Fake Fendi bangle
CrimeApr 21, 2026
Customs Nabs 1,500 Pieces of Counterfeit Jewelry Bound for NYC

Seized in Kentucky, the packages include fake Cartier, Tiffany & Co., Chanel, and Fendi jewelry.

Stock image of a judge’s gavel
CrimeApr 20, 2026
Queens Man Convicted in Bludgeoning Death of Pawn Shop Owner

Rodolfo Lopez-Portillo faces 25 years to life in prison after being found guilty in the March 2022 beating death of Arasb Shoughi.

Jewelry Creators: Dynamic Duos and Generational Gems Book Cover
TrendsApr 20, 2026
Beth Bernstein, Sonia Esther Soltani Pen New Jewelry Book

“Jewelry Creators: Dynamic Duos and Generational Gems” highlights the relationships among 22 influential designers, brands, and gem dealers.

Savannah Convention Center
Events & AwardsApr 20, 2026
Atlanta Jewelry Show’s Spring Event Is Hitting the Road

The AJS Spring 2027 show will be held in Savannah, Georgia, with future shows taking place in other Southeast cities.

Mike McMullen and Adrienne Gernand
MajorsApr 20, 2026
Kendra Scott Names New CFO, Chief Business Officer

The jewelry retailer plans to open 20 new stores this year and expand into new product categories.

Oscar Heyman Multi-Colored Tourmaline and Diamond Flower Necklace
TrendsApr 17, 2026
New (Groundbreaking) Floral Jewelry for Spring 2026

Flower motifs are the jewelry trend blooming amongst the new collections that debuted this spring.

QVC Group logo
MajorsApr 17, 2026
QVC Group Files for Chapter 11 Bankruptcy

The retailer reported an 8 percent decline in annual sales as it struggles under the weight of billions of dollars of debt.

Edina Kiss Devil Drop Earrings
CollectionsApr 17, 2026
Edina Kiss’ Earrings Are the Devil on Your Shoulder

The “Devil” drop earrings, our Piece of the Week, are part of designer Edina Kiss’ new namesake jewelry line that she will show at Couture.

Stock image of gold bars
CrimeApr 17, 2026
FBI Issues Warning to Refineries, Retailers Due to High Price of Gold

The alert states that burglary crews are targeting jewelry businesses and details how jewelers and refineries can protect themselves.

Cartier Roadster
WatchesApr 16, 2026
Cartier Brings Back the Roadster

The “watchmaker of shapes” debuted the reworked version of the vintage sports car-inspired timepiece at Watches & Wonders.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy